Is this the Fastest Resin 3D Printer? Hitry Rocket 1 Resin 3D Printer Initial Look

Taking an initial look at the Hitry Rocket 1 Resin 3D Printer that prints top down and claims to print at amazing speeds while requiring no FEP or replacement screens. I will give you my initial feedback from using it over the past few weeks and show off some of the prints that I've been able to make on this 3D Printer.
If you'd like more info on the Rocket 1 or to back it on Kickstarter you can find more info here
www.kickstarter.com/projects/...
This is not a full review video as this is an early unit and might not represent entirely what is shipped out when the units launch later in 2022.
Files that I used during this include:
Scarlet Witch bust by Eastman
/ eastman
Boba Fett Bust by Fotis Mint
/ fotismint
Green Knight Head by Andrew Martin
www.artstation.com/marketplac...
D&D Minis by Archvillain Games
/ archvillaingames
Void Dragon by The Creature Armory
/ creaturearmory
Other files printed include files supplied by Hitry on the SD card
My PATREON including Resin 3D Printing Settings & Supports ➜ / unclejessy
Elegoo Mars 3 ➜ amzn.to/3CQqkTN
________________________________________________
Interested in other resin 3D Printers?
Peopoly Phenom ➜
www.matterhackers.com/store/l...
Epax X10 ➜
epax3d.com/products/epax-E10?...
Elegoo Mars ➜ amzn.to/2xvAJVr
Anycubic Mono X ➜ geni.us/dmQqQ
________________________________________________
Some Additional Items you will want to consider for Resin 3D Printing ➜
Full List - www.amazon.com/shop/unclejessy
Disposable Gloves - amzn.to/2Xjaxfo
Plastic Spatula - amzn.to/2Ijrhuy
Metal Spatula - amzn.to/2XgiHoS
Isopropyl (IPA) - amzn.to/2KoTsdY
Pickle Container - amzn.to/2KkWsrH
Funnel - amzn.to/2IjrrCa
Paint Filters - amzn.to/2XcpK1V
________________________________________________
Interested in getting a 3D Printer? Here are some that I use ➜
Ender 3 amzn.to/2GcCECB
CR-10 amzn.to/2Id9o1T
CR-10 S4 amzn.to/2UgWMbL
TinyMachines3D.com
www.tinymachines3d.com/?rfsn=...
________________________________________________
My PATREON ➜ / unclejessy
Buy Me a Coffee ➜ www.buymeacoffee.com/UncleJessy
_______________________________________________
Gear I'm Using ➜ www.amazon.com/shop/unclejessy
________________________________________________
Twitter ➜ / unclejessy4real
Instagram ➜ / unclejessy4real
Facebook ➜ / unclejessy4real
KZbin ➜ / unclejessy
________________________________________________
Thanks for watching!
SEND STUFF TO ➜
Uncle Jessy
PO BOX 629
25 Goodburlet RD
Henrietta, NY 14467
0:00 Intro to the Hitry Rocket 1
1:30 How it works
2:20 Disclaimer
3:00 Rocket 1 Details / Feedback
5:20 Chitubox / Lychee Support
6:03 Door / Internal Light
7:33 Buildplate / Vat
9:17 Buildplate Leveling
11:50 Resin Mess
14:20 Buildplate
16:00 VAT Cleaning
17:52 Hitry Resin
18:27 Print Removal
19:16 My 3D Printing Experience
21:22 3D Prints on the Rocket 1
25:28 Print Speed Comparison
27:52 Closing Statements
28:50 Patreon Shoutouts
29:08 Wrap Up

[@UncleJessy]

Might be my longest video I've ever published... lots to cover and talk about along with some impressive prints! Let me know what else you’d like to see in a followup video! Shortcuts below! 0:00 Intro to the Hitry Rocket 1 1:30 How it works 2:20 Disclaimer 3:00 Rocket 1 Details / Feedback 5:20 Chitubox / Lychee Support 6:03 Door / Internal Light 7:33 Buildplate / Vat 9:17 Buildplate Leveling 11:50 Resin Mess 14:20 Buildplate 16:00 VAT Cleaning 17:52 Hitry Resin 18:27 Print Removal 19:16 My 3D Printing Experience 21:22 3D Prints on the Rocket 1 25:28 Print Speed Comparison 27:52 Closing Statements 28:50 Patreon Shoutouts 29:08 Wrap Up

[@inky90]

Ironic

[@maximumdt5084]

Really enjoyed the longer video. 👍🍻

[@UncleJessy]

@Robert Hibbs vitiligo, in the summer when I have a tan you can see it more on my face, but it recently started turning my eyelashes white 🤘

[@J3DTech]

Id like to see some very close up pictures using your BEST quality printer VS this one using the same Resin, same model. Different settings. The idea isn't about FAST or no supports. The idea taking advantage of the best the printer can do. Does this printer make higher quality more accurate prints with less (layer lines, stepping, support damage higher detail? )

[@vvsandgaming4648]

I'm more into resolution than speed. Quality over quantity.

[@WestCoastChomeur]

It could be the future for resin printer, but for now it's clearly a prototype. But honestly, less time to print with less supports to waste, it's really a exciting promise !

[@UncleJessy]

For sure has promise but clearly more work to do. But still dang impressed by the prints I’m getting off it and the potential print times!

[@sadheartcreaciones]

This is the past of resin printers...

[@sethchapa1416]

I really think that this might be the future. Or at least a competitive alternate option for what we currently have. They just have to figure out their resin and vat situation. Maybe an automatic resin feeder kind of like the Jupiter would be a better system than a gigantic vat. It's clearly a prototype and there are some unfinished items. But I think putting it with creators like Uncle Jesse is a pretty good thing. They're going to give you the feedback that you need to polish the finished product

[@JorenMathews]

@@sadheartcreaciones This style of printer could be a game changer. You eliminate almost all stress on the print, allowing for way less/smaller supports. You remove a wearing part in the FEP. Pieces that get in your resin sink to the bottom and no longer can mess up a future print. It really just needs more design iterations to make it easier and less messy to use. I'm really not sure what the point of a gigantic vat of resin is. I'd also like to see it self-level, which shouldn't be too hard since the build plate undergoes relatively low forces. My big question is how does it even do layer height? How thick is a thin film of resin? However thick the resin sits on the surface, seems like it'd be your layer height.

[@Felix199393]

This... This is the way it was patented in 1984. It's a good comeback though

[@PolyWorkshop]

Lychee Slicer here: yes of course, we will do our best to support the Rocket 1 :)

[@dodger1x]

Even though this “prototype”/pre release model does show some faults. I do believe this way of top down printing shows some potential. Specially with a larger build volume , magnetic flex plate, autoleveing system of the buildplate instead and better spill prevention.

[@rookscastle3951]

You'd think they could raise the outer lip of the resin vat by like 1 cm to reduce/stop overflow.

[@daringdarius5686]

Like a lot of emerging technology, they do what they can, they have to sell the product (that they know is flawed and imperfect), hope enough sales make it through, and then try and re-engineer and overcome every original oversight. Many products, from cars to computers, to even simple tools, go through these steps. Software and Engineering is a process of try/fail/try again/fail less/try for the tenth time/barely fail. So, I give them credit for what they are trying to do, and had I the money I might send it their way and hope that before this launches, and/or on the second iteration of this printer, many of the initial oversights are fixed and improved upon. As it stands, this seems to have a large amount of potential. It just needs a LOT of quality of life improvements that were clearly not prioritized, as they prioritized speed and the tech to even achieve this.

[@Optix334]

How would it handle lowering resin? Say I've got a print that takes up a huge volume. The level of resin in the vat is going to lower over time. Do we know if there is any compensation for this? It seems like, best case, the actual usable build volume is much less as the resin volume of your print goes up.

[@nerys71]

@@Optix334 actually no. that should not happen. the VOLUME should not change at all in fact it might INCREASE hence the spill catch bucket. remember the AMOUNT of resin is not changing just its "state" (liquid versus solid) but its still the same MASS inside the vat. note I said MASS not volume. resin curing is exothermic (gets warm) I suspect so the plastic might expand ever so slightly when cured. which means the larger your print the more "spill" overflow will occur as the every so slightly larger now "solid" resin now expands. and of course ANY part of the model that captures an air pocket will further increase the volume consumed over the volume available.

[@clowns8421]

The printer should have a self-leveling gyro built in on the inside structure attached to the build plate and uv light and slider.

[@Ingram124]

I feel like this design definitely has some potential, i'd love to see a reservoir in the top of the printer and an autofeed feature, i think that would eliminate a lot of problems this machine has.. that and an auto levelling system for the build plate.

[@matsv201]

A pump from the overspill reservar to a tank, than back to the vat would solve several problem. The idea of a filler liquid seams like it would solve a few also

[@radry100]

There is probably a DLP projector inside as a light source. The downside of this type of design is, that the vat must always be full and as deep as the maximum print height, which means a lot of resin. There is a good reason most consumer printers project from bottom up.

[@davidnickisson2555]

It does have a non resin "filler" which the resin can float on which is to reduce the resin required I think?

[@Torey3D]

I actually appreciate the length of the video, there was a really comprehensive review of a potentially game-changing product, I'm very interested to see if they take any of your advice on the reservoir and vat system, given that if a super user like yourself would run into problems they would more than likely be 10 fold for other users. This is super interesting and I'll definitely be keeping my eyes on it, Thanks again (: (edit)I wonder if a flex plate style attachment to the print bed would help

[@UncleJessy]

Thanks. For that. Was really nervous uploading a 30 min vid when most of mine float around 6-12mins. I’m not sure a flex plate would allow the resin to seep as well as the current design does. Having that quick flow is critical for this machine

[@FuriousGriffin]

@@UncleJessy The flex plate could match the existing slot pattern on the plate. Also I was thinking it would be easier to empty if they had a turn valve with a flexible tube at the base of the tank, maybe even a "top up tank" leading into it with a float stop although it would have to be a fairly accurate float valve.

[@helixxharpell]

I used to work with the old style top down resin printers while at the University of Kentucky Robotics Lab 23 yrs ago! 😉 That "Secret Sauce" hasnt been a secret for 23 yrs. 😊 This is old tech miniaturized and bought into the hobby world. The old technology used directional laser light to "draw" each layer. Honestly, these guys have done a decent job of developing this tech but this rocket 1 has a world of little issues that needs to be dealt with. Ill wait until the bed size can get back to "old world" standards. Its just too small right now. Thanks Jessy for making this video sir!

[@MastaRhee]

They actually updated us, responding to the issues and showing the improvements they will make to address the issues. I'm looking forward to it 😁

[@harrelsontrumpets]

their updates do not account for the misrepresented printing speed, which is the primary messaging in the Kickstarter campaign

[@amandarichardson2406]

I'm actually impressed with this printer still. They've already published a response on what they plan to do and change to help with most of the issues (in 18 hours round about). I think I'm going to keep my pledge for now. I like the lack of FEP but I would like to see them develop or allow development of a flexible plate like the Wham Bam systems, but I think that will wait until after they release it into the wild. I also think that the top down that this is doing would allow us to better hollow out or even leave off a bottom of a design for reduced resin use and avoiding the interior of a print not curing properly. I am definitely curious like some other commenters just how transparent or translucent the clear resins get. The Siraya Tech Fast Green looked great, but what about straight clears? I'm thinking tabletop game spell effects, ice terrain, that sort of thing. The other thing I'm concerned about is why were you struggling with cleaning the small, miniature prints? Is there some reason that they aren't as strong as the versions coming off the Mars 3 or any of the "normal" resin printers? Or is it just the level of detail and size that makes cleaning them difficult in general?

[@northwales1000]

Certainly looks like a printer to avoid at least the first generation of printer.

[@Hellefleur]

Very tempting but at $700 preorder for what is currently a prototype it's not very reassuring. Maybe it's all those Kickstarter horror stories on my mind but I'd rather wait for the final build.

[@blatrump]

I would assume they use DMD projection (micro mirror array) with an UV-LED source. Those components alone cost a few hundred dollars.

[@ironknight132]

I'd like the echo the others here, I really appreciate the length of this video and your thoroughness covering such a novel printer type. Great work and thank you for doing this!

[@ajlbeer]

Thanks for this in depth look. This is definitely great content, well done!

[@Gizmo3DPrinters]

Nice to see they are using our old method of handling an overflow :) This is why our overflow is 20mm from the top of the vat. Always print on supports and it will fix your first layer issues. You really don't need to clean the vat after every print. We clean vats every few years.

[@C3DS]

Nice thank you so much. Been anticipating this review!

[@SargesCustoms]

Great and honest review of the Hitry Rocket 1! No issues at all with the length of the video. Probably not interested in getting one at the moment; however, it is a step in the next evolution of resin printing. Will be looking forward to more vids from ya on other prints from this beast.

[@paulb2474]

This looks like some amazing next step in resin printer tech, can't wait to see where we go in the future.

[@SILVERF0X13]

Definitely an interesting idea. I'll be interested to see how this style of machine works in the future and if future iterations can fix some of the glaring issues.

[@AndrewSink]

30 minute video?! Hang on, lemme grab some popcorn!

[@truenorth2615]

Well done. That was an excellent and balanced overview.

[@2SHEA]

I'm so excited for what the competition can bring. We need more top down resin printers in the market

[@IronMan-yg4qw]

awesome review. i been waiting to see this printer reviewed.

[@UncleJessy]

Thanks for checking it out

[@knucklepunchthedog]

Thanks for this super helpful video, since I’m a beginner of DLP, I gave up getting it.

[@betogaona3d.]

Very interesting and promising concept, I really hope they do great in their campaign.

[@NashMcilroy]

I feel the bucket could get a max file line, then raise all the walls, keeping the canal but making it less likely to spill at that line. Same with the bucket being enlarged. I am very excited to see this machine get some fixes before release. I cant wait to see how it changes the hobby.

[@keivnjones4520]

Thank you. I had been on the fence about this printer. I think I will pass. I will stick with my X10 and X156

[@IAMCUBEMAN]

To my knowledge, this was actually one of the first 3D printing technologies at all. Originally, I believe they used a laser from above, but the open vat top down design I believe is from the '80s. I'm sure it's been gate kept by patents until now or something along those lines. Nice to see they're using a projector, because that's just easier.

[@ClokworkGremlin]

Some of the earliest hobby resin printers also used the design. There are several reasons we mostly use bottom-up style printers these days.

[@Celticlo]

Number one thing to be changed in their design. It needs the auto feed mechanism from the Elegoo Jupiter

[@christophersaintdenis5965]

I saw this video after watching videos posted by the manufacturer. I think the manufacturer has done a great job in responding the issues you presented. I think most of that mess will been avoided with the new machine improvements, calibration, proper tools, enhanced work flow. In their response videos they are using a large syringe to transfer fluids. To bad you did not use a large syringe for the fluid transfers, but then again that mess you showed lead to major improvements in their vat design!

[@alexmh6131]

No Fep is already a big boon in resin print from my very sparse experience, and that design is so cool. But the main thing I like the most is that you can actually see the print from the word go instead of wondering if it's taken to the build plate before it actually is visible out of the resin! Very cool

[@marcobaldi9697]

Thank you so much Uncke Jessy, this confirmed my worries about the printer, still i wish HITRY the best as i think this tech is going to be the new standard future 3d printers

[@AT-gu8by]

Been waiting for this one.

[@srboromir452]

Just picked up the last early bird special on Kickstarter, been using resin printers since 2013, worked in 2017 to create a 3D printing department for a laboratory, grabbing this to have a toy at home to play with

[@dadsrcworkbench1322]

Thank you for doing this video. What a mess but there are hints of resin printing in the future.

[@UncleJessy]

Def a learning curve with it but impressive speeds and results!

[@victor-antonioali378]

Wow that was quick! 😱

[@theretardedbiker]

lol

[@FuriousGriffin]

I was thinking it would be easier to empty if they had a turn valve with a flexible tube at the base of the tank, maybe even a "top up tank" leading into it with a float stop although it would have to be a fairly accurate float valve. For the leveling they should have actual levels on it.

[@Celticlo]

The non-Fep method reminds me of the Peachy Printer (i was a backer in that Kickstarter fiasco) It was a laser projecting downwards into the vat using a drip feed system

[@tenchuu007]

Good review. Having backed 400+ Kickstarters, I know a prototype that's not even the alpha you should ship to reviewers when I see one. Tiny build plate and a massive toxic mess with a bad bed surface. Great tech that I'm sure will be worth investing in by version 2 or 3, but right now it sure isn't worth swapping FEPs for that junk.

[@TheM750]

That seems to be a super harsh take on a working demo model, especially given the history of 3D printing vaporware on Kickstarter. Did you miss the part at the end where it was printing faster, and better quality, that the Mars 3? "Junk" seems pretty unfair.

[@tenchuu007]

@@TheM750 I've seen dozens of working demo models. Actually, more like hundreds, and this is one of the very few to be at a level where A. user error is extremely likely and going to cause failures and toxic messes B. Things look awfully slapped together and half baked, like the tape door and its poor kickstand to hold it open and C. Without solutions to things that clearly should have shown up with the minimum of testing, like the spilling tray in the front and the floating resin fragments. I've backes projects that turned into vaporware with MUCH more refined prototypes. If Jesse wasn't nice enough to keep trying for days to get it operational, which I'm sure the vast majority of reviewers won't be, we wouldn't be seeing a review at all.

[@TheM750]

@@tenchuu007 Have you looked at their most recent update, they've already redesigned to address the issues brought up in this video. Seems like their team is pretty on top of it. Also, living hinges (look it up) are common on acrylic doors. Jessy even pointed out that on the backside it looks rubbery. Not sure why the tape is on the front, though I would guess it's an ugly glue joint on a pre-production unit.

[@tenchuu007]

@@TheM750 I know what a living hinge is. I also know what a prototype for a 600 dollar machine should look like. I don't need to look at their update. Like I said, I will wait for Gen 2 unless they magically doubled the build plate size in every direction.

[@TheM750]

@@tenchuu007 Well, I'll give you that, I'd like to see a bigger build volume as well.

[@Legion180XXX]

Great video!

[@stonestef]

Such a mess.. Even if it is user error, the most possible is that everyone will run into these issues when starting with it. I was excited to see how this works but now I am disappointed. I hope they find a way to make it less messy in the future.

[@3DJapan]

And the vat is SO full. If someone knocked it over you'd have a huge mess compared to knocking over other printers.

[@EvanEdwards]

@@3DJapan According to the Kickstarter, it is mostly filled with an inert liquid that the actual resin floats above.

[@Lemming1970]

Interesting idea. At first I was thinking how does it allow for the resin used, Then realised the level stays the same because the cured resin is still in the vat, So the volume of resin doesn't alter, it's just a liquid or solid state. I'm guessing the time saving is the fact it doesn't have to move/release between layers, just drops down the 0.005mm and hits it with the light again. Does look very messy though. looks like it needs a LOT more splash guards etc.

[@Felix199393]

True, but if you have halfway hollow parts it could be a pain though. My guess is that there is an overflow somewhere. That concept is about 40 years old, though. I bet either someone does already have a lot of solutions for such problems, or that's why we switched to FEP films for more modern printers (than from the1980s)

[@flioink]

Been looking forward for this setup to make its way to the mainstream. Only seen "straight up" resin printers on obscure videos about industrial applications.

[@maximus951989]

Reminds me of Small Soldiers, This is really cool tech and I will be fascinated to see how it develops with time.

[@ezraindustries6175]

Pretty excited for the next gen of this tech. I think for it to be actually easier than standard ones they're going to need to install a laser or sensor of some sort that will detect the exact level of resin in the vat and line up the plate for you

[@ethansdad3d]

This seems awesome. I'd be interested in seeing a more technical video on how the layers are built up using this method.

[@kiwiopto]

Thanks for your efforts so far. Did they send you any transparent resin as a number of us would like to see how clear the prints are. They suggest they can print spectacle lenses from one clip in the promo video. I'm interested in how clear some smaller optical elements would print. If you could print even a thin plain "window" it would be greatly appreciated. Keep up the good work. EXCELLENT video.

[@Birb_of_Judge]

I'm very intrigued. Just got my Photon mono. I think I'll have to be happy with that for the time being

[@allenl9214]

Are you able to do test prints on the max resolution possible to see how detailed and smooth prints come out? Possibly with jewelry pieces with tiny millgrain details to see if its suitable for jewelry considering there are 8k printers available now

[@nyverdaletabletop1674]

I was on the fence of backing this, glad I did not I hate resin mess cant Imagine having a good time with this much spillage. Leveling seems really painfully hard as well. Thanks for the critical review Uncle Jessy

[@matsv201]

This is a great idea. The other day a saw a person joking about a upside down resin printer, as soon as someone invented anti-gravity... well. here it is. The idea with a filler liquid is brilliant. While it would make the printer a bit more complicated, there are some improvement that could be made. Like a resin pump. This way with a simple pump and a few one way valves, the surface could be skilled like in a pool. It could actually be so while printing. If a second pump is added to the filler liquid the resin could be totally drains and the pats that fell to the bottom could also be skimmed (any part falling would float on the filler liquid). There is a mechanical device that can separate two liquids of different densities fully automatic. The overflow vat could be connected directly to one of those, then down to jugs at the foot end of the printer. Also driving the filler liquid pump backwards would empty the vat, that could be a nice feature. This could also ad a sort of auto cleaning feature if the heavy fluid also was a cleaning agent. As well as auto storage, and auto rotation of the printing fluid.. and even with added pumps auto liquid change. (could even change liquid mid print, granted, it would take a minute or two, so one you probobly wouldn´t want to do on every layer. Granted, if the liquid over the fill liquid is very thin, it could be quite quick.). A few short suggestions *the design of the bed might need a other iteration with a mix of small and big holes. *A G-code that is aware of the holes in the build plate, not hardening there for the first few layers. * Automatic machine leveling (well yea, i guess that would be a premium feature) * A mirror on top to take the projector down a bit The idea is brilliant.. and it looks like its a decent first iteration. Now i want to see brilliant improvements.

[@benjaminsmith2367]

Hopefully they will be able to fix some of these problems with further machines. Definitely a redesign of the overflow sections, the build plate, and some way to make cleaning easier.

[@hitry1413]

Thanks for all the suggestions! We've made some improvement on it, please check details on our last update: www.kickstarter.com/projects/rocket1/rocket-1-worlds-fastest-and-most-accurate-dclf-3d-printer/posts/3402543 1)Resin mess The resin leaks out because the table is not flat enough or not leveled well, and the side panels are not wide enough. The platform drops fast before printing, which leads to the flow of extruded resin to the overflow groove of the trough, but the overflow groove of the side panels are too small to quickly discharge the resin at the edge to the collection box, so there will be some resin over the edge of the trough. To solve this problem and avoid resin messy when using, we decide to enlarge the side panels by 10mm and deepen it by 5mm to allow more space to drain the overflowing resin quickly. 2)Resin leaking from the bottom of the tank It is because the resin collection bucket is small, and it will easily overflow outside if you use it for long time printing. In the future, we will more than double the capacity of the resin collection bucket to ensure that the resin will not leak out even after a long period of printing. 3)Build plate resin cleanup & prints removal In the video, the build plate left some messy cured resin and was hard to clean up. This is because the platform is too fast before printing down, the trough resin extrusion out too much out, resulting in the resin level than we set the reference surface lower a lot, UV long platform air exposure, the platform is not completely soaked in resin, so the resin will have been cured very deep and solid on the build plate. To get rid of this problem, the platform's first descent speed should be reduced to avoid rapid extrusion, and other printing parameters can remain the same, it will have no effect on the printing speed. Here is demo video showing the full process of removing the print off the build plate: kzbin.info/www/bejne/b3XZf4afbJmMZs0 4)The print sits at the bottom of the vat when completes We’ve sent out the original system to Uncle Jessy in mid-November since the new system is not complete at that time, the final version will be all built-in new system and automatically lifted when printing is complete. 5)Resin easily cured in resin collection bucket The resin collection bucket is transparent now, and the edge resin is easily cured by the influence of light. We will change the bucket into a translucent dark color, which will not be affected by light. 6)Printing Failed & model floats on the resin This happens because the tank resin may be too full or the platform may drop too low. This causes the resin to cover the platform, causing the model to cure on the liquid, not on the platform. To make a perfect printing and get rid of the failure, the resin should not be poured too full when printing (about 1㎜ down from the base of the tank, a scale will be set inside the tank); adjust the first printing height of the platform, and we have widened and deepened the side panels of the tank. 7)Not easy to pour the resin back into the bottle Because the capacity of the tank is 3.7kg, there is a syringe included in the package. You can use the syringe to draw out some of it first, and then just pour the resin in the tank back into the bottle. 8)USB Port on the back of machine Previously designed with aesthetics in mind, the USB port was placed on the back of Rocket1. Our mold has been opened, modifying this requires repairing the mold, which is super expensive. We will collect and listen to your voice to decide if we need to change it to the front of the machine. 9)Power cable is short Other printers in the market are also with this kind of power cord, and we will try to purchase the power cord longer than 1.5 meters. 10)Not easy to keep the printing door wide open It may be because it is not stuck properly or the door jamming device is not perfect. We will change the larger card door device, and can open the door to the maximum. 11)The internal light is always on The light is designed to allow a clear view of the model, and we will consider adding a switch to control it in the future. Once again, thanks for your support and love. Please have faith in us and we will keep improving our product and make it better.

[@maxcn36]

Thanks for the responses I believe you guys can do it !

[@RocketRobGaming]

Great to see such a quick and thorough response

[@eabelcourt]

Hi Hitry, just some thoughts: 1) Seems reasonable! 2) I'm surprised the resin collection bucket will still be needed if you increase the trough and wall size so it feeds back into the main tank. It seems inefficient to have that trough and adds a point of leakage contention or failure. As UJ has pointed out you have no pour point, instead of a sharp trough/wall, you could have a a wall that exceeds the height by about 1-2 cm above the minimum required level of the tank and a gradual incline so that when the tank raises and lowers the "overflowing" resin just rises and lowers against the sloping wall. A bit like a sea wall wave defence/beach? This would only need a change in the bucket design to remove the catch tank. 3) Interesting, so the acceleration is pushing the cured resin down between the grooves? Instead of very large/wide grooves, would a substantial number of smaller holes be more suitable? Like 2-4mm hole pattern? A lot like the large format printers that need to have holes in the plate to allow resin to quickly slough off the plate. 4) Nice, it looks like the original code style was that it was a normal printer just flipped upside down so the Z axis "moves up" down towards the ground (like a Mars or so) and when the Mars finishes its print, it raises it up 5) Nice, but still, point 2. 6) Fairy snuff 7) If I were to buy one of these, I'd think about drilling a hole int he bottom of the tank and installing a release valve to get out the vast majority of the resin via the valve. But it can be messy and cured resin the valve can be a PITA. But may be worth thinking about, will make removal of resin very quick and easy, as well as optimise removal of just the filler liquid first? 8) Hopefully you can find away, in every printer nowadays, if it's not on the front it's a pain 9) for the power socket at the height off the table that it is, definitely need a longer cable. 10) I'm surprised a basic locking hinge is not being used here and instead opting for a fabric door hinge which is quite easy to break through wear and tear 11) Definitely a switch or just remove the component entirely. If people want to see their print, they can use their own lighting system or the ambient lighting. I was wary this might be one of those vapor tech that looked great on paper but actually seeing it work and the quality it is printing. It's very (very) good quality for a first offering. Lastly, offering something like a metal/silicone whisk into your toolkit to mix up the resin in the tank would go a long way. I'm surprised Jessy didn't use one.

[@hitry1413]

@@maxcn36 Thank you for your support, we will do better with your support

[@hitry1413]

@@RocketRobGaming Thank you for your support, we will do better with your support

[@aduchene6091]

Thanks for the time you took to highlight this printer. I have been interested in this printer and now understand the drawbacks and successes of it. I like the print quality when it works but do not like the messiness of it. Hopefully, further iterations of this technology will work to clean up the process.

[@williamhoover6902]

innovative. I like the lack of FEP. I think we are seeing the beginning of a good evolution. It will be interesting to see where this is after a couple of printer redesigns.

[@markburton5292]

this works a lot like my safire printer. Biggest issue i had with this style of printing is you have to use resin that has a low viscosity and surface tension. it also does not print top flat surfaces very well as it would dome some what. this made it some what inaccurate and you would also see it on spheres and spheres usually. would be interesting to see if this printer has the same limitations. to test for that try printing a cube with it top flat orientated parallel to the build plate and to print a sphere. those inaccuracy's are harder to see on miniatures though but i did run into it when printing tachikomas from ghost in the shell. the eyes and the tank domes would be slightly domed when comparing to a printer like the mars. eventually i stopped using my safire because of that and the lack of slicer support ( it had its own software you had to use)

[@UncleJessy]

Oh thanks foe that callout. I can take a look at that with a followup video

[@nerys71]

This EXACTLY is what I wondered. how in the world does it control the "amount" of resin that is on top ??? since now "flow characteristics" and "viscosity" will start to play a simple massive role in the outcome. obviously not to a huge degree as his prints look great but it is interesting from a technical point of view.

[@RichardThompsonCA]

Interesting, did you ever have any trouble printing certain shapes with that printer. I've got a mars and I can't get any decent print out of a "cup" shaped model. Like, well, a cup, or bullet casing, jar, etc. I've tried every orientation I can think of, they always end up wonky and deformed and I can only assume it's the forces in swirling in the tank. I've done things like drain holes but then it's a paint to fix. I considered sending it out to a print farm but I got quotes of about $500, just for the bottom, no lid. So, no.

[@glenfoxh]

One thing I can think of is make a test print, where the bottom of the print itself is shaped the same as the build plate, so as to only sit on the metal of the plate. Once you have that, you can use that every time as the bottom of every print, so you don't have resin curing down in the holes of the build plate. Also, could be helpful to yourself to make a wall around the outer edge of the resin tank, to help keep the resin from leaking over the edge. I would also suggest to place something on the top of the inside, to help protect the projector form splashing when filling.

[@BektostheBlackBlade]

If I was reviewing it I'd say it needs an actual leveling system like having two sets of bubble levels (one in the front and one on the side) to help you know that your vat is level. I'd also say that the vat should slide in and out rather than be lifted. Another thing I think should be in there is a filter of sorts that would go into the vat to catch the excess hardened resin that you could take out and empty. As for being top heavy I'd say they could make the base more weighted or wider to make up for it. I think you hit everything else pretty well on how it could be improved.

[@RichardThompsonCA]

I'm looking forward to seeing more from this style of printer, "top down". This is what some of the commercial printers are like. I wonder if it will allow for the printing of more difficult shapes that don't work well on a current "bottom up" printer. Right now I am batting like 0/100 at printing cup shapes. All the forces and suction. It stays stuck to the build plate but comes out warped af. This style might be what I need to make mold masters. Great vid!

[@harrelsontrumpets]

I'm grateful that you posted a link to this independent review as I have learned from past Kickstarter experiences that a product can appear to be great when not independently tested. With that said, I am cancelling my pledge as I see now that this product has not been thoroughly tested, nor is it ready for production. I would recommend buying (and using) the top 10 resin printers before finishing your development on the Rocket 1. My biggest complaints are as follows: 1) 4 liters of resin needed to print anything (why waste resin?) 2) The machine is too large and top heavy considering the relatively small print area. 3) I have had many 3d printers and none of them have been messy. I don't want resin dripping out of my machine. 4) The USB port has to be on the front of the machine. This mistake shows the lack of research performed by your team. Even my 2004 CNC lathes have ports in the front. 5) Intentionally misrepresenting the speed of your printer AND making this the main message of your Kickstarter campaign is unethical, which is the main reason I have adjusted my pledge to $1. Honesty is more important than any other factor when dealing with people in business.

[@danovski]

This is the next step in my opinion. The competition must have gotten new ideas to work on. Needs development but has potential.

[@Antmanpictures]

the anziety of watching a video wabout 3d printing and hearing a unexpected beep when currently have a print going. 4:40 had my heart in my stomach for a second.

[@samtoshner8002]

A good practice for resin printers is a stainless steel tray underneath. These can be found at food service supply stores such as Cash and Carry. Paper towels will contain the mess but not provide total containment since the resin can soak through to the surface underneath.

[@AlphaEngineer2022]

Wow! This looks fantastic! With no suction from an FEP sheet you’ll barely get any failed prints as that’s half the problem most of the time, cleaning it without damaging it is a nightmare and the sheets are fairly expensive, this machine needs some tweaks but I strongly believe this is the future of resin printing 🤟😀

[@popltree2]

Seems like a few of integrated bubble levels would help with making sure it’s level. Front, back, and a round bubble level on top maybe?

[@dodger1x]

I’m choosing to believe that it was my comment on their release video that convinced them to send one to UncleJ 😉You’re welcome😅

[@UncleJessy]

🤘🤘 thanks for the support

[@dodger1x]

@@UncleJessy your welcome.And sorry for the mess.

[@nostrodamus1980]

the size of the bottom of that thing it could have a pump system that cycles, fills and filters the resin after prints or something so dont have awkwardly fill it through the front. Its very interesting and a step to the future

[@ScottLahteine]

If they fix the vat overflow (with a fluted top plus light guards) and put both the vat and light projector on gimbals that automatically level to the Earth when loosened, this could be a great printer. The elimination of a peel step guarantees a higher print speed than most resin printers can accomplish. The main drawback is the requirement to use such a large volume of resin, but perhaps they could provide smaller vats for smaller jobs, or make the vat into an accordion (patent pending) that collapses from the bottom up.

[@cryofpaine]

I would rather take an extra half hour to print rather than have to add 4 bottles of resin for every print.

[@Exxis645]

@@cryofpaine The final product does not use 4 bottles of resin. it uses a water/filler liquid mix where the resin floats on top. They advertise that you only need to use a regular vat amount of resin per print, but you will need that filler liquid under the resin for it to float on.

[@reasonablebeing5392]

Cool concept - like all new printers, it will have some teething issues. I have not done any resin printing yet. I was an early adopter of FDM printers and all of the learning curve work that went with them. I'll let you guys get this resin printing stuff all worked out then I will dive in. :) My suggestion would be an overflow drain with a hose to connect to a larger collection bottle (used resin bottle?).

[@jondoe230]

I've only done resin printing and kind of want to do FDM. But I feel the same way about FDM as you do about resin :P

[@gaming4fun419]

Strangely I've found that for those very delicate prints I often get better results using my Dremel when trying to sand by hand risks me breaking a part. It takes a steady hand and at times a bit of support behind the delicate part. I find that a high speed and barely touching the piece works great.

[@greenskinzgaming5188]

Love your content. You really helped me get informed about 3d printing. Question for you: How do I keep my printing area clean?It looks like a disaster. Resin everywhere. Even when I try to be neat and use a tray.

[@LeadSkillets]

Interesting design and definitely has potential. The whole vat situation needs a ton of refinement. The vat needs higher sides to prevent unwanted spillage. A lidar type system could be used to find the resin & buildplate height, eliminating the need for super-precise resin to buildplate alignment. It would also reduce the need for a spillover tank. The lidar could also be used to find level and provide a leveling gui to help the user perfectly level the printer. There's probably many other ways to further reduce the massive mess the prototype has.

[@grogne-au-vent9380]

Nice innovation from Hitry. The second or even third generation of this will start to get interesting. For now, there are too many quicks to iron out. Thanks you for getting all messy for us. ;-)

[@loon_gaming_88]

This was the way a lot of prototype models or toys were made, except the size of the printers were much larger and it shot several UV lights instead of one. I hope the make this design more efficient because I prefer this printing like this instead of upside and having to worrying about supports. This will definitely bring down the amount of supports needed, but you will still need to keep a large supply of resin on hand to keep the vat filled.

[@Marco-Tusenartist]

Milkshake 3D printer had the same idea but much better execution. Regardless after being scammed on Kickstarter a third time (which was a 3D printer reviewed on KZbin) I will never use that platform ever again

[@jianweitu4354]

Hello, thanks for the video. I have a question: is Rocket 1 actually a continuous printer as Hitry claims?

[@gentlemanbear]

You could always use a little transfer pump to get the resin both out of and into the vat. You can get one for $20-30. My Gizi is equipped with a built in pump for this.

[@tmilker]

2:45 The out of focus shot of the printer while Uncle Jessy is in focus makes it appear even bigger. 🤣

[@UncleJessy]

😂🤣

[@agentholmes369]

I think resin being super sensitive to light is made sense in technological point, it will help to reduce print time,(less power to cure the resin,less time to print ) clearly this printer will be a game changer

[@JohnJones-oy3md]

The 'filling liquid' that sinks to the bottom of the vat and allows you to print without a full vat of resin is an interesting twist.

[@UncleJessy]

Agreed. Really interested. Seeing how that all plays out especially with changing resins/colors

[@TheAegisClaw]

It's a great idea. Maybe worth waiting for V2 of it. 1. Why not have the outer lip of the drain groove much higher to completely prevent spills? 2. Why not include levelling bubbles on the vat so users can get it right first time? 3. The door needs sorting, that's inexcusable. 4. Have a drain plug at the bottom of the vat for easy pouring back into containers. 5. Have a replaceable filter for that drain hole.

[@rotwang2000]

I do welcome the concept, will look at it once somebody has figured a better configuration and the tech has matured further, like better leveling, spillover guards etc.

[@devonsharkey414]

An internal leveling sensor that gives feedback (perhaps on the touchscreen) while leveling the machine would probably be helpful.

[@Zeldur]

How do you clean up spilled resin? Just a ton of paper towels and iso alcohol? Oh, and that printer looks really, really cool. Printing from the top down with resin? Amazing.

[@guyb7995]

Great concept and development, but the biggest fundamental issue to me is the amount of resin needed in the vat which is basically the same volume as the build volume of the printer, so that problem only gets worse for larger print volume printers. Changing resin appears to be a real pain too because of that volume you need to deal with. Most of the other things can be improved to become a non issue. I am amazed how accurate the layer thickness is noting it is only depending on the viscosity of a free flowing liquid. A thin resin would flow more making the layers thinner and causing layer separation. Temperate effects viscosity too it is likely more sensitive to ambient temperature as well, maybe that played a part in what happened to that last big print failure.

[@donkeyholmes4581]

Like most things that look good on the outside, they are a mess inside. The cons far outweigh the faster (slightly after you factor in mess and cleanup) printing.

[@MarkMichalowski]

Yep! I already don't use my existing resin printer as much as I thought I would because of the slog of cleanup (and adding and removing supports, which this at least has the potential to get rid of altogether) - if I had one that needed THIS much resin and made THIS much mess, I'm not sure I'd EVER use it - LOL.

[@tiloalo]

@@MarkMichalowski wash and cure station mostly solve the mess issue for regular resin printer. Let the print drip and drop the plate and model all together in the wash station. I don't really deal with uncure resin anymore.

[@MarkMichalowski]

@@tiloalo Yeah, I guess a W&C station would help a lot, but with no pennies in the bank, it's currently a no-go, sadly :(

[@BeardClipper]

@@MarkMichalowski (if you are using water washable resin:) get yourself a washing up bowl, put warm soapy water in and drop the whole thing in that and leave it to soak for 20 or 30 mins... (if you are using not-water-washable resin:) get yourself a sealable storage box (one of those click lock boxes) and put 99% alcohol in... drop whole thing in... leave to soak :) I've built an alcohol and water cleaning thing as well using one of those click lock boxes and a couple of cheap UV lights; I can wash my models, then put the liquid into the box and leave the lights on it for a few hours and then strain all the cured resin out and reuse the liquid. recycling ftw :)

[@MarkMichalowski]

@@BeardClipper That's what I do now - wash in soapy water, then IPA. Still faffier than filament - LOL!

[@jquickri]

Do you have like a top ten resins video or list somewhere? I've been using elgoo grey water wash but I was thinking about changing to something else.

[@meepothegreat]

This definitely answered some of my projected fears about this machine. I love the design but dealing with the vat overflow fills me with anxiety. I was debating jumping on this to upgrade from my photon s but now I might look at the elegoo.

[@bl00dthrister]

What I would've loved to know is the printing quality. The Elegoo's print looks like the lines are less sharp. Do you think it's worth the kickstarter price?

[@korbyynbear5592]

Cool to see a new tech being tried out... That said, I think I'll wait and see how it goes, and if some user friendlier developments happen (3.5 bottles to print...ouch!)

[@danielmorgan5949]

This is really interesting and has a lot of potential, but it clearly still has a few kinks to work out. I think that they need to add some kind of spirit-level to help make sure this machine is resting on a completely flat surface. Maybe they could cut down on the mess slightly by adding a means to pour resin into the vat from outside of the machine in a similar method to how one would pour fuel into a car. Also, they should add a meter to indicate when you have completely filled the vat with resin.

[@poodlescone9700]

The company could increase the height of the container and remove the overflow reservoir entirely. The large container seems to let the particles sink to the bottom. So that seems to be a benefit to avoid having those particles interfere with the print. There should be a tool included to let people know the correct resin depth height relative to the build plate.

[@Mobile_Dom]

half hour video? leme get my coffee, this gon' be good

[@nazaritejoe1986]

Thanks for reviewing this! I'm keen to keep an eye on this as it evolves, but this first generation seems like a mess, and certainly not something I'd want to try to tackle as a first time printer. It's be a surefire way to get someone to never try printing again.

[@UncleJessy]

Yeah it might not be the best machine for first time printers

[@technicallyartistic]

Any chance you can show what your setup and settings were? I can't get my prints working on this thing.

[@spacespeak21]

Given the height of this machine I think the leveling problem could be fixed by tweaking the design to include a short bar sticking out from the top and hanging a plumb bob from it. That in turn should line up with a bar with a pin near the bottom of the printer. Once you've adjusted the legs to align the plumb bob over the bottom pin, you'd have a leveled reservoir. Couple that with a lower z axis setting and you'd eliminate the resin overflow that you experienced.

[@Dark0Storm]

For levelling does it have a fisheye/bullseye spirit level, (like you see on survey equipment)? If not that might be a good addition as a visual aid to help people get it set up level in the first place.

[@JonS]

I remember someone else trying this approach. I'm trying to remember the name of the printer. I have a vague feeling it was legal action that shut them down. It's annoying that it bottoms out at the end of the print. That prevents you from putting marbles in the bottom to reduce the amount of resin needed if you're printing a less than full height print. That toad looks more like 3.5cm tall, not 3.5mm! The overflow cup looks like the one on my Instant Pot. It looks like they just used something off the shelf for that, which is probably why it's on the small side.

[@bitzbox]

Great idea, great speeds and the prints look amazing however I really don't like the idea of having to have a large vat that's perfectly level and that overspills. They really could be onto something though if they can iron out all of the issues

[@shleeabcd]

Thanks for the sharing, by the new 3d printing method,does it mean we can get rid of most of support material? also it seems level adjustment is extremely important now..

[@jonkelly7908]

Levelling has always been important, the difference is you are levelling the resin to the build plate, instead of visa versa.