Ice Anchors

[@northwoodsrat6686]

Thanks , Patric ; probably the best and most clearly explained ice anchor tutorial vid iv'e seen on the Tube . Very helpful !

[@logiconabstractions6596]

About offsetting horizontal/vertical: So, my thinking here is a bit physical, but bear with me. If we consider ice an isotropic medium*, then only the distance between the 2 screw matter. If we consider it to be anisotropic (e.g. it behaves differently along different axis, such are aligned with gravity or perpendicular to it), then I'd be curious to know what causes the difference. Gravity would be an obvious reason: 1 - Perhaps the weight of the other ice above introduce a compressive force, and cracks are inherently more likely to propagate perdicular to that force (so horizontally) 2 - Or perhaps cracks parallele to the compressive force are more likely. However, given that a force parallel to the compression is in a very different position relatively to the proposed source of the anisotropy (e.g. the compressive force), it is not obvious that they both source result in likelier fractures. We do tend to observe more horizontal fractures, force instance when a pillar or chunk of ice breaks/cracks from our tool. I am less sure about vertical fractures. They don't seem particularly present to me in practice, but perhaps I'll pay more attention to that. * Meaning it properties behave the same in all direction. Most material are isotropics

[@SBF_FTX593]

100 hr of youtube and now im ready to go climbing. can't wait.

[@aacc2622]

Great video! well explained thank you 👍🏼

[@oktawiangornik1284]

I don´t quite fancy the idea of clipping into clovehitch so late in the process. If you´d be in the vertical ice, I belive you would secure yourself much sooner? Also, readjusting the slack as you´ve shown could propose a great shck load, if you slip accidentally. Or am I missing something?

[@erlendply]

The quad: #1 better tell why we double the 240 sling here, to prevent people making it with a single 120cm dyneema sling. Knot reduction is often not talked about. #2 why the unnecessary distance between knots? Despite this, thank you for making these video tutorials.

[@justinhardesty5131]

what's the benefit to having the knots closer?

[@erlendply]

@@justinhardesty5131 because it doesn't need to be that far apart, normally not more than a fists width. And that will lessen the shock load on the remaining piece if one fails, which is the essence of the quad in the first place.