Comparing A-Threads and V-Threads for Ice Climbing Anchor Strength

Are a-threads or v-threads stronger? What makes a "threaded" ice climbing anchor strong in the first place? In this video, we go a little deeper into the characteristics of stronger and weaker threaded anchors and go through a tutorial of how to build a good one.
For more information on this video, go to:
www.shortguysbetaworks.com/al...
Follow this link for a good summary of the study cited in the video: “Ice Climbing Anchor Strength: An In-depth Analysis" by J. Marc Beverly and Stephen W. Attaway
www.ukclimbing.com/articles/s...
Triangle images and calculations were created using www.calculator.net/triangle-c...
I like to use the Blue Ice Aero screws for the threaded anchors. It's the lightest steel screw on the market (aluminum is lighter, but can sometimes get stuck when boring the holes). It is also slightly wider in diameter, increasing the odds of ensuring the second hole connects with the first. You can find them, here: bit.ly/3HfRgSe
0:00 Intro
0:04 Bumper
0:13 What are A- and V-Threads
0:35 Size of Ice Envelopment
2:09 Airy Ice
2:23 Horizontal Cracks
2:40 Anchor Study
3:07 Ice is Highly Variable
3:25 A-Thread Advantages
3:38 How to Build an A-Thread
5:21Outro
To see all of our video and blog content, you can visit:
www.shortguysbetaworks.com
Please see the link for our disclaimer policy for all of our videos: www.shortguysbetaworks.com/di...
This video description may contain affiliate links; if you make a purchase through a link, I’ll receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. This help allows us to continue to make videos like this. Thank you for the support!

[@ShortGuysBetaWorks]

Do you have any climbing practices that you once thought were sketchy and now you do regularly? What did you learn to change your mind?

[@tacul9333]

I generally back up an A or V thread with a screw, which the last person down removes. That way, if there are unknown weaknesses in the ice around the thread, the screw is a failsafe. Fattest guy (usually me,) goes first, testing the integrity of the thread.

[@ShortGuysBetaWorks]

I agree that you should always back up the thread until the last person. Since it was only me, I was the last person 😂 At some point, I will probably do one (or a few) videos on the whole rap sequence.

[@highfives1470]

Was that a Sports Respirator that you had on? What kind?

[@ShortGuysBetaWorks]

Not a training device. It is a heat exchanger. Warms the air before I breathe it in. I have asthma, and it helps avoid cold-induced inflammation. It's called an Airtrim.

[@CesarHernandezH]

What kind of rings you use on your v-thread? Do you leave those behind?

[@ShortGuysBetaWorks]

Typically you don't use a ring, I did so just because I was obviously staging this and was going to go back and clean everything, anyway, so as to leave no trace. If you have a thick enough cord (7mm or so), you can go right off of the cord and leave only that. In fact, if you have ice that is really cold (not wet) there is the option to just thread the rope and leave nothing behind. (Wet ice could freeze the rope in place.) For this staged thing, this happens to be an SMC ring: www.rei.com/product/799957/smc-rigging-ring

[@CesarHernandezH]

@@ShortGuysBetaWorks Thanks a lot for the response. I agree with what you said. I was just curious to see the ring in there and I was wondering if people leave rings under certain circumstances. My understanding is that if it's wet, you probably want to use a cord (7mm or more as you said), otherwise, threading the rope is fine.

[@ShortGuysBetaWorks]

@@CesarHernandezH Right on. Only reason I can think of why you might want to leave a ring or biner behind is if you ran out of thick (7mm) cord and were down to something small (like 5mm or such) and didn't like the idea of draping the thick diameter rope over a small diameter cord. For me, I just didn't want to put unnecessary wear on my soft goods for the video; it's not like I am making any money doing this and can just buy a bunch of new stuff 🤣

[@CesarHernandezH]

@@ShortGuysBetaWorks You are pushing great content out there... keep going!

[@ShortGuysBetaWorks]

@@CesarHernandezH appreciate the support and affirmation. Thank you! 🙏