I've never been trolled like this before...

I thought I fixed the issue with this mini panel... but it decided to troll me in an amazing way...
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[@OriginalBadRobotz]

Your tutorial on how to install a panel with Aida 64 was so much help, I can't thank you enough

[@longjohn526]

I really pimped mine out by separating RAM and virtual memory, and adding speed for each of the 8 cores and utilization % for each of the 16 threads. I have a solid side case so I 3D printed a nice stand and it sits on the right side of my desk so it's really easy to see as I'm gaming

[@DJAbraxoOfficial]

Funny seeing you here in the comments on here LMAO I was looking to see if anyone spotted what that metal screwdriver is I haven't seen one like that before. I'd like to get a screen setup like this at some point.

[@knghtbrd]

What I suspect is likely really happening is that you had a kind of dodgy solder joint and by stressing the board, you cracked it. That joint now makes intermittent contact but is more or less connected most of the time, except when it isn't. An electronics dork might be able to reflow the board if there's nothing installed after the initial wave soldering that can't handle the heat. But for $40, replace it. (And I'm someone who often doesn't have $40.)

[@nattybyrne]

I reckon you are right!

[@scottcoburn7528]

Being an Electronic Engineering Technologist or electronics dork as you said, I suspect the solder has cracked around one or more of the USB port contacts on the PCB. The power seems intermittent and near the end of the video he pushes down there and the power came on briefly. This spot also has the greatest potential for stress due to pushing the cable in, not having it exactly straight, pulling off axis, etc.

[@meeponinthbit3466]

I've fixed 3 free TVs just by baking their formatter boards in my oven on broil. Sometimes you just need enough to sinter the crack back together.

[@angelicsailor1st]

@@scottcoburn7528 this particular board has very thin/fine solders they break really easily I’ve repaired them before but honestly if you aren’t a solderer it’s just easier to buy another

[@connormccarter9581]

@@meeponinthbit3466 That was a DIY technique to fix some first gen Xbox 360's. I wonder if Jay left it on if it would shut off. That might mean the crack was heat sensitive...

[@RubyRoks]

A perfect example of More Complexity = More points of failure

[@importr8cr]

your a point of failure

[@ron200088]

@@112Famine If that were the case, he wouldn't have gotten an image in the first place. Plus at one point he managed to get an image while booted in Windows. Nick tested it on a laptop with a different cable, it worked the first time and then it didn't. It doesn't only cut the video signal, the power to the board gets cut off. That's definitely an indicative that something doesn't work as intended on the board and that something is broken.

[@TheKotor2309]

More Complexity = More Style Points.

[@hokiturmix]

Beware with people who say complexity is proof of design and such complex eye n stuff NEEDS a designer god. Simplicity is a good design no junk n "stuff".. :D

[@oznine9076]

*cough* *cough* Germany *cough* *cough*

[@brundog807]

After reading the title and seeing what you were working on, I was so hoping that Phil or Nick messed witht he setup so when you finally hooked it up right, you got RickRolled.

[@lordmage]

You mean nickrolled

[@Christian_Johansson]

me 3

[@robertalexander5892]

Me 4. 🤣

[@scottcol23]

I was looking for this comment. I thought the same exact thing.

[@SaccoBelmonte]

I would try with a heatgun to make the solder flow on the components around the power delivery. Seems like your 3D Printed part bent the board enough to crack some solder joints.

[@tannji5971]

Or, separated layers on the board itself, just enough to be trollishly unreliable.😆

[@kittyztigerz]

i have few them n i try heating it up n did no change i put blame on chip it close by usb c port

[@G.J.Uytdewilligen]

Reflowing usually is just a temporary solution though, it will likely fail soon after.

[@AnonyMous-jf4lc]

Don’t use any old heat gun unless you like damaging things and maybe exploding caps. Use a legit controllable hot air source.

[@kittyztigerz]

@Don't read profile photo then why did u read everyone name

[@gruzzob]

The good news is that you now have a perfect template for testing the fit of the replacement. Assuming its a like replacement. Don't need to worry about breaking what is already broken after all.

[@jamesmarchetti3286]

I liked when said it could be a capacitor!! I saw that once with a Pico cap!! And was a real pain to fix troubleshoot and repair! So on a hunch I removed and Replaced 3 of them and Lo and Behold it was repaired!!

[@JonesingUSAF]

I love that you said that’s not good! When a problem “fixes” itself, it sucks!

[@petethewiseman2184]

Shameless Plug @ 1:37 Absolutely love it

[@kaydog2008]

I used my old 17" 2011 Hanns G LCD monitor to display my graph with an animated desktop back ground for the boarder but mounted it on the wall above the case. Still kicking the old stuff for newer uses.👈😅👍

[@RandomTechG]

I did this on my wall mounted dual pc setup after seeing one of J's earlier videos on the little display monitor. It is pretty awesome to have that info on a seperate screen out of the way and readily available.

[@joshb6470]

my logitech G15 keyboard does this and is about to turn 18 years old

[@tyronenelson9124]

@@joshb6470 You can get an LCD status screen that fits in two of the drive bays on the front of the pc they have been out for nearly 20 years now.

[@shakdidagalimal]

The beatdown ! 10:06 " Stop it Jay, you're scaring your employee(zzz) ! "

[@danielsaturnino5715]

Jay, I got a good laugh out of your fixing method of smacking the thing o tje table. That's entertainment right there.

[@lfla0179]

I installed the NZXT cam without having a single NZXT device and... it can read the temps of my cpu and gpu, exactly what I wanted. Uninstrusive, it works, perfect. JayZ recommended, great.

[@stefanbrobo3613]

Pushing a bga chip is something i do at work to check for broken connections, 9 times out of 10 the pressure is enough to let it boot and tell me it needs a reflow/reball. Geat vid jay, thank you kindly :)

[@dreamdemon7446]

Just finished my first wetbench ridged tube sli system. They sent me the wrong tools made it work. Lit the system up everything worked EXCEPT rgb on GeForce waterblock. Spent hours switching pins cause the manufacturer switched 2 compared to the twin. Took sthe stickers off to get to the LEDs and tested wires and one LED is out. Other 3 would work when I flipped the connection but wouldn't when hooked to the blocks RGB and would shut them off. Short somewhere. Gave up stupid issue gonna have to drain the brand new system to replace. Order new one wait for it then send bad one it back. Hate RGB now. Felling your Pain. Thanks you have helped a lot with this passion.

[@deadaccount6135]

It IS the board. What is happening is a ' cold weld ' or ' cold solder ' joint. Basically when solder melts and flows to connect the part to the board, it doesn't make a solid bond to the connection trace OR the solder didn't get hot enough to flow properly. The layer of solder develops a microscopic crack and even though it LOOKS and FEELS solidly connected it actually can move and expand as it warms with current flow. It breaks the connection across the gap. Let it cool for a while or wiggle the board and it can make contact again just like a short in an electrical cord. That's why it can go off-on-off-on like we saw.

[@SirStik]

Just a small note on the mounting of the RPi, solid mount some small standoffs or put on a nut to the screws to secure them in place, then secure the bracket to those. It's not worth having threaded holes on the print if you're already using nuts to secure it.

[@liftbikerun]

I had one of these set up in a computing I built over 20 years ago, used RAIN to display all the stats. A little 4" LCD, the thing was like 2" think lol and 480p res. Man this brings back memories. It's too bad digital cameras werent a big thick back then, nor camera phones. I would love to have pics of all the mods I did back then.

[@ravedagger]

I replied to one of jays tweets asking what content people liked to watch on the channel and THIS IS IT the part in the middle of vid where jay says that he likes to make things as complicated as possible had me laughing cause I knew he was going to spend the next chunk of the vid doing a million things just to take the screen out very happy with this

[@cajunlightning]

Loved how you just started cleaning it up at the end ...

[@CaianBenedicto]

The problem with my intermittent screen was actually the crappy HDMI cable they sent with it. The manual tells to boost Raspberry Pi's HDMI signal very high, so I guess the HDMI controller is not great. Also, the screen handles upscaling automatically which, again, can be a problem on a bad cable / weak controller. Maybe try a different cable + lower resolution + lower refresh rate?

[@PRiMETECHAU]

Honestly looks like a dry solder connection somewhere. I've seen this so many times, often you just need to get a good magnifying glass or scope and look over real close to the joints, if one is not shiny and a bit matt in texture then it could be dry, sometimes the pins can be raised off the pad on the pin arrays also.

[@DarknessSwordmaster]

exactly the same thought- I believe this SOC isn't soldered like how it should be. Just look at the light turning green when Jay had his finger on it and squeezed it with board- it's clearly some pin not making contact. 5 minutes with soldering iron or even heat gun should fix it

[@earlygrayce3200]

Don't tell him that. He might try butchering this computers electronics more. We all know how Jay trying to fix the power distro board went.

[@DarknessSwordmaster]

@@earlygrayce3200 This gon b gud :D

[@garbuckle3000]

I feel your pain. It was because of your previous video that I went and bought an awesome 8" super widescreen Pi display for my PC. There seems to be a lot of quality issues in these displays; mine came with the ribbon cable installed incorrectly on the display side, and not connected to the board; took me several attempts of connecting the cable before a) breaking off the connector and b) realizing the other end was wrong. I literally had to throw the thing away. In the end, I bought a 10" hdmi tv/monitor that just sits beside my PC. I hope you find a display/solution that works for you

[@jaxxarmstrong]

A Jurassic way to deal with hardware errors and personal frustration @ 10:07. "65 million years later..."

[@BorrietheBlade]

I actually thought Nick loaded up something on the little screen LMAO. That sucks it stopped working though. I really like this addition to a PC. I have considered it since your first video just haven't got around to doing it. Thanks for the video again team

[@Sgt_SealCluber]

Back in the IDE days Western Digital HDDs absolutely hated me, I could never get one to work. Now Maxtor HDDs worked every time! (Assuming it wasn't DOA because that was fairly common with Maxtor)

[@earthtaurus5515]

Never had a problem with Maxtor, Htachi or Toshiba HDDs...whereas Western Digital....or Seagate.... Had to buy a HDD fan to cool down a Seagate pata hdd as it would constantly overheat lol.

[@akirafan28]

@@earthtaurus5515 :O

[@TheCriticizer811]

Thank you for showing everyone that stupid things like this happens

[@Gavrev]

It was a result man! No worries. It's always a joy to follow the construction of these home brewed contraptions you throw together..

[@motortiki]

I appreciate the videos where things don't work as planned, they are highly informative.

[@overlord5066]

I guess thats a lesson many of us 3DPrinter users learn along the way. Accurate measuring and dimensionally accurate printing is a must. Usually comes down to the printer needing some calibration of E-Steps all round which many people skip (or just don't know about) to produce parts that are super close to the modeled part. Then you "design in" features to allow for that bit of dimensional accuracy lead way.

[@neddy1287]

Raspberry pi needs at least 1 amp or higher for it to work ideally 1.5 amp work correctly as USB port gives out 500 milli amps not enough to work. To fix that you would need 5v buck converter with adjustable amp potimeter with a digital multi meter to get 1.5 amp while powered by usb. The real reason it cutting out is to do with the screen asking the raspberry pi to give it more current but there's not enough so the raspberry pi shuts down due to not enough amps available that why the 5v buck converter is needed so you can increase the amount of amps available so it can work with the screen without shutting down

[@--_DJ_--]

He said it did the same thing with the supplied brick.

[@neddy1287]

@@--_DJ_-- The one shown in the video is not a raspberry power supply it looks like a generic USB charger

[@PandaMan02]

@@--_DJ_-- that brick is for powering the raspberry pi, if it is only rated for the 1 amp, the screen is overloading the supply causing it to shut off.

[@fred_derf]

@@PandaMan02 There is no Raspberry Pi in Jay's setup. he's hooking the screen to the system's video card.

[@neddy1287]

@@fred_derf Jay is using a raspberry pi in his system to make it a secondary screen for information display

[@davidrichards2647]

Welcome to my life as a debug tech. I can't tell you how many times I found board failures just by poking around the board with my finger

[@-Brunnen-G]

Try hitting it with a can of Freon when it's on after it shuts down. There may be a cold solder joint or a small crack in the board. If so, the crack or joint should shrink up enough to make contact and will work until it heats up again.

[@berndkemmereit8252]

I love figuring out stuff, the best way to learn......great video..

[@nomisukeindustries]

I've been using Remote System Monitor from Trigone because it allows me to use an old phone without buying a special panel. The app is installed on my phone and the server program to the PC. The settings can be tweaked to display practically any sensor in the system in a variety of different graphs or meters. The only problem is I still need to charge the battery in the phone or keep it connected to 5V power.

[@zackspicer3481]

30hz screen: *I'm invincible!!!"* 30hz screen receiving infinite fps: *passes out*

[@engakiem5228]

I had the same issue with my setup, that had in 2 1080ti in SLI. What I had to do was use CRJ 4-Pin Molex to 5V Female USB Sleeved Adapter Cable which connects to the power supple fix my issue.

[@ruokeren1919]

I agree.. Some things require just a tad more juice despite 5v when only a molex will do..

[@GamingWithURO]

My wife in the other room @12:59 "What are you watching? " hahaha

[@christophermcgill39]

I thought you had to change the settings in the bios or windows for the usb to always output power, if not it will not output 5v and drop to 0.9-2.5v. Had a issue like this along time ago. Look into your output settings.

[@obiwanceleri]

Wow that's a hell of a lot of cooling for a Raspberry Pi !!!

[@bigwilliestile2007]

Jay you I have reflowed mine properly and it works and has been working non stop but my only issue is i never used it so got rid of it and the person I sold it too was a friend and it still works

[@brianm.595]

I have a wrench (essentially) that has screwdriver bits for those tight jobs like you had to do by hand. Can't recommend one highly enough for those tight 90 degree jobs like that where you can't actually get a normal screwdriver in.

[@joshuasisson6816]

Got one of those myself. Gearwrench 85035 micro kit.

[@rcarter1690]

I use the Wera Zyklop mini.

[@Darwinion]

I had that problem with one of those little monitors. It turned out it was a bit choosy as to where the 5V supply was coming from. You needed to relocate that monitor anyway as the cables to it were sticking out and when you come to put the case covers on they didn't look like they would fit.

[@chrisindeherberge5645]

I use a 5'' lcd from waveshare. Bought it on Amazon. Also for raspberry pi and pc. They work very well. Just make sure you order the right revision. The ones with the connectors on top only work on raspberry pi. With the connectors on the side work on pc.

[@MarkBarrett]

The simple answer is to replace it. Even if you could find out why it does it, highly likely you'd still have to replace it anyway.

[@marcusbridge8078]

try to bake it at a temp to melt the soldering connections. You said it has been sitting for a while. Cold or corroded solder joints can lead to intermittent issues. Worth a try.

[@TurboTechieSystemsIrving]

A while back I had a small LCD like that. Would work for a few mins and then the motherboard USB hub would go into overload and the USB would shut down. Worked fine on its own USB charging brick but not from the motherboard.

[@MrOne2watch]

Phil has the remote in his pocket ! LOL

[@satchell78]

Dang, was really hopping to see this working. Sorry Jay

[@CouchMan88]

3:55 “Post takes forever on 12th gen if it’s lost power.” Ahh that just made it clear why after I changed the gpu on my pc with a 12400 it seemed to take forever to start after that and I had a black screen for a good minute or two. I thought it had something to do with the gpu driver. Next time I won’t start sweating.

[@radbanshee4508]

On my dual build 3 monitor setup both my mini monitors run off HDMI connection only although they both have a mini-USB power input. One of them has been working for 5 years now no flaws yet. I keep one on each side of my main 43" 4K 144Hz monitor under the smaller 32" 4K monitors. I purchased them from the mod shop at PPC's

[@ofdime]

I just used a $30 Samsung 7 inch tablet for mine with an app and a 5pin to micro USB cable and it works great and is a lot simpler , been doing it for about 2 years in every build I do and it looks good and never has any issues

[@AoABlodhgarm]

I like how Jay just unplugs the power supply....then flips the switch to fully turn off the power (no power cord connected)....hehe

[@Draven2k]

PC spectre case looks amazing and build looks gorgeous.

[@arnavparashar7]

I asked on twitter for a troubleshooting video and here we go! Love you jay

[@Renirode]

Just try the "VoCore2 Screen" - it just uses a USB Port and doesn´t need a hdmi port. The screen will be detected as a second screen in windows. Many SimRacers are using them (me included) as a second screen behind the wheel or on top of the wheel base

[@derekblakemore3279]

Can confirm. I've got another pc in my bedroom that I don't have a sensor panel on and it bothers the crap out of me. I couldn't deal with the screen in the pc though so I ended up putting right below my main monitor so I could look down at it like I do with guages on a car dash lol.

[@--_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_]

5:55 He doesn't wanna rip the threads because this ain't a threadripper system

[@chuckthetekkie]

You should try my mom's fool proof method for getting her computer to work. She once worked in a 5/6 story small office building right next to Sunrise Highway in Valley Stream NY. Any time her computer would misbehave she would tell it that it's going in front of the next Semi that passes by. As if the computer actually heard and understood her it would suddenly start working properly. Until the next time it misbehaves and she threatens it and the cycle continues. I've been building and fixing computers since I was 10 in 1997. I've had my fair share of Troll-y hardware and software. My personal favorite was a misbehaving optical mouse were the problem was the "FREE" mousepad they were using as it was glossy. Although the motherboard that released the magic smoke that wasn't actually plugged in when I turned on the computer 18 inches away is a very close contender.

[@ecksray48]

These Pi screens are definitely built cheap. I used your tutorial to set up a 7-in LCD on my system. It would do the same thing yours did, periodically turning off. I finally figured out it was a bad component for the USB power input. Not the soldering to the board but the physical component itself. Probably could have bought a new component and soldered it on, but a new screen was cheaper than a soldering kit and the component

[@techguyone11]

I had nothing but bother with those open to the air, uncovered backs to the screens, too much chance of something bad happening to one of the many things exposed. I avoided all this heartache by having a sensor panel already boxed in, used magnetic tape to mount it to the PSU Shroud, and used Rainmeter/AfterBurner because life is too short for that AIDA 64 nonsense. My biggest issue was finding a right size PCIE Bracket with holes in to thread out the HDMI lead from inside (USB Power I used a MB header) Works great even through a limo tint Corsair 4000D Airflow case. Oh and 90 degree connectors wherever possible for that clean look.

[@reece2080]

Great video! I like it when you guys trouble shoot things like this, even if you don't fix it it is still entertaining content.

[@migabri]

Thanks for sharing

[@taleg1]

I've found that if there is even a slight chance that there is something wrong with a electronics product, I will get one that's broken each time. The shear number of bad products I've seen over the years are staggering, I've even stumbled over unknown faults and gotten kickbacks from companies to keep my mouth shut so they can fix the issue. I don't know why, as I buy my gear from all over. So I've learned to check everything for months after they are released before buying, so that others get the joy of finding the bugs, that alone reduced the number of faults I encountered and that helped my stress levels a lot. The point here is not that I'm bug prone, but rather that most electronics are not well made. And the companies just don't care that say a thousand faulty products gets out, they take the hit and keep producing shoddy products, just barely working. Thankfully in some regards products from several companies has become better, but the issue still remain if you go beyond mainstream for odd useful products like that screen. But you won't get anywhere with it by complaining to the company who produced it, not unless this video goes viral, or the fault is for all such products. Most likely you just found a board that wrongly went through spot testing as fine. The sad truth is that you can't get good and cheap together, getting things to be good requires more cost. Until production becomes simpler and cheaper through advancements. Often the issue will be with a subcontractor who produced the breadboard, or part that is faulty, and they had a batch go wrong without them even knowing. Quality control is almost non existence in some places, and parts from there end up in the cheaper products more often than the quality products.

[@gabrieldhondt6432]

I bought a year ago a 1920x420 lcd display with display driver from aliexpress and it worked perfect. Made a little casing and dubble sided taped it to the case.

[@astheniacat8710]

The PSU on my PC just randomly died yesterday. Got a new EVGA one at best buy and fixed it in Like 10 minutes. I was super happy the old PSU didn’t take anything with it when it died

[@googlewreckedit]

@6:14 Oh good, I feel reassured about the G6 850 I just bought for my hot "new" Coffee Lake build.

[@googlewreckedit]

Wow! I've always wanted to get sammed! Thanks, Jay! 😅

[@swirrllfolfsky9803]

6:39 perfect spot for the flexible 1/8" extension in an ifixit kit. Would work really well in that situation

[@ap6806]

My computer likes to troll me sometimes, usually at the worst possible time, with some random nonsense. It has a great time of it.

[@DanTheMonkey]

Any chance of doing a video for complete neophytes, basically going through a build explaining the different parts and pieces that one would need to actually make a gaming pc. Maybe explain how and why some parts work and others don't, and how to recognise them. Thanks for reading.

[@Kappi1997]

My guess is that the bend of the print caused a solderjoint of a capacitor to crack. Now the power delivery is unstable under a certain amount of load. The bright color of the windows screen might be too much. Also fits with the symptom of sometimes working, because it might have loose contact.

[@deanw1958]

Your really crazy and fun to watch..THANKS !!!

[@juanme555]

My favorite part of the vid was when Jay said "its buildin' time" and then he proceded to beat all the bad guys in minecraft.

[@MarioGoatse]

My favorite part of the video was when Morbius said "Fine, I'll do it myself".

[@You-gk1el]

I totally understand the “once you get use to it” aspect. For over a decade I’ve used my same old Logitech G13 gaming pad and it’s got a little screen right in front of your fingers telling me temps of GPU, CPU, and fps thru fraps & MSI after burner I will have to find a sealed one when this one dies on eBay I can’t live without it

[@wastanley734]

I got one still working I never use!

[@You-gk1el]

@@wastanley734 leme get that thing lol my mom got it for me when they first came out I can’t live without it

[@RickMyBalls]

Have you been writing 'through' like an infant for a decade too?

[@You-gk1el]

@@RickMyBalls enlighten me grammar king ? Im lost you spell check my comment ?

[@RickMyBalls]

@@You-gk1el Yeah it's me, your spell checker.

[@richardsharp6875]

you need to appease the demons in the computer!

[@ATSF1317]

Just remember the old sayings "less is more" lol 😆

[@2011jaydog]

thats whenyou need a small socket wrench witj a socket small n tihht enougjh it will hold my phillips bit....did my gans inside my power supply shroud in both my lancool 2 meshes...love the vids...from 1 jay to another.

[@Kay8B]

Jay, you could cut the bolts down to length and glue the nut to the underside to make it easier to dismantle.

[@Eidigii]

I use stream deck to display all the information I want from hwinfo in front of my keyboard. Super convenient!

[@christophervanzetta]

Same here and much more flexibility

[@Clavichordist]

This is one of the worst kinds of problems to have with hardware. Flex problems are caused by cold solder joint(s) somewhere on the circuit board or sometimes a hairline crack on the etches. The circuit that handles the output has the cold solder joint somewhere and I'll bet it's with one of the surface-mounted components. I had that with a printer-controller board, and I was able to narrow it down by carefully inspecting the board under a microscope. I got lucky and found an ever-so-slightly lifted pin on a chip. I was able to heat up the pad and squish the pin down and fix the problem.

[@anton5000geo]

32 printed mount suggestion--- (countersink bottom of the mount so a nut fits inside, THEN make the bolt hole big enough to not have to screw the bolt through, then put another nut on the top it holds that bolt and you can remove screen without having to remove power supply.)

[@jay_tarantula899]

This may be my favorite vid of urs yet. 😅 my bike is doing same thing. Its the troll bike now🤣

[@jay_tarantula899]

Eat a bag of baby "rocks"😏

[@allancotterill6469]

you likely have a dry solder point somewhere on the board. try hitting the area that works sometimes when you squeeze it with a heat gun with a fine tip. a bit of flux when doing it would help

[@jeroenk3570]

I had a similar problem with one of those weird aspect ratio 490x1920 Aliexpress screens. It worked on all my other computers but not on my RTX2060. Turned out my (cheap) DP to HDMI adapter impeded the settings communication with my graphics card, after I copied the correct settings from another computer (with native HDMI) everything worked fine.

[@BNEA02]

Have same probs, will try that solution.

[@jeroenk3570]

@@BNEA02 good luck, let me know if it worked.

[@ScottGrammer]

There's nothing wrong with that board that cannot be cured by an angry man with a framing hammer.

[@DoctorX17]

It might be a bad solder connection -- especially with USB ports, sometimes there's a hairline fracture on one or more of the pins that with very slight flexing makes contact and works, and then another flex and it fails. Sometimes it's on a heat-generating component and when it heats up it shifts and breaks the connection

[@jacedafaceis]

I miss when keyboards had LCD's built in. Used to have all this on my Logitech G510s. I think there a couple of keyboards on the market that have it, but super expensive.

[@buzzaard7036]

Clearly when Phil 3D printed the bracket it cause a cold solder joint that has a thin crack that will pass power as long as power is on but the electrons cannot make the jump from a cold start ;)

[@lyianx]

6:40 OR you know you could get out your iFIX IT kit and use the flexible extension... *EXPLOSIONS*

[@riy0h]

They sell 90 degree adapters so you can remove and install tight screws easier. Dewalt makes one that works pretty well.

[@Lt.Shineysides89]

had one of these small raspberry pi monitors it bricked after two days i sent it back and got a portable monitor for a little bit more 15" wich i have half the screen for all my Aida64 sensor panel and the other half for discord etc. I didn't want a full on second 27inch monitor i'd sooner go back to an onscreen display for fps,temps etc but i also didn't want to lose my sensor panel after having it and figured rather than risk one of those little screens again i'd just go for something reliable and i'm glad i did.

[@dther6314]

when you did put pressure on the board, when putting the stand you might have break a solder or two, the more tiny it is, the more fragile. that why it's working until heat does his job. When you have that kind of symptoms that something break time to time, if 99% related to solder points

[@drtaru]

one thing you can do to figure out what might be shrting is hit it with a can of duster air upsidedown to freeze the board, whatever is shorting will get hot and you can see exactly where it is.

[@michaelblack5011]

check USB port 5V and A2SHB 20v 2.6 A SMD MOSFET Transistor for power switch on - off with very low resistance

[@Jamoca5020]

"jay smashing it on the table and we see it works again in the next scene" ahhhh this is how you fix tech issues XD. This is just the oldest thing to do ever. Like some of you might remember when you had that really old chunky TV and the signal is bad, you would hit it on the top a few time and it got better XD. Just reminds me at my childhood.

[@elcajondavid1]

Been there and done that. Just so frustrating when you know it should work but it doesn't work and you keep fiddling with it until someone else tells you that is the problem, but I bought it new. Had that problem with a lot of AMD graphic cards in the early days. Install them and they would not work or work for a very short time.

[@dudehuh5491]

dont give up there chief youll get it

[@rossharper1983]

Seems like a cold solder joint or a cracked trace. Hence why some pressure fixes it. Give it couple minutes with heat gun and see if that fixes it.

[@prydzen]

or bake it?

[@rossharper1983]

@@prydzen baking it unnecessarily heats parts not needed.

[@MariuszChr]

Do you have enough power coming in? Raspberries needs usually 5V 2-3A, plus screen? Might be not good to power it from motherboard. Try power it from wall brick but keep hdmi connected.