2011 - 2017 Honda Odyssey Sliding Door Will Not Close Bad Hinge or Roller

For the last year the sliding doors have had problems closing. They would get most of the way closed and when the back of the door tries to pivot in the door would beep and reverse direction. Both the Honda dealer and I would lubricate the door periodically which would resolve the issue for a month or so. So this summer we went away for a few weeks and upon return discovered both door would not close. Lubricating them had little impact. Finally decided to fix it properly.

[@Avason1]

I have an 05 odyssey and it looks like they have not changed their design at all. I love my odyssey with 215,000 miles on it. But those doors stink! I’ve replaced my rollers about 4 times on each side. Just about the same way you did. I put a jack underneath with a cloth. It’s important to mention that when you are reinstalling the cables, it is hot or miss. The cables don’t give you enough slack and you sometimes have to go in the interior and take all of that side apart to pop some clips so the it gives you more slack. Great video!!

[@fingerbang247]

I found recently (thanks Reddit) that if you get a triple-beep at the start of door closing, that it's likely the pinch sensor on the front edge of the door, it's probably bent/dent/stuck a little bit. I spent an hour lubing my door to no avail, then found out about the pinch sensor and it took 30 seconds to fix by hand. I must have bumped it while loading my rooftop box.

[@BarryHarrellYouTube]

Great video - one comment though, when you remove the roller pulley from the door, you should mark the location because that part can move a bit and it is crucial to how the door sits when it is closed. It is not that big of a deal, but it can be. Thanks again for taking time to do this video. How much did you pay for the part at Honda? Mine was $149 (OEM) on eBay and I bought a new set of OEM pulley wires too for $95. So I am curious about how much it cost at the steal-er? Oops, I meant Dealer.. hehe Also, what year is your van? Mine is a 2015 and the darn door just busted off one day after only 17K miles and the roller tore up the side of the van. And it was about 7 months out of warranty.

[@teeeejaay89]

Hey what part # was that? Thanks for the info.

[@barryharrell3355]

@@teeeejaay89 I'm sorry, I can't remember, but it's the roller the fellow in the video is talking about. I misspoke when I said pulley - I mean roller. If it is slightly off in one direction of the other where it is bolted to the door, it can cause issues. In my case, once it was all done, the door kept opening back up and the Honda dealer swapped every part out and it still did not work (cost me 2K). Turned out that the rubber door stop at the very top and back of the door was slightly off. I moved it about 1/6" back and then the door worked! It was hitting it just as it should close and lock, but it was just off enough that it kicked it out before it could lock. And no, the Honda place would not give me a dime back.

[@jmatthewmoore]

Thanks for the video. When my door first began not closing it would stop right about where you were having problems but now it will stop at all different places and can even stop at multiple locations. Do you think this would still be the problem or could it be something else?

[@billlocal3]

Great Video, very informative

[@phillipmcgrath599]

Good fix thanks for posting , you must have harsh winters for those hinge pins to fuse together ...

[@jcondon1]

It did fix the problem.

[@jcondon1]

Phillip McGrath lots of salt

[@michelebruntz2508]

James what part of the country are you in? We live in Nebraska and just had the cable snap, but was wondering if we should change this out at the same time.

[@samsnow7370]

Nice video and informative; my door is having the same problem thought it was tension adjustments somewhere. I have to help the door with a little strength to get to the "pass" a certain point to close. The door use to "studder" to a close. Question: why didn't you try spraying the spring section with wd40 or the likes to lube? And did the door come right off?

[@jcondon1]

I did use wd40 for about a year, but after leaving the car parked for a couple weeks while away on vacation they froze up so bad that I could not get either side to close with out helping them. And still it took several tries and a lot of force. So I final decided to just fix it.

[@BarryHarrellYouTube]

If you take off the interior panel you can get to the door pulley motor. From there you can turn the unit - like an old style egg timer - and tighten or loosen the tension.

[@socratesvela8285]

Just had my motor and bracker replaced at Honda on my 2012. Apparently, when you buy the motor ($600-$800) it comes with the bracket because honda issued a redesign/bulletin, probably because their original design was crap. Unfortunately it was not a campaign, if so, they would have to issue a recall and they would pay for it. It cost me 2 hours of my time and total $1k. My problem was a snapped cable, so I had to get the sliding motor. If you do try to replace the middle roller, you should also replace the sliding door motor per the Honda bulletin, unless you know the roller you are replacing has been replaced with the new design and hence you have the new design motor. The new design also comes with a new control module.

[@jcondon1]

A year later one of my cables snapped. Had to buy the hole motor. :(

[@heatherramsey6813]

Thank you for the video. Our current issue on our 2012 touring elite is that the middle roller failed and the entire door fell off damaging the upper roller, rail, and of course the paint. I can only locate the middle roller as a set meaning it comes with a circuit board for $375. Was this the case with you, only a middle roller available with a circuit board?

[@jcondon1]

No circuit board was required when I bought the parts, but that was a few years ago. Things may have changed.

[@heatherramsey6813]

@@jcondon1 thank you for your reply. Upon further investigating this part 72521tk8305 replaces 72521TK8A11. I called the dealership for kicks to check and they confirmed.

[@HarryWangHungLo]

Nice video! I have a 2011 too. Have your door ever “pop” when you open it either the handle or the buttons? Thank you!

[@jcondon1]

Yes! The passenger door pops on occasion. Just waiting for that to break the cable. The latest issue is the rear tailgate will not open.

[@MatthewBailey9971]

my passenger side sliding door does this. won't open when hitting the dash button until I hit it several times, have to yank really hard on the handle to get it to open manually and then sometimes it will close again before I can open it all the way.

[@curtdunlap6818]

A regular barrage of PB-Blaster, WD-40 and some machine oil on that hinge pin might have worked too! It always did wonders on my hood hinges and latches.

[@bigal6667]

James, did that solved the problem or you are still having it??

[@jcondon1]

Robert Lindsay yes

[@java4steve]

WD-40 It's all you need. Don't dismantle the door, just spray that on the hinge (which is easily accessible when the door is open). Make the door open and close to work it and BOOM fixed.

[@jcondon1]

java4steve yes, did that for a year and it worked. But then we went on vacation for a couple weeks and no amount of lubricant would free them up after sitting for a couple weeks. The act of removing the old hinges freed them up. I could have reused them after brushing the rust off, but already had the new part so I installed them.

[@bmcorc1]

My sliding door is completely 'stuck', halfway open. Won't budge either way (to fully open or close). Any idea? Checked the fuses, but they appear to be fine.

[@jcondon1]

bmcorc1 was it working fine until it got stuck? Does it sound like it is trying to do anything?

[@bmcorc1]

James Condon yes, was working fine until the other night. Didn’t sound like it was trying to do anything. Dealer ended up cutting the cable to get door to close (cable was extremely tight). Estimate to repair is $1,800 ☹️. Mine’s a 2011 with 143,000 miles.

[@carsonwadden1854]

I have the exact same make and model but the door is stuck open and won't close, what do I do to get it closed

[@fingerbang247]

Turn off the automated part - that freed mine up to close manually.

[@ebot321]

How much and where did u buy hinge? Do you have part#?

[@jcondon1]

Gary Yip I went to the parts department at the dealer. I had to provide the model year. They had it in stock. It is a common problem.

[@ebot321]

@@jcondon1 do u remember how much you paid? Some people have told me $50 and others told $228, not sure why the big price difference.

[@jcondon1]

Gary Yip sorry do not remember the price.

[@BarryHarrellYouTube]

FACTORY HONDA ODYSSEY RIGHT POWER SLIDING DOOR CENTER ROLLER 11-17 72521-TK8-A11 - that is for a 2015.

[@gregunrau7031]

@@ebot321 I looked into this and the 2010 roller is very cheap ($60) but the 2011 roller is $300. I have tried to see if the 2010 roller would work on the 2011 but 2011 is a new model year and there is a different part number between the 2 years (2010 = 72521-SHJ-A21 ; 2011 = 72521-TK8-A11). The 2010 part is widely available on Amazon but the 2011 part is not.

[@user-ye7tu4ww5c]

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