What kit I take on E1 climbs & Fool's Gold E1 5c, a good FIRST E1?

[@jamesgostling9635]

Lovely bit of belaying at 12:27! Nice to see Bus Stop Quarry again. Another cracking video, Jez :)

[@JBMountainSkills]

Well spotted 😂💪

[@fredm8621]

Great video. At the moment I have mega gear fear, it really helps to see your thought process.

[@JBMountainSkills]

Glad you liked it! One thing you can do is place loads of kit at ground level and safely bounce around a bit on it.

[@admcne]

Climbed Fools Gold a couple of years ago in what appears to be similar conditions. Spitting to begin with and figured I'd be done before the rain set in... Got caught in the same position. Soaked once I got to the top! It's a great route nonetheless.

[@JBMountainSkills]

Makes it memorable 😂

[@robertcreer8826]

Look forward to giving this a go!

[@hotbeefo]

Just led my first E1 (debatable). Three pebble slab! Apparently all you need for your first extreme is two cams.

[@JBMountainSkills]

Nice one, well done! I remember thinking E1 was probs right for TPS 👊

[@johnrobinson51]

Thanks for covering an ace route and one of my favourites. Fools Gold, Breaking the Barrier and Precious Metal on Pen Trwyn were all my first E1 leads. For the slate inclined: German schoolgirl as a good first E2? And Reclaim your mind (in the blast shelter) as a good first E3?

[@JBMountainSkills]

Glad you liked it! I’ve not actually done Precious Metal, might try and do that before I head to Spain, thanks for the inspiration!

[@adiwoo]

Enjoyed this vid and totally agree with this. , It was my first E1, great experience, easy to set a toprope up and check you can climb it. Came down and went for it, built a bomb shelter of wires from the rest then committed to the moves. Brilliant!

[@JBMountainSkills]

Glad you liked it! Quality pitch!

[@ten10outdoor39]

Great to see you suffering for your art! Thanks. Looked a lot more solid than iremember!

[@JBMountainSkills]

I was gutted the drone stuff didn't work, would've been pretty funny to see me climbing a waterfall!

[@ten10outdoor39]

@@JBMountainSkills But great to see Alex fill the gap so ably! :)

[@jknight1415]

Want to try it now

[@JBMountainSkills]

Well worth getting on!

[@leegosling]

Happy days

[@mattbaker1683]

Thanks Jez. Are the BD cams (and others) colour coded the same size as DMM? I know they're numbered differently, 1,2,3,4 etc vs 0.5, 0.75... so a red DMM is a red BD and your gold BD would be a gold (4) DMM? I know i'd be capable of E1 but it's not an option just yet, maybe by next summer if I can keep getting out on the rock. Also are there any good routes you know of for breaking into the higher end of Severe, perhaps partly bolted but with gear along the way, so gear can be placed and potentially tested for those that have gear fear?

[@JBMountainSkills]

Pleasure! Yes BD colours are the same as DMM and WC. Not sure on the fixed gear trad routes I'm afraid, most of that nature around here tend to be E1 or above I think. Tons of good severes to go at though, I like Tremadog's Upper Tier and Holyhead around here.

[@KubaDawidChrzan]

Hm... just asking :) Why you dont put 1st piece multidirectional ?

[@JBMountainSkills]

I don’t remember what my first piece of gear is in the video, but whilst a multi directional piece is good, it’s not always possible. I think the first piece or two on this are small nuts, so I wouldn’t have a cam small enough to go in those placements. They’re also pretty high so the chance of much of an outwards pull is pretty small.

[@ryanmoody8125]

I climbed this route 😅

[@savvasioannou9851]

If I see the video, will I lose the onsite when I do next week?

[@JBMountainSkills]

Of course it'd blow the onsight, whether that matters or not is up to you.

[@beingaware8542]

E1 how about saying a few other grading scales?

[@JBMountainSkills]

rockfax.com/climbing-guides/grades/

[@samshorto5433]

How about using Google?

[@pauljepson1249]

Worth pointing out that an E1 aint an E1 if you practice it on toprope first! Always baffles me when people headpoint a route graded for the onsight and sound-off about it being their first E-whatever. Climb your own climb and all that but don't kid yourself.

[@JBMountainSkills]

It is an E1, it's just an E1 you've practiced first.

[@pauljepson1249]

@@JBMountainSkills As you say, practicing on a top-rope is bringing a route down to your level. The adjective grade is for the onsight/ground-up and is the overall difficulty and danger of the route. It's not as difficult or dangerous once you have worked out the moves and gear in relative safety. A pre-practiced E1 5c is still a 5c but it's probably not an E1.

[@JBMountainSkills]

Don’t get me wrong, an E1 onsight is a different experience to an E1 that’s practiced. I’ve done everything from new route onsighting to working a route to death and everything in-between. However if someone does an E1, it’s an E1. That’s why if you’re of the persuasion to log it somewhere like UKC you get to choose O/S, flash etc.

[@pauljepson1249]

@@JBMountainSkills The route obviously never changes grade but the grade 'E1' captures something which you are avoiding if you pre-practice the route. You've climbed a route which is E1, but you haven't climbed E1, if that makes any sense at all.

[@bensmith-price6318]

@@pauljepson1249 no it doesn’t

[@guloguloguy]

....IMHO: It would help, a lot, if you could find someone to "translate" what you're saying, into "American English".... Your "weird SLANG/JARGON" is very hard to decipher.

[@samshorto5433]

It would help you, a lot, if you could find a way to overcome your America-centric worldview and realise that most of us just don't care about you. We all have to deal with your weird slang in US videos, you should get used to doing the same.