Choosing the Best Paver Jointing Compound

Today we talk about the best options for paver jointing compounds. From jointing sand to polymeric sand and semi-permeable to permeable options, we cover it all, the applications, and installation processes involved with these.
Jointing Compound Article:
howtohardscape.com/paving-joi...
Learn more about the Membership Platform:
members.howtohardscape.com/pl...
Join our email mailing list:
eepurl.com/ggVjEX
Website: www.howtohardscape.com/
Podcast: www.howtohardscape.com/podcast/
Instagram: howtohardscape
Facebook: howtohardscape/

[@GTX2202]

this is some of the best content i have found. other people looking to learn should subscribe. hats off to you

[@iamahardscaper]

Thank you!

[@elainep8873]

I'm so grateful to have found your videos. My friend gave me some very thick bluestone that I'm going to make into a patio in a shaded area. Being a novice homeowner trying to save money, I was going to use polymeric sand, but I think being in the north east with freezing cycles and in the shade, I need to learn more before just buying a product. It sounds like a different joint may be called for for both water drainage (it's at the bottom of a hill) and shade application.

[@iamahardscaper]

Yeah polymeric sand can be tricky in shaded areas. If it gets no sun, I’d look into one of the alternatives. Or put a good enough slope on it to run all water off of it

[@bigdaddyyc]

You sir are killing it.

[@iamahardscaper]

Thank you! 🙏

[@johndn9238]

Really useful instructive video; many thanks indeed.

[@iamahardscaper]

Thank you!

[@debbicarmody777]

So. Great videos.. I wish I had seen your videos 10 yrs ago... My back patio/granite flagstone project has been an ongoing nemesis almost every year. Installed and engineered perfectly in the beginning, the weather and of course cedar trees have taken its toll on the project and me. Still, I do love it and I get out there every other year hoping for the beautiful outcome. I call myself a seasoned hs-er.😂 No sailor ever became proficient on a calm sea.. I use elbow grease and knee pads pulling out moss which actually was attractive one year.. to remove the debris then, wait for the sun and pray for the best. I used builder sand one year I was so fed up with the stones.. Ive overfilled, under filled, over watered and even tried concrete which dang near killed me and the luster of the beautiful rich stone as it oozed over the edges.(I didn't stub my toes that year, lol). This year, ill try to follow your advice and keep on the sea of hard skaping and perfecting the technique. Who has more fun than people?, my sister says. Thx again..I digress 😅

[@iamahardscaper]

Thank you for watching and great comment!

[@landonlandon5533]

I just noticed you built little stone piles on the outside seams, nice! I was wondering about the roll out effect.

[@iamahardscaper]

👍👍

[@kristacioffi8047]

Awesome video; thank you for providing the content. I have an older home in the pacific northwest with a paver patio in the yard. I power washed the patio due to algea and mold (I think), which cleaned it pretty well, but also removed some of the fill between the pavers. I was considering using Mold Off, but I haven't done that yet. Anyway! I want to fill the gaps with a sand, and it sounds like the Resin might be a good idea, but I get a ton of rain. I am also unsure if there is gravel below or not, but I know there is a french drain along one of the edges... so probably? Some areas of the patio have sunk, but I know I am not good enough to fix that. Anyway, just wondered what would be the safest choice for an old patio, and if there is something that is a algea/mildew preventer, that would be great. Thanks!!!

[@iamahardscaper]

Resin would be great to use if you get a ton of rain but without knowing what the base is made of, I would just go back to polymeric sand. You could seal it to make things easier to clean, but the best preventer of moss and mold is a properly pitched project that gets a good amount of sun.

[@kristacioffi8047]

@@iamahardscaper Thank you!

[@denverdrygarden2268]

Hi! Thank you for your videos. I have a side paver patio with a large Colorado juniper tree in the middle. So I need the gaps in between the pavers to drain, so that the tree gets water. Weeds are not a concern. What would you recommend for between my pavers? Whatever was in the gaps previously has completely washed away!

[@iamahardscaper]

If you want permeable you should go with EasyJoint by Azpects or Nitro by Alliance if the application is right. Or if the joints are large enough you can use Aqua rock by Alliance.

[@denverdrygarden2268]

@@iamahardscaper Thank you!

[@gregscott2563]

Great Video now the questions. I recently pulled up a walkway of pavers, it appeared to have a sand/soil base now the question is which sand to use? The primary reason is weed control. Here in the NW corner of Virginia weeds grow anywhere/everywhere My first choice is polymeric but not sure about the base. Again, Great video. Raises a lot of questions.

[@iamahardscaper]

If you are discussing the sand for the joints, I would stick to polymeric sand. Just make sure that you follow the directions very carefully and maybe watch this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aoqyqZRrZ5h3Ztk I personally do not like using the semi-permeable jointing compound for pavers on a sand bedding / base. Your other option would be just loose jointing sand and adding a joint stabilizing sealer to it.

[@jmvar]

Hi, what great video. I had a paver patio put in 4 years ago and the contractor used cr6 as a base and stone dust as a bed. I wish they had used something besides stine dust but I am stuck with what I have. The poly sand has turned black and is gummy 4 years later. The pavers are nicolock with a pretty tight gap. What do you suggest I used to replace the poly sand?

[@iamahardscaper]

That’s a tough one. Poly is not ideal with the stone dust there, but the only other option is jointing sand loose. But that will wash out over time and weeds will grow if not maintained. You could apply a joint stabilizing sealer to seal in that sand, but with stone dust there acting as a sponge for water you would want to really make sure there is no moisture that you are trapping in with the sealer.

[@user-ig2vd2vq4h]

Great video.. subscribed! We have concrete under our 1" brick pavers.. with what looked like orange fill dirt in between. the joints were filled with polymetric sand, and sealed. The work done was not very professional... and some of the sand has washed away. My question is: can I remove the remainder of the sand and fill the joints with regular tile grout? Thx, Jack

[@iamahardscaper]

No that wont hold up with movement. I couldn't be able to say for sure with what was put between the pavers and the concrete, but if a good draining sand or chip gravel was not used it is going to be hard to get polymeric sand to actually work. You may want to use a jointing sand and then seal the sand in place.

[@petehall2982]

so if i am using the angular crushed clean stone for a joint in a flagstone patio I can and or should use a joint stabilizing sealer to keep out moss etc. and if so can you suggest a few brands?

[@iamahardscaper]

It won’t necessarily keep moss from growing but it will make cleaning easier. You’ll also want to make sure that the sealer will work with that size stone. TechniSeal and Alliance are a couple brands I’ve used

[@mrsstaff7876]

We have just used the Sika fast fix all weather jointing compound, we have blues and greys Indian sandstone flags with black limestone cobbles round the edges we used the charcoal colour. The sun came out when we were starting to use it and this has caused it to stain the flags also it’s not as easy as it looks because you need to compact it down really well or it will come out when you try cleaning the flags. We have tried lots of different patio cleaners to try and get the stain out but so far they have not worked.

[@iamahardscaper]

wow that is a pain. I'll have to look into that and see if it is consistent with Sika or the charcoal color in general across manufacturers.

[@beatrizrazcon142]

Hi, Thank You for the video!. My pavers' joints are 1/4 in wide, but only 1in high and I am struggling to find a good joint compound, since basically all of them recommend at least 1in depth but if I account for the 1/8in clearance required, then I am left with 0.875in. Would you think it would still be ok? Have you done a project with thin pavers like this? I am using synthetic base. Thank You in advance for your comment!

[@iamahardscaper]

I would think that you would be okay. I have done projects with the same material on the same base and have been fine. But don’t take my word for it, I would reach out to the manufacturer of the sand to ask

[@apwong8]

Ive watched probably 20 of your videos - so helpful. I butted my 20” pavers up to each other and the gaps are mostly about 1/16” with a few odd ones around 1/8”. Should I use polymeric sand? A few people have steered me away because of how small my cracks are. I was considering just using concrete sand…. Would LOVE some help and advice!

[@iamahardscaper]

Thank you! There are sands that are fine enough for 1/16”. Maybe alliance Gator or NOCO by TechniSeal. I’d buy one bag and try and see before you commit. You could do a jointing sand, but you’d want to eventually apply a joint stabilizing sealer to keep it there

[@jaco3251]

Planning to use a resin based compound on my irregular flagstone patio. My base is a few inches on stone dust on top of 4-6 inches of large angular compacted gravel. It is graded and drains very well. Despite this, am I inviting failure with the resin based grout due to the use of stone dust?

[@iamahardscaper]

I would double check with the manufacturer of whichever resin based compound you use to be sure.

[@Adsaved]

Thanks for the video. I have clear stone gravel as base over sandy soil, geo-textile fabric, then bedding base layer called APB, then laying flag stones in mostly with tight small 1” gaps but some 2-3 inches of gaps. Now wondering do I need to put mortar under flag stones or go with Polymeric sand or Raisin mix base? What do you suggest?😅

[@iamahardscaper]

personally I do not mortar unless over a concrete slab. Use an appropriate polymeric sand or resin based jointing compound, but make sure you are getting the wide joint formulas for either of those. It will cost more but if you do not it will definitely fail.

[@ryanmatone]

Great video, if we are putting 12x12x2 red square pavers around our semi in ground pool. How would you do it? We are putting in a drain and then we were thinking about putting a insulation foam panel around the thin walls of the pool so that pavers are not right next to the pool. Using 3” of 3/4” crushed clean gravel, then HPB but I’m not sure how much I would need for approximately 500 sq ft. Do we figure about an inch, like sand? What would be best for jointing products? Any information would be appreciated. Thank you

[@iamahardscaper]

Hi, I'll try to hit on each of these: if you are in a climate that experiences freeze thaw you would want to be a minimum 6" for your base. 1" of HPB. to know how many yards you need: (square feet x depth in inches) * 0.003. Jointing compound recommendations would be dependent on joint width. This video covers that I believe.

[@cindycleland7026]

I'm looking for geo textile fabric and what I see on line is landscape fabric for weed control. Does this gardening fabric fabric work between a concrete slab and the concrete sand?

[@iamahardscaper]

No, you will have to go to your local landscape supplier and get their nonwoven geotextile.

[@11sgsg1]

Super informative! I have a question though…around 4:40 it sounds like you do not recommend a base of stone dust when using polymeric sand. If I got that right, I’m wondering why not use stone dust as a base? Thanks in advance!

[@iamahardscaper]

The short answer is that stone dust is not good for drainage. It does not allow water to pass through it which causes polymeric sand failure. If you go to our channel page and search stone dust in the search bar, we have a video explaining it in full.

[@11sgsg1]

@@iamahardscaper thank you. I’m having a simple driveway widening job done very soon, this helps me tremendously. I’ll go and check out the other video to hopefully learn more before the work starts.

[@cindycleland7026]

Can one use Mapi's indoor/outdoor grout if the tiles are on a bed of concrete sand? I'm laying 18x18 outdoor porcelain over a slab with the non woven geo textile between. Does this sound doable?

[@iamahardscaper]

Probably best to check with Mapei and the porcelain manufacturer

[@intruderzx]

Thanks a lot for the information...will Easyjoint stain my flagstones? I built a natural flagstone patio (some form of a sandstone) and the stones have a lot of texture on the surface that will likely trap some of the jointing compound...I am thinking about using loose sand or jointing chips for this reason...any advice would be appreciated!

[@iamahardscaper]

It wont stain if it is installed properly. Use lots of water and take your time rinsing off the flagstone. Double check that it can be used with sandstone, as well as your joint widths.

[@intruderzx]

thanks a lot! will try to get it done this weekend.

[@chaseo9904]

I am thinking of doing a small 130sqft paver patio in phoenix, az. So no freeze cycles, I was going to use gator base but am torn on the jointing compound. My pavers are 1/8in joints and the patio will be in the shade. Based on your recommendation I am thinking of sloping at 1/4in per foot to get the best drainage and least pooling. Is there a polymeric sand on the market that can work in 1/8in joint applications or is my best bet regular sand like "concrete sand" for the joints then a sealer over top? If so what is a good sealer that wont leave anything on the paver surface. I like the natural look of the stone I have.

[@iamahardscaper]

I’d say the Gator base may not save you as much labor as it would where I am with freeze thaw cycles. There is definitely poly sand that will work with those joints without a problem. I’d find what is available near you and check with the manufacturer. But you could definitely go the jointing sand route (not concrete sand, it is slightly different). As for sealers, most poly sand manufacturers also sell sealers so you can check to see what they have available, no recommendation here they are all the same. They will have natural look sealers

[@ryanmatone]

Hi, we had pavers installed, the pavers we placed did not have a joint, pavers are all placed now but there is no room to place the polymeric sand , play sand, ect.. the joints are tight. What would you do? We used 3/4” clean rock, and 3/8” crushed angle rock/ HPB, thank you, sent an email with pictures to email on website. Thank you , great content

[@iamahardscaper]

I sent a reply to your email 👍

[@TrisnaLim]

Hi I have a brick patio in an apartment balcony. I believe there’s a membrane underneath the patio that seals it from the rooms. I have weeds growing through the gaps and would like to have a more permanent solution. Should I use jointing compound ?

[@iamahardscaper]

No, I believe there would need to be airflow. I can’t say for sure without actually seeing it

[@nathanielswan909]

I had someone do a slope up to a higher portion of my backyard. Unfortunately, they placed only one flagstone to each (about a foot) so there is a lot of gravel around and few flagstones. It has weathered pretty well but Now that I have a destination decking up the slope I want to make sure the walk is safer. Maybe it's time to redo the whole slope but since it is on a slope, there is some (slight) land movement so nothing is going to last. The project I am speaking of has lasted about 5 years. Would just mixing cement and gravel around the stones give me any more stability? thanks

[@iamahardscaper]

That is probably not what you would want to do especially with those gaps and if you have freeze thaw cycles. Hard to say without seeing it for myself.

[@vVeazel]

Maybe I missed this, but have you tried the QC-based "EV Polymeric Sand"? Curious to hear how it performs; I like that it accommodates gaps up to 4", compared to something like EZ Sand from HD that only supports up to 1/2".

[@iamahardscaper]

I have not, but I will eventually try to test a variety of sands and see how the perform.

[@vVeazel]

@@iamahardscaper No problem, thank you for replying!. I might give it a go :)

[@billabitz8478]

I have not tried EZ-Joint yet, and no experience with polymetric sand. Most suppliers in my area discourage the use of polymetric sand. Is there one that you prefer specifically.

[@marcusceliano588]

Can you use a polymeric sand with an open graded base application or can it only be a semi permeable jointing compound like ez joint

[@iamahardscaper]

Yup, definitely 👍

[@joeblaze1159]

I might have messed up using pressure fine/black Breeze for my base 🤔 I want to seal it as well and my gaps are pretty big any suggestions

[@iamahardscaper]

I don’t quite know what that base is. Suggestions on a sealer?

[@victorvargas2167]

Question when you have big gaps what do you recommend I would send you pics I don’t know how

[@iamahardscaper]

There are polymeric sands that are rated for larger joint sizes

[@bradcruise6291]

What do you think of wet lock? My guys have used it a few times. My thoughts so far are it sucks 😕 even though every supplier is trying to push it super hard. Ever use it? It seems hard to work with unless there a trick were not using. Any thoughts? Regular polymeric just seems better and easier.

[@iamahardscaper]

Is that like EasyJoint or Nitro? I do like it, but only for the right application. It’s expensive and it takes longer to install. Love it for raised patios though

[@lettermansgirl90]

Great info. Can u give me your opinion? I live in southern Ontario, about 100 feet from Lake Erie in the front and back into a wooded area…so lots of insects and debris🙄 but it’s lovely. 5 years ago, new build, professionally landscaped…the intent was low maintenance for us as we getting up there. In the back yard we have a stamped dyed concrete and sealed patio (that has chipped everywhere) and below that (grass level) a flagstone patio about 5 ft wide by 15 ft long with polymeric sand. After less than 1 yr, it was a mess. Now the stones nearest to the house are sunk and the poly is literally a mess. Last year I tried to fill in with more poly, but that is in the landscaping now. There is little sun in this area and it mostly stays on the damp side. Even the house has some green mold near the bottom in this area. We can’t even walk on it because it’s such a mess…and the ants 😳 I like the flagstone, and can’t afford to have it ripped out and redone. I’m wondering what you think about a cement product/mix that we would be able to apply. E tween the joints/stones, of course after lifting the stones and creating a proper slope again and removing what’s left of the polymeric sand and moss and ant hills. So frustrated as even watering plants near the area is a disaster, and when it rains it’s even worse😩. So much for a low maintenance yard. I appreciate your input very much😊🇨🇦

[@iamahardscaper]

Unfortunate to hear. Also in ontario 👍 Are you using polymeric sand meant for wide joints? How wide is your flagstone spaced apart? What does the bedding layer below the flagstone look like - chips of stone, chips and dust, sand? The solution of a cement mixture will crack after a winter if the flagstone is not installed on concrete.

[@lettermansgirl90]

@@iamahardscaper thanks for replying😊. I will check tomorrow and I will let you know. Thankyou!!!

[@lettermansgirl90]

Hi again. The stones are spaced 3/4 -1 inch apart. I’m not sure what kind of poly was used. It was whatever the landscaper used. The base is chips of stone and dust. The stones are easy to pull up as most of the poly is either gone or not stable. Not sure what to do, the poly won’t set. After watching your video, I think it may be because it’s mostly shade and damp in that area. Would love to just throw cement between the stones.🙄 where in ont are you located? I’m in Amherstburg.

[@iamahardscaper]

I am in Toronto. You should look up Ardex exterior grout. I use it when I mortar natural stone for the joints. I believe it is polymer modified which is what you are looking for. But reach out to Ardex and inquire about this same problem you are having and if their product would be applicable.

[@lettermansgirl90]

@@iamahardscaper ok, I will for sure. Thanks so much for the information and taking the time to help. I appreciate it very much!

[@manjarikapashi9195]

Hi I am planning to iinstall a 300 ft open base patio with flagstone. What joining compound would be the best regardless of the price. I am going to follow your technique only and am in the process of finding a the right person. I live in nj and not everyone wants to open base. Please advise about joining compound.

[@iamahardscaper]

it would likely need to be polymeric sand. TechniSeal has NOCO, Alliance has a wide joint polymeric sand. You want to get the flagstone to be fairly tight as you lay. You could also install a loose chip stone but that brings more maintenance but makes it more permeable. And then just to overwhelm you with choices, Romex has a permeable jointing compound, but I do not know off the top of my head the maximum width for that.

[@daysofgrace2934]

Your jointing sand should have cement mixed in. You press it the joints with a bit hose pipe so that it has been compacted. The cement will cure by taking the moisture from the sand...

[@iamahardscaper]

That would not work anywhere with a freeze thaw cycle.

[@deepteshagrawal]

If I am already planned for having sealer on pavers...will the jointing sand work? will it get lose or come out of joints when we will wash pavers before putting sealer? and what sealer is good? wet look or penetrating? And the base would be GAP20+sand. Or would you suggest to go with Resin based grout?

[@iamahardscaper]

Sand is fine, I would lay everything and compact your pavers into the sand if the pavers have spacers on the sides and are touching. Then wash, then install jointing sand, compact again to consolidate, then seal using a joint stabilizing sealer. Any sealer as long as it provides the look you want.

[@deepteshagrawal]

@@iamahardscaper Thanks a lot !!!

[@tomnapper101]

Old school best way is old way pointing need 10 ml joint 👍. A mixer I would do 1 off Sharp sand and 2 of soft and one of cement mixer up a little touch of spr in cement mixer . A mix it up like semi-dry when you put in joints tuck in really well and of with a doner or a 10 ml finger trowel that only way forward that's the way I was taught old stone mason 👍

[@iamahardscaper]

Good method as well!

[@tommann1776]

So I’m trying to repair pavers that have sunk over the years and need to be fixed. Because there are so many and most have sunk about an inch I’m basically redoing the whole walkway. Since I don’t have a drainage system for it, and don’t want to install one, what’s the best polymeric sand to use? From all the different videos I’ve watched it sounds like no matter what sand I use it will be horrible in 5 years. So is there a sand you would recommend? And would using a sealer over top help that or no?

[@iamahardscaper]

I like to use TechniSeal or Alliance. Both can be installed poorly though and you could have problems. I typically see a little more than 5 years and a sealer would help a little.

[@tommann1776]

@@iamahardscaper ok and I’ve got about 1/4-1/8” in between the pavers and do those work for joints that are so narrow?

[@billabitz8478]

Why not use EZ Joint in garden walkway with paver base and cushion sand? Will the sand wash out from beneath the pavers even with a cement border with border pavers embedded in cement?

[@iamahardscaper]

I personally do not like the idea of introducing a significant amount of water to concrete sand. You should not experience washout if it is contained. But I will always opt for 1/4" chip as my bedding layer over concrete sand.

[@billabitz8478]

I have plenty of paver base leftover and can remove the cushion sand and replace with paver base instead. More compacting or just screed it over the compacted base?

[@iamahardscaper]

You will need the bedding sand and you will want to keep that layer as consistent as possible.

[@Bigwilly417]

Ca you give a second coating if you feel it's not quite full I'm using slabs with pretty wide gaps thanks

[@iamahardscaper]

It should all be applied at once before curing so that it bonds fully. Remember that it should be 1/8” below the top of paver or bottom of chamfer.

[@Bigwilly417]

Thanks it should be fine everything is solid when should you put it down after it shows wear? And is it a good thing to seal it

[@iamahardscaper]

Looks like my reply didn’t post. I’ll try this again: If there are noticeable cracks where insects and weeds are getting in. If it has weathered away to about 3/8” below the top of paver / bottom of chamfer. Noticeable signs of wear. Though most manufacturers have a 15 year or so warranty on this stuff nowadays if installed properly. Sealing is an added bonus to preserve the pavers it can’t be done for at least 30 days after installing joint material (see manufacturers instructions). It would help stabilize joints as well.

[@thanhsmythe6468]

Hello, I put down polymeric joining sand on my pavers it causes hazing ( powder residue to the entire yard with white color, so how can I fix the problem ??? good thing I did not put the sealer on top yet. please give me tip as soon as you get my message I need to know what to do next ??? thank you so much. I am waiting for your tip.

[@iamahardscaper]

There are haze cleaners you can use. Contact your local landscape supplier, send them some photos, they should have a product that will help you with this. Follow the directions and start with a small area that is less noticeable just to make sure there is no adverse reaction.

[@rorycompton8138]

What’s the best semi permeable jointing compound you have used as far as maintenance ease and durability? Wetlock, NOCO Storm, and Easy Joint seem to be the major players.

[@iamahardscaper]

i've only used EasyJoint. There's also Nitro. I've heard that is good too. Haven't heard feedback on those others

[@miked6247]

If I have a pool deck on top of open graded base and bedding, will the permeable jointing material apply even if the project isn’t a permeable application? Or can that jointing material be sealed to make it less permeable?

[@iamahardscaper]

Yes, we use this on our open graded bases all the time. For a pool patio you’d want to make sure the water going through the joints is not going to float your pool though. And I don’t know about sealing

[@miked6247]

@@iamahardscaper what do u mean by float the pool?

[@miked6247]

@@iamahardscaper it’s an in ground fiberglass.

[@iamahardscaper]

There is always a risk of enough water working it’s way beneath the pool and eventually pushing the pool out of the ground. Typically there is some sort of outlet when building a pool or a sump pump installed just in case

[@miked6247]

@@iamahardscaper now that I think of it…. While have a decent 12” of clear stone, there’s woven fabric down yonder. May have to rethink it

[@m-tron5966]

can you pour Dry and Sweep Mortar into the Joints...like you would Polymeric sand ? or is that something thats forbidden ?

[@iamahardscaper]

No that would not work

[@charlesrowley1657]

Suggestions for big gaps in bricks....owner is ok with the old rough look, we are just trying to figure out what to fill it with.

[@iamahardscaper]

Bricks or pavers? For pavers, depending on the gap size, there are specialized polymeric sands for wider gaps

[@charlesrowley1657]

@@iamahardscaper brickers

[@R359329]

I've seen people used: play sand + backer rod + Self-Levelling Polyurethane Sealant on top, what do you think of this method? bad or good?

[@iamahardscaper]

I haven’t heard of that. But definitely not for vehicular applications because you won’t get the proper interlock

[@amazonx42]

I don't have a compactor and there's nothing in the joints but weeds. Is there anything I can just brush in and be done? Should I just hire a contractor?

[@iamahardscaper]

unfortunately if there are weeds in the joints you are going to have to address those first. Could be something that you could pressure wash out, but often times we are just doing a lift and re-lay of those pavers and scrapping out the bedding layer and replacing it before laying the pavers back down just to ensure we get all the weeds out. Could be worthwhile to at least have a contractor come look at it and get their opinion on what they would do.

[@amazonx42]

@@iamahardscaper yes, I would definitely have to get the weeds out first. I pressure washed them out before and discovered the pavers were red, but any kind of joint sealer with labor or compactor rental (I wanted the polymer sand and don't trust myself to install properly) was beyond my budget and ability, so the weeds grew back in 3 months.

[@rad2304]

How about I use cement for the joints? Is it a good idea?

[@iamahardscaper]

No good. You need something that will flex with movement

[@bradcruise6291]

The ground moves, that's why I always push pavers over stamped concrete as it cracks even with the ugly joints in the middle of your pattern. Unless your setting the pavers on top of solid concrete, I wouldn't use mortar or cement. Even then, I'd only use mortar. Sand allows pavers to move with the land and it hardens like cement, plus 10 times easier to replace or maintain.

[@peterfox3151]

How do you know if have stone dust or something else?

[@iamahardscaper]

Best bet is to either Google a close up image of stone dust. Or go to a local supplier and see it in person. Than compare. Major difference between stone dust and concrete sand (the two you may have trouble with identitying) is stone dust is more fine with shards of chipped stone. Concrete sand is more gritty with subangular particles.

[@I_discovered_civilization]

What are the names of the resin based jointing compound?

[@iamahardscaper]

Nitro by alliance or EasyJoint by Azpects

[@joemayer5781]

Much appreciation for your content! I’m a rookie trying to pull off a 300 sf patio and 12x14 pavilion install. I have dense clay soil. 8”-9” excavated with about 1/8”+ slope. I’ve opted for an open grade base, non woven fabric, and my pavers are the Tremco Mega Old town with 1/8” joints. What is the best poly sand (or other jointing material) I can use given the application? Also, any other suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks for your content!

[@BunnyMom2023]

Hi, I’m trying to fix up an enclosed raised paver patio. It was installed several years ago and the contractor used play sand to fill the joints. At the time he said that polymeric sand wasn’t necessary. However, living somewhere with heavy rainfalls washed out the play sand fairly quickly. I tried to do polymeric myself after pressure washing at some point and hated how temperamental is was. I had to pressure wash again and manually scrape out what I’d put down - as it did not turn out perfect. Now it’s back with the play sand, but I still have significant wash out, weed growth, algae growth, ants and worms! 😞 I’ve read a bit about stone dust for paver joints (not under). Is this something you would recommend to solve some of my issues? Any other recommendations/suggestions? Thanks for your time.

[@iamahardscaper]

I wouldn’t go stone dust. You could use a jointing sand (not play sand) it is still sand but more angular fine grains as opposed to the circular grains in play sand. Then you could apply a joint stabilizing sealer. This would protect your pavers and joints.

[@BunnyMom2023]

@@iamahardscaper Thanks for the reply! I'll look into the options you mentioned...

[@MrPoosarlasrinivas]

It would be great if you could give the products that are available in the market. It will make DIYers like me job easily done😊

[@iamahardscaper]

For sure! If you visit the link in our description there is an article with more info

[@peachbuckett]

You said that you do not recommend semi-permeable for traditional bases (sand over gravel) which is what I have. I am wondering what the reason is for this. I want to get maximum longevity from my compound with the ability to power wash it clean (without damage and washout) and it seems like a semi-permeable solutions like Easyjoint would be the most durable and long lasting despite the higher up front cost. Please advise.

[@iamahardscaper]

I would reach out to the manufacturer directly and see what they say. I just don’t like introducing that much water to a base that has that many fines that can be suspended and clog the system or washout

[@darrenwatters3054]

Very well explained, but need a cementious grout on a full concrete bed other wise your pissing in the wind 👍

[@iamahardscaper]

Haha I like that saying 👍 I don’t quite know what you’re referring to though, we never lay directly on concrete.

[@darrenwatters3054]

Ok , in the UK that's what we do ? if you're not laying on a concrete bed surely there's movement in the paving , which will result in movement in the joint's ???

[@iamahardscaper]

Yeah we deal with multiple freeze-thaw cycles here in Canada, so we want our base and pavement to be flexible. That’s why we use polymer modified sand for our joints so that it will be flexible as well. Cement plays a small role in it as well. Interesting to learn installation methods from overseas

[@darrenwatters3054]

Totally agree, interesting insight, thank you 👍

[@Jay-od7uj]

I don't think using sealer is good. Getting it off is literally impossible

[@iamahardscaper]

Yeah if the install is botched and you need to get it off it’s no fun