InMotion V8S not boring Quality Check

[@yanassi]

Really love WW breakdowns. No other reviewer does this. I don’t ride an euc, i’m currently a escooter rider, but i’m interested in the beauty of simplistic one wheels (with intelligent guts). I’m also an old guy and falling is no longer a strong suit. So, cutouts/overleaning foot pedal movements, unbalanced battery death, motherboard frying …all sound scary. Smart battery balancing is simply smart. But i’m watching euc’s grow, and it’s amazing. My possible interest is a lightweight (sub-50 lbs, staircases) intelligent euc that can do 25mph, 30 mile range, and unfortunately some suspension (old knees comes with my old body) is needed. I prefer the clean lines of these older styled round luggage euc’s rather than the one-wheeled go carts or mini naked sportbikes (sold my kawi zx10r in july’23) which is perfect to simply commute in city streets. One extra point, my apollo city pro’22 escooter has self-healing tires (one of my buy points) which seems to be perfect technology for all pev’s (meanwhile Slime and Armor-Dilloz will have to do).

[@Dennymolv]

the Nylonove pedals on the V8F/S are amazing! Absolutely the perfect pedals for this wheel

[@manstone0908]

Nice video,I have changed tire for my V8F once.

[@BigChiefWiggles]

This is a perfect "last mile commute" wheel, at only 30 pounds and with that shape its easy to load into a car or take with you on the subway and ride the rest of your commute. Its not a performance wheel, its a wheel you ride from your primary transport to your endpoint.

[@Rocksaplenty]

mcm5 prolly better overall

[@BigChiefWiggles]

@@Rocksaplenty that one is closer to 40 pounds, at that point might as well add a few more pounds and buy a Tesla 2 or 3

[@Ubeogesh]

@@Rocksaplenty gotway is a lamborghini, inmotion is a mercedes. The bit of extra performance and range is just not worth all the comfort and usability downgrades for me.

[@Siara013]

@@Ubeogesh what? but you have better comfort on gotway mostly because of pads and wider tires and what you mean by usability

[@Ubeogesh]

As others have already noticed, please NEVER, EVER advocate for proprietary screw heads - it is an anti-consumer practice that should be abolished. Just having a different screw head to give a cue that it should not be removed - that would be nice.

[@Ubeogesh]

The problem with cooling of V8 is not actually in the lack of a fan. The main bottleneck is heat transfer to the radiator. The MOSFETs are not bolted to the heatsink, they are just pressed onto it by the PCB. A nice upgrade would be to drill a few holes in the radiator, add threading and properly bolt in the MOSFETS

[@aubreygranner7220]

I hope you are mistaken about the balance BMS function. If there isn’t even a per series group over-voltage bleed resistor, this pack won’t last long at all. I have about 500 miles on my V8S (I assume 15-20 cycle count) and no noticeable pack voltage change but I always carefully charge to full each day before letting it rest overnight. This way it allows the bleed currents to do what little they can to balance the pack.

[@rcgldr]

I don't ride that much. I fully charge my V8F to 100% about once a week, just before a ride. Otherwise I keep it at around 62% (76 volts, 3.8 volts per cell). Some say to store at 50% (74 volts, 3.7 volts per cell), but the radio control community recommends 3.8 volts per cell. I have 560 miles on the V8F and 100% pack voltage is still the same, 83.6 volts.

[@LaggerSVK]

3:30 there is error. The pedal mechanism is such that the bottom screw should be fully tightened with thread lock. The end screws have some nylon washers that are responsible for the friction. So the pedal smoothness is defined by tightness of these screws. The problem is that the axle will get bend and everything will be harder and you will have to find your place for axle. Also you will have to think of to make the axle in the center before fully tightening the bottom screw. Anyway I love how easy it is to change tire on this wheel. Why all manufactures and models dont have it this easy. Its definitely possible. Also dont understand why the cables from motors need to be that long, you could easily take the cable from control board and have a connector near motor but you would need some IP rated connector and thats maybe the problem - costs.

[@privileguan9127]

Hopefully the exoskeleton construction of newer wheels like the Begode Master/EX20S will allow an easy tire change as well.

[@rcgldr]

The bottom screw is a set screw. It adjusts how much friction there is when moving pedals up and down. It should not be fully tightened, only enough to keep pedals from flopping up and down.

[@Greg_Davis]

Thanks for this, Adam! I hope I don't need to refer to this video any time soon for my own V8f, but it's good to have when I need it. Continue to stay safe in your part of the 🌍!

[@rogerunderhill4267]

The grip tape is entirely suitable for commuting imho. Fine for ordinary riders. My pedal rods are fine after four years (V10) 95kg. But i don’t do tricks or jump ;)

[@stephenhoover4095]

I bought a v8f last fall to cut down on walking around the farm. So far I've been amazed at the versatility of it and often carry toolboxes and even extension ladders around on it. Approx 300 miles on it and no major issues yet but I think the motor may soon need to be replaced since there is a pretty good clunk coming from it when when I switch from accelerating to decelerating or vice versa.

[@monowheeling]

I have and had such noises too (like a click-clunk) on a V8 and V8F but it hasn't so far lead to failure. On the other hand, I had two broken axles, most likely from dropping too many curbs.

[@yanassi]

@@monowheelinggood point, off curbs and some steps seems to be a normal travel happening. A stronger axle seems needed.

[@znek4288]

I use those stud v11 pedals on my sherman with extra spacers, feels amazing to ride on

[@BunnyslippersEUC]

🤪

[@dillonchai4148]

Hi could you explain how you removed the small flaps on the bottom of the outer plastic shell? I'm trying to change out my tire but I can't seem to get them off no matter how I try - some people said there's a notch in the little metal pin but I don't see one on mine. Thank you!

[@firstlast9813]

Day 2 of asking to do a head to head with the EX20S and the Master. Maybe a partial review

[@Ubeogesh]

8:29 why would you like more screws tho? also - cracks are dangerous because they will just make the shell loose and the wheel will become shaky or unstable. There should really be some washers to prevent cracking (highly recommended ez mod for any owner)

[@360portugal]

Hi, I need a video about V 12 tyre change.

[@thechumpsbeendumped.7797]

1:57 ouch! That was hard to watch and listen to...mainly because I've been there, done that and got the t-shirt.

[@MrJmk59]

hello ww, do you know me if the pedals for the v11 with hole like honeycomb, can work on v8f ?

[@Ubeogesh]

3:24 Please retract, this is an error. The screw at the bottom must be FULLY SCREWED IN. Tightness of the pedal folding is to be adjusted by the side screws, not bottom screw! The plastic pads on the sides of these side screws provide friction for holding the footplates, and you must not overtighten them This error is why it was hard for you to hammer out the pedal rod I made the same mistake on my old V10F and had this issue with new strong CrV pedal rods. But no such issues on my current V8F where I don't make this mistake.

[@pavlovskyyp8799]

The battery wont balance itself if you leave it on a charger for some time when it is at 100%?

[@mr_wrongway]

It won’t

[@Blox117]

@@mr_wrongway proof? show that the cells are unbalanced

[@yevhenii.n]

A minor note: pedal "tightness" is regulated by 2 side screws with plastic slider, not by bottom one! Bottom screw should be tightened properly.

[@rcgldr]

Wrong Way is correct, the bottom screw controls how easy it is to move pedals up or down.

[@yevhenii.n]

@@rcgldr plastic inserts on side screws are special sliders intended to ensure smooth sliding, whereas bottom screw is simple metal, if you don't tightened it you will get metal on metal friction and rough sliding, and need to constantly adjust.

[@Ubeogesh]

@@rcgldr WrongWay is not correct. This is error is why his rod was hard to extract. I wouldn't call it minor either

[@rcgldr]

@@Ubeogesh - look at the V8F teardown video (by EUCO), they completely remove the bottom "set" screw and the 2 side screws, but still have to use hammer and rod to get the pin out. Note the V8F has changed since that video was made. The two outer shell screws are located lower and no longer blocked by pedals, similar to the V8S. My V8F (August 2021) has the lower outer shell screws like the V8S.

[@Ubeogesh]

@@rcgldr their teardown has nothing to do with the argument that the bottom screw has to be fully tightened. The rod must not move when you un/fold the footplates.

[@NeoVdV]

Why did they take this version S so fast out of production !?

[@osimmac]

7:18 they have passive cell balancing. i think you meant active cell balancing. every battery pack with multiple cells needs some sort of balancing system otherwise cells will diverge and overcharge and start fires.

[@mr_wrongway]

They don’t. They have a limit on max voltage of any given cell set but no balancing. Just to be clear I asked inMotion about it too. They say no passive balancing

[@LaggerSVK]

@@mr_wrongway I am confused. I mean the balancing can be active and passive. Active / passive is used as such that passive dissipated the energy in resistors and active redistributes the energy from higher voltage cells to lower. Also some might mean that passive is just limiting maximum cell voltage by circuitry or active controls the resistors switching by microcontroller. But I mean Inmotion must have something otherwise we would have big problems after few hundreds of km.

[@Blox117]

@@LaggerSVK thats how it works yes. having no balancing is a major red flag. what if a cell drops way below the others? I believe he is just saying this without actually knowing.

[@rcgldr]

@@mr_wrongway - I got a V8F last August (2021), only 900 km on it, as I'm just a casual hobby rider (I don't ride it on streets or for commuting). Full charge has been reading 83.6 or 83.7 volts since I got it and still does. If one of the cells was down on charge, wouldn't that reduce the total voltage seen after 100% charge?

[@4nlimited3dition_4n3d]

@@mr_wrongway Do you have any actual solid proof of this claim? 7:15 That seems insane to me. That would mean all the Inmotion wheels are terribly dangerous and their engineers would be incredibly incompetent o_o My guess (hope) would be that there was some communication / translation error, especially considering Inmotion has generally been one the best in terms of electrical designs and safety / quality overall.

[@victor9]

I just had a problem with my v8f got it less a year 600km. It started vibrating and turns out axel nut was loose. Tightened it all was well till it did it again and broke the axel. Unfortunately it's not covered under warranty. So i need to buy a new motor which I can't afford. So if anyone gets this issue, send your wheel back right away or you stuck with a broken wheel. Edit: oh it's just a warning if you get same issue, otherwise it has been a good wheel arguably the best all weather beginner wheel! So get it.

[@privileguan9127]

What has been the reasoning for not counting the broken axle as guarantee issue? I think that is outrageous. About the magnitude of health insurance not covering expenses for buying glasses because of shortsightedness.

[@Ubeogesh]

Durability of V8S rim is actually going to be good, better than average wheel because it is solid - i.e. there are no rays\gaps, just solid shape.

[@roberthopek8726]

V5f revisit?

[@TeoMande]

Thank you SO much It was a while since I was wondering why my inmotion v8 would only charge to like 70 or 80%. The problem now is, if the cells aren't balanced what do I I do ? 😅 How can I balance them ?

[@flagadajones898]

It can be a problem with your charger. Mine broke this way...

[@mr_wrongway]

You’re welcome! You need to give the battery to a EUC or eBike repair/ battery shop. They need to charge the sets individually to reach similar voltage

[@4nlimited3dition_4n3d]

@@flagadajones898 That would be my bet as well.

[@Thund3rKatZ]

how would you recommend water proofing it?

[@mr_wrongway]

Maybe some added silicone in wheel well as well as around plastic that surrounds L - hangers. That’s just off the top of my head. You can check on forums maybe for more info

[@Ubeogesh]

honestly just don't worry about it. I rode my V8F when it poured many times. Just don't put the wheel on the side when it's wet, just in case.

[@gossebijlenga9075]

The hood is easy to remove without damage by removing the 2 screws and turning the hood 5 degrees. Then the hood is loose

[@linotaffoni2820]

My mew v8s doesn't have a atmosperic led...

[@flowerpower5800]

pelicula fantastica 🤩

[@notenrique666]

WOW!!that axel is tiny. How does it hold up anyone heavier than 150 pounds? Do you know if the 16 s also has an axel that small? Or even the V12?

[@Blox117]

its 14mm of steel, quite standard for these ebike hub motors. the part that will most likely fail is the fact that the axle side with the phase wires running through it is hollow.

[@pierrex3226]

I'm 80kg, i have one, I've put over 6 thousand km on it. It's awesome. Although my range has been dropping, i think i need to look at the voltage of individual cells. That's a lot of mileage though, very happy with it

[@mattyd_gaming7425]

Please stop recommending using proprietary screws or tools. That's super anti consumer and it's all the right to repair movement wants to stop! You better recommend them releasing better maintenance manuals so that way you dont unscrew the wrong screws...

[@privileguan9127]

Fair argument.

[@Ubeogesh]

The argument for just having a DIFFERENT screw head is good though. But having some stupid traingle is not, ofc.

[@renardbertrand1098]

I open 1 battery of v8f ,one v8 and one v5,all have unbalancing cell .I have balancing all manually,it work good now but if the charge not go at minimum 83v,it s necessary to re open .Shit battery in all v5 ,v8 ,v10 .

[@HeaveHoEUC]

Sounds like you have a cold, your voice is an octave lower, feel better!!

[@monowheeling]

Just watching one disassembly video on youtube prevented me to make many of these mistakes.

[@evro8030]

It's a commuter wheel not a beginner wheel. Not everyone wants to look like Robocop and go 50kph Maybe you could consider ALL riders and not just off-roaders and speed freaks.

[@theg0ldkiller]

💯

[@Ubeogesh]

Not sure if you figured it out or just forced the phase wires, but to unplug them you have to actually bend the connector a little with a small screwdriver or smth - there is like a pimple that locks onto the hole in the pin, need to push it out

[@daljsaid7313]

Para a quantidade de rodas que já desmontaste já deverias saber fazer sem andares a estragar as rodas a quem te as empresta. Se tens dúvidas pergunta a quem sabe🤡

[@RazvanflorinIane]

you a noob in bms reviews remove it from the pack and you will see all components on the other side

[@nigelyuen]

Phase wire connector is way too weak

[@lpauwels8706]

still doing it the wrong way, in stead of unscrewing the 4 bolts from the sidepads, you just break them telling its badly engineered.

[@TheDownloader86]

Wtf man, you should just twist the covers and remove them easily instead of this stupid way 😂. I had V8F and the construction is exactly the same. No progress at all...

[@yeahbuddy6852]

First 🤟

[@mr_wrongway]

Bonjour!

[@romiansobieszczanski-paszt4238]

Second

[@mr_wrongway]

Whoop whoop!

[@privileguan9127]

Not interested, but algo push for support.

[@mr_wrongway]

Thank you sir!

[@privileguan9127]

On the contrary: Thank you for your detailed content.

[@ridewaanpietersen4969]

By 2024 these type of wheels are going to be refered to as the 60ties