I'm installing a hyd clutch in my Mustang II with a MalWood pedal and a Tilton throwout bearing

I'm using a ‪@MalwoodUSA‬ under-dash hydraulic clutch pedal kit and a ‪@TiltonEngineering‬ 6000 series hydraulic release bearing to actuate the clutch in my 1978 Mustang II. This is a very oddball combination, with an early 5-bolt 289 being mated to a brand new Tremec TKX transmission and installing them in a Mustang II. Due to a variety of challenges, the hydraulic setup was the best solution for me, and I'm really happy with the quality of the components and the ease of installation.

[@LoBelly]

Excellent video Bill. Learnt some things and is great to see the progress you're making on your new engine / trans combo. Great that you found that mix of parts to slot into the Mustang II 👍

[@billsgarage]

Thank you so much!

[@brianhdueck3372]

Thanks for this video. I have a 68 Mustang coupe, 347 4 spd top loader with stage 2 clutch. I have been kicking the idea of an od trany of sorts and switching to hydraulic clutch. This sheds some good light on the subject. Thanks you Bill.

[@billsgarage]

Glad to help! Thanks for watching.

[@yolocah]

you do a great job explaining and showing the critical points. Thank you.

[@billsgarage]

Thank you so much!

[@yolocah]

I've watched most of your videos and I don't remember hearing what the head chamber size is. What is your static compression and dynamic compression. is your quench in the 30's? What do you think your hp and torque are? I have a 66 fastback ,junk now, hoping to start this late summer and trying to figure out where I'm going with the engine.

[@billsgarage]

I went with the large chamber (72cc) Renegade 185 CNC heads, but had a bit shaved off to lower the volume slightly. My quench is 0.040 (0.025 gasket, 0.015 deck), and given my combination of bore, stroke, and piston volume, it mathematically comes out to 10.2:1. With my cam specs, dynamic CR is 8.47:1. I could have gone with the small chamber (52cc) heads, which would have upped the CR significantly and given me more HP and torque, but this is my toy, not my race car, and I want to be able to run reliably on pump gas. I don't know what the HP and torque are, but I'd be happy in the 375-400HP range, and I feel that can be realistically achieved with this combination. Good luck on your '66 project, and thanks for watching!

[@rustybritches6747]

I have a 78 cobra that i put a 302 and a t5 in and i had to have the hooker headers anyway finally getting everything in i realized the next problem and that is the clutch fork is too long and hits the header so i cut about an inch off the end of the clutch fork and welded on a plate so i could drill a new hole for the cable. That worked, now the problem is i just cant get the perfect pedal feel and engagement height. Im still using the v6 cable which i believe is the same as the v8, i could be wrong. Either way these cars are a pain in the ass to mod, of they got more love there would be more aftermarket support and information on how to do different swaps so thank you for posting what information you have gathered so far, i really don't want to have to go with a hydraulic clutch, i would if the pedal and master cylinder were integrated and a direct bolt in and not overly expensive but hopefully i can just figure out a different cable setup.

[@billsgarage]

I definitely feel your pain, my first Mustang II was a 1977 4-cylinder car that I converted to V-8 back in the 1990s and there were simply no parts available to do what I wanted to do. I had to make or modify everything myself. And it's not much better now - thare are some things available, but they are all expensive and in limited supply. One thing's for certain though, you can definitely say that you built your car, you didn't just assemble it from a catalog of parts! Best of luck on your project, and thanks for watching - many more Mustang II videos on the way!