How much can you print with 1 bottle of resin? | Elegoo Saturn / Elegoo Mars 2 Pro

[@IRSculpts]

That Joker bust is SICK!!! Such a beautiful file to see printed! Great video as always!

[@rolfathan]

I've wanted exactly this kind of video for so long.

[@brianfoster7064]

I would like to see you print the same files instead of different ones. That would be a better comparison.

[@genin69]

was that a 1kg resin bottle? so the Saturn ended up doing close to 1kg, 940g, probably 60g left in printer. thats an excellent turn around

[@Kumodot]

When you say bottle on the title you could add the size (1000L/g ? 500L/g) ? It's implied on the size of it and on the video but that's an important info to be in our face. Thanks for the video !

[@socool1821]

it looks like it says 1000g on the bottle

[@calinguga]

it's 1000g / 1L (for water, i don't know what density the resin has). 1000 L is literally a ton of water.

[@hiiiiii9886]

He shows the bottle don’t be that guy..

[@NeoIsrafil]

@@hiiiiii9886 it would have been nice to know, some of us watch on our phones...lol. hard to see the bottle text.

[@korbyynbear5592]

Glad Elegoo is sponsoring awesome people like Uncle Jessy, they certainly aren't putting any tine or money into customer service and satisfaction.

[@angrydragonslayer]

They are putting in more than the competition Anycubic let the domain for their support site lapse in 2016 and it took them nearly 4 months to set up a support contact form.

[@Section31HQ]

Took your advice. Looked every day in Amazon and now I finally have one.

[@StumblingBumblingIdiot]

Great video as i always wondered about this but my main thought was towards FDM printing and resin. To me it doesn't seem like a lot of mini's for a whole bottle of resin, especially if they are hollowed. I would love to see a resin to FDM comparison for 1kg of each and printing the same things! Of course fdm is not nearly as good for minis and such but some of the bigger busts would be a great comparison! Seems even more expensive to print in resin than I first thought :(

[@TekGeekDad]

Awesome, maybe print same files on each next time. Also would be great to see you go through the process of hollowing and support for an sla prior to printing on Saturn. Thanks good stuff!

[@UncleJessy]

Thanks! I have an upcoming video covering the Hollowing/supporting and my settings on the saturn coming up soon! Will also be covering Chitubox & Lychee with that

[@aaronbyrne-colgan186]

@@UncleJessy Looking forward to seeing that one dude!

[@wingsOfAnthrax]

these imperial measurements confuse me

[@InstabilerStoff]

This exact "conversions" seems to be happening over and over again. "oh you wont believe i hacked my gfs insta!" "wow it took me 20 min (probably the time they need to steal your bankinfo) but it really worked!" Please dont be scammed ppl.

[@philk6906]

These results totally makes sense. If you think about surface area, the smaller items have a lot more surface area by volume than the larger items. It's more area for uncured resin to stick to and be washed away. plus if you look at the supports, and the fail print opportunity... I don't know if it's about the machine, If we weighed the left over resin from the minis it would have been better analysis. For large prints though, you got 72% out of the bottle onto your prints. That's pretty impressive. 39% for the minis is a bit of an eye opener, but there is no getting past physics and fluid mechanics. That's a big loss, but if you are at $36.00 bottle that is still about $1.00 per mini.

[@markbailey8201]

Has I've only just got a printer this week this video has really give me ideas thanks

[@UncleJessy]

Glad it helped

[@romeo.3472]

Just bought a Mars 2 Pro last week. Loving it.

[@tonykyle2655]

This is an apple to oranges. To really know which printer is more efficient you would need to print the same items between the 2 printers. Wonderful prints, but we cannot make any decisions based on this.

[@swc2001]

I believe you have a good thought, but there would be almost no difference. Actually a test like you suggested would probably make the Saturn look bad. The amount of Resin in the bottom of the vat would be a thinner height for the same amount of Resin between the two machines. Really there is no way to have an apples to apples fight between different weight classes of machines. It's the same thing if you were putting the Saturn vs. the Phenom. A good thought for sure, but just trying to tap your rudder a little bit to see why what he did was pretty perfect. Just my .02

[@charlesballard5251]

I believe he was just checking to see how much you could print with a bottle of resin. He was not rating the printers themselves.

[@Alientcp]

Same result over all. The test was to see how much you could print with a bottle with minis and how much you could print with larger figures so you could plan ahead on your own projects and have an estimate on how much resin you need to complete it. It wasnt a performance benchmark between printers.

[@3DZipGuy]

Very useful stuff. Especially if you're trying to make a living with 3D printing.

[@electronicsandewastescrapp7384]

this is such a tease! I want one, BAD. Sold out and no idea when back in stock. I'm going to wait though, this one seems by far the best of the 4k mono options.

[@hc-nj3ve]

Honestly, it's more complicated than that though. I wanted the Saturn at first but then I saw the ridiculous pixel density results of the Sonic Mini 4K and switched to that. Nothing sub $2k can compete with the detail if you're willing to give up some build space.

[@dangbabby1092]

I’m really happy I found your show. I’ve been wanting to get a 3D printer Was thinking of not going with resin dippers. But, I think you prove me wrong and show me the light. I watched the 99$ lite 3dp I am having a hard time finding it. I think it’s so fun.

[@ethansdad3d]

Great info. How does running out of resin damage the FEP film?

[@rstainsbury]

urgh, Imperial units!

[@orhanyor]

video was going so good until those gibberish numbers hit the screen lol

[@lazyman1011]

😭📏⚖️

[@jaredjones6570]

Lol I'm American and I feel the same way. Gimme the kilograms

[@moonlight39echo]

I'm American, I use the metric system, this hurts me

[@pushkarbokarey]

🙄

[@NewbridgePiano]

i know what you can make with those skulls. The logo of Xcom 2 has a Sectoids head built with human skulls

[@UncleJessy]

Oh nice call!

[@WilliamReichlein]

So the answer to the question of "How much can you print with one bottle of resin?" is "Never enough!"

[@coreyg3658]

Just ordered one of these, my first ever. Wish me luck

[@bentebrunsvelt319]

Super cool many print👍👍great from Holland

[@wallyortizjr71]

Thank you for sharing this video. Question? Are we able to print a love one or is it limited?

[@lubovgeorgeable]

Great idea for a video. A+ for originality. Keep it up

[@3DPrintedProps]

Great Vid Man!!

[@xenoserum]

Very nice, love the miniatures. Is there any use for fails and used supports to recycle them in any way?

[@CaptEirikr]

You can keep a few supports around and use them with the vat clean function on a lot of modern printers to make peeling the bottom cured layer easier; bunch of videos show how you can do that. Beyond that, yeah, not much use for them.

[@Shadablade]

Uncle Jessy, Great video as always and a nice way to give beginners an idea of resin supply usage. Questions about the water wash resins. I've seen a lot of people commenting that we resin prints tend to crack and split apart after a period of time and disuade people from using them. Have you encountered this any? Thanks for all your great videos!

[@VoicelessScream]

I know the question was directed to Uncle Jessy but just as an FYI, I've strictly used Water Washable resin since I've started a few months ago and I've gone through 8L worth without a single miniature cracking - plenty of larger one that were hollowed as well. Can't speak for mechanical prints but resin isn't great for that use. I try to dry them off before I cure them but I am not exactly very diligent about it.

[@tricky2k]

On the next video, you'll tell us the printed weight in bananas and walnuts for a one thousand GRAMS bottle. Does the GRAMS word give you any clue? Oh, do you know you can set the scale to 0 with the tray on, so you don't have to substract the tray's weight in bananas/walnuts every goddamn time? Just sayin'

[@stuff3862]

1000 grams is a liter its annoying but its not hard to do the math

[@beawatton]

@@stuff3862 No it’s not. That’s only true for water

[@stevenr3544]

@@stuff3862 where your math at?

[@stuff3862]

@@stevenr3544 yeah i went back and redid my calculations when I realized that

[@noway8233]

@@beawatton thats true for any liquid that have a density of 1

[@Wanaanabe]

For a beginner on a budget what printer would you suggest? For resin and filament.

[@petersolomon3505]

very informative, thanks! loved the Joker, what a sculpt!

[@NuneAkaMrPropane]

Is it possible to re-melt support pieces into useable resin?? That would be cool!!

[@Sharpevil]

It is not, unfortunately. Polymerization of resin completely changes the chemical structure of the material.

[@CanadianSmitty]

Hey, is there a difference between using 4k resin on an 8k printer or is it necessary to use 8k resin on an 8k printer?

[@RisottoNero-z1w]

Struggling a little with the units. but thank you!

[@cardsfanboy]

I have not printed anything yet, just bought a Photon S as part of Anycubic's black Friday sale, going by their website, one bottle of resin starts at $23, if you are getting 30+ miniatures out of one bottle, that leaves material cost at about $.75 per figure, definitely not the price I thought it was going to be (I was thinking closer to $1.50 or more) I love the idea of those busts though, didn't think of doing something like that until I saw it in a video, and now I think that might end up being a go to item. But I'm glad to see the cost isn't nearly as high as I thought it would be.

[@thetigerman]

Uncle Jessie your prints on your Mars 2 pro are flawless can you do a video on your settings please?

[@GrimSleepy]

So far I've used the very rigid elegoo resins; I was having fails at 30-45s bottom exposures with 6s layer exposure. I boosted that (at the sacrifice of much longer print times) up to 60s bottom layer 8s layer exposure times. Haven't yet had a failed print on the increased times, though I'm planning experimenting with incrementally dropping the exposure times. Just ordered some Siraya flexible resin to lower the rigidity of my models, which I assume will radically change my results if I don't modify them.

[@stevenbryce6269]

Hey man, I know you stress not washing in the sink; which I totally get. However, what do you do with the leftover contaminated water in the wash tank/container? What’s the environmentally safe way of disposing of it? Thanks!

[@ibkuzz301]

A 3 foot hole in the ground (joke)

[@OriginalSharpe]

How do you like the washable resins? Is there a big difference between the ones you need to use IPA to clean? Seems like they would be a far less toxic product and easier to use....if the quality is good.

[@gaboaaa23]

thanks

[@jinkxkng]

I'd love to see a koffing and wheezing pokemon printed. I'd even be willing to purchase them.

[@Sharpevil]

Printing them would be easy. The rough part is finding a talented sculptor to make them. You'd be looking at a cost of a few hundred dollars each, at least, to get something that shows all the details properly.

[@stuff3862]

@@Sharpevil Thats why I went the road of learning how to do it myself.

[@yamahar8wme]

do you need a curing and washing station for the mars 2?

[@C-M-E]

Definitely a question I've wondered about as I'm in the process of switching over to resin. Saturn printers have been nearly impossible to secure at asking price as it seems nefarious parties are snagging them on Amazon and selling almost double what Elegoo does, so I ended up snagging a Uniz printer on their kickstarter and am watching as many resin printer vids to stock up on knowledge til it gets here. I mostly do prototype models and some figures for myself and am soooo looking forward to the beauty of those 4k res prints and no more layer lines!

[@b5a5m5]

"switching over" FDM & Resin are different tools for different requirements.

[@gaboaaa23]

the oakin Phonix was 0.05 layer hight?

[@CosplayKitchen]

The end result of the two printers was a but surprising but super interesting.

[@Movie_Games]

Damn, so $40 to print one of those trays? How much cheaper would filament be to print the same amount?

[@andrewwatts1997]

Oddly enough, in terms of time and quality. Resin would still be cheaper. But if that is of no consern, in terms of real spent money, fdm is cheaper.

[@xr337]

@@andrewwatts1997 he wants to know how much cheaper though

[@andrewwatts1997]

@@xr337 That depends. What plastic will you be printing with. Cheap PLA, perhaps 20 dollars per kilo ? More expencive ABS, or NYLON 40 to 60 dollars per kilo. Even PLA comes in 40 dollar roles.

[@angrydragonslayer]

@@andrewwatts1997 $5 abs

[@cristiaolson7327]

Filament is about $29 per kilogram for reasonable quality PLA. You can find it cheaper, but often the quality drops and the waste from bad prints means you ultimately don't save any money. Resin is about $40 per kilogram, at least the kind I buy. Honestly, I have both types of printers. Filament is much better for big terrain or objects because the build plate is larger and the filament is a good material for bigger projects (doesn't break easily if dropped off the table). Resin is much better for small items and miniatures with high detail. Even a really good filament printer will struggle with fine detail, and the medium isn't suited for anything with thin protrusions. Personally, I haven't found the overall cost difference between the two types of products to be huge, maybe about 25% cheaper for filament, but I was throwing away so many failed tiny prints on my filament printer that it probably balanced out when I started using resin for those little items and stopped getting so many failures.

[@devanhughes8060]

The mini skulls would make a cool necklace

[@chucksrchabit.7671]

When printing do you have to add resin during prints.

[@3dtechnologies153]

Need a Phenom L size printer. I like Epax for their innovations and they offer such a printer but its not 4k mono..any suggestions on what to buy?

[@UncleJessy]

Phenom L is really the only machine I’m aware of that size that is reasonably affordable. But non that I know that size have 4K mono screens..... yet

[@3dtechnologies153]

@@UncleJessy Here is the Epax one epax3d.com/products/epax-x156-uv-lcd-3d-printer

[@CapuletPoeChannel]

Any videos like this for PLA, TPU, PETG etc?

[@swc2001]

@Uncle Jessy Hey good Sir! Have you done a review of the Anycubic Photon Mono X? Also would be kinda neat to see a head to head video between the Mono X and the Saturn. Future video ideas 😏.

[@TotzkieGG]

Question, if I ever become an Eastman patron, will I have access to previous releases or is it just for succeeding months?

[@rickflorida3838]

I don’t have a washing and curing station but whenever I use that grey it has a white film on top. It appears when I leave it in the sun

[@jamescrawford8538]

I love this hobby

[@stormcrowstudio3344]

Great video, would love the weights in grams too, though!

[@brucehart7466]

For resins of this viscosity, about 1 gram per ml.

[@EJTechandDIY]

Really interesting topic, looking forward to the day we can buy a 3d printer that don't need supports.

[@whalescience8831]

There's a fdm printer that utilizes an additional axis so you can print without supports.

[@UncleJessy]

What’s wild is just a few years ago I thought this was never going to be soemrhjbf you could do at home without spending 10k+

[@EJTechandDIY]

@@UncleJessy its actually crazy how things have change. Im close to 31 years and it's mind blowing to me how fast things are evolving.

[@UncleJessy]

@@EJTechandDIY yeah I’m excited to see what new tech rolls out in the next year or two! Could be wild

[@0heck]

Is there any way to process the waste to reuse?

[@noend2nightmares]

Is the abs like resin. Better than the standard?

[@Trueflights]

how many things can you print with one bottle of resin... Depends on the size of the bottle :P

[@JailerGamer]

Me with a 10ml bottle. Ohhh yeaaah

[@Ghryst]

you can print 1 + 1.8 units of some archaic flat-earth measurement system that only one country in the world still uses. Uncle Jessy is like "whats a kilogram???"

[@agnieszkakucharczyk2521]

Hi can you sher your print setting, time, and the rest. Thanks

[@dudex104]

Does the Water Washable 3D Printer Rapid Resin LCD UV-Curing needs a curing station? Any help or advice? Thanks guys

[@allforcrafting7893]

How long such print will last(month, years?) Will it shrink or deform with time? for example 3d resin sheet?

[@TheDracfink]

which would be better for car interior parts resin or plastic printer? and if plastic, which plastic do you prefer? btw i live in Arizona.

[@Priceman5]

Can the supports be melted again and reused?

[@eric3dee]

Are you cleaning the water washable models in the wah and cure station? If so, are you using water with the machine?

[@stuff3862]

Did the math for anyone who was trying to figure out costs since he didn't even bother to try. A 32 dollar bottle of 1000L resin is .03 cents per 1ml. 1ml = 1 gram (its actually a little bit more like 1000ml of resin = 1074g but the extra is somewhat negligible so i just might be off by only a few cents on my calculations) the minis weigh 386 grams so it costs 11.60 usd to print everything on the first tray (without the trays weight, thanks so much for adding the weight of the tray for some reason), so roughly 1 mini will cost .39 cents without supports. With the supports calculated in it costs about 17.85 usd and a single mini costs .50 cents, not bad at all! What I dont understand is how he ended up with 3.3lbs of resin printing when a single 1000ml bottle should be about 2.4 pounds? EDIT: He used two bottles that makes more sense but he should have had around 4.8 pounds of material I guess the wash and cure process?

[@shshark]

Awesome video! Have you ever tried to print jewelry model for casting, if so can you please share your experience. Thank you

[@Steve_makes_stuff]

I don't know much yet about these, but do they all require a washing and uv curing station? And why?

[@Darkknight-yo3ry]

Hey uncle jessy,when is the next part for the Batman mask? Love your video keep up the great work.

[@UncleJessy]

Firing up more batman files today! Excited to get back on that project. Nikko and his crew did an amazing job on those files

[@Darkknight-yo3ry]

@@UncleJessy sounds great!keep up the great work!

[@travisa2538]

You got a sub from me buddy I will be buying one soon thank you for all your great info!

[@hyperionhelios190]

Hey Jesse, How much have resin prices changed over the past 3 or so years? I hope that the price has come down in general as more brands become available and the technology in general has become more widespread with the release of much cheaper SLA printers.

[@DarkMiss]

Vroom settings are really bad for your lcd screen because the long exposure times will cause burn spots/damage way faster and your screen wont last. Also, i can print around 12 +bases 75mm models for every 500ml of water washable resin. I did some terrain and got 10 pieces of a castle for 1l of resin. So it depends on if you are doing big or small minis and base for them all or terrain, or hollowing them out. I only hollow big models because its too much of a pain to get the resin out and cure properly on the 32mm ones.

[@andrewstambaugh240]

Confirms my suspicion: most people are very over optimistic when estimating their cost per mini. I commonly see 25-50 cents per warhammer/25mm mini. But if 1kg costs say $30 and prints 30minis, $30/30minis = $1/mini That's ignoring other costs like cleaning supplies and fep etc. Having watched a bunch of drop and damage comparisons for minis, I'm looking at Siraya tech resins, because even their fast resins are stronger than most resins on the market, and their tenacious mixed into another resin makes minis that are throw-it-in-the-box, knock-it-off-the-table, and "travel safe" The resin I'm looking at is a 80/20mix of siraya tech fast/tenacious. If you look at the cost averaged out over time, rather than the 1st time purchase: (0.8kg x $37/kg + 0.2kg x $65/kg)/(0.8kg + 0.2kg)= $43.40/1kg or ~ $1.45/mini Obviously the scale/size, thickness, hollow or not, support-less or not, etc all make a big difference in how much resin is used, but I'm still thinking it's double to triple most estimates i see. Can anyone recommend a good resin under $30/1kg with comparable detail and toughness to Siraya tech fast? aka would survive repeated falling off the table tests and still print high detail? I'm definitely open to looking at cheaper options for terrain and such.

[@freedy191]

I don't know if you said it or not but was the Resin bottle 500g or 1000g? Also, what's the difference between 500g and 1000g? I assumed g meant grams but the bottles on amazon look the same size.

[@angrydragonslayer]

I have bought some 500g bottles where the bottle could fit 1000g but is half full Also, yes, grams.

[@TheHighlander242]

Great video! Would love to paint those bust!

[@littletoysmaker]

hello, excellent video thank you very much. I have a question, do you cure the whole figure and then remove the helpers? once the figure is cured, do the helpers come off that easy?

[@nicholasbonilla89]

In your opinion without being bias lol what 3D printer would be good for a noob? A filament (idk if that is the correct term) 3D printer or a resin 3D printer like yours?

[@shortyda3129]

Could you do it printing the exact same files on each printer? That way we really see if one can print more than the other.

[@edgarortiz6975]

Can I print in the Eleego Saturn with Anycubic resine??

[@Ghazkul666]

Hm you didn't weight the bases you printed on the mars mini? At least I couldn't see that you did in the video. Only minis on the tray

[@dadoffour]

Hello Jessy could you help me with something what is the difference between the mars 2 pro and the mars 2 mono I'm unsure apart from the price difference

[@Daddio66]

Hey Uncle Jessy, Would the original mars printer be able to fit the dark saber files without cutting/slicing them?

[@UncleJessy]

No, at 85% scale you'd need to cut the handle piece down a little further. It is just slightly too large for the original mars build volume. You could easily print in 2 pieces and weld together.... oh now there is a video idea ;)

[@swc2001]

@@UncleJessy oooooh yes indeed sir! Great video idea!! I have the Peopoly Phenom and would love to see how you weld two halves of a helmet together. Also how do you split the STL file to print in two halves. I am a Design Engineer, so I have SolidWorks, but I can't get the STL's to split. Does Chitubox have the ability to split them? I'm still relatively new to the 3D printing game. Mostly using for engineering prototypes. Love your videos sir!! Thanks for what you do!!!! ☺️

[@C-M-E]

@@swc2001 I'm new to resin but can tell you all about the various slicers for STLs destined for FDM use. I use a few for various features and will probably continue to do so as I move to resin. To answer your question, the first program I would use is ideaMaker's slicer which has precisely a model slice function where you can use a plane to dissect your model into however many pieces you want and it automatically creates a cap. On the flip side if you'd rather not fiddle with importing and exporting into several programs, you can simply move your file in program on its side to the build platform where you want the split and it will only process the exposed half above that. I'm just getting into Chitubox and Lychee slicers so there may be a function that does the same, I just don't know it yet. Some free slicers I use regularly if you want to fiddle with them: ideamaker has arguably the best repair function (my primary use in that one apart from the dissection feature), Cura, meshmixer, the old version of Netfab pre-autodesk acquisition (search around, there's a download link for this, though I believe it will try to update you to autodesk from time to time, I cancel out of its attempts), meshlab is good also for fixing topology when converting things from like obj to stl, and while it isn't super useful for stl's, LilithUnwrap for fixing or assigning UVs if you really want a simple application without going through a traditional modeler.

[@swc2001]

@@C-M-E well I'll definitely have to look into some of that. Thanks so much for the info. I have.... How shall I say,....been Less than successful with FDM Filiment printers. 1st I was given a Longer Filiment printer..... My prints would get about half way done, and then become a bird nest. Then the temps kept going up and down. They would never stay consistent. So after that I bought a Mingda Rock 3. I tried and tried to get that thing leveled. I never even got past the raft on any model with that printer. It would randomly freeze on the UI and had other glitches too. So I called Matterhackers, (I bought the Phenom from them), and they recommended I buy the Ender 5 Plus. It has autobed leveling and he said it was a very solid machine. So I am going to be getting one of those when it gets back in stock. I will never buy another 3D printer off of Amazon again. From here on out it's Matterhackers only. Their customer service is 2nd to none. I really have no idea why I went on this long tangent.... But here we are. Lol Thanks again for the info. I probably need to find some 3D printing forums. If you know of any, please do tell kind sir.

[@C-M-E]

@@swc2001 I hear you on the foibles of Amazon; I just get supplies like filaments or parts I can whip together myself, though matterhackers as you've experience is definitely top notch. My first printer I got was a big delta style as I was doing 180mm compressor wheels and custom parts larger than most printer beds would fit. They are an interesting design but as equally troubling in maintenance as some of the parts the devices they were going to replace. I still have it but it's been up and down since doing a 13 hour print that the print head decided to break off the bed at hour 11 and subsequently the printer continued to unspool the entirety of its capacity all over the flippin place, which ended in a broken printhead to boot (up 'til then, aside from getting it set up and fine tuned, was fantastic). This all happened shortly after covid started affecting supply lines so it took a good 4 months to get repair parts and it's still being very finicky, hence my move to resin. I'm perfectly okay with dealing with funky chems as I do composite work too. Everything I've learned has been either self-taught through the tribulations of T&E or I'll get a glimpse on youtube and apply it to my project, so unfortunately I can't point you towards a forum. Such is the downside of freelancing. What usually happens if I can't figure it out myself, a detailed web search will eventually lead to a similar enough solution that I can get the rest figured out.

[@1699stu]

Could you please do another video printing the exact same things?

[@mortcog4767]

Wait! Just looking at the minis, you used a 1000g bottle, you printed 385.5g (13.6 ounce) of minis + 209.8 (7.4 ounce) of supports. That's only 595.3g - Your real "waste", that which evaporated into the ether is 404.7g, or 40% of the bottle. Holy hell that's a lot of waste. And it indicates why the single larger prints had more production. Cleaning prints wastes a ton of resin.

[@0heck]

Brings up another question if that's correct, with evaporated resin, how much of that is caught in the filter versus ending up in the air you are breathing in your work area.

[@rstainsbury]

Ok, so assuming these were 1kg (2.2lbs) bottles, that means 97% of the resin poured into the Saturn came out as print or supports and only 3% was lost in cleanup. But on the Mars, 60% came out as prints or supports and 40% was either lost in clean up or is still in the tank...quite a difference!

[@jamesk1619]

yeah it's kinda odd.. a 13oz difference seems like way too much to be lost to cleanup..

[@JTECH106]

Hi Uncle Jessy I just got my Mars 2 pro. I would like to know what are your printer settings if I can know?

[@mechasaurusgames]

Can you do the same with a photon mono x

[@Dwayne_Bullock]

Full Size Iron Man in Resin, or something like that. Tell the waist, how much, how long, how many bottles. You get the idea..

[@UncleJessy]

Love love love it. In fact. Gives me an idea for a new video.

[@metromodelsrules5127]

How much does The MArs 2 Pro weigh?

[@petersolomon3505]

by the way, how does the water washable compare to the regular ABS like resin? havent tried water washable yet, should I?

[@brett6328]

Still learning... If I print something small, can I use the rest of the resin that is in the vat later?

[@coreyg3658]

Just pour it back in the bottle

[@ratmaster2000]

So is that a 500 or 1000 size bottle? hard to tell.

[@UncleJessy]

🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️ my bad man. I don’t think I mentioned that or listed it in the video text. 1000 bottle size 🤦‍♂️

[@Sokumai_Asu]

how big is the bottle?

[@berniemeyers690]

More of a commercial for various mini reseller's than an answer on how much can be printed with a set amount of resin.

[@SweNay]

Constantly wondering how much was in this "1 bottle of resin" during the whole video and also the imperial system is jibberish to the rest of the world just saying.... With that said, you make great great videos dude!

[@KaNawogirusa]

And the bottle is what one litter or what?

[@BigHammer_]

Question: Where are you printing looks like you are printing in your house. I want to get an Elegoo but cant get past the smell and harmful fumes risk. Is that really as bad as they say or blown out of proportion? Appreciate a video on that and your actual print setup.

[@jvdmeulen]

Very nice wrapup, i've missed the bottle weight before and after ps: please use the metric system too.

[@RaG3PlagueDr]

Anyone know where he got the tiny skulls

[@nsrstudio7301]

Hello bro..want to ask...this printer can use 4k resin..?

[@mantismodels1207]

Thanks for the video...Where did You get the T-shirt? I would love to get My hands on one.