Triangulated 4-Link | D21 Drift Truck - Ep. 19

[@PanyinAccam-de8is]

Hello my name is Ben from Ghana you really do teach me a lot when I watch your videos thank you for helping me be great like you by watching your videos please never stop posting so I will never stop watching

[@elij.s.7580]

finally a video showing exactly what i want to be able to do. that is so insanely clean there is no way i could do that on my first try

[@Inner_Sanctum]

Don’t sell yourself short… this was my first go at it. Just took my time.

[@jonathan1932]

2 weeks late but im here happy to watch your video I always look forward to watching them.

[@Inner_Sanctum]

Welcome back buddy!

[@lctachell]

I have the same kit but putting it on a 78 datsun 620. Glad I was able to find this video

[@erice5429]

that is a great video and job. This might be the best 4 link suspension video that I have watched. Super nice. thank you

[@derekhansen6652]

Nice build! I had a 92 scsb with an LS swap and 5spd manual, I had the torsion bars cranked all the way down and 4in lowering blocks in the rear, 17x9s it was a blast

[@chefdan87]

I have a bunch of harbor freight tools. They all seem to be the tools i need rarely. Or disposable if need be. Hard to justify buying a tool that costs ten times more if you will only use it a handful of times. And some of them work just fine. I bought the bauer impact drill to build a dock and floating docks just in case i dropped it in the saltwater. Didnt want to risk dropping my milwaukke. That cheap little drill hasnt skipped a beat for years of abuse.

[@bertbccfu9564]

Nice job , ive been watching a bunch of custom rear videos , im getting ready to do my 98 tacoma 4x4 , so ive been taking a lot of notes , you had some good ideas/ advice , Ive been a mechanic for 30 yrs and a fabricator for the last 22, so i can do all the fab work and welding, but ive never done a 4 link , i cant wait to start cutting all the old stuff off , your jackstand idea is brilliant, im going to do the same,

[@harley1793]

Good to hear from, like a Christmas present!

[@terrysibley9636]

Thanks from Terry off the grid in AZ

[@rylanmiller6823]

I love the way you did this it is by far the nicest fourlink I've seen for a hardbody well done!

[@Joshrwms87]

Soooooper clean. I can't wait to see this thing finished! Your videos come out so few and far between that they've been become my most anticipated on KZbin. I mean that as a huge compliment lol!

[@Inner_Sanctum]

Thanks! I assure you it’s not on purpose. Haha I try to make content and something always seems to pop up. Just the way it goes I guess.

[@bikerpeople548]

Very good, I have been looking for just this for 2 days.

[@SkullFrog2]

What are those coils! Im wanting to do this exactly to my 87 toyota project truck.

[@BillyP-49Chevy]

Awesome video my man I love it. I'll be applying this method to my forty nine chevy truck. Thank you.

[@earlesurfs]

If the lower links are angled upward toward the vehicle roll center you will achieve what called anti squat, it helps with traction and reduces weight transfer under acceleration. Yup

[@Inner_Sanctum]

That’s good to know. Thanks

[@josiahhall2352]

Good to see you back

[@darionherbert8449]

My favorite build atm, I got a Mazda b2000 that I'm about to start building and everything I'm planning you're literally doing.

[@davidklauer3422]

Got me motivated to do that to my ‘83 B2000

[@okeim546]

This set up is wicked clean. I want to build a mini truck as well but with a lexus or nissan 350z rear differential

[@brendannunya77]

Just found this channel, fuckin love it! I’ll have to start from the beginning of this build.

[@michaelgovea8299]

Finally!!! Your truck is badass bro!! It’s coming along really good can’t wait for the sliding vids

[@Inner_Sanctum]

Thanks! I can’t wait to just beat the hell out of this thing. Tired of looking at it, just want to drive it.

[@edgarboii4383]

Great video!! It’s coming out super nice!

[@PDofLA]

You must of had a bird in your ear. 😄 Me and another person on Infamousnissan was talking about you yesterday. Glad to see your ok, and back.

[@Inner_Sanctum]

Hopefully good things. Haha

[@lukeburritos]

Yo this is tight ! And your really good at explaining your process everything looks awesome ! Great job. I wanna try something like this with my C1500!

[@59eurobug]

Been waiting for this one. I like the way you think. Texas truckin at its finest!

[@Inner_Sanctum]

Texas all the way!

[@maxhammontree3169]

Very nice work sir!

[@kevinmacneill8008]

What dod you use for coilovers ? I have a 64 Galaxie and have no idea where to start with springs.

[@AnthonyGonzalez-kz6ic]

Nice and clean job 👌🏽💯🔥

[@Inner_Sanctum]

Thanks!

[@EndMotive]

Great explanation on how a 4 link works and the fab work looks awesome!

[@Inner_Sanctum]

Thanks man!

[@titusfox3177]

Glad to see your back man been waiting on another update! Great work man!

[@Inner_Sanctum]

Thanks!

[@garyosgood7499]

Great work nice and clean, my only concern would be the single shear on the coil overs. You could change it to double shear 👍

[@danielescobar7618]

it's wonderful cuz but if you go 45 deg on the upper links you don't need a panhard bar, but you have to replace one of your link ends with a haim joint.

[@jackrichards1863]

SWEET AS.. NICE WORK!

[@Inner_Sanctum]

Thank you!

[@roreysmith6390]

Great job very informal

[@nielo2311]

My man good job keep it up 👍

[@52tippy]

Very nice quality!

[@greghapp1681]

You need Ride Tec bars because they have hime joints on the end to compensate for the angle of the triangle linkage

[@lb8528]

I’m in love with your HB build. I’m taking notes and someday I will start putting my Hardbody drift truck together. I already have a backyard worth of Hardbody parts to get started on my build. I just need to get off my butt and start my project.

[@garynoyes5043]

Hell yah nice work

[@jp_parrish]

Glad for the update on the Hardbody🤘🏻 Hate to hear about the pos’s around the other spot. You seem to be handling it so good luck 👍🏻

[@FlakeGarage]

Great work like always! I definitely appreciate all the detail explanations. Low key we need to strive to keep our work area as clean as yours . lol sucks to hear about the shop man but it's better to keep your stuff safe than have all your hard work just stolen by thieves. Keep on mini truckin

[@Inner_Sanctum]

Thank you. Keep truckin!

[@Carnifex-ze8dp]

Been a minute. Missed y'all, hope all is good 👋

[@Inner_Sanctum]

Thanks! All is well indeed.

[@BAD_CONSUMER]

I dont understand this linkage setup. If you look at 10:50 the upper control arms are pointing inwards. That means if they bend down or up (anything other than level) the ends welded to the axle will have a tendency to pull away from each other. But since they are welded to the axle, they can't physically get any wider, so their movement (I think?) would be limited by the amount of slop the bushings allow. So you're chewing through bushings.

[@Inner_Sanctum]

Well, I’ll try to help clarify. I know you’re legitimately wondering like I was at first. Also, I love these types of posts. This is what helps people learn. Please don’t delete it. Lol That would only be true if one end on each upper link was stationary. If you look at the links, both ends have bushings. Both ends on all links move. There are 4 links total with 8 independent points of movement. I presume you’re thinking that only one end moves and that they travel on their own respective arcs. Meaning that the right upper link and left upper link push and/or pull against each other during operation depending on arc lengths. That’s not the case. Having 2-points of rotation on each link eliminates those arc tendencies. There is, however, a slight centering force in relation to the axle… That’s kind of the point of a triangulated 4-link. As the suspension is under force, it helps center the axle ever so much. That’s why triangulated 4-links do not require pan-hard bars or stabilizer bars like parallel 4-links. The upper links split the angular difference allowing side to side and front to back stability. The movement doesn’t chew up bushings because the axle is free to be where it needs to be under the truck. That’s why it’s so important to measure everything correctly. That axle is going to sit where you put it in relation to the bars.

[@Inner_Sanctum]

Here’s a book by Max Fish on 4-link geometry that explains it much better than I can: books.google.com/books/about/Air_Suspension_Design_Book.html?id=-2ESzgEACAAJ

[@pauloakes6952]

Heim joints instead of bushings would eliminate the bind in the upper links you’re describing mid video.

[@CaptoCapri]

Yep... I'm predicting he's going to be sorry he didn't use heim joints when the dreaded suspension bind is more than he accounted for.

[@Nodxchi]

God damn you do some nice work man!

[@Inner_Sanctum]

Thank you!

[@sarblade]

Excellent job IS! What brand of coilover did you put in? I would imagine its a 250 lb spring, what is the shock dimension. I'm doing a '56 Chev pickup with a triangulated setup. Thanks

[@ManMrKrazy]

I need to know more about those all thread stands

[@DinasGarage]

So cool man been too long… sucks about Chris’s Honda man… I wonder if the stock fuck tank would work in the factory location with those upper links. I want to bag my Hardbody but don’t want to move the factory fuel tank..

[@Inner_Sanctum]

Unfortunately the stock tank would interfere with the upper link quite a bit.

[@hehunches]

Drooling 🤤

[@coreyblizard621]

This is an awesome video, thank you. Currently starting my 4 link. My dif is still attached with leaf spring and stock height. Should I lower the truck prior to starting this project or does it matter? Plan is to airbag truck. The thought process is with it attached to the leaf springs I would have a my position solid (front/back/left/right) and after Installing top links, I could remove the leafs and then install the bottom two. Also just to verify, the top rods and bottom rods should all be parallel to the ground? I see a lot of four links with a downward slope on the top two. Thank you in advance

[@nat1697]

daimm thats suck so much thats youve been stolen ... :( but im glad your finally back doing content :D

[@papergatorzfedducca7998]

New subscriber 🔥🔥🔥

[@zephdulalia2481]

What are your spring rates?

[@JoseLopezLeerParaCrecer]

In your opinion, my question is. What is the better to build 4-link suspension or independent suspension to obtain the smoothest ride on the road? I am willing to spend what is necessary but perhaps building 4-links would save me all the work of independent suspension and obtain the same result with triangulated links also incorporated a sway bar link on the axle? I repeat i don`t want anything else but a smooth ride. some advisor?

[@Inner_Sanctum]

You’re almost always going to have a smoother ride with independent suspension. No question. There’s more independently moving parts to assist in adapting to all the variable road conditions. The more independent points of articulation, the more absorbing capabilities you have. That’s why IRS is superior in many ways to a standard live axle. For drag racing and off-roading, this change a bit. You sacrifice certain comforts to gain strength and linear traction.

[@youbreakityoufixit9594]

How do you know how long to make the link bars?

[@barnstormerr]

You do some goooood work man! You're giving me some motivation on my Datsun 620 which is pretty similar build to yours, 4 link, front coilover setup, SR20, etc... But not as nice as yours haha. Also my porta-band is one of my favorite tools for sure.

[@Inner_Sanctum]

Thanks! I would kill for another 620. I should have never sold the one I had. Yeah, that ports-band is becoming more useful by the day.

[@d21burnoutrivals30]

I need some exhaust manifolds too.

[@stephensnipes2469]

Hey bud what size tubing did you use on your brackets for the rear link? The ones that connect them to the frame.

[@Zukuri620]

One of my favorite vids. It appears as though you are using the H233B differential. What gear ratio are you running? Is that an ABS sensor on the snout of the 3rd member? The pathfinder diffs have one. If so, you can use the output from that as a VSS, so you dont have to deal with a speedo cog, since you're using 350z trans. The relationship between pinion rpm and vehicle speed is linear.

[@Inner_Sanctum]

It’s actually the weaker 10-stud 3.54 H190 with rear ABS. 97 was a weird year. Yep, I have a Dakota Digital signal box that I’m going to wire up to the ABS sensor and use as a VSS for the speedo. The pinion toner used is perfect for this kind of setup. I would like to swap over to a H233B at some point…

[@Zukuri620]

@@Inner_Sanctum I am working on H233B right now for my 1977 620. I blew the h190 years ago with a stock sr20det on 13lbs (T25).

[@Inner_Sanctum]

@@Zukuri620 oh yeah, I’m sure it won’t hold together long. Just need it to survive long enough to shake it down.

[@ciscosebanes]

Neat. 🤙

[@Migman1987]

Where'd you get the 4 link kit?

[@danhart2411]

INNER SANCTUM , what regarding you using and gearing ? It looks like a toyota tacoma axle but I could be wrong.

[@terrysibley9636]

Nice!! How long are your bars

[@pnwchris2000]

This may be a noob question but I’m not very informed when it comes to suspension stuff, I’m more of a paint and engine kind of guy. My question is, if I were do this with the Ford 8.8 I bought for my S10 but I wanted air suspension instead of using coilovers, would the entire link process stay the same and the coilover mounts be a very similar process/area and I would just be bolting in the bags instead? Does anything in the system need to change if you were to use airbags instead? From first impressions it looks like it wouldn’t change anything but I’m very very new to all this none leaf spring suspension stuff.

[@Factors_808]

It would be the same. You could use a mustang 8.8 with the upper mounts already built in, but the explorer rear has bigger axle tubes and 31 spline axles. You could change the mustang axles though

[@joshuagonzalez1995]

Nice ! Where did you get the links from?

[@minjaw754]

Good

[@SavageMotoring]

Glad to see you back! Sucks to hear about your boy. Having a shop on your property is awesome! Off subject- Any chance you can sell one of your oil filter housings off one of your VH's? I messed mine up terribly.

[@Inner_Sanctum]

I can look through my VH parts bin this weekend. I have another VH all tore down for spare parts.

[@SavageMotoring]

@@Inner_Sanctum Dude that'd be sweet! No rush, but lmk.

[@ricardooceguera9647]

Quick question are the upper and lower links supposed to be perfectly evened out a 0 or ?🤔

[@DavidS-wm9ud]

I'm curious, if your links are two different lengths then won't the points of rotation be different anyway? And presumably the angle of the diff would change? Unless the points of rotation are with an equal length of axis then the diff would presumably rotate a little? I suspect having them offset/angled would greatly improve any side to side "swaying", but as you say, would rotate the diff. I'm curious though, you ended up angling them in anyway? Learning here anyway, planning a suspension setup for a tuk tuk funnily enough!

[@Inner_Sanctum]

This is sort of difficult to explain concisely on a reply post, but I will try my best, as far as I can understand. I'm always learning too! The lengths of the upper and lower links are different, but since they are able to rotate at both ends, it allows the diff to move up and down without the twisting effect. Eventually, you would run out of travel range starting with the shorter links first, but that would be over a much larger distance than this particular suspension would ever articulate. If this was an off-road build, meant for massive articulation, then the design would be different. As for the triangulated (angled) portion of the setup... The upper links control the track of the rear end due to them being angled. There's no need for a panhard bar on triangulated setups because the side-side force is counteracted by the upper links. Now, if it was a parallel 4-link, that's a different story. Because there's not counteracting force from either of the links, you would need a panhard bar that would redistribute that force accordingly.

[@kevietrucks3402]

You are right the diff has to rotate because the arc of each control arm is different notice he did not put an angle finder on the flange and cycle the suspension.

[@emilio-_-5095]

Yooo where did u get ur wheels im trying to get some for my hardbody

[@Ctvracingg]

You didn’t bevel any of your mounts to make sure the weld went all the way through?

[@Inner_Sanctum]

Depends on the joint I’m welding. I almost always put a ~45 chamfer/bevel before welding certain joint types. The inside corner joints and heavy lap joints on the upper mounting plates have plenty of penetration since I run the machine hot with a smaller .30 wire. The link mounting tabs on the axle third member absolutely have bevels. Most of my welds have bevels.

[@gillgitsham1976]

Awesome build guys ..fantastic..iv got a d21 duel cab with a rb25det motor in it . ...question. what wheels are these please? ?? ..asking from Australia

[@Inner_Sanctum]

Thanks Gill. I bet that RB rips! Here’s that info: Wheels: Level 8 MK6 17x9 +0 (6x139.7) Tires: Federal RS-R 255/40r17

[@gillgitsham1976]

@@Inner_Sanctum thanks mate it's my mums old phone so it comes up her name .my names Scott gitsham ..cheers for the info re wheels .. I love the set up its so clean ..great videos

[@jerrydawg4434]

What do you have in this video for wheels and tires???

[@Dec3.1903]

You need to remove the jam nuts.or just leave them loose. As built, it can’ articulate. You could also use hime joints.

[@Inner_Sanctum]

A lot of folks think this for some reason. However, that’s not how this actually works. You’re under the assumption that the bushings and links move together inside the permanent welded on mounting brackets. When in reality, there is a metal sleeve in the bushing that sets the nominal distance for “squish”. The welded mounting points and bushings remain 100% stationary, while the link rotates on the bushing during articulation. The link is the only part that can move up or down. The bushing does not move with the link. If you look closely, you’ll notice the zerks fittings and how they distribute grease to the outer bushing side of the internal bushing. The bushing and metal sleeve are not designed to rotate hints why the grease doesn’t lubricate the inner sleeve. The bushings have to compress in order to add torsional resistance. Also, heim joints wouldn’t work at this angle due to convergent geometry. It would toss instant center out the window.

[@killerwollf]

hello I want to make my 4link and I don't understand the pinion angle, how do I adjust this angle? could you make a video explaining exactly how to configure these angles in a 4link, thanks your videos are nice

[@jasonenglish4354]

I’m about to do the same thing on a Toyota Hilux. My question is have to tried this triangulated 4 link drifting yet ? If so I would like to know how it does as far as the axle moving side to side under extreme loads that drifting puts on it. I’m hearing that it’s better to do equal length bars none triangulated and with a track locator bar is better for drifting. I’d much rather build it triangulated as long as it works for drifting

[@Inner_Sanctum]

So… I built a 1UZ Toyota pickup years ago, and a buddy helped me fab up a similar triangulated setup. I really enjoyed it. It was predictable and simple. It definitely never felt like the axle was moving around. Haha I think that’s the importance of having it triangulated in the first place. The input force is cancelled out by the opposing side. The reason that there are different types of 4-link is due to fitment, space, and articulation requirements. They all effectively achieve the same result. Triangulated is the simplest, but also requires the most room to properly function. On another note, the only sketchy thing about these little trucks is the flanged axles versus having a nut/hub combo. Thankfully nothing has ever happened to my personal trucks, but it was always in my mind. [Snap! Wheel and broken axle come flying off the truck… 🤣]

[@sheldenheiser4072]

Did you fully fab the kit or did you buy just a universal kit

[@tedroybal5231]

Unfortunately, your bars are guaranteed to cause pinion angle issued. Please look up "instant center." If you draw straight lines through your bars, they should intersect the front of the vehicle.

[@Inner_Sanctum]

Nope! Truck drives just fine. Zero pinion angle issues. I actually assumed the same thing, but I put my digital angle meter on the truck a long time ago, unhooked the coilovers, and ranged the suspension 14” and the pinion angle remained the same.

[@EduardoMartinez-xm4rw]

Did you fab the parts yourself or is there a kit that I can buy to recreate your set up?

[@jonathonthomas4918]

Where did you get the disc brake conversion and the 4 link ???

[@rob136916]

On 5he top if you put it level then it's going to pull it to the frame

[@kieranabbey6418]

Hey mate im doing a drift truck build also. there is no information for 4 link instant centre and geometry . can you provide any advice for my triangulated 4 link setup cheers

[@keltonlowry8844]

Or you could probably follow the same technique on different trucks I’m assuming. I plan on building a Chevy OBS and the kids are all over $2000. This looks like a better option to me. Very similar to the ride tech four link that’s on my 68 Camaro

[@samuelmarques8510]

The bushing rubber Part should be nice and mashed against the bracketed it spins internally not by the rubber piece

[@Sidewayzrik]

Do you have a link on the 4 link that you used? I want to do mine in a few weeks.

[@GaugeTrivetteMusic]

What kit did you use?

[@jeremynorris1381]

Where did you get those adjustable all-tread stands??? Nice work BTW

[@Inner_Sanctum]

They are “Camco” RV stack jacks. You can get a set of 4 on Amazon for ~$35 shipped. I then went to Home Depot and purchased a 4’ stick of 3/4” all-thread and some 3/4” nuts for adjustability. Lastly, I cut (4) 1’ pieces from the all-thread and assembled. Viola!

[@IvelLeCog]

What do you do for a crust bro? Just wondering. You're switched on

[@Inner_Sanctum]

@@IvelLeCog I work in construction.

[@IvelLeCog]

@@Inner_Sanctum Nice, love the trades. Am a plumber myself

[@boudrouxatnightg2144]

What rear end are you using I see disc brakes and not drums. That is exactly what I need to do to get mine up to date.

[@Inner_Sanctum]

Stock D21 rear end with the Beebani dual caliper brackets and 2002 Honda Passport V6 AWD rear rotors.

[@shookones2216]

What 4 link kit is this?

[@stephensnipes2469]

Hey bud. What size are the rear rims and tires?

[@Inner_Sanctum]

Wheels: 17x9 +0 Tires: 255/40r17

[@luismontanez21]

Where can I buy the kit ? Or how much would you charge me to make another kit for me

[@HTCmighty808]

Can you send me link to where you purchased the kit please ?

[@Inner_Sanctum]

Easiest way is to hop on IG and lookup Beebani Customs (Jason Pope). He doesn’t have a site to link.

[@matasgarage5454]

That’s a beautiful 🤩 build congratulations. What kind of coil-over are you using. And that’s a great mini truck

[@Inner_Sanctum]

Thanks! The coilovers are QA-1.

[@matasgarage5454]

@@Inner_Sanctum is it 12” or 14”

[@Inner_Sanctum]

@@matasgarage5454 they are QA-1 DS401 (14” extended) coil bodies all around, and running 9HT450 (450lb) springs up front and 9HT250 (250lb) springs out back.

[@tomworrick6384]

This is one of the best videos Ive seen for suspension! Did you make the stands? Great idea.

[@Inner_Sanctum]

Thanks! I purchased the stands off of Amazon for ~$35. They are listed as: “Camco RV Jack Stands”. Then I just pulled the jack’s leveling post out and replaced it with 3/4” all-thread from Home Depot. Then I used nuts to level and lock everything.

[@vincentking8267]

Bro you lost me at 8:18. You have a triangulated 4 link kit, and the angle was correct. You're installing like a parallel 4 link kit, but with different size links. To keep the pinion angle on a parallel install, they have to be the same length and distance from pivots.

[@Inner_Sanctum]

Nope

[@vincentking8267]

@@Inner_Sanctum feel free to Google "parallel vs triangulated 4-link"

[@Inner_Sanctum]

@@vincentking8267 your assumption is a very common misconception for folks. What you’re saying only makes sense for a singular point of rotation on a link. Meaning one side rotates while the other remains stationary. That not how this works. Both sides of the link rotate freely over the bushing therefore there’s no change to pinion angle during articulation. Also, the difference in length is important for instant center. Please feel free to Google.

[@vincentking8267]

@@Inner_Sanctum you can't get an instant center on a parallel 4 link because the 2 plains will never intersect, hence the term "parallel". Instant center references a triangulated setup. Which you had a kit for.

[@Inner_Sanctum]

@@vincentking8267 that’s what I am talking about (triangulated). My setup is a triangulated 4-link that requires instant center. You’re assuming there’s a difference in arc length therefore there’s a change to pinion angle. What I am saying is that there is no arc length in this range of articulation because the link is able to rotate at both ends. Meaning when the axle moves up, it is able to remain in the same fixed position because there is no fixed point that makes it rotate creating a pinion angle issue.

[@jasonlewis862]

What lb coilover did you use in the front and rear

[@Inner_Sanctum]

Originally I used 450lb front and 250lb rear, but now I’m running 650lb front and 450lb rear.

[@jasonlewis862]

@@Inner_Sanctum thanks brother greetings from Trinidad and Tobago

[@jasonenglish4354]

@@Inner_Sanctumyou say 450# on rear. Is that for each rear for a total of 900# ?

[@Inner_Sanctum]

@@jasonenglish4354 each.

[@Inner_Sanctum]

@@jasonenglish4354 yeah, it’s 900 lbs out back. Pretty dang stiff… not sure if it will be ideal yet. Might swap back after I drive it and find out.

[@RealityUntold]

How is the fitment with 9" 0 offset wheels and 4x4 fenders? I'm ready to buy wheels and tires but unsure about this fitment.

[@Inner_Sanctum]

You know, I’ve been meaning to make a video showing the difference between D21 2WD and 4WD fenders. I actually have all brand new fenders for both 2WD and 4WD. I’ll pull everything from storage tonight and start working on a video tomorrow. It will be short and sweet. You’ll then have your answer. Expect it by Tuesday.

[@Inner_Sanctum]

Here's the video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZpPafYuaetdkhtk Hope this helps!

[@jonathanisaak1264]

Hey man what shocks did you use

[@Inner_Sanctum]

QA-1 DS-401 coilover bodies all around. QA-1 9HT-450 springs (front) and 9HT-250 springs (rear)