Inspecting a Used Hasselblad V-Series

A video showing how to carry out a pre-purchase inspection of a used Hasselblad. Major things to look out for are covered.
Note that I may have missed some things in this video. Checking the items I cover here will NOT guarantee you a perfect camera. On the other hand NOT checking them might cause you some misery.

[@Maliceofdallas]

Excellent! I just transcribed this so I can properly check out a used 500c today. Thank you!

[@nolanpho3281]

Honestly one of the most helpful videos on buying a hasselblad I've seen. I'm about to go to an estate sell and possibly buy several of these. Crossing my fingers!

[@mike.thomas]

Glad to hear it was useful. Good luck at the estate sale!

[@bknabel]

Very useful. Thanks for taking the time to post this!

[@mike.thomas]

Glad you liked it. It's hard to generalize on prices. I'll say this: A basic 500c/m with one back, 80mm lens, and waist-level finder might run from $650US to $1100 US based on condition, numbers-matching, back, lens type (C, CF, CFi), etc.

[@sophrapsune]

Great advice, Mike. Thanks.

[@sportsdan1]

Great info, thanks. This helps me in my quest for my first Hasselblad.

[@mike.thomas]

If you don't want to go through eBay's buyer protection, then David Odess is the person to send the camera (and lens) to. I don't know him personally, but he has a very good reputation among Hassy users on the internet. Do a Google search for him and you'll find his website. His site even has a page on how to check out a used Hasselblad (much like my video here on KZbin). Best of luck!

[@mike.thomas]

Yes, the 500c/m is a V-series. There was a very early F-series. You won't run into those very often. Then the V-series, which covers many, many models and they all look basically the same. Then the H-series, which is the modern, autofocus kind that look very different, and cost a fortune.

[@MegaDorimon]

Fantastic Video.

[@mike.thomas]

Glad you found it useful. I appreciate the comment.

[@mike.thomas]

Thanks. Glad you liked it.

[@robertblascos4488]

Great video, what if the barn doors do not close completly? Only after winding the camera the close completly

[@mike.thomas]

Cool! Enjoy the hunt...

[@AshokeTewari]

Hey Mike ... Nice video! I saw an electronic drum kit on the side and couldn't help smiling, 'coz I love playing the drums!! Keep up the good work. Hope that Hassy's in good hands now.

[@mike.thomas]

Thanks for your comment. That poor drum kit has been ignored for a few months now :-(. I keep it around because you never know when I'll get fired up to play again.

[@AshokeTewari]

I sold the double-bass pedals to feed my photography needs :D ... anyway, I air-drum a lot, so ... :D

[@mike.thomas]

I find I don't have to practice much to be pretty good at air-drumming :-).

[@AshokeTewari]

I'm always in the groove when air-drumming ... I've also started air-bass playing!! :P

[@mike.thomas]

I think even a little "droopiness" is a bad thing. The most well-known guy that works on Hassies is David Odess (google him). I haven't had anything done by him, but he's a certified tech. You might want to write him about your issues and have him give you a quote. My guess is it will be less than the $300 for another body (which may have its own issues). You should send him the back, too, IMO.

[@roadkillbikers]

Hi and thanks for your feedback, I'll check the KEH seller out. Doubt I will by secondhand online though, since I wanna do the field check-up you demonstrated in an earlier video, great stuff by the way! Hassy assigned at birth, ha ha…yeah, I wish! Actually, I passes the Hasselblad HQ everyday on my way to school. Been shooting Mamiya RZ67Pro II (and Minolta then Canon 35mm) since I moved to Japan. This has to change, a Hasselblad it is!! Post more Hasselblad stuff, we all love it!

[@ruiyuanzhang1031]

Hi, the content is very useful! I got a almost unused 503cw model. Everything works fine but a small portion of the leather on the body’s corner starts to peel off. Should I fix it myself or return it?

[@mike.thomas]

Both are very good cameras, IMO. The RB shoots a much larger negative than the ETRSi. On the other hand, the ETRSi is a nice compact medium format SLR system. I've considered buying one many times. The RB is a much larger system, but is still hand-holdable (barely, IMO). There are many nice example photos from both systems on flickr. See if you can check either system out somewhere local to you before committing (check craigslist and used stores, for example).

[@ChristianEriksson83]

Awesome! Thank you :) I'm driving to look at one today. Hope it looks as good as yours.

[@mike.thomas]

How did it turn out?

[@ChristianEriksson83]

Mike Thomas it went better than expected! The seller got a bag full of stuff from a relative that past away. 500C/M in almost perfect condition, prism finder with metering, extra 12 back, 10mm extension tube, shade bellow, Polaroid back, extra light meter and some sync cables. All for $1000. I'm happy :-D

[@ChristianEriksson83]

Mike Thomas $861 to be exact

[@mike.thomas]

I imagine it will be well-used, which isn't necessarily bad. Ask him whether he kept it serviced.

[@ezekielkokspeaks]

Hi sir, I would definitely view your video once my 500cm arrives next week. thanks for sharing

[@mike.thomas]

I hope you enjoy the camera!

[@ezekielkokspeaks]

I would really hope to!

[@mike.thomas]

WRT the green shutter speeds, you must be shooting a 'C' lens. Those green speeds aren't actually settings -- the're basically "exposure suggestions" for the lower EV ranges. For example, if you have to use a small aperture in dark conditions (say f/11 at EV 5), you can't set a slow enough shutter speed, but you can kind-of "count over" to the suggested bulb exposure time in seconds on that green scale. I guess it's for people that can't multiply x2 in their heads :-).

[@bthemedia]

@2:35 note that you do Not need to hold the shutter button down if you turn the shutter dial (above the shutter button) to “T” mode, i.e. for a long timed exposure. It may be simpler just to hold it down though for 1-2” but not longer - ideally with a cable release. Release the body barn doors by rotating the dial back or advancing the film. Would be good to test the “T” timed body shutter as well!

[@alambuzz]

Hey Mike, I am a Fujfilm X Pro1 user and I am looking forward to buying a Hasselblad but I am confused. Please explain the differences between Hasselblad 500cm, 503cw, 503cx, 50el. I don't know if there are other such Hasselblad models available :D

[@mike.thomas]

Put the shutter speed on something slow. Pre-release does not fire the shutter (perhaps I misunderstood your comment?). It closes the lens shutter. Once pre-released, when you push the shutter button, you should be able to see the lens' shutter open, and close again, and hear the aux shutter close (when you release the button). When you wind on, the lens shutter opens again and the mirror drops.

[@mike.thomas]

I hope it turned out for you. Thanks for your comment.

[@mike.thomas]

Mirror lock-up should result in the aux shutter and mirror being out of the way (you can't see through the viewfinder). After release, the aux shutter should close. Wind-on should bring the mirror back into normal position.

[@mike.thomas]

I think a 500cm will give you the essential Hasselblad experience at ales see cost. The 503cx does have TTL flash metering if you're into that, though. I flipped the one I had and doubled my money (it was an estate sale purchase). Can't help you with purchasing in Japan or eBay, but KEH is a good corporate seller in the US (they offer a guarantee). Being from Goteborg, I assumed you would have the Hassy they assign you at birth. :-)

[@roadkillbikers]

Hi Mike. In the process of getting my first Hasselblad. Im from Goteborg in Sweden so it's the right move! I have been checking out 503CX as well as 500C/M and 501C with the 80mm f/2.8 CF lens. And the secondhand market here in Tokyo where I live is pretty good. What Hasselblad 500 series would you recommend? The 503CX you are showing in the video, you still have it? Are there any seller you could recommend? Keep up the great work.

[@mike.thomas]

If the auxiliary shutter isn't opening all the way it will screw up your exposures (cast a shadow). Probably needs a service. Regarding not being able to take a shot -- that /may/ not be a big deal. Try taking the insert out of the back and putting it back in, which will reset it. You may have wound it "all the way", and that's why numbers aren't showing and it's not firing.

[@jonathan180]

great vid! thanks for sharing those advices :) i was just thinking of buying a used Hasselblad. how much should be a reasonable price for a pretty good condition used Hasselblad?

[@15buggie]

Just picked up a 500C/M today (Labeled 500c however it does have the user replaceable screen). Wish I would have seen this earlier. However I got lucky as it all checks out. Really like your Hasselblad content.

[@mike.thomas]

Glad the Hassy stuff is useful to you! It's a great system.

[@thezombiekillmachine8190]

i believe there is a few hassy c's with the user replaceable screen people call them transition cameras

[@bobsden25]

I have a Yashica 124G which is a lovely camera but i want to try something with a range of lenses. The Hassleblad range is a bit too expensive for me so i had it short listed to a Mamiya RB67 or a Bronica ETRSi, any thoughts on them?

[@DanielGjelsvik]

Thanks for fast reply :) The camera does not want to release after the mirror is up and the aux. shutter is open. I think the shutter fires just like if you where pressing the normal shutter button. I think I will contact the ebay seller about this... Thanks again for your help :) Daniel

[@jeffreyfletcher2512]

Thanks for your videos Mike. I'm looking at getting a 503cx. When I originally was playing around with it, the shutter locked up on me. Through some research I found out how to fix this issue. However, it locked up on me again and then once more, always while the lens was on the body. Its an easy fix so long as I have two sets of hands but the problem is, I don't always have two sets of hands. Do you know why the shutter is continually locking up? The camera is in good condition otherwise. Thanks for all your help.

[@mike.thomas]

Hi Jeffrey, Other than to have you be sure you just haven't reached frame 12 on the back, I'm afraid I can't be much help on this one. Body shutter/mirror lock-ups are much trickier than simple lens shutter situations. You might try writing David Odess and asking his opinion. Hopefully he's still servicing Hasselblads. Good luck!

[@tomwirtz904]

Thanks Mike - great video! I just purchased a 500CM but would like to get a 45 degree prism view finder. Any suggestions? Is that something you have to sell?

[@mike.thomas]

+Tom Wirtz They're all over eBay, but I do have an extra one. Send me a private message on KZbin and we can probably work out some kind of deal. That said, I liked the prism for a couple of days, but it makes the camera unwieldy. Give the WLF a good chance. I use the WLF pretty much exclusively, with the magnifier most of the time.

[@DanielGjelsvik]

I just bought a camera like this one on ebay. When I tried out the mirror lockup feature, I wounded the camera before the rear shutters went down and broke the upper one. I now have the same problem as Huddiethegreat :( The camera jams every time I use mirror lockup and the shutter releases right after the mirror goes up, but the rear shutters stay open. Am I doing something wrong, or should this not happen? -Daniel

[@littlepilotdude]

Hi, I'm looking into buying a hasselblad V series camera. I have seen the ELX body for a cheap price. Is there any advantage to that camera over the other 500s? SHould I just stick to buying a 500 C/M? Thanks, Liam

[@nutmegger1957]

Still trying to figure out what "type" the Hasselblad 500 c/m is. Is it a "V Series?

[@DanielGjelsvik]

Sorry if I didn't explain the problem very well :P You know how the camera behaves when you shoot with the lever where the shutter button is set to T? When I use the mirror lock up the same thing happens, only that I can't close the aux. shutter and the camera is jamed,You can wind the camera, and thats what I did the first time and that broke the upper aux. shutter :( Guess I would have to send it in :P

[@flutterbydragonfly]

Do you have a 501c? I’m having difficulty finding a good video on basic operation. Any suggestions?

[@mike.thomas]

The 501c works 99.99% the same as a 501cm. Anything you watch will help you understand basic operation. Have fun!

[@mike.thomas]

Sorry, but it's really hard to diagnose over the internet. Admittedly, I probably couldn't diagnose it in person -- I'm fortunate that my cameras have given me no issue (so far). It couldn't hurt to take (or send) your system to an expert repairperson.

[@mike.thomas]

Yeah, the green numbers are just a "helper". Ahh, I didn't think of the original back, which isn't automatic-stop. Well, as long as you know how to use it, it doesn't make much difference, really.

[@mike.thomas]

Hehe. That's OK. These things are pretty complicated, really (not so much in use, but the mechanisms are pretty complex). Yeah, sounds like it has to go in :-(.

[@emomagica]

Is $1000 for an entire kit a good price? I have seen 500cm's for as low as $750 locally but if I go through a company like KEH, they have an excellent return policy.

[@mike.thomas]

Yes, KEH is a good reliable company. I've bought lots of gear from there. $1000 for a full 500c/M kit with a T* lens is not too bad. Well, at least it was OK back when I was shopping for them. Your best value will be had from a local dealer, because most likely they will have a return policy similar to KEH. As you know, you can get real bargains, say on craigslist, but you really need to know what you're doing when checking them out (the purpose of this video). I've turned down more than one craigslist Hassy. Good luck, and sorry it took me so long to reply.

[@emomagica]

Thank you for replying! I'm ordering a Hassy body in the morning.

[@mike.thomas]

It's long gone -- sorry!

[@eatshrots]

Hi Mike! I love your whole channel! I just recently got a hasselblad 503cx and I love it. I wanted to ask you about the leaf shutter. I noticed there's a small "dent" on the tips of one in the front and back. I saw some other photos of hasselblads and noticed it wasn't just mine. Also, the felt on the rear shutter doors shows cracks in the felt. Are these bad? Here's a link that to give you an idea of what I'm talking about: bit.ly/2vX8gZD I can't complain too much since I got this system for about $600 and it's in great condition overall, but I was just curious. Anyways, great channel! Thanks!

[@mike.thomas]

Welcome to the world of Hasselblad, and some of its lore! The bent shutter leaf tips are normal (and freaked me out at first, too). The cracking of the "palpas" lining is probably not considered "normal" in the sense that Hasselblad didn't plan for it to happen. However, it is *extremely common*. Don't worry about it. I'm a bit unfamiliar with the current market, but $600 sounds amazing for a 503cx kit. Enjoy!

[@eatshrots]

Thanks for getting back to me! Originally it was 1600...let's just say someone owed me. I shouldn't have said that I got it at that price. I guess I should be glad to hear that the palpas lining is common then. Is it possible to replace those if I was interested in doing so? Thanks again!

[@mike.thomas]

Heh, well, depending on what you got in the system, that's still not bad. 503cx models still bring a surprising amount, I think. Re the palpas, getting it repaired would probably be a case where the cure is worse than the disease. Just let it go ;-).

[@eatshrots]

Thanks so much again! I was also surprised when I looked into your channel and you're a synth lover as well. Although I haven't dipped into modular. That seems like a scary endless pit to fall into hahaha I just love the classic stand alone units. But I drool over the Moog Model 15 once in a while. Great channel! Hope to see more!

[@eatshrots]

hey Mike! I had a couple more questions if you don't mind. I was wondering what the small "port" is on the left side of the body. It has 6 pins inside. Also, would using a shutter release cable help avoid shaking when shooting hand held? And which kind of cable can I get? I know there is the mirror flip-up button, but using it feels awkward. And I also noticed there's a little lever like knob on the shutter release, any info on that? I tried looking around the internet, but haven't found much info on these things. Thanks!

[@jonathan180]

i see, ok thanks :)

[@mike.thomas]

Stick with the 500c/m. Just my opinion.

[@mike.thomas]

Dammit: "at a lesser cost" is what that first sentence should say. Damn you auto-correct!!!

[@Thefragdude]

great vid!u looked diff though haha

[@mike.thomas]

@ElliottckHull Sorry. Start hitting craigslist! :-)

[@mike.thomas]

Wow I'm sorry to hear that. Unfortunately, I think you need to get a refund. The camera sounds broken in two ways. The seller does not deserve your money in this case, IMO. If you have to use eBay's Buyer Protection then do so, but try to work it out with the seller first. My best advice is to buy either in person, or from KEH[dot]com. eBay is a total crapshoot :-(.

[@mike.thomas]

Yeah -- my wife made me grow my beard right back.

[@flutterbydragonfly]

Hi Mike. I messaged you on tumblr. 😊

[@flutterbydragonfly]

Not sure how to friend you here but I followed you.

[@MKhan-oo7yu]

(-_-) I just paid 3300$ for my Hasselblad 503cw kit 99% new.