Is Aluminum Extrusion Worth The Money For Your Van Build?

#vanlife #sprinter #extrusion #vanconversion #vanbuild #diyvan
In this video we will walk you through our thoughts and experience using aluminum extrusion throughout our van conversion.
Although not the cheapest material around, without having to worry about mold/mildew or warped material, extrusion can be a great way to frame out those sections of your build that require high strength and precision.
If you’re in the market for extrusion a simple google search can send you in the right direction, but if you’d like to use our sources I’ll provide links below.
Before you go ordering anything though, you should come up with a rough estimate of the amount of material you’ll be needing by creating a basic blueprint of your van build. You can do it by hand using some graph paper or give something like SketchUp a go which is free for personal use.
SketchUp : www.sketchup.c...
We sourced all of our material through a third party called Heitek who also helped us decide on the amount and type of material we needed by assisting on the structure of our layout.
Heitek : www.heitek.com...
Now this isn’t absolutely necessary if you already know what and how you plan on building with aluminum extrusion. If you want to save time and money you can order the product directly from a manufacturer like 80/20 or a distributor like Amazon. Amazon might have some 3rd party manufacturers of extrusion along with the hardware to assembling everything at a cheaper price. It is more cost effective to order full lengths at larger quantities and cut them down yourself.
In order to cut aluminum extrusion quickly and easily, you should get an aluminum cutting blade for your saw. Make sure to get the proper size blade for your saw. They also recommend having some WD-40 nearby if your blade starts to get hot. That way you can spray it and keep it from welding your pieces back together during the cutting process!
10 Inch Blade : amzn.to/3b2UriI
12 Inch Blade : amzn.to/3mItIui
Now when it comes to the assembly of the extrusion there are various bolts, brackets, and T-Nuts to choose from. You can purchase everything directly from 80/20 or you can find the majority of what you need on Amazon.
80/20 Extrusion Hardware : 8020.net/faste...
80/20 Fasteners : 8020.net/faste...
Extrusion Hardware/Fasteners On Amazon : amzn.to/39nx82D
You might be able to save some money purchasing your bolts from McMaster-Carr.
McMaster-Carr Bolts : tinyurl.com/kk...
You might also want to grab yourself a Rivnut tool kit in order to place strong mounting points within your van. That way you can connect directly to the vans body with your extrusion.
Rivnut Tool Kit : amzn.to/3QlSw8T
We also used a double sided foam tape for all the connections we made to the van body in order to prevent squeaks as well as create a small thermal barrier.
Double Sided Tape : amzn.to/3xQQ8Q8
If you have any questions make sure to shoot me an email at [e-mail] or leave a comment!
You can also support the channel by becoming a Patreon member!
www.patreon.co...
Oh yeah, we have some air fresheners available on our shop page here:
dogcatmanvan.m...
Follow us on instagram @dogcatmanvan

[@juanitasellshouses]

Oh my. Wish I had known you were doing this, before you ordered anything. Hubby is a retired manufacturing engineer for the automotive industry. He's built hundreds of assembly lines with 80/20. Soo...we used series 10 (mostly) and some series 20. To bolt we drilled and tapped then put in 1/4 20 hex head bolts. We also used gussets in crucial areas. Our van is our daily driver, so everything had to be removable, if needed. (The van seats are stored in our garage!). We just went to Alaska this summer. Zero squeaks from our build. Incredibly strong. Hubby says 15 series is overkill. I would add a photo but not sure how.

[@dogcatmanvan]

Thanks for all the helpful info! I'm sure if we ever do another build we'll experiment with the series 10.

[@hedleypepper1838]

Damn that stuffs expensive. 😮 no way I'd go that route other than the manufactur sponsoring it.....

[@docimma]

Are you in TX? Building campervan.

[@juanitasellshouses]

@@docimma no. We're in TN.

[@Matt-il4kf]

Great vid. PLEASE STOP TASTING SHIT BEN!!! Be well!!

[@SewingBoxDesigns]

You just made me realize why he seems so familiar. Ben gives off a Dennis the Menace grew up vibe.

[@libertine5606]

You should have used the 10 series. Less expensive more space and still crazy strong. If you have a Grainger close you can order from them and pick up without shipping, which is a huge part of the price. I would recommend doing one part at a time. Jumping in with both feet could be a expensive learning curve.

[@GotMountains]

Totally agree. 10 series is 1/3 the price and by the time it's all together it's bombproof. Still a great video though. Best I've seen so far on the pros and cons.

[@GOLDVIOLINbowofdeath]

@@GotMountains What do you mean? It’s a video directing people to spend thousands of dollars more than they need to add hundreds of pounds of weight more than they need to and take up lots of space that’s precious in a van and you still think it’s the best one you’ve seen?

[@GotMountains]

The best I've seen on the use of 8020? Yep. Clear and concise. The only thing I'd change is from 15 to 10 series. I used it in my build and spent less than $600 and am a fraction of the weight of a wood build.

[@GOLDVIOLINbowofdeath]

@@GotMountains I’ve been telling people for a year and a half in the comment section on George’s channel to use 10 series 8020 profile so you’re hardly the first person to say that

[@GotMountains]

@@GOLDVIOLINbowofdeath lol, thanks, I guess? Not sure why you feel the need to tell me I'm useless, but it's good advice I'll keep giving, even if you think you did it first. Kinda baffled you took the time to scold me...lol

[@bchurchill3551]

Last comment for the KZbins algorithm.

[@tbotiOG]

I have used it before to make a camper for my truck it’s great stuff, but for a bed frame in a van I would just go with aluminum tube 1/8” or wood, Instead of 8020. Cheaper and lighter. A bed frame doesn’t need to be able hold a few thousand pounds. 8020 really only needs to be used where lots of strength is needed, it’s expensive and heavy.

[@chrisdaniel1339]

Your comparison of extruded Al to the same size piece of Fir from the depot is apples to oranges. You could have used the smaller series 10 extruded aluminum vs wood and it still would be significantly stronger structure than wood. Is 80/20 more expensive absolutely, but there is no comparison to wood lumber. Your structure is massively overbuilt for what you were constructing, remember weight is the enemy of van builds. My father did two van builds back in the 80' and the bed frame was built from 1"x3"(0.75"x2.5") poplar boards to frame the bed platform and then 1/2" plywood on top and it held 2 full size adults and 2 kids and it was rock solid. Series 10 would have been more than strong enough for 95% of your framing, I might go with 1020 to act similar to an I beam for the stringers for the bed but I would run them from the cleat on the pax side to the cleat on the drivers side not front to back. I am excited to see the complete build.

[@muvybuf1]

We used 1.5" 80/20 in all our van roof rack and inside framing. To surface the cabinets, we put white Formica on 1/4" plywood and put it in the groove or channel of the 80/20. That meant we had to put the brackets on the inside of the cabinets where they didn't interfer with 80/20 channel (if that makes sense). The white Formica cabinet faces have no screws in them at all. They just sit in the channel. I enjoy your videos and your explainations. Keep up the good work.

[@SewingBoxDesigns]

That's brilliant! Just slot the plywood in?

[@dogcatmanvan]

We'll have to check out this Formica stuff. Thanks for the sharing!

[@muvybuf1]

It is Formica brand laminate. It's called their "whiteboard" version. Glued with DAP Weldwood. It's considerable extra work to laminate your own plywood. But it looks good and you can use dry erase markers on it!

[@billnalen]

I did the same with my 80/20. Cabinets either have 1/4” plywood in slot or brackets holding the plywood in the frame opening. 80/20 sells a gasket for panels that holds the 1/4” ply so it doesn’t rattle. They also sell brackets that attach to the rail and then you can screw the plywood to the bracket so the panel floats in the opening.

[@docimma]

The Aluminum Carpenter did slide-in panels this way too. Ive trying to find the best waterproof material. Like a lightweight resin mdf.

[@roannathephoenix8561]

I was so excited to see you had a video up. Weird but it's like you two are my kids that I'm always happy to hear from and get updates from. You have such great vibes I can't help but smile when I see a notification.

[@eddieknight8392]

and this my friends is how you make a van build AS EXPENSIVE AS YOU POSSIBLY CAN and guaranty THAT YOU WILL NEVER RECOVER HALF OF WHAT YOUR BUILD COSTS....

[@rbuchowski1]

Have you looked in to drilling and tapping screws in the 8020. Would allow you to remove any panels attached to them with very little fuss and will be as good as a permit attachment.

[@jimduffy9773]

I would think your idea would save a lot of money. I would think that 8020 would shine where you need to "remodel" or "repurpose". Adding tie downs for stuff. The stuff may be different over time, and floorplans can change. But what's one more hole in the bar?

[@dogcatmanvan]

My only issue with that is seeing screw heads on the finish. My goal is to keep the face free of visible fasteners, but maybe I could suck it up and let it slide on the removable panels!

[@johnlasch363]

I thought you were cool before but then you started 50-50 board sliding 80-20!!!

[@jimduffy9773]

A good presentation and valid details! I recently saw a video from an RV company that was removing all the wood they could from their designs. The reasoning was that, (in his opinion), every time they investigated a moldy smell, it was related to the wood and the humidity in RVs. They didn't go into a lot detail on what product they were going to use, they referred to it as a marine grade product. That could mean plastic or fiberglass.

[@handlebullshit]

The moisture is your problem, not the wood.

[@chrisschnelle6171]

Have you thought of using a fastner in reverse? ( Have the bolt head in the extrusion and a cap head nut or security nut on the outside) the other option is to have a moveable “bolt sleeve” in the track and have a screw go into that.

[@dogcatmanvan]

I'll have to check and see what a bolt sleeve is, but I have thought about placing a fastener in reverse.

[@billnalen]

You can use 5/16” carriage bolts. They fit perfectly. I pair them with nylon insert lock nuts. Attached most of my 80/20 to the frame this way. Ken from OurKaravan used them this way to put on all his corners.

[@mvorn44]

You could have used 10 series in a lot of areas instead of the 15.

[@carlytraxler]

I've been going back and forth on aluminum vs. wood for my own build and I SO appreciate this! It was beyond helpful.

[@GOLDVIOLINbowofdeath]

“Probably spent too much money” understatement of the year. This is a perfect example of why you should always read the comments on the video

[@conandal]

I subscribed solely because you shredded that rail like a boss 😎.

[@eksine]

For $2500 just go to HF and buy their Vulcan omnipro 220 or the cheaper titanium multi welder and the aluminum spool gun for like $80. The omnipro 220 is like $1100 and the titanium is a few hundred cheaper. Aluminum welding is hard but not as hard as taking $2500 up the keister, you guys got super screwed. Plus you have no tools to show for it. You still have several hundred dollars left to buy aluminum and just get a tap and die set and some bolts at the home improvement store and you're good.

[@MikeBaxterABC]

There is nothing wrong with this stuff .. It's a good grade of aluminum and nice to weld even. It franky is around the same as 2X2X1/8" aluminum angle, by the foot! The problem is Aluminum is SO darn expensive of a material to use for a bed frame!! it's 15 to 20 times more costly than wood, especially if you add in all the connectors! To me? Nothing could justify spending so much money :(

[@computernerdtechman]

I can see using Series 15 (1.5") extrusion for the bed framing to handle the extra weight, but why didn't you use series 10 (1") extrusion for all the cabinets? That would have worked to fit the fridge in place 22"- 1"-1"= 20".

[@girlpowered1696]

Really great video but absolutely poor planning! 1. to put in walls (backcabinets and inbetween cabinets) you can use 1/4 inch plywood and slide it into the aluminium extrusion 🙉 and backside of cabinets don’t need thick walls anyways 2. on 80/20net you can get all the pieces needed precut to exact size, this way you have zero waste and save money. Most importantly shipping cost goes way down if you save on weight and very important length! Because I believe above 59inches you pay freight (=super expensive) below you pay regular shipping (=much cheaper) 3. you could’ve used 10 series for almost everything, it’s as good for your use 4. use sketchup to completely (including EXACT measurement) plan out the van! This way you can count the exact # of nuts and bolts 5. attaching anything wood to the 80/20 you obviously can use the same nuts and bolts than to attach it to oneanother, if you don’t want the screwhead stick out, make it flush with the wood and cover it up! Hope this helps! This should save any future 80/20 vanbuilders some time/money and weight!

[@thomasquigley7040]

I've seen nice paneling setups with inset 3/4" marine grade ply and some 2-holed flat brackets on the inside. One hole with a screw into the wood and one into a T nut. The finished wood looks good when it's finished and is framed by the aluminum with a bit of a shadow gap. They used 3 sided extrusion with one smooth side facing out, or 2 sided extrusion on corners with 2 nice smooth sides. You gotta be willing to see the extrusion though. if not, you're adding more thickness to your build to hide the aluminum with your paneling.

[@CrustyClad]

Great video BUT... the 8020 brand is easily the most expensive supplier out there. Plenty of alternatives at half the $$ or less. 👍

[@photografiq_presents]

This is the dumbest thing I've seen today. It's as though you didn't do any research, or even just ask someone who's done this before. Love her body language. Are you guys still together?

[@alexishoyt1632]

Thanks for letting us learn through your experience! Y'all broke it down really nicely and I appreciate the transparency on how much you spent. I can def see the advantages in some areas, while using lumber in others.

[@The_Heartless_Empath]

Aside from the ridiculous cost, I hate to tell you but this stuff will not hold up well. I have spent over 20 years working with equipment that utilized this type of extruded aluminum. Short story, it works until it doesn't. It does not hold up well to vibration, impact or stress in general. Coworkers and I were constantly having to replace broken sections because of cracks and breaks at the bolts. It does not flex along its length, by design and therefore puts undue stress on the fasteners and joints rather than "sharing" the stress along the entire structure. The bolts need frequent retightening. Loc-tite may help there. Engineers love this stuff but as I said on another video, they don't have to deal with it after it's installed. It has its uses, which I would not extend beyond shelving, but I would avoid using it for anything under stress, vibration or going on the road. You would be better off welding or brasing square aluminum or using 2x2 lumber and wood screws, both of which would be more durable, flexible and would stand up better to " life on the road". The tubing would be much lighter and both tubing and pine would be much cheaper but to each his own. I wouldn't be caught dead in skinny jeans but they sell the hell out of 'em.😂

[@Thompson-from-Finland]

NEVER use selftappers in vans! vibration loosens them pretty quick,

[@t.m2933]

You get what you pay for. Also, the aluminum will wiegh a lot less. If I build it, I want to do it once and right.

[@ethanandmiastuberuiz3756]

Dude your intros are everything keep it up you 2!!!

[@justcommenting4981]

How to get it. Where to get it. Cost. Comparison. Complications. All there. Nice.

[@phennexion]

This video is amazing!! So gooooooooood. Answered so many questions for when I start my build. Keep up the great work guys :)

[@dogcatmanvan]

Glad it helped!

[@potpie3930]

Yay more content!

[@mytwogoodhands2799]

Liked the video, maybe use size 10 as it is very strong

[@rvnb1027]

The take away here is they have no clue how to use this product.

[@Grouch3682]

Thanks for filming this. I’ve been planning to build out the bed in a similar format but wasn’t too sure about the materials. I knew I wanted metal though

[@BlueWonderLady]

Great video! I appreciate your thoroughness in explaining the process and pros and cons. For me personally, I am going with purebond formaldehyde free wood. But it seems that extrusion could come in handy for certain aspects of a build, just not a must have.

[@brunoportilla8175]

YOOOOO MORE SKATE INTERLUDES PLEASE

[@pooheadlou]

I kind of feel you didn't need your 80/20 to be as thick as you have it, personally I would have gone with different sizes for different parts. Also I think it's a mistake to compare say a 2x2 in of wood to a 2x2 piece of aluminium, the aluminium is considerably stronger than the same size wood. My 2c.

[@MissyPippyCrafts]

So glad to see you two this morning! I'm going to share a thought I keep having about you two and it's def a bit off topic and quite uncalled for BUT.... if you two reproduce, your kids are bound to be absolutely adorable and most likely quite brilliant. Just my thought as I creep into my grandma age. Thanks for all the info you give us. I was on the fence about using wood or aluminum and now I think I will pick and choose areas to use each type. Stay well. See you on the next one.

[@dogcatmanvan]

Thanks Diane, we still have to figure out how to make money before we make a kid haha, but glad to hear you think we'd be able to bring a cool little person into the world!

[@pjsplace5665]

Is it possible to have solar panels in frames and set on pivot arms that you can extend up and bend out to the sides of the van ... exposing a deck below while still orienting the panels to be tipped toward the sun? What say you Dad? DogCatManVan sells pivots dad makes others buy?

[@dogcatmanvan]

That would be a cool contraption my dad might be able to fabricate together. I've seen other companies create something similar to this so people can fit more panels on their roofs and extend them out when parked.

[@ifell3]

Wow, the cost! Got me subbed. Also be careful you are not creating a heat bridge from the outside to the inside, or vice versa.

[@robarmstrong1934]

I hope you guys have realized by now..that magnets don't work on aluminum...

[@dogcatmanvan]

Haha we aren't that dumb. I must not have explained myself properly.

[@Frenchcrop]

I’m just about to start my own little extrusion project myself. Here in the UK we have a company that supply their own version of 8020, and for a very small extra charge, supply it pre-cut to the millimetre. This adds a few percent to the overall cost, but as long as you have it properly planned, piss poor performance - prevented. I agree the facing problem, is a, well, problem, which limits its application; and this stuff can’t just be thrown at a build out. But for my money (and skill level) this stuff is preferable over wood wherever possible. Liking the vids, keep em coming!

[@GaryMacKenzie]

Did the size of the fridge not get used when doing the cad design ? If it was someone did a bad calculation.

[@dogcatmanvan]

We're all about bad calculations!

[@SewingBoxDesigns]

I think the extrusion where you can use it and wood where its a pain to use aluminum is the best way to go. Also the whole light weight but strong airplane plywood, can't remember the name might make a big weight difference? Here's my question though. Did you weigh the van as was to see how much of a difference there is? And dont forget the heavy duty long haul tires that last longer. We have them on our E350 and they do the job. We won't need new ones for years. Buy that poor girl some news jeans. 🤣

[@MissyPippyCrafts]

What tires did you get? I have an e350 also and just got Michelin Agilis cross climate tires. Hoping those are good ones.

[@dogcatmanvan]

I'll have to check those tires out. The ripped pants are her work pants haha

[@brookestephen]

You recorded outdoors, and I hear some unique bird calls in your recording. Can you tell me approximately where you filmed? It doesn't have to be exact, vague is fine - maybe state name and a compass direction!!! 6:28

[@dogcatmanvan]

We filmed this in northern Indiana!

[@brookestephen]

@@dogcatmanvan thanks so much!

[@VANESSASBLESSEDLIFE]

Great information thanks for helping others make informed decisions

[@evilcam]

I have always that 80/20 stuff looked like a good product, but was too expensive too be viable. It's light and strong as you could ever want it to be, but it is too prohibitively expensive to take over most other building alternatives. Still, if you can afford it, I don't see how you could go wrong with it, as if it is put together correctly, it's as stout as a brick sh17house. Also, it looked to me like the problem you were having with those screws breaking, derived from the screws themselves, rather than your fastening process. I know you're already done with the framing thing, so it is moot, but if you ever build anything else that needs fascia over extruded aluminum, you'll probably be okay if you use more robust screws. Though that said, gluing it and setting the removable panels with magnets is a great idea too, and the adhered portions will be just as strong as screws. Lastly, if you found a way to contain and collect the aluminum shavings, you might be able to melt them down and pour them into something else you might want. I'm sure your father would know more about all that, being an experienced metal fabricator, than any of us watching. If you did not save any, then no worries, I never save any of that stuff either. Even though slivers of it will stay with you by sticking to your tools, clothes, shoes, and floors/walls for months and months afterward. Cleaning up aluminum shavings reminds me of that scene in the Star Wars prequels when emo-vader talked about how much he hates sand, cause it's dirty and gets all over everything.

[@dogcatmanvan]

The screws we used definitely aren't the strongest. I just wanted to use something with a very small head so that you wouldn't really notice them on the finished product. I couldn't find a larger/stronger screw with as small of a head. Keeping the shavings to make something else would be a fun idea if I had some fun molds to poor them into!

[@NomaddUK]

I don't know if you are aware but aluminium is not a ferrous metal so magnets will not attach to it. You would need to mount a steel plate on the aluminium strip where the magnet would attach. This is perfectly feasible and a great idea for easy to detach panels. I have used aluminium extrusion quite a lot to make 3D printers and it is great but I would never be able to afford building my van from it. I would love to though. Well done both of you. It looks great.

[@dogcatmanvan]

Yeah I guess we didn't do a good job at explaining our thought on the magnets, but the idea was to glue a little block of wood with a magnet countersunk within it. Using a metal bracket or steel plate with a magnet attached might also be an option we experiment with.

[@waynec2962]

thanks for the info! I think when it's time to build my van I will only use extrusion for the bed lol and use the van floor to hold my batteries and water tanks. great video!

[@TerryManitoba]

I considered using 80/20 on my first van build. Didn't end up using it. Considered it on my second van - ended up using a total of 3 feet of 80/20. It is not about the money - Just didn't find a compelling reason or application for using it. (well exempt for 3') Of course YMMV.

[@-ellimist-]

Great video in terms of talking about pros and cons, and really highlights that the initial design is extremely important as well as not going "whole hog" when working with a new building material so as to adapt the design as you learn more about what works and what doesn't. Invaluable lessons learned that come out of this are to order stuff for just a portion of the project and see how it goes so future portions can benefit from perhaps ordering different series or components of 8020 that are better suited (e.g., different linkages/connectors, different series/sizes of 8020).

[@girlpowered1696]

Yeah and also they should’ve ordered everything precut, since they did already have the measurements

[@thebenson1983]

80/20 is awesome. But for a full van build not a good idea. I use a 80/20 on my bed platform and boxes for the battery and water tank. Using it for cabinetry and elsewhere it's too expensive and too time-consuming and as you saw it does take additional space in the construction of your cabinets,

[@susantosi695]

Smart, adorable, fun, good content…You two are perfect.

[@MissyPippyCrafts]

Completely agree.

[@maxwood192]

If you use aluminum framing you should try and incorporate it into the overall look of the design. The look should be aluminum and plywood, not aluminum with plywood hiding the aluminum. Leave all internal spaces open to allow for ventilation and access. All plywood should be fastened to the aluminum so it can be removed easily, this makes repairs to services and electrical gear easier. I think aluminum framing is a better product than wood to use in a van build. It costs more and you have to think harder about what you are doing. Unfortunately there is a big learning curve using this product, personally I think the end result is better. You guys have done a great job and if you did another van tomorrow you would do some things different.

[@mermaidvanvb]

Measure well before cutting or ordering precut!! I used Heitek as well & ended up ordering off Amazon for bad measurements as well ... expensive mistake!

[@therugglet]

Thank you for sharing a real-world build with 80/20, everyone praises it but I think your video brings to light its shortcomings. Taking 3" from your center aisle just for 80/20 is a big drawback. Waiting on supplies and making wrong cuts is bound to happen, with wood one can run to the HD or Lowes and get another. I wonder how many people are taking apart their vans after building with aluminum? Using 90-degree brackets with wood, screws, and marine adhesive. One could build that module 6x before touching the cost of the aluminum.

[@jeanmarcchauveau-u4q]

If I used your aluminum elements, I would not fix them directly on sheet metal to thus avoid some of the thermal and sound bridges of this alloy, knowing that aluminum is a very good conductor with copper. For my part, everything would have been glued with Sikaflex adhesive putty and tightened, just long enough for assembly. Because, try to unstick one of your stuck rails and you'll laugh for five minutes I think. This is just my opinion, of course, but it seems sensible to me. Thank you for your video and the work done by both of you, without forgetting your dad, of course. Kind regards, Jean-Marc.

[@Galluchh]

Neodymium magnets are the kind of magnets you're looking for, they are extremely strong, great vid;

[@preskma]

Yes, this. They are also known as rare earth magnets. I used some in my build for the same purpose you want to. You can find them at big Orange or big Blue.

[@dogcatmanvan]

I'll make sure to snag those. Thanks!

[@cheryltaylortaylor]

It is a little late but the channel Humble Road may be a good channel for you to check out if you build something else with 80 20. He builds vans and uses 80 20 throughout the entire van. Could be a good source of information for you for anything in the future. Have fun with your van!

[@dogcatmanvan]

You're absolutely right; we even reached out to him on one occasional for his opinion. Thanks for the recommendation

[@drewhodge3820]

Thanks for the honest and very informative review. Can I ask the weight difference between the aluminum and the same size in timber?

[@dogcatmanvan]

I never weighed the two, but I think there are comparison videos out there. It's not that much different.

[@SacredHeart0520]

Velchro for panels

[@lsilva1544]

Love your vids.

[@dogcatmanvan]

Thanks for watching it!

[@Panthineguardian]

Just a quick non sober thought after seeing your snapped off screw.. Can you either glue (or cut the head off a partially installed screw) sticking out from the extrusion to make a sharp pin, and then place the wooden Plate against this "pin" and hammer it in? like a revers staple idea.. Love the design and your veracity when it came to your aluminium experiences.

[@dogcatmanvan]

That's an interesting thought. We might have to try it out

[@ballygarran]

Love the build. I feel the manufacturers over engineered the extrusion. 1” would have been plenty strong enough for the majority of applications especially as you added ply. You would have saved weight & shipping costs as well as the actual extrusion. Don’t feel bad as I’ve over engineered plenty of times on different projects.

[@karenfranz7262]

👍👍👍

[@bchurchill3551]

Viewing that video was an emotional rollercoaster for me! I thought you were going to make a total mess out of it, but eventually you pulled it off. Well, until the magnets fail.

[@Not31337]

1) I'm here for the extrusion dance 2) thank you for listing the ordering alternatives 3) mean comment 4) check out Thomas Heaton's mini van build, he used 80/20 kzbin.info/www/bejne/f5LGhGeEo56od7c

[@SewingBoxDesigns]

#3 🤣

[@MaximC]

You guys could consider installing a HRV, which automatically circulates the air inside but also doesn't lose the heat, Lunos E2.

[@dogcatmanvan]

I'll check it out

[@corydwagner]

Velcro? Seriously . . . I used it on a bunch of beadboard installed over stud cavities (hidden storage), and it worked great. I bet it would adhere even better to aluminum.

[@dogcatmanvan]

That was also an idea we were floating around

[@joesvanjourney]

Where the hell did they their pricing from? Even 2 years ago an 8' run would be nowhere near $70 something dollars.

[@tonybucca5667]

As soon as I heard $78.72...plus all the connectors...plus t-bolts...I scratched the 80-20 idea

[@4specialist]

Weight savings?...and also, an estimate of the additional cost over purchasing wood for framing...and do u feel as tho the additional cost, plus the weight savings, was worth it in the end...?

[@tvelocidad]

Should have used 10 series on all cabinetry, uppers & lowers. What you are using is massive overkill.

[@7996hobguy]

Welp boys. It looks like im buying a welder. See yall over in the MIG Welding for Beginners comment sections.

[@DarkSoulBaja]

80/20 is simply way overpriced. There are several alternative manufacturers that are easily half the price as 80/20, and completely compatible with other brands. Admittedly 80/20 makes the most options in regards to connectors and such, but buying the oddball stuff isn't gonna brake the bank. Shop around, you can save a ton of money using other brands.

[@LarryStewart1]

Great topic and coverage! I just convinced myself to build my bed with extrusions. Do you think that van-width span requires 15 Series, or would 10 Series do the job?

[@dallenrussell]

With some of the pre made bed designs being $2000+, although you had a significant amount of time invested, I think the aluminum is a great investment 👍

[@tombouie]

Thks PS: ??Hows-abouts compared to good-old-fashioned square aluminum tube & associated fittings and blazing them together??

[@Tom111060]

No 3.5 t-limit over there? "Project of Science" has an in-depth weight comparison on aluminum vs. wood ... Have a look.

[@qminke4256]

That skateboarding content was nice bro you got some killer moves!

[@dogcatmanvan]

I’m a bit rusty, but I’ve still got a bag of stuff I can whip out haha

[@sam-ww1wk]

I welded 1" square alum tube in my build. Light, cheap, clean, and not bulky. You could have your local welder zip it all together for half the price of that extrusion stuff. And it'd be half the weight. Just saying.

[@AZRockRunner]

I used 2020 series (20mm) and it is plenty strong. It's the cheapest, lightest and most available. The square bracket is less than a dollar.

[@GrantSR]

Oh my holy mother of God! When the stuff costs that damn much, and your complaints about using wood are so utterly imaginary, it is painfully obvious that this is either an advertisement, or status signaling.

[@pierrez8019]

Hi! Great video I was happy to watch, since I was considering using aluminium extrusion too.... Did you also compare the weight of both solutions? Greetings from France, Pierre

[@googooboyy]

Really awesome work! Quick question cos I might have missed what was the glue used to adhere the wood to the frames? looks some kind of foamy thingy..

[@caseyjryan]

I agree with your conclusion of using a mix of 8020 and wood based on application. I’m in the middle of my buildout and the cabinet facing has been the most challenging especially since I don’t want to SEE the 8020 frame. Good job on the overview.

[@caseyjryan]

Oh! For those looking for cheap brackets and nuts, I’ve gotten everything from tnutz.com out of New York. Cheapest prices I’ve found anywhere and the quality is great. Good customer service and fast shipping as well. I don’t work for them, I’m just a happy customer.

[@dogcatmanvan]

Thanks Casey, we'll have to source our products from them next time

[@william4332]

Should have used Robotunits Extrusion. They will cut it and send a drawing detailing where everything goes. Also a reduction time for assembly

[@Bart-ye6ze]

hy - greets from austria - i love your project and your live style 🤙 2 questions, between the wool and the inner surface you installet a vapor shield? and how you transport the moisture, especially over night out of the van? thanks and nice greetings Georg

[@Jollyprez]

I guess I'd try to take a "Glock" approach - use aluminum ONLY for relatively sparse reinforcement of wood and other materials. Do we really need x-15 (?) material to support overhead cabinets? Or can we get by with basic L bar with one extruded support in the middle, and one on each end? Same thing on Most on-the-floor cabinets - can we use L brackets on horizontal areas with extruded vertical supports? Costs and weight could go down dramatically, while still giving you adequate strength. Just a thought.

[@GOLDVIOLINbowofdeath]

Trim screws are for ………. Wait for it……….. trim. You should have a disclaimer saying this video is for entertainment purposes only, maybe even mention comedy

[@shiftymedia619able]

Kick ass Seabass you gotta start putting some more skate moves on your videos really looking forward to more videos bem keep it up

[@dogcatmanvan]

I might just do that!

[@halcollins4293]

My third van and first 8020. Used it to make my single bed. Never again. Look up skin and bone construction. Last bed frame was a standard mattress. I could carry the frame with one hand. The 8020 is so heavy I had to use a hand truck. Probably close to 100 lbs. And there’s the cost 😢

[@ResponsiblePledge]

It's odd to me to keep hearing "quickest & easiest" when talking about making the van you are living in, there are always two choices. Two paths to take. One is easy. And its only reward is that it’s easy.

[@jeepmor]

I hate that crap, always ends up coming loose. I had a whole robotic industrial fence cell system put together with it. Worked fine there. They put some machines frames together with it, total nightmare. Too heavy for RV.

[@statusqo1]

GUYS ! i know its late but , old BIg hard drive magnets are insanely strong and dirt cheap , you can find them by the hundreds in electronic recycling centers . its time consuming to disassemble but once you get the hang of it its pretty streamline !

[@seethruhead7119]

i can imagine using some twist to lock fasteners to attach the outer sheeting to the t slot. if they don't exist than could be designed and 3d printed.

[@PossumMedic]

Aluminum, great to work with, horrible to clean up 😂 Edit: I think you mean skeleton or frame not carcass 💀 😂

[@bchurchill3551]

Once again, amazing intro! Hope to see more of that creativity in the future.

[@277kne]

What about metal studs? Do they come in 2x3 size? Pleasure Way has a few videos and clips in their van tours that show the building process. They use plywood attached with angle brackets. Their wet bath and refrigerator cabinets are all plywood. The plywood I believe is cabinet plywood that could be prefinished on 1 side. My final thoughts are light weight plywood that is stable is good. Apple ply, birch or bamboo. Should always finish it and don't leave un treated or un finished wood.