ICT Billet 551694H LS Coolant Steam Port Crossover Hose Kit Installation Instructions LS swap

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@dtperformance256 Күн бұрын

Love ICT Billet products. I have the alternator bracket, TH400 an cooler fittings, and the governor cover for my TH400 transmission. Planning on installing the steam port kit and valley cover on my upcoming LS build! Good stuff guys!

@jorge_herediajr 5 жыл бұрын

Great job. Couldn't you just use thread sealant ? instead of the tape ?

@deankay4434 4 жыл бұрын

Both GM and Permatex sells a Teflon based sealant for this purpose. In 35 years, I have never used Teflon tape on a vehicle as in many cases, it can be a sensor that requires ground via the head/engine to complete the circuit. Tape won’t do this. Try Teflon tape on gen 1 GM engine headbolts that screw into the coolant jacket. Good luck!

@13megagreek 4 жыл бұрын

So , where is the exit port on this thing??

@deankay4434 4 жыл бұрын

It just goes back and forth then round and round. Different kit for rear steam ports, I guess! I had 4 on my 03 Tahoe 5.3L. I just drilled out the rear at 3/16” to open. Then drilled to 1/4” for steel brake line. Drilled 3/16” hole in center in rear, then more to the right on front. Round file to “Fish Mouth” and bent a connector line. 10% silver soldered a tack on each. Made a paper template & fabricated a wrap a round end gusset. It is shaped like an “T” but two together one piece. Cut, opened with punch, flattened center, wrapped it around the end and center to form a gusset. Mine warms the throttle body for winter, but put an NPT 90 degree on water pump suction side. (I have 4 more ACDelco new) Vise grips, held in vise w/brass jaws, silver soldered, round filed & sanded clean. Pressured checked for an hour at 50 PSI, cleaned, primed, painted. I am sorry, not billet! No billet in wallet! ASE Master Tech in 1978-Retired.

@charlesguero2003 5 жыл бұрын

So I'm guessing, you do the same on the back set?

@justinshields4216 3 жыл бұрын

Can this be used with stock ls3 intake to use all 4 inlets? Im worried about the rear cylinders under boost

@mrwhite1957 4 жыл бұрын

I keep hearing that most people that dont have a high dollar race engine use block offs on the rear but I dont see any info about them or even where to get them?

@timothyclouatre8433 4 жыл бұрын

Amazon

@deankay4434 4 жыл бұрын

After 35+ years of fixing imports and domestic vehicles, mostly at dealers, where is the trapped air going? Yes, when hot enough, it turns to steam. Imports used aluminum heads on cast iron blocks for decades. After servicing a cylinder head, during initial start up, the head is full of air. But the top mounted thermostat had a “Jiggle” valve or captured ball valve. This allows air to exit and coolant can fill the head, keeping it cool during this period. Thermostats sold durning service, found itself on my block of wood with an ice pick ground old broke screwdriver, poking a small hole into the bridge of the thermostat in a fashion not to impede the action, but allow air out especially on domestic engines. Now, here is the “LS” type engines. Air is introduced during service, but also, internal sharp edge castings cause voids & cavitation. This too introduces air in the coolant as well. With the high point at the top fronts, this air is trapped, causing hot spots, pre-ignition, detonation or damage. I’ve used a funnel designed to attach to the radiator with adapters, but once the thermostat opens, the radiator went empty. This is unacceptable and so is this left/right head connection to do nothing to remove trapped air. Sorry. Advice from experience. ASE Master Tech since 1978, UTI instructor, ACDelco tech seminars, trainer-Retired.

@CouchHam 4 жыл бұрын

So what is your advice? I’m not understanding how the air gets out either, so what’s the solution?

@deankay4434 4 жыл бұрын

Coolant can boil in hot spots in the head around the exhaust plus sharp corners in the casting of the coolant jacket can create negative pressure, both cause boiling. Air is trapped and does not flow like a liquid and air is an insulator. If trapped, it can only make it worse. Most engines are set at a 3 degree angle down in the back, the trans is same but done to allow proper U-joint movement. Air would naturally try to seek the highest point, but if coolant is being pushed toward it, it's trapped. A jar of water on the counter at room temp, placed into a vacuum will boil. The trick is to allow for trapped air to escape with coolant pushing it. On the LS engine, many models after 2004-2008 use 4-way steam vents. They can cost $80 or more. I drill and install 1/4" NPT fittings with barb fittings to join the front. Other methods can be employed as long as they can handle 20 PSI or more of hot coolant with a long life. That's all. Hopes this helps! Look for videos or boat props underwater when accelerating or vacuum room temp water / fluids. Fuel, soap and other additives where vacuum boiled to combine them, when making "Napalm". I will not give all the ingredients. Have a good experience.

@deankay4434 4 жыл бұрын

@@Robo.1776 The hose end that warms the throttle body can run to the radiator, upper hose adaptor, coolant recovery tank. (Careful, it’s a plastic part) I drilled & tapped an 1/8” NPT in my water pump by upper neck. I put a barbed 90 degree brass fitting & clamp. It only Only 16 pounds or less ( Cap Rating ) The rear ports are plugged. I marked, drilled 3/16” hole into head insert hole. Then drill 1/4” hole about 1/4” in. Using steel brake line, braze fitting. Repeat on other side after cutting to length. It can be bent by hand to match “S” curve and miss oil & camshaft sensor. On passengers side, two inches from center, bend new pipe to miss knock sensors, cut extra a front existing pipe. Drilling a 3/16” hole on both old & new pipe. Bend clean 1/4” steel brake line to fit holes on front to rear w/extra. I placed brass jaws in vise, rat tail filed a round end to fit round pipe. Once fitted, clean & mark. Use a #3 torch tip on low heat. My general purpose brazing rod is flux coated. Tack both ends while blowing air lightly to keep open. Fabricate a wrap-a-round gusset, shaped like a cross out of paper. Use a Dremal / RotoZip with diamond wheel to cut tubing the length of pattern. Tip; Use heavy wire thru center of tubing, clamped in vise to keep from collapsing. Open cut tubing with small cold chisel until it fits over the pipe. Mark the center at hole and measure 3/4” total, with pipe centered. (About 3/16” on both side of center) Now fold over scrap/extra tubing toward long center pipe. Use needle nose vise or regulator type. Pliers & vise can help. At this point, on practice piece, you should have long wrap side covering the long center pipe with narrow pipe covering short pipe from head fittings. It took me some practice on real pipe as braze tack can break. Additional cutting will allow the use of a center punch to complete a tight fit. Between the vise and needle nose vise grips to hold in place, finish brazing in steps. Allowing one side to cool, rotate to other side to complete. Between a rotary sanding disc & metal file, rat tail inside corners, it will come out great. I cleaned it on the wire wheel, scotchbrite and isopropyl or acetone (Finger nail polish remover),?primed and painted silver. The trick is use gussets. Wrap around or triangles. It adds strength to abate vibration. Any slight discretions in fitment, can be twisted or bent to fit perfect. Remember the saying; “If you didn’t build it, it ain’t yours”! Hope this helps!