Is the engine dead?

[@RassoolRacing]

What do you think the problem is with my 1NZFE?

[@DeadlockRiff]

Definitely vote towards a more indepth inspect on the 1NZ. I cannot imagine it's anything downstream of the filter considering the mechanical gauge didn't even flutter.

[@jacquescrusan9500]

Personally, I'd do a combination of options. Get the second 1.5 engine, put that into the car, then dress down the current engine all the way. As a mechanic, there's really no better way to get really familiar with an engine's design philosophy than to pull it completely apart and analyze each piece. Sure, you can just grab a different engine and throw it in there, but then all the hard work you've done to get to this point gets sidelined (not to mention the whole balance of the car gets thrown out of whack and you'll have to tweak the suspension to get proper travel movement again because your average speed is higher). I had a similar issue on a 1.8l VVTi Miata engine (abnormally low oil pressure instead of 0), and tried chasing down the problem externally first, but I couldn't figure out what the issue was. I ultimately pulled the engine in its entirety and put it on the stand and pulled it apart. From there, tore it down completely and used a small-bore borescope to inspect as many oil galleries in the crankcase as possible. Turned out those were fine. I switched over to the cylinder head and repeated the same process; no dice. Then took the oil pump, rigged up a janky nut drive, hooked up the pump pickup and fabricated a mock-discharge that was the same internal size as the oil gallery in the block. Once that was done, got a large tupperware container, filled that with 2 quarts of conventional 10w-30, and started turning the oil pump. Long story short, my test rig grew up to the point of putting my oil filter adapter housing on the end of the discharge tube before I found anything noteworthy. For me at least, it turns out there was a huge pressure drop across the adaptor housing, which i never quite figured out how that was working. From there, did the typical 'well, I'm in here already' maintenance items (main and rod journal bearings, arp fasteners, etc.) and started looking into fabricating my own delrin timing chain guides. Took awhile, but knowing someone that has a CNC router helps out a lot. On a side note, my Bosch oil pressure gauge turned out to have inconsistent continuity in the power delivery wires (not the sensing wires) so it probably would have continued to give me erroneous reading anyways if I hadn't fixed that particular problem. Upon reassembly, oil pump was overhauled (not replaced; just checked tolerances to make sure it wasn't completely worn out), got a new oil filter adaptor housing, deep-cleaned every oil gallery in the block and heads, and oil pressure gauge/sensor wiring was overhauled as well. And that was what it took for me to fix my problem. Might not necessarily be the cause of your problem, but it's a start.

[@floodtheinbox]

There are plenty of youtube channels out there who would, at this junction, go straight for the twin-turbo LS swapped yaris. As somebody who also tries to go fast in a slow car, being sympathetic to wanting to get the car back on the road ASAP while also figuring out what brought it down in the first place, this feels like the correct direction. If it turns out you find the problem is something simple and silly, all of a sudden you have an entire spare engine and will never have to stress about blowing one up. That piece of mind, to drive at 10 10ths all the time, is priceless.

[@ginko6766]

Have you checked the oil bypass? One of the guy mention in short yt but you didn't read it yet....

[@IIGrayfoxII]

@@floodtheinboxLS is so over done its not funny. LS swap this, LS swap that, LS swap,LS swap,LS swap,LS swap,LS swap,LS swap

[@funfacts3425]

​@IIGrayfoxII I wanna see different engines get some love, there's some gems out there that can make pretty good power and torque, but they get forgotten about due to the LS swap everything following!!

[@jacquescrusan9500]

@@funfacts3425 The reasons LS swaps are so numerous and ubiquitous is simple. 1. They don't take up much physical space for how much displacement they carry, and can fit in places other engines simply can't. 2. They're mechanically simple and easy to tune, and are capable of being fuel efficient and/or powerful. 3. Due to their backwards compatibility with the foregoing Small and Big-block engines, they have a plethora of great strong transmissions to choose from to put behind them, both automatic and manual. 4. Parts (both New-old stock and aftermarket) are plentiful and range from reasonably affordable to wildly capable. As of right now, the only engine in the US I really know of that dwarfs the LS in notoriety for the same reasons is the Smallblock chevy, and that's simply because it did it first, and it's arguably even more simple. Once an alternate engine platform can contend on those same bases as the LS, then you'll start to see more of them. Until then, it's just the rule of least common denominator and best bang for your buck. With an LS, there is no significant wait time for go fast parts because so many companies stateside make them. The same can't always be said for other engine platforms out there. Not to mention that it takes no adaptor plate whatsoever to mount a T56 or TR6060 behind it, plus there's a plethora of reasonably priced swap kits and loads of DIY documentation showcasing how to put one in so many other platforms. Why wouldn't I select an LS solely for the sake of brevity and time? The killer of swap creativity for me always boils down to budget. I for one am not interested in laying down thousands of dollars just to make an engine swap come together if I can save hundreds if not a thousand or 2 by going to a different platform that makes it easier. I'm doing the swap to drive the car; the more I can drive the car, the more I can enjoy it. Brutal pragmatism at its finest.

[@jkl1129]

I can’t remember if you checked the oil filter or not, but oil filters can sometimes implode internally and cause a loss of oil pressure. Would be worth checking.

[@sileightykg3933]

Check the oil filter & adapter housing and seals. Any failure there can cause oil bypass and alter oil pressure readings. If that checks out, then you should look internally into the engine; check the oil pickup and gasket, a failure here can cause air cavitation in the pump and a loss of oil pressure. I hope this helps.

[@Dino-krfe]

I think that if you have time to swap a 2ZR before February 2024, it could be good for a one person job. but I agree on the fact that it’s not worth it rebuilding this engine, rather get a new 1NZ quick if you feel like you’re in a rush

[@elwadeo12sg]

Please be the guy who does the definitive 2ZR videos. You would mean more to the Yaris community than anyone could ever if you made this high quality video format that you have been consistently making for years but about swapping in a 2ZR...please please please

[@minimumeffortenthusiast8242]

2ZR 160HP± w/ NA bolt ons. I think it's worth it, especially now with all the support it's getting, there's even intake manifolds for it now.

[@WeAreChecking]

I like the idea of the swap, but I do think it's worth spending the time and effort once the engine is out to diagnose the issue. It'd make for a good set of videos for sure diving into an engine like that but also to teach both yourself and others the diagnosis process. Plus once the engine is working again you have a spare just in case and/or an engine that can be sold to recoup some of those costs. That said diving into a 2ZR with a standalone ECU would be very exciting provided you've got the budget/sponsors you'd need for something like that. The flexibility offered by a standalone ECU truly has value beyond what I could tell you. Either route you take though will be exciting to watch, it's been excellent to see the car and you as a driver grow.

[@SimonTrent8000]

Work on this engine, done the jdm swap thing with my aw11, your more likely gonna get a worse engine if there is nothing wrong with yours. Noticing your oil cooler, neat thing with the 1nz is the oil galley passes right behind the thermostat in the block promoting good oil warm up and oil temp stability

[@lorenz651]

ofc try and find the problem! There's no learning in ignoring a problem ;)

[@idjgamerelectro6769]

I agree

[@mattsaenz00]

This is literally the first video of yours that I’ve seen and from what I can tell you really love this car. Considering the options that you laid out, I would inspect the issue further by taking out the oil pump and seeing if anything is obviously wrong with it. Best case scenario, you identify and issue with the pump and replace it. Worst case scenario, it’s an internal problem and the motor has to be rebuilt or replaced. In my opinion, going with the larger motor will take longer but by documenting the process and sharing it with your viewers, it can give us more insight into what it really takes to race competitively. Would love to see the build continue into something bigger than you even imagined. The sky’s the limit so why not. I’ll be sure to subscribe so I don’t miss another episode. Best of luck and keep on racing.

[@FullySpooled]

By the amount of gasket material in the oil pan, it sounds like the oil pickup may have sucked up enough material to gum up the pickup or oil pump. Pull the valve cover and see if you get oil to the top of the engine while its running. It should be obvious whether the lifters and cams are getting oil. You may not get a lot of metal shavings in the pan if there's no oil to wash it down from the bores, but you would at least see something. Either way, it sounds like you'll need to pull the engine. Been there.

[@zxKrookedxz]

you could tell by the sound the lifters had no oil id say ur right all that shit got sucked up especially at high rpm

[@paladinkhan]

Thats funny, literally just found your channel an hour ago from the prior video. Very timely followup lol. Looking forward to seeing the yaris rip again!

[@tobymason8951]

Skating on the jack made me smile 😊

[@AsteroidBeltStudio33]

Find a Prius C engine, it should drop just in, with a compression of 13.4 it should raise the power up but you’ll have to tune it for E85 no 93 octane or lower The Prius C engine already comes with forged pistons and rods from the factory, and there’s plenty of those in the junkyards crashed. All you got to do is swap your engine cams to the C engine to get rid of the Atkinson cicle CAMs

[@gavinhogberg]

You could probably get a 1.5L 1NZ-FXE from a 2nd gen Prius and swap the cams from your Yaris into it to make a high compression 1NZ. You could also just buy the 1.8L 2ZR-FE, or you could get the also 1.8L FXE and do the same thing with putting 2ZR-FE cams into it to get a 13.5:1 compression ratio. I've researched modding that specific engine extensively, so if you are interested in going that route, feel free to reach out to me and I can tell you anything you need me to about it

[@rccrazer]

3rd gen racer and master mechanic here. This is likely bad crank or main bearings, so this is an engine out fix anyway. Go with the 2zr swap. You'll get 300cc more down low grunt so your corner exits and midrange will be far more usable with minimal weight gains. People saying to add boost are not thinking about how boost changes driving dynamic and packaging and tuning.that whole system in your yaris isn't worth the time, hassle and complexity. Chronicle what you pick. I'll be here either way. You rock dude!

[@9adrda]

Just discovered your channel. Like what you are doing! Love the Yaris🚗

[@AaronsEccentricGarage]

Not knowing what's wrong would drive me crazy! Even if you ditch the engine, imo, you should still investigate

[@tamoismynameo]

as an ncp-91 owner myself, i would say swap the engine. For what you put the Yaris through, it's time to go up to the 2zr. Granted, i've followed almost all your sponsorships by getting NST cranks, pulleys, short throw, even went to Japan to find the cusco pillow tops, front tower bar, lower arm bar, at a decent price before shipping em back to myself. But for the times you want, and the effort you've done--it's time to say good bye to this engine. NO HATE. All love my guy.

[@Wegaccount]

Definitely wanna see a 2ZR in it, the season is pretty much over anyway, may as well do a full refresh and upgrade a couple things

[@kyozo7796]

Man, that sucks. I'm no mechanic but it might be clogged up with loose bits of sealant somewhere. I really dunno what's the cheapest thing you should do with that aside from a teardown of the engine. I hope you get it running again, I really enjoy your content.

[@marioangelo1391]

Well you can always check your oil filter and if is not the oil filter, you can blow some air where it goes the oil pressure sensor and that will unclocked any lines, but if you gonna take that option remember to take out the dipstik and the oil cap to let the air flow

[@aliosman764]

Please do the 2zrfe swap! In South Africa we received about 200 models of what we call the Toyota Yaris 1.8 TS with the 2zr as standard and some minor bumper details to stand out from the average Yaris. Definitely keeping track of this Yaris Build.

[@AustinHampton594]

Depends on classing rules, but 2zr being the better motor, it sounds like that would be the best way to do

[@IIGrayfoxII]

One thing you could do is put a bucket under neath the oil filter location and then fully remove the oil filter and run the engine for a second. If oil enters the bucket, oil is flowing from the pump. A simple way to test the pump.

[@JefeInquisidorGOW]

Check the oil filter bypass, maybe its stuck open. You can get another engine, and get parts for this one for a fresh rebuild, hell, maybe even beef it up for a turbo (stronger internals, etc.)

[@timhicks2154]

My Yaris motor died after the oil pickup screen picked up some debris that blocked it. Even though it had received regular oil and filter changes.

[@PseudoKirby]

two oil changes and send it, if failed then look into a high compression setup/swap with a piggyback for reliable power boost

[@saltymain]

Please do an in depth engine teardown of the 1NZ i own one and would like to see how it looks like and other people do it to get a better idea

[@SpaceFoxAD]

Since the season is over id say go big or go home, big block time!

[@michaelpdrock1]

I saw nugget, and track car... New subscriber 👌🤘

[@s2kinky577]

Oil starvation to oil pump. Need a baffle probably. Also should have ran a resistance check on the sensor before even taking the oil pan off.

[@SmurfHunter]

Not a professional mechanic, but I've seen engines run with the oil pan fully dropped on youtube. I am wondering if what was happening to those cars is the same to this one - there is no oil circulating, so the car is maintaining a thin coat of oil on everything so it sounds better than it is? It would certainly align with no clogs but a failed pump, and I could see the same oil being maintained for a good 15-20 minutes of runtime in the valvetrain to a degree. If you are going to drop the engine anyway, maybe just swap it. It's your car, have fun with it. I feel like the oil pump isn't a bad guess though. If it was OEM, it's possible it grenaded under high pressure. Toyotas aren't typically the ones to do that, but stranger things have happened to cars.

[@NBSV1]

Under light load they’ll run a pretty long time with just the film of oil on everything. But, under higher load it builds more heat and pushes the oil out from the bearings. With all the little bits of debris he found I’d bet it stuck the oil pressure bypass open. Doesn’t take much, especially when high rpm will push the bypass open. Then a bit of debris holds it open.

[@trdjody]

2:10 😂 oh good. Thought it was just my Yaris that does it on start up. Mine is the alternator bearing.

[@RassoolRacing]

So annoying right

[@torisaurio]

I would try running the engine with the sensor out to see if any oil comes out of that hole, maybe it's clogged at some point because of the gasket leftovers you saw in the oil and if you're replacing the engine I would also try to run it very hot to try to see if that helps melt what's clogging the engine (if that's the case)

[@lilraceboiii2095]

Remove the sensor take a pipe with a threaded end, put it the do sensor hole and attach the other end somewhere on the top of the engine. Start it and just see, if some oil, is flows from it. probably the passage will be cloged. You can also remove the valve cover ti see the oil flow.

[@surgekiller4659]

Take the valve cover of and turn on the engine to see if the oil si going true the block. Nothing to loose at this point.

[@surgekiller4659]

Rebuild it, port and polish the heads and add a cam. Lets see what the engine can do NA and some work.

[@halfborn]

I’m rooting for the 2zR! This is what I am doing with my Yaris.

[@Ptrmrkks]

Full diagnosis!

[@rpster]

As someone finishing up the 2ZR swap on their own Yaris, if it comes down to pulling out the engine, I say go for the swap. If you can source a good 2ZR (or do the overhaul yourself like I did) it'll save you a ton of headache trying to diagnose what went wrong with the 1NZ. If you're willing to put in the labor, then an OEM+ swap is the way to go.

[@RassoolRacing]

Oh great! I might need to pick your brain about the swap. Can I use the original 1 NZ FE ECU, or do I need a 2ZR one? Might be hard to find a manual ecu

[@rpster]

@@RassoolRacing Gotta use the 2ZR ecu that matches your trans plus the harness. I found a manual XD that I could pull everything from, but I know others on the Yaris forum have done it with a Corolla/Matrix 2ZR manual ecu and re-pinned the harness themselves

[@fipfip3331]

Replace the oil pump and go from there. Just get a cheap aftermarket one.

[@jtac8]

Check some forums, the engine could be running well and you're stuck just because you're not sure if it has a solution or not. It might be useful as well if you want info abt engine swaps and all that

[@stevenhinkle6957]

I've never heard of a 1NZ oil pump failing. That's such a strange thing.

[@Kohju]

1.8 2zr-fe with cams and lighter flywheel. 💪

[@carlosfernandez2796]

Oh men 😢 but think, its time to swap 1nz engine or the 2nz forged 😮 good luck bro!

[@mrnimahadi]

as you said buying new engine is much easier than fix this but I really want to see what caused this issue with this engine

[@ggjesus5667]

Build the 1nz there aren't very many in the country. I love my yaris even stock they are fun as hell

[@thesimplyteez]

IMO, the fastest and cheapest fix may be the 1nz motor swap is best way to go. The yaris wouldn't be out for very long, and in theory, the swap should be plug and play. If you went with the Xd motor swap, it will take more money and more time. But on the other hand you'll have more power and you would get faster times on the track. Just whatever you do, please dont give up on the yaris!

[@tommydolo8044]

Check the oil pickup, clean it out or replace it. If no change them mess with oil pump. Unless you are just trying to find a reason to do a swap, then go big with a 2gr swap

[@mke723]

k-swap time. But seriously... Check your filter sandwich plate for debris, you can put your filter on dry, (not filled with oil) now that you changed the oil.. un plug the cam or crank position sensor, crank it over a few times on the starter ...is there oil IN the filter? as in the pump filled the filter.... could do it with out a filter on too to see if the pump kicks oil out of the filter location... slight mess, but easier than tearing it out... oil pick up could be clogged too.. usually 1 or 2 bolts to take off once pans off...blow some air thru it in reverse ..

[@kovacspis]

Been looking for the followup video man!

[@veritechzero]

get a new 1.5 to put in for now. Fix and build the old block out of the engine for something spicy a season or two down the road. It's how I run my drift cars, and it works pretty good. A straight swap between similar engines isn't too much of a task, but no matter how "drop in" another type of engine may seem there is ALWAYS unforeseen issues that crop up.

[@jimeerey]

Swap to boost performance and stats.

[@stellabckw2033]

i'd say repair it! it could still be something really obvious and not too difficult

[@robakunRT72]

I would pull it out and do a full blueprint and balance and try to prusue the ultimate OEM engine. Oil pump issue is just a trigger point to do it

[@xenon91]

if its 0 oil pressure, the engine is damaged. checking the cylinders with a endoscope will proably reveal enough.

[@landont2321]

What about maybe a 2zz? That lift is just amazing

[@HachiMiura]

SWAP! You need more power. Not sure if 2ZR is the best route, but really there's only so much you can do with a hair over 100hp. If you're anywhere in the 150-200hp range it should be a game changer. You don't need a ton of power since the car is so light, but still good to have a bit more.

[@yshaalan2011]

I think salvage the engine, the whole purpose was keep it running until it breaks, changing the engine is like changing a watches movement. You swap it with a donor heart.

[@waseembux7537]

Gotta start with the oil pump. I think you were at red line so much the oil pump gave up. You didn't upgrade the pump if I'm not mistaken ? I know for a fact toyota didn't design this oil pump to do high intensity rpm for prolonged durations.

[@obancameron]

Edit: probably your oil pump that failed and it hasn't caused severe damage yet. Toyota engines don't like high rpm on the pumps, go aftermarket if possible. Race crew chief here. 1st step is drop the oil and filter immediately and inspect both. The filter media will catch debris and metal that would indicate internal failure of some kind. No metal means it's not an internal failure and you can go from there diagnosing what's happening

[@bloodethirteen]

Same 1.5 + Blitz bolt-on supercharger

[@ChocolatBacon]

How much time would it take you to replace the oil pump, like one day? Do it for the channel and for the sake of learning, change the oil pump. 👍

[@ColinCKOV]

I've always wanted to see a built 1nz

[@totsdaniel8695]

Try to change the oil pump and if that doesn't work put a 1.8L in there

[@kimoliburd8829]

Go 2zr. The swap can be done in two days. Many people on the yards forums already did this so you can just ask for help. JDM 1NZ with electronic throttle has egr setup and its not more powerful than yours. 2zr is the best option at this time or just swap in another junkyard 1.5....

[@alexrodriguez353]

Big block swap would be cool

[@adowdell]

It wouldnt be terribly hard to rig up something to use like a bike pump to provide known oressure to the sensor to compare it to another gauge. The you could verify the sensor is mostly working.

[@hdoma6453]

just do what you thing is the most fun happy creator equals to fun video ✌✌

[@idjgamerelectro6769]

Try doing a 2zr fxe or 1nz fxe swap. The engines are from a Prius. Those engines have a Higher static compression than the fe variants. The FXE have a compression of 13:1 compared to 10.5:1 in the fe. To achieve the higher compression in the FXE is swapping the cams from the fe.

[@thedriverux]

I say salvage only because it could be a gamble on the lease amount of downtime.

[@connorbabcock7718]

For speed, why not a 1nzfxe? Could be done in a little over a month. 2zr would be awesome also but the Prius 1nz can be had for like $200 lol. Roman3s on here has made over 140hp out of a mostly stock 1nzfxe.

[@yazaldealmeida1442]

With currently owning a 2010 Yaris myself I am curious as to what it would take to do a 1.8L 2zr swap. Not much power can be made from the 1.5 unless forced induction is introduced which will hurt your reliability.

[@joaob.almeida5176]

Fix it, turbo the engine till it explodes and while that is happening get everything you need for the 2ZR ready.

[@meXicossie]

Those Toyota engines suffer from having a small pickup that is easily clogged & reads no oil pressure but the engine has in oil…I’d go with the 2zr

[@apatrenfo]

The frsport link isn't hyperlinked properly in the description, might want to fix that

[@materialpringle2299]

2zr swap, time to get a little more pep in the car

[@skylerturner6908]

New engine power upgrade

[@sonnyserrano5522]

Doing a 1.8 big block would be sweet to see. I have wanted a yaris to make a cheap track car for a while. Would love to know the time difference on the track of the 1.8 in the yaris.

[@advangs]

Pull the valve cover off, run the engine and see if oil is squirting on the cams.

[@mjiii232]

Try scanning your car with an obd scanner! They'll do it for free most of the shops you take it to

[@mjiii232]

Or you can always buy a scan tool also

[@mjiii232]

It will diagnose the issue and you'll be able to see exactly where the issue is stemming from whether it's electrical or mechanical

[@nomanjaved3968]

Hey man, i think you should go ahead and open up the oil pump. You never know what you might learn. Goodluck

[@Kanrinin01]

Just remove the oil filter and crank it. If there is oil, filter clogged or something else, if not, oil pump, as simple as that.

[@Noahh_jp]

I think it kind of depends… as cool as an engine swap would be, if you believe that you can still learn driving technique with a lower hp motor, then stick with the current one. However if you feel that the engine is holding you back, then engine swap it.

[@kovacspis]

What's the easiest way to integrate an aftermarket oil temp and pressure sensor into a factory system? As close to oem look in the engine bay as possible!

[@adowdell]

What are your goals with the car? You going B-soec or just time trials/HPDE? If no desire to go b-spec go 1.8L. Whats budget? Just slapping another 1.5L is probably pretty cheap... tight budget? Just find a used 1.5L and go.

[@adowdell]

More money to spend on tracks days will probably be a bigger benefit than bigger engine....

[@emmettsewell]

Maybe pull a 1ZZ or 2ZZ out of a celica? Was on a forum looking for my echo and saw a build with one

[@SidewaysGts]

IMO- Swap it. 1- Makes for some interesting content. 2- It seems like youre hitting that power wall. Its a neat car, but youre only ever going to go so fast with those lap times on a track with 100~ hp.

[@jano_142]

Its a long shot, but could it be a bad ground point

[@carplay5454]

This is your motor. Tear it down and rebuild it. Yes, it will take a lot of work. But what you learn in the process is something you can't find reading the forums. But if you think it's not worth your time, go ahead and do the swap.

[@hangrymachinist]

Out of curiosity who is your AMSOIL sponsor?

[@bodieguoshi5490]

2zr all the way brilliant engine

[@JFlogerzi]

Go for the swap only if you plan to stick with the car long term. Otherwise I vote getting a doner motor of the same kind.

[@sttutoob]

If you’re thinking about going 1.8 how about a 2zz on standalone instead of a 2zr

[@trvsball]

Swap if its in the budget , get junkyard 1.5 if it’s not . Simple really

[@TheOwenoliver1]

I had a car showing 0 and it was the oil solenoid that failed I have no idea if that's an engine out job but it could be an easy fix

[@kalanikeone3386]

I would like to see you get more into the investigation so that we that are not gonna pull motor and want to find out what that problem is

[@RassoolRacing]

I think I'm definitely going to open up the motor to find out what went wrong, I just don't want to be in a position where I have to rely on my skills to put it back together 😂

[@kalanikeone3386]

@@RassoolRacing that’s kool it’s awesome that you putting out these videos cause I’m trying to build my Yaris. And I like the ideas that you have. pulling the motor and going to a bigger xd motor. That’s sick. My build is mostly just to have the look of a ricer race car but mostly it’s all just for show. But when I wanna get on it it’s quick. I ordered air ride suspension for it cause my plate reads “ lo&slow”. But we all know that it’s quick and fun

[@kalanikeone3386]

@@RassoolRacing oh also got in contact with wk Motorsports and trying to purchase that same shifter you got. Just waiting for all the details. So thank you for that. Just out of curiosity we’re able to run the console and stock boot? Or you gutted your Yaris to the gauges. Oh you should check out “the interior mechanic. He has some good Yaris videos. Bigger brakes, bigger injectors and more

[@RassoolRacing]

@@kalanikeone3386 I never ran it with the center plastic in (mine was auto from the factory) the shift boot is not necessary though. Plus you want to see all that cool shiny metal 😜