Like the pro safe rear fill tank with the pull down license plate idea.
@billsgarageКүн бұрын
Someone also suggested a Cougar fuel tank with a similar arrangement, but I'm definitely leaning towards a fuel cell.
@SPAZALOT3 күн бұрын
the 78 Mustang ll I am building my son I cut out the rear spare tire well and surrounding floor, fabricated a square frame with 2"x2" square mild steel tube to fit between the rear frame rails, welded that in and bought a 1967/68 Mercury Cougar gas tank to fit in that opening, also used a 2 1/2" hole saw to cut out for the fill tube to go behind a 67/68 cougar pull down license plate holder and fill neck tube, hole in driver rear quarter is deleted, cougar tank is 16 gallons, mustang ll tank is 13 gallons
@SPAZALOT3 күн бұрын
you can even upgrade to a 69/70 cougar gas tank with 22 gallons
@SPAZALOT3 күн бұрын
Chassis connectors
@billsgarage3 күн бұрын
Interesting - this would give me 16 gallons without having to use the aux tank in the wheel well, and I like the idea of the pull-down license plate holder. Thanks for letting me know what worked for you!
@billsgarage3 күн бұрын
Even better!
@billsgarage3 күн бұрын
Working on it - got a set from Stumpy's Fabworks.
@larrywarner93146 күн бұрын
I'll tell you like i did another guy they make spacers for those oil pumps on ford 289 and 302 , when you need to use them!!!
@billsgarage5 күн бұрын
Yes, I've seen them, but I've never seen a longer oil pump driveshaft offered. When you space the pump out from the block, you lose the corresponding amount of driveshaft engagement with the pump, weakening the system. You also need to change the geometry of your oil pump pickup, which is a lot of work when compared to a little bit of time with a grinder.
@larrywarner93146 күн бұрын
You can purchase aftermarket main caps also , im not a for guy , but if I'm going to build a 347 stroker or bigger cubic inch engines im going to buy and aftermarket bolck , Dart, Blueprint, Speedmaster something that has billet four bolt splayed caps in the center three caps ,
@billsgarage5 күн бұрын
I can't see paying $4,500 for a block when I'm running horsepower numbers that are well within the capability of the stock block to handle. I'm not building a race car, I'm building a fun toy, no need to complicate things with unnecessarily expensive and one-off race car parts.
@joelubner387911 күн бұрын
Great Explanation Thanks!
@billsgarage5 күн бұрын
Glad to help, thanks for watching!
@GaryH-pw9cm13 күн бұрын
Harrop makes a supercharger kit for the 302 -351that will increase the power to over 700 HP. Not cheap though. 😙
@billsgarage5 күн бұрын
That's a lot of HP to try and put through a stock block!
@GaryH-pw9cm4 күн бұрын
@@billsgarage True. I think the supercharger kit is for aftermarket blocks. These kits are 7K and up to about 12K each. I have been looking at this kit for my 427 W. But there are some fitment issues when installed in a T bucket. There just is not much space as these are front entrance belt driven superchargers. May have to design a special air inlet that does not look too odd. Plus I need to find a place for the supercharger liquid cooling radiator. Have not figured that out so far.
@ChrisStura19 күн бұрын
I own a 74 mustang 2 September 73 build date love it better looking than anything made today
@billsgarage17 күн бұрын
Awesome - I love the longer nose on the '74s. It's only about 3" longer than the '75 - '78s but makes a big difference.
@daren972119 күн бұрын
Thank you for this video!!!!!
@billsgarage17 күн бұрын
You're welcome, thanks for watching!
@mortimersnerd999124 күн бұрын
I agree that an HV oil pump in a 302 isn't usually a good idea. I had one that would run fine at idle, but driving it around, it would empty the pan. I also have a II, with its small oil pan made for a bad combination. I'm using trickflow heads. I ended up welding my own 7Q pan and replaced the oil pump with a standard one because of this.
@billsgarage17 күн бұрын
In my '77. I switched from stock to a Milidon 8qt pan (which fits pretty well after a few strategic hammer blows) after my high-volume pump drained the pan, and it worked out pretty well with the increased capacity but I never stopped worrying about it! Thanks for watching!
@arthurcaesar220026 күн бұрын
Good stuff. I am getting ready to refresh a 289 for 64 Fairlane. May I ask what the part number is for the piston you used and what compression you were aiming to get?
@billsgarage25 күн бұрын
I'm not sure of the part# for the pistons because they came as part of my Eagle B14003030 rotating assembly kit. I was aiming for somewhere around 9.5:1 and10:1. Coincidentally, this 289 originally came out of a '64 Fairlane, good luck with yours and thanks for watching!
@mjschaeffer2112Ай бұрын
Great explanation on your process on checking pushrod length. Very helpful.
@billsgarageАй бұрын
Thank you so much!
@markroberts13012 ай бұрын
Do you have flow/dyno or 1/4 mile performance data to compare the performance of the heads? Im working on a set of iron 351 heads now for a daily driver build I'll be happy to get 1 hp per cubic inch since everything will be mild
@billsgarageАй бұрын
No, the 289 and 351W heads were done many years ago when I was active duty military, and I didn't have access to a flow bench or dyno. I did plenty of street racing with friends, and the car seemed faster with each evolution, but we were just in it for the fun, not the data. Thanks for watching!
@markroberts1301Ай бұрын
@@billsgarage cool, wasn't sure if you had been to the strip with it. 1/4 mile times Tell a lot Thanks for your service, I am retired Navy myself
@swingdow2 ай бұрын
Did the belt come with the kit or separately?
@billsgarage2 ай бұрын
The belt came with the kit, and it's a high quality Gates 8-rib belt. Thanks for watching!
@MichaelCoger2 ай бұрын
I built my 334 from my 289 . Didn't even need to clearance the bores for the rods. I used a kit from CNC Motorsports.
@billsgarage2 ай бұрын
Wow, I didn't know you could go that big without clearancing for the rods. Awesome! Thanks for watching.
@harmankardon4783 ай бұрын
nice!
@billsgarage2 ай бұрын
Thanks!
@PeterBrown-r9m3 ай бұрын
I'm pretty sure your real name is charlie..and having the three ladies perform"Very hazardous duties"is whats really going on..(positive comment number 3)
@billsgarage2 ай бұрын
Good morning Angels...😂🤣
@kennethbrown57843 ай бұрын
People that say a girdle are useless never put a piece of IKEA furniture together much less an engine
@billsgarage3 ай бұрын
🤣😂
@robertoudokrapf4533 ай бұрын
OLÁ Bils 15/08/24 Para motores normais é possível um concerto mais preciso e sem mexer nos rebaixes para válvulas no TOP do pistão. Vai requerer uma retificadora com conhecimentos melhores de geometria. Nada sugiro por que se for mal executado o normal seria me culpar. Roberto Udo Krapf
@billsgarage3 ай бұрын
Thanks for watching!
@leontube0073 ай бұрын
What kind of engine cradle is that? looks like its on backwards?
@billsgarage3 ай бұрын
It's from Stumpy's Fabworks - same guy who built my subframe connectors and traction bars. It's installed in the correct orientation. Thanks for watching!
@PeggyParrow3 ай бұрын
Old ED Smith says, whatever you do with the sbf. Torque the mains on before you bore and hone it, this fellow below, has the right idea, i think, by enlargeing the bolts to 1 half inch bolt holes, and use studs . The reason for all this is, the sbf block is not very ridged and has been found to move around a lot, also use a torque plate when honing. Hope this helps.
@billsgarage3 ай бұрын
Sound advice, thanks for watchng!
@VGHCX3 ай бұрын
Duct Tape and 550 cord is what I have always used to keep my engines bottom end secured. It never fails.
@billsgarage3 ай бұрын
I have plenty of both as a backup!
@thatonegamer60324 ай бұрын
What wiring harness did you use and where can we buy it?
@billsgarage3 ай бұрын
I bought it from Johnny Law Motors: www.johnnylawmotors.com/mi/Avh264fX/1974-1978-mustang-ii-wire-harness-upgrade-kit-fits-painless-complete-terminal
@Oasis-sheepdog-333.4 ай бұрын
What pistons are thouse and is the valve 2.02 reason i ask i need a piston i know that clears with world product 64cc 2.02 valve
@billsgarage3 ай бұрын
They are Mahle pistons. I bought them as part of my Eagle B14003030 347ci rotating assembly.
@videosolutions98284 ай бұрын
druaspark I duraspark II then switched to tfi thin foil ignition.
@billsgarage3 ай бұрын
I used Duraspark for a long time, but MSD is my favorite. Thanks for watching!
@videosolutions98284 ай бұрын
Heat issues the V8 would make the battery explode . They had V8 south of the boarder do to not having emission, the catalytic converters were to blame
@billsgarage3 ай бұрын
I've never heard of that being a problem, but my battery is in the trunk, so that wouldn't be an issue for me.
@jeremyjenks4 ай бұрын
Im working on my very first build with zero background in mechanics so this was very helpful for my journey. thanks!
@billsgarage4 ай бұрын
I'm glad to hear you found it helpful! I checked out your page, looks like you're off to a great start on your project.
@jeremyjenks4 ай бұрын
I need a neighbor like you bro
@billsgarage4 ай бұрын
Same!
@jeremyjenks4 ай бұрын
rad
@billsgarage4 ай бұрын
Thanks!
@jeremyjenks4 ай бұрын
dude where are you located? I have a snake pit im working on too! I don't know why but I'm tinkering with it.
@billsgarage4 ай бұрын
On the East coast of Florida near Cocoa/Melbourne.
@jeremyjenks4 ай бұрын
proper demonstration
@billsgarage4 ай бұрын
Thanks for watching!
@Anthony-qj7qe4 ай бұрын
I tried installing a PowerMaster starter on my 74 Corvette with a small block Chevy and could never get it to work right. I'm using a points setup so I had to get a wire with a diode (not supplied) The problem is, that sometimes it would work and some times it wouldn't. I also had to do some modifications, shims, diode wire etc.. that I never had to do with my OEM starter. I hated the PM starter, so as a result I got a new OEM starter and have never had a problem since. For the price they are charging for these things, you shouldn't have to modify anything.... NEVER AGAIN!!
@billsgarage4 ай бұрын
Yeah, that sounds like a real hassle, I probably wouldn't want to deal with those types of problem either! Fortunately it was a straight-forward install for this application and it works great. I guess time will tell how reliable it turns out to be. Thanks for watching!
@willwagner72224 ай бұрын
nice explanation. well done
@billsgarage4 ай бұрын
Thank you very much!!
@michaelmorris1624 ай бұрын
Im a technician so ima chime in if you dont mind. Normally that would weaken the caps but aslong as all 5 caps are milled perfectly the same wich can be done and the girdle and caps seat perfectly flat on 1 another id think it would work provided you use arp hardware. And i do have 1 thought. I wonder if the girdle is modified to come down to the block so i5 can bolt to the block aswell i wonder if that would eliminate flexing even further.. i could be wrong because things do have to be able to flex slightly to accommodate the harmonics and heat cycles it endures...
@billsgarage4 ай бұрын
Thanks for your comments. I'd love to see someone design a girdle that comes down to meet the oil pan rail. If it were say a 1/4" thick full perimeter spacer on the pan rail then installation wouldn't be affected, although you'd probably need to extend the oil pump pickup too. I'll bet that would stiffen up the bottom end a lot. Too much? Maybe, but I'd be curious to try it out. Thanks for watching!
@bryanspanglerracing45744 ай бұрын
Where did you get the bolts with safety wire holes for the lifter spider?
@billsgarage4 ай бұрын
I get most of my specialty fasteners (including those) from McMaster-Carr. Thanks for watching!
@douglasknutsen4 ай бұрын
Bill , What are doing about the early 2 piece rear main seal issue using the Eagle crank that was designed for the one piece rear main seal ? Eagle says it's going to leak !
@billsgarage4 ай бұрын
Great question! The rotating assembly kit that I used is an Eagle B14003030, and the forged crank in this kit is designed to work with either a 1- or 2-piece rear main seal. I didn't want to have the machine work done to switch this engine over to a 1-piece seal, so I installed a quality 2-piece seal and it doesn't leak. I'm considering the 1-piece seal upgrade for another stroker that I'm working on, but I'm probably going to leave this one as is. Thanks for watching!
@saulmolina67385 ай бұрын
289 engine is actually 2.87 in stroke!
@billsgarage5 ай бұрын
Yup, I've been beat up a lot in the comments about that mistake! Thanks for watching.
@1krista19695 ай бұрын
The problem i have with most girdles is their design, how they attach to the main caps. Most of them just sandwich between the main cap fastener and cap. The issue with that is when the cap is stressed ro the point it starts lifting or moving in the register, it moves the girdle with it since the girdle is no longer held in place. The solution would be to use a nut under the main cap, then install the girdle over top of the torqued stud followed by another nut on top of that. With this scheme the main cap still has a tight grip on the girdle even if the cap starts lifting IOW, the girdle can be far more effective holding onto the cap under load, supplementing the cap rigidity and adding strength. The problem this poses is insufficient clearance to the oil pan under most conditions. You'd need a deeper oil pan in that case. I also agree a well designed girdle will only add rigidity in the horizontal plane. Only a stronger cap design with better clamping to the block will avoid most of any cap walk anyone would encounter at power levels causing significant cylinder bore distortion. Stock roller block 302s are ticking time bombs at power levels exceeding 400 fwhp, especially when high rpms are needed to produce those numbers and especially so with a marginal tune. The 50 oz imbalance is the other weekness, mainly becuase the stock cast crank floos around like a wet noodle at higher rpms. The stress of that happening puts alot of load on the stock 2 bolt caps registers with or without a girdle. A bare factory roller block only weighs about 120 lbs with caps. They are likely one of the weakest V8 platforms I've dealt with. That is why I prefer 351w based builds when a stock block is called for. These also dont have any bolts going into coolant like most newer 302s have.
@billsgarage5 ай бұрын
Interesting that you suggest torquing the main cap stud nuts and then placing the girdle on top of those and retaining the girdle with a 2nd nut - I am experimenting with that exact setup on another 289 block, and it looks like it's going to clear my Milidon deep sump pan with plenty of room to spare. If I go with that at some point, I'll make another video. Thanks for watching!
@johnnyhonda75765 ай бұрын
Is this a hyd roller or tappet engine? What did you do to keep them pumped up? Just soak them?
@billsgarage5 ай бұрын
It's a hydraulic roller cam, but there's no need to worry about keeping the lifters pumped up if you install checking springs on the valves. The springs inside the lifters are stronger than the checking springs installed on the valves, to the lifters will not collapse when opening the valves.
@johnnyhonda75765 ай бұрын
@@billsgarage if you have a hydraulic roller pumped up, will it stay pumped up thru 2 revolutions of a engine if not using checking springs, for final valve adjustment?
@DanielBuchanan-oh2eq4 ай бұрын
@@johnnyhonda7576i second this question as im literally about to check pushrods tomorrow and don’t have the checking springs lol
@iancoachwerksllc5 ай бұрын
Trick flow recomends machining the caps in their instructions for their race girdle. My machine shop said to get a girdle. He is a ford guy so he was happy to do the work.
@billsgarage5 ай бұрын
You won't regret it. Thanks for watching!
@WDMtea5 ай бұрын
You're correct, it's not the two bolt mains that are the problem, its engine harmonics is why ppl have engine failures with these early blocks. 500HPish at the flywheel all day long.
@billsgarage5 ай бұрын
Thanks for your comments!
@allanpepper96515 ай бұрын
The second distributor is not electronic, it’s a passive inductor and it is Hall effect. ( no active electronics involved) it is used to interface with an amplifier device ( MSD 6 AL or similar) ….. and on that note, be warned that MSD now has their consumer distributors made in China. Their failure rate is high.
@billsgarage5 ай бұрын
MSD Distributors like this one are not Hall Effect, they are Variable Reluctance, as evidenced by the fact that there are only 2 wires on the sensor, as opposed to the 3 wires necessary for a Hall Effect sensor to operate. All Variable Reluctance sensors have 2 wires, and all Hall Effect sensors have 3 wires. Some of the newer MSD models do use a Hall Effect sensor, but not the one that I described. This type of distributor is an electronic one because it can't be operated without transistorized microcircuitry. You don't have to use an MSD box, you could use a Ford Duraspark, GM HEI module, or something similar in order to trigger the coil, but you can't trigger a coil directly with a Variable Reluctance sensor.
@hwy2hvn615 ай бұрын
Thanks man I had one wrong after a double check after watching this. 👍
@billsgarage5 ай бұрын
Glad it helped, thanks for watching!
@bryanmoyer66025 ай бұрын
your pump gas can be as high 105 octane. e85 or propane are 105. when e100 is 129! octane.
@billsgarage5 ай бұрын
I remember seeing 105 at the pump one time when I was in the suburbs north of Detroit. I'm in Florida, and the highest we see at the pump in my area is 97. Thanks for watching!
@Burnedtoastify5 ай бұрын
Great advice in this video... We built up a '96 Explorer motor (5.0 HO/GT40) and installed a TFS1 cam, spring kit and new head gaskets. Lots of tapping on start up. Turned out we needed to go from the stock 6.250 pushrods up to 6.300.
@billsgarage5 ай бұрын
That's a noise that will definitely get your attention! Thanks for watching.
@josephspratling35115 ай бұрын
That car will be valuable one day it’s just not right now
@billsgarage5 ай бұрын
Possibly, but I don't think it will ever be worth what I've invested in mine. But I'm happy with it!
@24theMoney5 ай бұрын
For high rpm (6000+) - high hp (400+) sustained use on a 302, a main girdle will help not hurt.
@billsgarage5 ай бұрын
I don't know of anyone who ever regretted installing one.
@SPAZALOT6 ай бұрын
I had a 76 Mustang ii Ghia v-6 auto, I never noticed the quarter window difference, thank you for teaching me something, tossed a rod one night coming home from work and junked it.
@SPAZALOT6 ай бұрын
steel post aka B pillar lol
@billsgarage6 ай бұрын
😂🤣 Yes, thank you!
@billsgarage6 ай бұрын
The V-6 had a habit of doing that. Thankis for watching!
@bradmaas68756 ай бұрын
@@billsgarage And I never had a problem with the 2.8 V6. Oil and filter and it was ready to go. Last one had over 300K, and the tranny died.
@bradmaas68756 ай бұрын
I hate vinyl tops.
@billsgarage6 ай бұрын
They look awful, and I hate the rust that's under mine!
@tshepomaphosa94966 ай бұрын
Thanks searched and searched this is the only video that makes sense
@billsgarage6 ай бұрын
Awesome, thanks for watching!
@benjaminkilmer6 ай бұрын
I bought a brand new White with Blue Cobra in 1976 right after I got my first full time job. I loved that car and kept it over a decade