These 5 Climbing Myths Must Be Stopped (Full Crimp, Carbs, Weight Training)

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Hydration and muscular performance: does fluid balance affect strength, power and high-intensity endurance - bit.ly/3jqMp7q
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Context
00:35 Myth #5: Momentum
02:07 Myth #4: Water, Carbs, Electrolytes
04:01 Myth #3: Training
06:16 Myth #2: Muscle Mass
07:28 Myth #1: Crimping
10:09 What myths should we tackle next?
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 122
www.hoopersbeta.com/library/d...
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
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#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy

[@HoopersBeta]

Thanks to LMNT for sponsoring this video! Head to DrinkLMNT.com/HOOPERSBETA to get your free sample pack with any purchase! ➡What myths should we tackle next?? 🤔

[@davidtorres8396]

“Undersizing your climbing shoes is needed to push into higher grades.” “Stiff shoes don’t have enough sensitivity. You can ‘feel’ the rock better with softer shoes”. “You can’t have good skin and good calluses. Sanding or filing your skin is the worst thing you can do for your hands.”

[@chaosengine4597]

climbing is dangerous. everybody that I don't know in my gym should stop it.

[@fabrizioguzman4328]

Undersizing your shoes up to 2 sizes to climb harder

[@calfinbro]

I'm curious about the myths around weight and sending hard (v10+). I want to be light, but have muscle, AND energy. What are your thoughts on Intermittent Fasting and how that pertains to getting enough nutrition/having enough energy for a solid training/climbing session? What are your thoughts on the gains from Creatine vs. the increase in weight?

[@user-pm9tf7tz8r]

Something a heard, and I think is a myth - tendons and pulleys develop up to 16 - 17 years old. And if you start climbing late (like me) you can't go to high grades.

[@jeinhorn87]

As you obviously appreciate, crimping is an incredibly nuanced topic that has a lot of counter intuitive characteristics. For example, anecdotally, crimping injuries appear far more likely for people with significant upper body strength relative to their climbing experience (back, shoulders, arms, core) since they can transmit far higher loads much more quickly to the fingers. The issue here is these people can easily get to high grades on non-crimpy boulders by just climbing regularly, but then injure themselves by thinking all problems of the same grade are the same

[@charliexoxox]

happened to me that way, progressed on big stuff and strained my fdp on my first time trying 2-finger pockets :(

[@sweatfootm]

I grew up climbing where crimping everything meant you were pulling harder. I'm going on 30 years of climbing now. That means I trained as a kid full crimping on my door jambs at home doing pull ups. I developed pretty strong tendons in the process. Many I climb with are shocked at the things that I can crimp. When did I get my only finger injury? Pocket pulling. #fullcrimpgang

[@justchillin3492]

​@@sweatfootmWas it a pulley injury?

[@seth8933]

I'm applying to PT schools and love climbing, so I absolutely love your videos and how much you apply them to anatomy! It's refreshing to have reasoning based in science, especially in this relatively newer sport. Keep it up!

[@HoopersBeta]

Good luck with your applications and thanks for the support!

[@SeanDot]

You should get some more famous climbers to guest star to bump your profile. This channel deserves 100x the Subs. Keep doing what you’re doing, love it!

[@HoopersBeta]

Appreciate the support! Kind words like yours keep us going :) And that is a good idea too... ;)

[@marcchrys]

Thanks for the sensible logical full crimp advice. Your analogies were spot on. I'm only a mid-grade climber but full crimping has always been a big part of my climbing technique...I've been climbing 40 years and never had any finger issues.

[@HoopersBeta]

Thanks for sharing and we are glad you found the advice/analogies helpful! Stoked that you've been climbing for so long without issues too! That's awesome.

[@sweatfootm]

Rock on dude. I have a climbing age of 30+ years and we came of age when full crimping was THE thing to do. I hung on door jambs as a kid and did full crimp pullups as my only training because there wasn't any other training apparatus available. I developed an amazing bit of crimp strength if I do say so. My only injury from was pocket pulling. #fullcrimpgang

[@lucascostaflowescalada]

Awesome and funny as always! thanks for all the knowledge 👊🏼

[@HoopersBeta]

Thanks for watching!

[@NikGupta7]

Thanks so much for these videos, it's super helpful for someone like me who's just starting to get a bit more interested in progressing in climbing. Also really liked the pacing in this episode.

[@HoopersBeta]

Glad you found it helpful and thanks for the feedback!

[@jakelevi1996]

Hi Nik :)

[@NikGupta7]

@@jakelevi1996 haha hello Jake

[@debbypajerowski5690]

This channel is awesome! Thank you!!!

[@HoopersBeta]

Our pleasure!

[@Anb82051]

DPT student/climber here and I love your evidence based approach to explaining things and debunking myths despite the lack of evidence out there, while incorporating your opinion based on facts and logic. People love to get triggered with crimping, I’ve had two finger injuries but it was from not being warmed up enough or just straight up being stupid. Great video!

[@HoopersBeta]

Thanks for the support and the comment! Much appreciated. Sorry to hear about your injuries but hey if anything they are good learning experiences :) Happy climbing!

[@Randomize12345666]

Congrats on the sponsorship with lmnt, I'm taking it from you that it's a quality product if youre promoting them

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you! The raspberry salt may be my favorite flavor (but I love raspberries so there's bias there hah). I definitely enjoy using LMNT but always keep in mind individual factors matter including your diet and training :)

[@goldenpantsv1472]

Idky but gummy bear clip had me dying 😭

[@HoopersBeta]

hah I love my gummy bears ;)

[@kurtsmith6971]

Well I've definitely hit my plateau, just climb isn't working anymore, time to get into the training room, thanks

[@HoopersBeta]

You got this!

[@mostlyimportant4212]

I think the main problem with "just climb" is that climbing includes an incredible variety of movements, but since there's so many, most will appear too rarely to actually train them. Sometimes you need to have really strong shoulders for a short move, but it's such a rare movement that you won't get that strength from just climbing

[@HoopersBeta]

Agreed, that is definitely a good reason! As Dan mentions in the video, there are a lot of positions in climbing that are intermittent and not necessarily safely repeatable or overloadable, so trying to train those positions by climbing becomes impractical for one reason or another. -Emile

[@hannesmeier8625]

I still would give any beginner the advice just climb for the first few years - for completely different reasons. It's all true what youre saying but you must not forget, that all the connective tissues (what you mentioned in the crimping part) and stuff take a lot of time to get strong aswell. So if an average young man starts climbing, especially bouldering, and combines his climbing sessions with a lot of power training, he will probably get injuries at exactly those points in the fingers or in the shoulders, simply because he pulls too hard on the holds. You dont know when it's going to happen. It just snatches and you have a bowstring Finger. Thats why I really recommend to start with a few years of only climbing, get your body used to this kind of stress and never ever climb into pain. I hardly do any sort of power training and I wasnt injured from climbing since I started about 14 years ago. And even without training pullups I managed to climb 7b+ in fontainebleau and 8a in my gym.

[@1AmTheStig]

@@HoopersBeta I even think specific training is great for absolute beginners! I found when I first started that pinches were basically impossible to hold, where the other people I was climbing with found them trivial. Turns out that pinching is really not a movement that average people do regularly. Literally just 1-2 weeks of specific training for pinch strength (5 minutes compressing a rubber ball against a desk with my thumb every day) had my pinch actually become a strength rather than a huge weakness, and suddenly I could try far more climbs than I could before.

[@alexgalays910]

Amazing video. I'm bad at crimping but it's been a while since I've been injured by it and try to progressively overload by using this grip every session (not like I have a choice, really)

[@mcbo1015]

Hi doctor, You might not believe it but I have never missed any of Your materials... You guys doin a great work... Especially for peoeple from all this countries where climbing is still crawling. Do You have any plans for a episode about planning and programming training for climbers? In my opinion there is as many approaches as coaches on the planet. I have my head full of knowledge about all this cycles, mezocycles, blocks of traing and stuff. But I recon after an episod from Hooper everything would be more clear. I do know this is very individual. Yes I know personal trainer is very good idea. But imagine there is plenty of intermediate climbers who know a lot about feeling their own body, recovering, endurance, power , strenght, power endurance, about their limitations, weakneses, avoiding and preventing injuries etc... We know where we are and we know where we would like to be in one year : ) And we all want to be able to programm our training sessions, macro plans micro plans... I mean that would be a massive episode : ) for all of us Thank You mate

[@meganh7526]

Ok, I'm only partway through the video but I'm shocked about the water myth. I do not have great cardio and I'm chronically dehydrated because I just forget to drink water, and being mindful about increasing my water intake prior to and during any kind of strenuous physical activity is the difference between a terrible day and a good day. Maybe the people recommending that are in much better shape than I am overall, but I'm also inclined to believe that believing that depriving yourself of the second most vital resource for survival will make you perform better there might be some denial at work.

[@chaosengine4597]

I also never heard this in practise. Food intake? Yes, ppl (no no, it was not me in the past) deliberately skip that....

[@santi_super_stunts2573]

When I was in cross country me and some other team mates thought “let’s run and not rely on water” so when we race at the meets we won’t be needing water cause there are no breaks”

[@leeprice133]

Unless you constantly *feel* thirsty, chronic dehydration is actually not that prevalent. The idea that everyone needs to be drinking two litres of supplementary water a day isn't that well-supported as far as I'm aware, and a lot of advice ignores the water you take in from food. That said, you really should hydrate before, during and after exercise.

[@benja_mint]

It's fairly we'll established that the whole "drink lots of water" thing is a myth. The "Adam ruins everything" channel did a video explaining the source of the myth a few years back. Edit: obviously drink some water, don't get dehydrated, just also don't feel pressured to drink if you don't feel thirsty

[@scafx08]

After Climbin two to three times a week for almost half a year without external training i started having low amounts of elbow pain towards the end or after the session. I always put it on "climbing too hard" but i asked the coach of my toprope-course and he explained to me that training your antagonist-muscles is important and that this might be a source for my elbow pain. So i started adding a small gym session after each climb to focus on these specific issues. Because, as much as i hate plain workouts (thats why i go climbing, because its fun and excercise) i dont want to compromise my health and progress on such things. I dont wanna start going all in to maybe sometimes climb 8as, but enjoying my journey without any injuries or painissues sounds like smart idea

[@uhoh007]

Someday you might help us with Quadratus Lumborum release, and preventative strategy. Thanks for great videos.

[@HoopersBeta]

We certainly do have a back pain vid on the list, we just haven't had a chance with so many good ideas out there. But thanks for commenting/sharing! It helps to have that feedback to bump those ideas back up in the priority list :)

[@tosrn]

Great video! Random question but what watch are you wearing? Garmin something?

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it. The watch is a Garmin Fenix 6 Pro Solar

[@paulojacobsilva3018]

This is actually good content. And it can be longer. There are more myths. There is very little material about cross-training for people who: (1) don't have so much time (2) don't have access to climbing gyms (3) enjoy climbing but are not skinny wiry kids (4) simply grow up into big boys, etc. Btw, I crimped for ...15 years. I had a complete "pulley system rupture" in a freak accident at work with a heavy object and bad handle. If I had a stable crimp in place, my pulleys would still be fine. They were re-constructed surgically, sadly not very well. I learned the hard way that very few surgeons are actually good at this.

[@EricBurbeck]

"team kid flashes your project"...love it :P

[@DeadlyFeet413]

The biggest thing I agree with is that running is, in fact, bad for you and you shouldn’t do it.

[@HoopersBeta]

Haha hey running is great for some people! But I do find it rather miserable. - Emile

[@sknygames]

I had a lot of pain in my A2 3 weeks ago. I took 3 weeks off from climbing but continued with calisthenics, weight lifting, grip training with calisthenics and weights and scraping. I went back on Saturday and did a good hour. As a V3'er I sent all on my first try two v2, two v3, one v4, attempted a v4 twice and a v5 once. There were lots of crimps on these and I felt just fine, no pain afterwards either. I usually climb 3-4 hours at a time, but I didn't want to overdue it. After sending the problems, I was able to still climb down, finding a new route on the way down, something which before this injury I was never able to do because I'd be too sore and tired by the time I completed it to the top.

[@mattsmitt00]

Some potential myths/rules I've heard since starting climbing this year and would love to know if there's truth to them: - Don't even touch a hangboard for your first year - Campus boards are higher risk for injuries than hangboards - Too much time on training boards will make you forget good technique - It's ok to climb with sore muscles, but it's never ok to climb with sore tendons/fingers - A regular collagen supplement will make a difference for tendon healing and strengthening and help prevent injury - That V6 I finally did was actually a very soft V6

[@HoopersBeta]

Great suggestions, thanks! We will definitely add those to the list. And as for the last one, I’d just like to confirm that it was indeed a very solid V6, not soft, and you’re crushing it 💪💪

[@Mylada]

True. Many of the best outdoor boulderers almost exclusively train on a board (e.g. Aidan Roberts). Also, collagen doesnt do shit. Gets broken down in to amino acids like any other protein.

[@ivantolkachev4808]

Does collagen not help?

[@Mylada]

@@ivantolkachev4808 Its no different than a poor protein supplement. You body breaks it down to amino acids and those get absorbed. Take 20 g of whey or soy protein and youll do better

[@ivantolkachev4808]

@@Mylada there are some papers that dietary collagen together with vitamin c help accelerate soft tissue recovery. Of course all proteins break down into aminos but the amino profile may matter, especially if there is a need for bioavailability during the period of peak stimulus response.

[@TheXeeman]

lol whenever im dehydrated i climb way worse.. no energy etc.. drink the water guys

[@HoopersBeta]

Agreed! I certainly pull harder when I am hydrated. My body / tendons appreciate it.

[@ethanr2000]

"...your only stopping point is pain..." Have you got any guidance on how to know when the healthy time to stop crimping is? I feel like I'm guilty of pushing it too long and have battled with finger tweaks for the last year. Would love to know your approach!

[@HoopersBeta]

Yeah absolutely. There are lot's of tricks ranging from simple to quite complex. Example: set yourself an attempt limit on harder climbs or ones that you know place a lot of strain/stress on your fingers. Usually it's the "rule of 7" but you can modify that as you see fit! If it's a super hard crimp on your left hand, perhaps limit to 4-5 attempts for example. On the more complicated route, track your training and finger strength and/or track the routes you climb by logging them! This way you can monitor for dips in strength or patterns in your climbing. Finally, you can also consider changing your climbing schedule to include more light/technique days rather than just try hard days. Hope some of those ideas help!

[@littleDclimber]

Hey! Do you have any videos or suggestions on Labrum surgery recovery?? I had a Bankart repair 6 weeks ago and wondering what a normal timeline is for climbers to return to the wall (climbing V0-V1) along with climbers return to full strength (V10+ range). Thanks! Love your videos!

[@HoopersBeta]

There's no researched standardization for that and rather should be a decision made determined by multiple sources including but not limited to: your physician, your PT, return to sport tests, and even return to sport questionnaires. All of that information combined will give you the most applicable / realistic approach to your return to climbing. I know that's not a direct answer but I hope it helps at least!

[@littleDclimber]

@@HoopersBeta Thanks man!

[@Mike-oz4cv]

Labrum of the hips or shoulder? For hips it can take anywhere between 1 month and 5 months until you can climb *anything* again. With hips there is also a relatively high risk and rate of iliopsoas tendonitis and other follow-up over-use injuries after arthroscopic surgery which can set you back for months.

[@Spackhead1]

i think the only climbers who believe that 'just climb' isnt working are those who arent making an effort to learn from each session

[@Doomer_Optimist]

Him crimping the slopers and pinches on the spray wall made me lol a bit

[@RemyBustani]

I literally never considered that the bones got bigger as well

[@HoopersBeta]

It was really interesting when I originally read that as well!

[@arthurrunyan5785]

@@HoopersBeta isn't that obvious it would? I'm sure many other bones and tendons are proportionally larger as well. The muscles pull on the tendons the tendons pull on the bone. Over time they increase, just like muscles. However, it takes significantly longer for bones than tendons, and tendons longer than bones.

[@HoopersBeta]

Typical bone thickening occurs with multi directional axial loads. Think... Soccer players will have thicker bones than joggers, joggers thicker than walkers, walkers thicker than sedentary people. Since soccer players create load in multiple directions that plays a larger role in the thickening of the bone. When a muscle/tendon pulls on a bone, it can force that anchor point to reinforce itself to sustain the loads, but those are small points in our fingers and the load is different, rather than it being an axial, multi directional load, it is more so resisting bend from one angle. So, it still makes sense (as you mentioned) that it would thicken to resist that load, but still interesting just how much it can thicken in some people. Just goes to show 1) how cool the body is and how great it is at adapting to imposed demands and 2) how strong climbers are to trigger such a change :)

[@cern1999sb]

I've never heard that dehydration would help in any way. When I'm climbing hard I frequently drink water between attempts because I feel I can push myself harder when I have done. I've also only heard the "just climb to get better at climbing" as advice for people starting out. Normally that's given as advice to stop people injuring themselves on a fingerboard or campus board. In your first year, so long as you are consistent you will probably progress a lot by just climbing. After this it is sensible to bring in other activities, such as hangboarding to continue progression, but in a controlled way, so as not to injure yourself.

[@MrChaluliss]

I really have seen too many comments saying to NEVER full crimp at the gym and to ONLY use it outdoors. What dogma people are happy to shout about on the internet lmao. I don't climb outside much because its just much more time consuming for where I live, and I have slowly learned how much full crimping is acceptable for me by actually experimenting in my sessions. Goofy to me how folks will prescribe the same ideology to everyone without a second thought.

[@HoopersBeta]

Great point. It is really interesting how quickly someone can take their own personal experience and claim it is LAW or the ONLY way. I'm happy that you were able to do your own experiments and find a level of crimping that works well for you! Thanks for sharing/commenting.

[@16m49x3]

I guess you could say that you should only use it when you need it. And not do it too much. If they only try hard outdoors, and indoors is just training to climb outdoors for them, then maybe that's why they only use it outdoors. Personally I like to only use it when I can't do something without it.

[@MrChaluliss]

@@16m49x3 Same. Only if I actually need the extra stability / leverage granted by a full crimp will I use it. I think it may be a hinderance to increasing your half/open crimp strength to rely on the full crimp too often anyway. (my totally unmeasured subjective results suggest this is true, as by intentionally limiting full crimp I have become noticeably more stable on half and open crimps)

[@sirhenrystalwart8303]

The first one (dynamic movement == bad technique) surprised me. I have books over 20 years old at this point describing the nuances of the deadpoint and how it's often more efficient. Chris Sharma, often credited with bring dynamism to the forefront of climbing, as been showing us the way for 25 years now. And nearly all professional climbers at this point have a more or less dynamic style. Honnold might the only notable exception, but he's not exactly famous for sending hard. I guess all of that combined makes it strange to me that this myth still persists and I'm fascinated by the sociological dynamics which make climbers in 2023 still pursue an aesthetic from the 80s and 90s.

[@minihjalte]

What sort of off-the-wall exercises are best to train? I assume strength, mostly focused on the back, core, shoulders and arms. But also some explosiveness? Is there potentially a program with a focus on off-the-wall training for climbers?

[@HoopersBeta]

The best approach will always be to individualize it as much as possible, which will depend on many factors such as personal background with sports/training. With that being said, yes off the wall training could focus on shoulder and back strength, as well as posterior chain training, finger strength, and power (explosiveness). There are many resources out there including videos we have made that have some routines you can do for off-the-wall training but again even that may need to be individualized for each person.

[@vladicatuna]

It's up to you to find your best training routine, you could get inspired by Hoop's video in which he and Anna rate exercises based on how good (and why) those are for climbing. I also recommend you Hoseok Lee's climbing training plan (also found on YT). Based on those two, you can make your own training plan. My personal training plan includes pull-ups & push-ups(+variations), deadhangs, fingerboard sessions, gripping pinch blocks, squats & lunges, weight lifting aimed at biceps, triceps and forearm muscles and core exercises (avoid regular crunches, emphasize on Mountain Climbers, Russian Twists, Heel Touch Crunches, those lateral muscles are more important than the 6 pack itself). I've started climbing from 0 in March 2022, so i have about 10 months of climbing at the moment, with 3/4 sessions per week. Currently I'm breaking V6s after I've hit a plateau at V5 that made me realize I have to get into strength training as well.

[@zacharylaschober]

For many of my clients, small additions in strength training as part of a warming period often see significant gains. Depends on the person, but most would benefit from shoulder external rotation work and a something for the lower back. Good news is this will decrease the risk of injury both in the immediate session and over time as these areas strengthen with little energy and time investment.

[@marks3440]

As Jason points out climbing is a pretty new sport - I feel like a lot of the best content for working out is in channels that focus on things like Olympic lifting and MMA - Garage Strength and Phil Daru are 2 of my favorites. The exercises aren’t always applicable (often they are) but the concepts behind training are really useful. Also don’t forget to add in some mobility and flexibility work to your routine.

[@Truthseeker88888]

Why is Team Kid Flashes Your Proj so accurate?? 😮‍💨 These high schoolers at my gym are too good! At least I can occasionally flash a 5.11+ or 5.12-. That is enough to keep me coming back for more! Bouldering is another story 😅

[@HoopersBeta]

Haha "comparison is the thief of joy" says the high schooler as they walk by trying to keep you calm ;)

[@denlolify]

How do you makes sure you are training for strength and not hypertrophy, and how does strength endurance fit into this?

[@HoopersBeta]

Research regarding Hypertrophy has made many leaps and bounds in recent years and as such some guidelines are changing, but as a general guide strength training is typically done with higher weights and a lower rep count and hypertrophy is loosely the opposite, higher volume (sets and reps) with lower weight and the "goal" with hypertrophy training is to find fatigue. Example: if you do 12 reps of a bicep curl with 10# and feel no fatigue, this may not be strength or hypertrophy training. But if you do 25 reps with 10# and that 26th rep just won't happen because you're too fatigued, that can be considered hypertrophy training. On the flip side if you stop at 5 reps with a 30# weight and it's not due to fatigue but simply because it's just too heavy/hard to move for a 6th rep, that's more related to strength training. Keep in mind, these are on a spectrum of sorts and are not *completely* independent from one another

[@denlolify]

@@HoopersBeta aha thanks alot, am I right in assuming that hypertrophy and strength endurance are the same as both require high reps and going to fatigue?

[@zacharylaschober]

Disagreeing slightly here, the strength sets (high int low rep) see similar hypertrophic gains and so called hypertrophy sets (low int high rep) but the difference tends to be when we account for total set volume. Sets at low rep ranges tend to be hard to repeat during a session and require multiple warming sets whereas higher rep ranges are easier to complete and have more working sets. Mechanical tension is the primary driver of muscle growth, but if you cannot put the muscle under tension for long enough time you won’t see as much growth. This is a nice benefit for climbers.

[@dark-o]

Full Crimp All In💪 or no Crimp at all

[@poeplijer]

Crimping itself is not dangerous in my opinion. However, the accidents that can happen while crimping, e.g., a foot slipping away which can lead to a sudden full weight on your fingers, fingers slipping away except one, which can lead to full weight on one finger etc. are the things that make crimping a bit more dangerous. The more you do it, the better you get at avoiding these problems, so I guess it is also a bit of experience, but I have seen it happen to very good climbers.

[@HoopersBeta]

Fair! I would add that I've also seen FDP strains and other sorts of injuries occur in that exact same situation you describe (foot slip), but while in an open/drag handed position, but it's just brushed off as "eh it was just because my foot slipped", no one is subsequently screaming out that open hand/drag positions are terrible. Crimping definitely has a stigma around it and even if it is the fault of the foot slipping, it still seems to circle back to "crimping is dangerous".

[@poeplijer]

@@HoopersBeta true!

[@Mike-oz4cv]

I’ve torn two pulleys without full crimping and without a foot slipping. In both cases I was trying to shift my center of gravity to the other foot while pulling with full strength on a small-ish hold in a half crimp position. So this sample size 1 experiment says that full crimping or feet slipping are not necessary for pulley injuries.

[@velunara]

"Just climb to get better" made me feel like I was bad when I didn't get better. Please give your beginner friends plenty of advice, even if they're strong. I had to learn most of the basics on KZbin

[@m_sedziwoj]

7:55 so you misunderstanding most of people, or at last I think so, because pulleys injury is common problem, at last people I know most have it, and some never fully recover, but and is big but as all other human parts, pulleys become stronger with time. My usual advice for people which never climb is to not use climbing board for one year, ofc it is not to the day, but around, and in this first year it most likely would not need specialized trening, but more climbing. Later, I think is good to use, but I still saying I would avoid crimping while trening, not that not use at all, but this technic is putting more stress on pulley, and that injuries are common even in multiyear climbers, better not use if not needed, but as you would say, if you don't use at all, you would not know how to use when needed, but when I see people crimping on claiming board not to train this technic, but because they can't hold it normally... It is good to know this technic, but people are overusing it, and as tapping helping with training with injured it is never best thing to have injury. Other points I agree and I would add one more for specialized training, antagonistic muscles, because if they are too weak it creating problems. BTW about pulleys I would not have so strong opinion, if I would not have contact with so many people which have big problems with them, and even have them break (cut -> tendon pulling on skin because is not hold in place), I have personally few times problem with them, even after many years of climbing, but tapping, few weeks of rest from training and I go back to action, so I don't think is as big problem in many cases too, but why new climber should do something which make injury which don't give him any benefits? Oh, one more thing "joints", you never mention them, it is not common problem, but they can be overloaded, and if nothing is done, it ending with degenerations and other problems, my friend have it, and too late she try do something, so she would have it for rest of her life problem with it. EDIT: yes, I wrote this comment before you continue in 9:30+ but I leave as it is. EDIT2: climbing board => hangboard

[@michalnowak2181]

thx

[@dannyCOTW]

Bro, driving IS dangerous. I think a good follow up to this episode would be an analysis of the most common climbing injuries and WHY people keep get them so often.

[@HoopersBeta]

Good idea! What do you think are the most common climbing injuries?

[@dannyCOTW]

@@HoopersBeta the things that come to mind are the injuries that require a long time off to heal; finger pulley, tendinitis, concussion (!), and then wrist, shoulder, and ankles. I have the privilege of not being in allied healthcare, nor prone to injury, so I'm probably not the best source here. But, when I hear people stopped climbing or took a year off, these are some of the reasons.

[@tillyjane6531]

Open handing is more painful for me than crimping. I feel like my bones are going to come apart when I'm open handing whereas when I'm crimping it just feels like my fingers are hyperextending. Half crimp is most comfortable for me but I can't get as much power from it

[@lovebouldering]

Hello very clever and easy to understand, use common sense and ask professionals if you are unsure. Bachelor's Degree in Physical Activity and Sport Sciences and nutricion. Always up to learn and talk. Thanks that also was fun.

[@HoopersBeta]

Thanks for sharing and glad that you enjoyed it!

[@rockiesbouldering]

Would love to hear whether dehydration is directly related to cramps - specifically forearm/extensor cramps. And - whether pickle juice can prevent this. Seriously!

[@sophia8900]

Dehydration is directly related to cramps; there are a ton on studies on it. Anything with water and electrolytes will help and picklejuice does have water. However is it better than just water is the question. It seems that a little research suggests that it has a lot of electrolytes. Especially vinegar based juice.

[@SanityDoesNotSell]

We got a variety of guys in my crew. We have a pinch guy, a slab guy, and me the crimp guy. When properly conditioned, you can certainly crimp no problem, given the same care you take to not get injured in other things. You can full crimp all day if you're ready for it.

[@HoopersBeta]

Sounds like a fun crew! "Hey how did you do that move" "Oh I just pinched the heck out of it" "What, that's not possible, you have to full crimp that, for sure!" hah

[@gamotousername]

Climbing down is the safest way down the wall. Dont use hangboard until after 2 years of climbing. Dont climb with bent arms. The No1 advice for begginers.

[@HoopersBeta]

Good ones! I especially like the hangboard and bent arm one. I sometimes like to imagine people climbing solely with straight arms and it's comical.

[@illegitimate0]

If dynamic climbing was sloppy climbing, you wouldn't see pros at IFSC climbing dynamically the whole time.

[@faeevergreen9840]

I am very double jointed and crimps tend to put too much pressure on the first joint in my fingers. Is this because I haven't trained up enough or is this because I have hypermobility and need to be cautious?

[@HoopersBeta]

If you are a bit hypermobile it's a good idea to be a bit more cautious with your programming (volume, intensity), but you can still build resiliency if you program it correctly. So, it may be something that you want to train but just be cautious with. Our bodies are pretty amazing in their abilities to adapt, as long as we give them enough time to do so :)

[@jeremyredd4232]

I've never heard "don't full crimp ever" from a high-level climber. I have heard that training full crimps on a hangboard is bad risk to reward. Is that still a reasonable statement?

[@HoopersBeta]

I would agree that I've also never heard a high-level climber make that statement as they know how valuable it is on small holds :) I would say that in a sense, you could make it even safer on a hangboard because you can control for so many variables, whereas while climbing you have a lot more uncertainty. The problem is usually the introduction of this position (on a hangboard) without a reduction elsewhere, aka you're adding intensity and volume to training without reducing it anywhere else.

[@jeremyredd4232]

@Hooper's Beta that makes sense. Would full crimp sub max hangs with BFR be as or more useful than half crimp (that's mostly the only hangboard I do because of the low load)?

[@Johnny_Cash_Flow]

I heard that you can prevent that team kid from flashing your project by using one simple trick: taking a baseball bat to his kneecaps. I think I saw the trick on TikTok and it seemed pretty effective. Is there any legitimacy to this technique?

[@HoopersBeta]

I think we can all agree that anything you see on TikTok MUST be true

[@j.l.5966]

“Just Climb” definitely works! If you’re climbing a ladder.

[@Perrseus]

I've been training full crimping for over 6 months and still can't hang off any sized edge with it 😥 contrast to my half crimp which I can hang with like 80lb...

[@HoopersBeta]

You may need to use a different metric to track your strength improvements rather than just hanging body weight off an edge, but also be patient and don't rush to meet your goal :) If you're using a different edge size for each grip that will definitely impact how much weight you can add, also.

[@AceRanger20]

I’m a low mid grade climber, and have been climbing for 6 years. I’ve already highly inflamed an A2 pulley and mildly torn the same one a few years later. Everything but the crimp one, I fully agree with. The crimp section is very nuanced, so it’s not as simple as described. I’m a fan of technical and crimpy climbs, due to it meshing with my style. Both of my pulley injuries were from crimps, but not necessarily because it was a dangerous hold. First one was during a climbing comp, overcommitted to a bad move. Second was trying to qualify for a comp, hand foot match on a low crimp and put too much force through my fingers. The common denominator for both was that I put excessive force through my fingers, which can happen with any hold type. But this is what causes the full crimp to be a dangerous hold type to train or use often indoors. The force you can generate is vastly superior to the normal half crimp, which is where you can get into trouble easily. Half crimp does not have a lock, so too much force will open your hand up and you lose the hold. Full crimp has the thumb that will lock the position and allow you to pull harder than you can, it will allow you to pull more weight than your tendons can handle. I refuse to full crimp inside, especially while training. I rarely use it outside, more often opting to do what I call a pseudo-full crimp (thumb being next to the fingers on the hold instead of wrapping over the fingers if the hold allows it). It increases the load you can handle a little while also not locking everything in place. But due to my style, I’m more often than not half crimping or open crimping during training/indoor climbing sessions so I’ve been working my tendons to sustain higher loads slowly over time. That said, I’m not doing many insanely strong or dynamic moves off of the outdoor crimps. It’s more statically holding a position and adjusting my feet. So mileage may vary with that in mind. That said, I could be completely wrong. This is just what I’ve put together in my time climbing, I think it should at minimum be discouraged early on in people’s climbing journey (similar to hangboarding) until their tendons have strengthened enough to start handling the intense loads.

[@LiamRappaport]

8:33 are those pinecones??? What kind? I want one!

[@HoopersBeta]

Not sure the species but they are in the Mt. San Jacinto, California, area :)

[@LiamRappaport]

@@HoopersBeta Thanks!

[@marcbecker1431]

Driving IS dangerous!

[@arthurrunyan5785]

Wouldn't gummy bears be terrible carbs? High glycemic? Or is that better during exercise? Seems to he a lot of different information on the subject.

[@HoopersBeta]

Traditionally high glycemic is used for during exercise as it is digested and absorbed faster meaning it can create more readily available sugars that your body uses for exercise. Typically only needed / used in longer sporting events, not for hour long training or anything like that.

[@larryseibold4287]

@@HoopersBeta and maybe they have gelatin for the tendons? note: Always bite the heads off first :)

[@HoopersBeta]

Eh... technically the collagen in the gummy bears could be useful for something, but probably not in the way we'd like (plus dosage will probably be wayyy too small to be relevant). Won't stop me from eating them though 😁. We have a full video about collagen if you're interested

[@arthurrunyan5785]

@@HoopersBeta how about vegetarian suggestions for collagen? We need it the most!!!

[@cwehden]

I crimp as little as possible, I think it's the best guidance if you don't need to crimp why would you? If you need to crimp here and there on a few moves during a session go ahead, I see this as the best guidance. Training the half crimp as much as possible to get it strong means you can lean on crimps here and there as needed but your default grip is more open.

[@zacharylaschober]

When you need a tool, use the tool, and grip positions are tools. Full crimping every edge limits movement around the wrist, expends more energy, and occludes more bloodflow, but no grip allows for near the use of an incut edge including our ability to pull ourselves into the wall and pull ourselves through the wall. Crimps are valuable.

[@JohnSmith-uk7gy]

Because if you only ever crimp when you "need it", you are only full crimping at the absolute maximum effort, and without being used to the load... which is exactly how you get injured. The only way to prepare your body for handling loads like that is to expose yourself to lower loads gradually. A full crimp isn't simply "half crimp but harder", the tendons are loaded in a different way and will be injury prone if they are not prepared to be loaded in that position - so you can't just train half crimps and pull out a hard full crimp randomly without risk. Also, full crimping isn't inherently more energy intensive. There are moves I can make with a half crimp, but which are far more stable and controlled with a full crimp. Even if my fingers are under more load, it can make the movement more efficient overall to be in a full crimp over a half, on certain moves.

[@zacharylaschober]

@@JohnSmith-uk7gy hence why I noted “every move” cause there are tons of grips which take less energy since they rely more on friction and further occlude less bloodflow thereby allowing more oxygen for atp.

[@nbka8rs]

algogogogo

[@SnowmansApartment]

i think i‘ll hang this on my wall 9:38

[@HoopersBeta]

💪 sounds like a good idea to me

[@Noshuas]

5:35 New KZbin profile pic???

[@HoopersBeta]

haha good idea! :)

[@oranjebeer6637]

2:51

[@rainggoji2072]

Do we really need more plastic to drink electrolytes when a salt and some food would provide the same. ;_;

[@HoopersBeta]

I won't speak directly on behalf of the company but I'm sure what they would say in this instance is that the amount of the different minerals is what matters. Just drinking salt may not give you an appropriate ratio of sodium, potassium, and magnesium, and as such may not be as effective. Also, depending on your diet, you may not be getting much of that at all (or perhaps just not enough).

[@oranjebeer6637]

3:28

[@Phayze101]

Take a b-complex or nutritional yeast before climbing.

[@HoopersBeta]

I haven't heard that one!

[@SnowmansApartment]

ah yes, malignant.. i do know what this word means

[@Martin-zo7en]

honk honk crimp police has arrived and deleted your internet

[@HoopersBeta]

😭😭🚓🚨👮

[@rafaelsanna96]

LOL how the fuck can someone say they never full crimp? I've been climbing for over 10 yers, since i was 16, I climbed v10, I awalys full crimp, and im ok still climbing, just send a v9 this week, and full crimped all the way up on this v9 lol, its just like the video said, you just have to know >when and how< to full crimp, if u never full crimp u will be stuck under v4 climbing super weak forever.

[@coolpeopleit]

Danergous?

[@jonathanrossddsmhs1271]

Never heard dehydration = send myth. Then I saw the LMNT ad after it. 🤔

[@HoopersBeta]

Ads are how we’re able to still pay our bills while spending over a hundred hours a month making these videos for free for anyone to watch. We only represent products we like and think are useful for our viewers, and we would never compromise the integrity of our information for payment.

[@bluechamp1527]

Tbh, I still think "just climb" is the best advice to give. Usually, once someone climbs at a level where just climbing isn't enough anymore, he knows it already with or without any advice. On the other hand, people over-evaluating their technical level that would benefit from the advice is crazy more common (and that includes many climbing influencers out there)

[@HoopersBeta]

Thanks for chiming in! I'd posit this: Who is to say once people reach the level where they need supplemental training (assuming it's that simple to determine), that most of them would be aware of this without anyone telling them, as you imply, and would then be able to act on that? I would hesitate to make such a large generalization. If that were the case, I'd argue we would have far less climbers plateauing who are "just climbing," which is a phenomenon I believe is much easier and more common to observe. -Emile

[@Mike-oz4cv]

IMHO the question is not at what point in time you plateau without supplemental training, but at what point it can be beneficial. Not just to improve what you can climb but also to prevent injuries.

[@HoopersBeta]

I agree that is absolutely a factor; a plateau is not the only indicator you may benefit from supplemental training, nor is a plateau a perfectly accurate indicator. There's a lot to be said for "prehab" or "injury prevention" training as well for many climbers. - Emile

[@bluechamp1527]

@@HoopersBeta hi Emile, thanks for taking the time to answer your subscribers ! My impression is, for someone in good shape, the first few plateaus we face are technical. By the time a physical plateau happens, one should realize intuitively the approaches he used to solve the earlier plateaus don't work anymore. However I must admit I also make the assumption that people have understood how to solve technical plateaus in the first place. Either by finding good resources, like your videos with Daniel, or by getting live feedback from someone experienced. And this assumption is probably wrong, in that most people just climbing don't do that 😁 You are right on the injury prevention part. This type of physical training, unlike training with plateaus in mind, is always beneficial regardless of level

[@paulgaras2606]

Chocolate = sends

[@oanasimon1983]

"climbing dynamically is bad form"?? Who ever said that? I love dynamic climbing, without it I couldn't be at the level I'm at. Plus is so fun and exciting.

[@HoopersBeta]

Lots of people try to avoid dynamic climbing or think of it as “moving as quickly as possible”

[@isaakvandaalen3899]

I regularly pull 5-7 hour indoor boulder sessions and lemme say that if I didnt eat a meal and drink plenty of water I would be d e a d.

[@TheMegaMrMe]

15$ for a day pass?? Kinda expensive bruv. America is costly

[@HoopersBeta]

Cost of living is definitely different here (depending on which country you're from) but $15 is actually pretty great if you consider the area and what most gyms charge :)

[@deci]

lol $15 is cheap in California. it's usually about $30

[@Spearit578]

Gyms in my city are around 23 CAD

[@Randomize12345666]

@@Spearit578 yeah but that's not even real money

[@robertmiller4264]

$30 here in Los Angeles..

[@JRosie12]

I usually love your videos, and there's some great information in this one, but it's not super cool to joke about triggering like you did at the start (and repeated in the Crimping section). Joking about triggers and triggering perpetuates the false notion that they're associated with someone being overly sensitive and further stigmatizes and diminishes PTSD (which is associated with triggers). I'm sure that's not what you were trying to do, so I hope you reconsider saying something like that in the future.

[@HoopersBeta]

I appreciate the comment and glad you typically like our content! And I am glad you agree that it was certainly not our intent to perpetuate any stigma related to PTSD or offend anyone in that manner. I would like your input on the fact that I don't think we were actually joking about it triggering people. In fact, we receive a backlash from people (who even call us bad names) frequently when we discuss how it can be done safely. So, I don't think we actually intended that as a joke. But are you saying that we shouldn't use the word triggering at all because in this content it isn't applicable and diminishes the value of the word for people who are legitimately suffering from triggers/PTSD? I think that's what your stating, but I'd rather ask than assume :)

[@JRosie12]

@@HoopersBeta It's horrible that y'all get called bad names just for giving professional advice (for free, no less!), and I'm sorry people subject you to that. Re: the use of "trigger," sorry for assuming you were using it jokingly! I do think it still conflates people being overly sensitive and lashing out at you with people who have legitimate PTSD/SUD/etc triggers, so in my opinion it's not the right word to use here. Obviously the common use of the word has kind of transformed in the last few years to be less specific, but it's so often used spuriously or with intent to insult that it's got this really negative association. A lot of words to say, yeah basically you've got my meaning right! Though obviously in a talk about getting back to climbing after a traumatizing fall or injury or whatever, it definitely has a place

[@HoopersBeta]

Appreciate the response! That makes sense, thanks for sharing. I agree, it is tough as words and their meanings change over time. That's why I wanted to follow up because it's always interesting to learn more! But yes, definitely no negative intent placed behind the use of triggering for us in this video other than the factual event that people do have strong opinions brought forward when we bring up crimping :) And you're right, I'm sure a lot of those strong opinions are related to having a traumatizing injury or other.

[@mongoose1804]

I won’t lmnt is the worst tasting shit I ever had in my life

[@HoopersBeta]

haha oh no! What flavor(s) have you tried? I think the Raspberry salt is my favorite.

[@oranjebeer6637]

2:47