Jeep WJ D44/D35 Axle Bearings, seals, plus parking brake - Vortex Garage Ep. 11 - OLD VERSION

[@VortexGarage]

Hi all - this video has been "remastered" and the music track removed! kzbin.info/www/bejne/bXOwpJimYs5mg7c Our early videos had background music, guess I thought it had to be like TV. I learned, and read feedback in comments, so I am slowly working to rework these and cut out the music while retaining the chat. This one is done and at the link above!

[@gristlevonraben]

Thank you, showing how to fix problems that come up helps immensely as well!

[@worlock14]

I personally don't care about music) I don't understand English well! so I just watch how you work))

[@freeinhabitant2422]

Yeah, the music was annoying. Was it music?

[@jackhammergaming3526]

Does the new bearing need greased

[@6CCORVETTEMAN]

This is about the easiest video to watch and learn from. Great job. I'm waiting for a new axle to arrive. The old one had a grooved seal surface that was causing oil leakage. You are the only person I've heard to say to stop pressing the bearing/retainer on when it bottoms out.

[@sarielx]

I have to tell you, I've watched TONS of videos, and scoured every forum. YOU were the ONLY person to handle the issue I had! The retainer plate DOESN'T come flush with the flange by default. That's why EVERY video people post shows them trying to remove the outer wheel bearing race upon removal. Well, it was helpful to see someone FINALLY using a mallet. If you haven't done this, and it's your first rear axle DANA 44 on a 1999-05, you wouldn't know that. Not even the service manual mentions it when discussing the Rear Axle 226RBA. THANK YOU!

[@zappa916]

brilliant trick reversing the rotor to pop the axle out

[@dunebasher1971]

And if you don't tighten the lug nuts, but leave a bit of slack so that the rotor can slide along the studs, you don't need to hammer the rotor - you can grab it by the edge and use it like a slide hammer to pop the axle out.

[@sloppyoppie]

Just a thanks for that. Had a hub that I used your method on today ...NOTHING else would grab it because no lug nuts, just an internally threaded hub.. except the rotor itself of course w/no room for a hammer@@dunebasher1971

[@johndi7258]

Due to previous experience I just went ahead and tacked the four studs on the outside of the retainer plate before assembly. Thanks for the video

[@patrickrodriguez2074]

I don't usually comment on a video, but I like to seriously thank you for your very informative video. Thanks again.

[@romeoortegaiii2299]

Great video! I like how ya showed using a drill to cut the locking collar. And wow man completely different steel the inner race is made of, we used a Dremel and a cut-off wheel to make a nice cut in it then one good lick with ye 'ol cold chisel and the big ball peen hammer. We have a HARBOR FREIGHT 20 TON PRESS that has once again paid for itself. We also have a bench top drill press makes things easier 1/4" high speed bit. Thanks again. We is my 12 year old son and I. We did the procedure in the driveway and on our outside work bench. We used all Spicer and Timken parts. Denny's Drive Shafts in Kenmore, New York will help ya get squared away with WJ and other driveline components. Brand new Made in The USA Spicer bearing retainers were $8.95 a piece. Fed-Ex sucks spring for UPS shipping my parts sat at the Fedex station 40 miles away for 4 days.

[@dennisminks8282]

Regarding bearing install, have you ever considered using a crock pot with differential oil, place all the interference fitting parts in the oil, heat to 285°F, then slide in place (in the correct sequence) and let it cool? I've done it on large equipment successfully multiple times (the old fashion way). The heating of steel will typically make the steel grow by 0.006"/100°F. Since an interference fit is ~0.0015 - 0.002" smaller than the shaft diameter, the heated growth should allow for everything to slip on easily, seat in place then lock onto the shaft once cooled off. Also, the oil will be retained in the bearing! BTW, make sure you use PPE (silicone mittens) to protect your hands from the heat. Nice video...

[@josephszpek5740]

Killer music in back ground! Thank you for showing the new baring orientation on the axle. I needed to be sure before I press on. This video is the only place to find that image. Thanks again very helpful.

[@mightythor4927]

I got here after the music was reduced. Great video and unlike most of the others Really appreciate you describing the individual parts. Even though I have decades of experience it is good to see the process before I try it myself and your video shows exactly where everything is in relation to everything else. Also like the video of the press. lots of video skip this step.

[@WannabeTuners]

Just found a stream of gear oil coming off the axle housing on the back of the right rear wheel on my '02 WJ. Thanks for putting this video together, it's gonna be a great help!

[@ccjcadventures2661]

Great Video lol I reversed the old rotor yesterday before watching this as I did not have a slide hammer!!!

[@soundboydesign1373]

Canada here...need to get backing plate on my wj...you da man! Saving dollars!

[@Pdubforever1]

I actually am doing this job tmro, I got to the point Whr I have the axle out now zi need to cut the bearing and retainer off and press them back on. this video is excellent and in detail of what i will need to do. great job on the video. best how to video yet!

[@durhamdigital]

Best video i’ve seen on this

[@genobrn8743]

excellent video and illustration

[@mr.m2gilane]

Thank you for the backwards brake rotor trick!! I have this job coming up on my WJ probably next week and although I have decent selection of tools, I never bothered to buy a proper slide hammer, always gotten around it somehow. I thought I have to get it this time, but since my rear rotors are shot anyways, I don't think I will. Thanks to lockdown, best places to get tools are closed and I don't intend to pay double to a shop I don't know well.

[@Jack-Surreal_Panes]

thanks. just got an abused 99 Laredo. had this bad real howl. Guy was saying possibly bearing. Well, no play at all, bearing is good. Noticed both sides back plate was really oily and goopy. no line leak. Hmmm. checked e brake like and R/S cable was not attached in the yoke. no brake at all. took it all apart and found that the pads are shot to hell, froze actually. They sprayed oil up there to loosen and lessen the noise. Cleaned, replaced. Noise gone and e brake works now.

[@hi.satiety9423]

Nice vid. Had the same issue with two studs on axle retainer plate last time I did mine. Also crown. Pulling one side apart to replace seal. Your post is nice refresher. Same press in my shop ..

[@buddyshotack3850]

You can drop the retaining collar with a little heat from a heat gun or torch, same with the inner race. Install with an inductive heater or a press.

[@SparksNboat]

I have a XJ with drum brakes. I wish you had shown pulling the axles with C clips. Nice video. Thanks

[@tomcroley7084]

Excellent video! Thank you

[@dougbourdo2589]

a couple of years old now but, when doing parking brake replacement, a new parks kit replaces all of the small rusty hardware.

[@zxtenn]

I have a 96 ZJ 5.2 so it has the 44A and I just did the parking brake shoes and also the 2 piece levers as they were rusted together thus no parking brake, also replaced the adjuster rod and equalizer now parking brake actually works--I have a BTF rear diff cover on my 44A, looks coolCHINA junk knurls

[@russw3926]

Great video young man. You helped me a lot. I'm not new to some of this but this jeep is a different animal for me PLUS you thought me some new tricks!!Thanks a bunch and keep up the good work.

[@bigassdude7856]

that retainer is actually serving as a retainer and pilot so when u bolt on axle it fits just right in the axle tube. do both axles the same time if u dont see any axle oil come out as the oil is supposed to be high enough to get down the tubes to lube the bearings .

[@VortexGarage]

big ass dude The capacity values for fluid can be found here www.wjjeeps.com/service/maintenance_wj.htm note that the fluid does flow down the axle tubes but mainly at speed when the fluid flows up as the gears spin. at rest the capacity level is lower so there's not much in the tubes per se. and yes def agree if doing one side it is good to do the other!

[@RidersWings]

I am trying to install the actuator at the top , a bit to the right which attaches to the brake cable coming into the back plate. It does not get uninstalled like other Parking brake parts in your video. . Of course both of mine are not attached and I tried many ways to install. Tough to test! Help!! I am sure it will be easy. Even my Jeep Dealer hasn't seen this before, LOL. Jeep is on Jack Stands until I can figure this out. Thank you very much Great VIDEO!!!!

[@bassfan41]

I'm curious why the axle shaft can't still be used if you hit it with the grinder. The bearing rides on the race, not the shaft.

[@alexisgomez5479]

Muchas gracias por el tip de poner el disco al revés 👍👍🔧

[@Jack-Surreal_Panes]

any pics or video of the hooking up of the brakes? the jeep I have is missing the entire parking brake. the cable is there, have a brake kit but no mechanism. searching for that part that fits on that metal tab that the pads slide into and that has a lever for the cable to hook to. I found one but with out a picture there is not much out there except drawn parts diagrams that show an arrow pointing to a part. might have to go to a pick and pull and see if I can find a jeep that has it on there. Getting my parts today so am doing both bearings. will cost 40 per bearing, 15 if I cut the bearings off myself. great video showing how to do it

[@ericknight9806]

Do you know the torque values for the rotors, the axal shaft bolts and the wheel lugs? I believe the wheels are 110 foot pounds.

[@vilayphiengpraseuth8640]

Nice job . Great video very helpfully 👍

[@vstrom9586]

I like you're style, hammer and chisel

[@gregpace4676]

Fun to watch you struggle with the springs, did you Knor they actually make brake tools that make easy work of it!

[@VortexGarage]

Yeah, and they were only about 10 feet away in the lower drawer of the toolbox! Sometimes I make life too hard :D

[@mudhound0530]

love your videos and your attention to detail. I do wish these vids were much shorter.

[@thecollectoronthecorner7061]

There is a better heavier caged bearing available from NAPA. It will hold up much better.

[@mondomikeg4921]

What are those torque specs again? Good Video Thanks for the encouragement!

[@VortexGarage]

I don't have them handy unfortunately, however, if you do a google search for "WJ Service Manual PDF" there is a PDF that has been floating around several sites you can download to your phone or PC and it has everything needed to support the work including all torque specs from the factory.

[@akramchattha4514]

Hi, Great video. I followed it to replace the bearing on my 2002 WJ. After replacing the bearing on the axle, I am getting little in and out movement in the axle which causing the rotor to grind against the caliper bracket. Does it mean the bearing was not pressed all the way? Thanks in advance for your help

[@MrKaycleans4u]

You could do without the background music I'd like to hear what you are saying.

[@ramonpompa6662]

Exelente video , me sirvio de mucho la verdad , yo tengo una gran cherokee 2004, saludos desde aca de mazatlan sinaloa

[@h1maldonado05]

Ramon Pompa muy defectuosas compa

[@davidram1974]

great video good cameras too

[@VortexGarage]

thank you!

[@bigassdude7856]

those springs are a pain in the ass. spring hook works good along w a flathead. like myself.. lol

[@trakkerp4202]

Great video, now I'm thinking of an axle swap cause I know of a few that are a lot tougher and easier to work with.

[@muhamadbenahoy]

I'm sory for that bolt at the end I wished you mentioned what brand the bearing assembly was because its metal looks soft since that bolt was off the plate...people should know that company who made it...thank you for the video...😉

[@HAWK-i]

Great info. I'd prefer to not have the music overlay 'cause it's harder to hear the voice. Otherwise a super video. I'm doing this job now and had one outer bearing race come out easily but the other is stuck tight. Going to try to lower the temperature of the race and see if it shrinks enough to loosen up.

[@ALWAYZARMED]

awesome content, big help thank you.

[@VortexGarage]

ALWAYZARMED Thanks! glad you found these helpful!

[@davidram1974]

I had the same issue with those studs. what I did was I used a pair of vise grips to hold the bolts .....crown not good I had to replace it for Timken

[@VortexGarage]

Good method! I agree on those plates not happy with Crown. :)

[@bigassdude7856]

Isai Ramirez timkin makes good shit.

[@albertogonzalez5564]

Isai Ramirez where did you find the timken bearings at?

[@davidram1974]

Alberto Gonzalez Rockauto $29 bucks for Timken set 31

[@braddubasak9647]

Very very good video thank you for the help.

[@tprimeau1]

The music is too loud in relation to your voice.

[@karamiali]

thank you, very informative.

[@eddsramm1]

Geat videos, keep up the great work 👍

[@MrGregorio57]

Excellent Job!!

[@vazza7504]

Hi vortex garage, here in uk I have a 2003 wj grand cherokee, 2.7 turbo diesel, (Mercedes engine) gonna be doing this job myself after watching your great video. Question, what is the tonnage of your Press? Got my eye on a 20 ton press for my own use. Would this be OK to do the job or do need a more powerful press? If that's the case I will take them to an engineers to have them pressed. Press over 20 tons get very expensive.

[@johnbaker4915]

Did you sreiously re-use old brake pads with new discs?! To save what, $15?

[@myoldgaming5282]

hey. ive watched almost all your videos and fixed my jeep (wj) successfully. Can you make a video about replacing the axel front left? please.

[@boogerhead0]

There at 16:00 is your retainer flange stud problem - Crown Automotive

[@charliedee9276]

And now you know grasshopper. NEVER put a retaining plate back in whether new or reusing the old without tacking the heads of the studs. I learned the hard way about 6 WJ's ago that little trick.

[@tommynicoletti1170]

Just had mine replaced and it smokes after driving. Burn off maybe?

[@bladerunner2434]

Anytime you replace the parking brake shoes a new hardware springs kit should be used as well.

[@robertpc100]

great video.i have a question.i replaced rear bearing in a 2008 jeep yj ,D44, but have some play when wiggling wheel up and down. Not leaking yet, but should there be any slack in it at all. it did it before replacing bearings on both rear wheels.thats why i replaced them,but still have same issue.please help! any help is appreciated very much.

[@DJCryptoStix]

great just what i needed

[@CameronDC-Grimes]

My '02 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.7L has no bolts on the inside retainer plate on passenger side rear wheel! Mine looks like it has some sort of rivets. What do you suggest I do?

[@mba2248]

Hello Vortex, thanks for the nice video I want to change the bearing and seal of the rear Axle of my jeep and I have a question please. The seal need Silicone RTV Silicone Gasket Maker to place it? Regards

[@VortexGarage]

M Ba if only doing the outer bearings then no RTV is needed. if you are resealing the center differential cover in the middle then yes you will want to use gear oil rated RTV, it's the grey one from Permatex. if only the outer seals, those come in the bearing kit we used in the video are do not need RTV

[@bladerunner2434]

Great video! How did you know the bearings had to be replaced? I have 180,000 on my 4.0 WJ and as far as I can tell they are still good yet.

[@rspc6132]

I have 186,000 on my WJ and both sides are needing done now.

[@bladerunner2434]

@@rspc6132 Did they make noise?

[@rspc6132]

@@bladerunner2434 There was a squeaking noise coming from the right side. When making hair pin left turns you could hear loud grinding noise from the left. I just replaced the bearings yesterday and all is well now.

[@msach4277]

Thank you so much!! I know it is harder work with filming!! i also wondered about the C-clip. I have a 2004 grand cherokee special addition; if a C-clip is present, then there would be no bolt on retaining plate? Thanks again, GREAT FILMING ( I personally could do without the music tho, at times it was louder than your voice), great instruction, and thankfully no profanity so I did not be aware if my kids could hear you or not. Thanks again!

[@VortexGarage]

Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it! In our later videos, we learned and don't have the music anymore :) Regarding your question - you are correct, a C-Clip style axle would not have the bolt on retainer like these. In those, you have to remove the Diff cover, push the axle in, and remove the c-clip from the diff. Luckily on these WJ Jeeps and similar Dana 44/35 axles in other Jeeps, there are no c-clips so axle removal can be done without touching the diff cover. Thanks again!

[@msach4277]

Thank you for the info! One more question, I am at the point of getting the left rear axle out, I noticed you are able to rotate the hub. I cannot. Do you have the car in neutral? I have wacked on the inverted rotor quite a bit, but no budging yet. Is this because I cannot rotate the hub? Thanks!

[@VortexGarage]

M Sach yeah I think I had the transfer case in neutral. I found rotating it made it easier to hit it around different spots. it can really take a lot of hitting hard to get it to come loose. seen some that really need some heavy hitting to free it from the hub face...

[@msach4277]

OK thanks! Got it out and all bearings are off now. I did notice a nick where the retaining ring was, I am almost sure that was not done by me ( due to its position vs where I was cutting) , but what is the consequence of this being present? - I know it is not a good thing, but how bad is it? THank you again for your time.

[@VortexGarage]

M Sach if it's small and the retaining ring is tight and does it's job Id probably not worry much. honestly I'm not sure if it would cause a major issue or not. hope that helps a bit!

[@_Webpersona]

I might have missed it, but did you mention removing the outer race from the axle tube?

[@jesusrperezd]

Hi, just a comment DANA44a is different from DANA44. Bearings are different, SET31 for 44a and Set10 for 44. I bought the wrong bearing once

[@VortexGarage]

This is excellent info, thanks!

[@jeeper2371]

Keep 1 old rotor for this reason........cause it works great

[@abunch421]

Wait, so the grinding noise could just be from the parking brake and rotor housing?!? I feel a slight click/clunk tho too when initially moving from a dead stop. Anybody by chance have a suggestion?

[@ewyss9206]

Thanks for the great content! One question, is the setup the same on the 5.9 '98 zj?

[@liquerinfrnt]

I have the same question!

[@VortexGarage]

It appears the 98 ZJ 5.9 uses a Dana 44, so the setup should be very similar. The axle bearing/seal procedure should be nearly the same. The parking brake, rotor and brake calipers may be different, and there could be minor axle differences between '98 and this '04 but this procedure as I understand is pretty much the same on Dana 35 and 44 series axles.

[@VortexGarage]

Sorry for the slow reply too

[@donalddavis581]

That toggle..you call the brake mechanism.. those are notorious for being rusted and inoperable... with all the trouble it is to replace those...spend the extra few bucks and get new ones! and the rubber boot that is behind the lever.... while your there any way!

[@deeiks12]

What happens if I press the retainer and bearing a couple of mm too far? Will it interfere somehow in the diff?

[@diyguy2383]

Hey what ton press do i need? I was thinking about getting a cheap 12 ton. I want to say that should be more than enough to do this job but i just want to be 100%.

[@cobraspyguy]

have you had any problem with your shocks being upside down. I have similar shocks and the boots are rubbing the sway bar bolts but bilstein didn't recommend me mounting them upside down

[@kevinferrell1739]

i have a 1996 jeep cherokee xj does the dana 35 rear end suppose to have thrust washers behind the spider gears or can i run it without them mine didnt have any when i pulled it out while replacing rear axle bearing and seals

[@zxtenn]

Could you have heated the race enough for it to expand sufficiently ?????

What size are those awesome tires on ur kickin WJ? Do you have a lift on her?

[@mcerasoli]

my name is michael cerasoli thank you for your video i work at broadway auto in massapequa ny god bless :) thanks again

[@bigassdude7856]

Michael Cerasoli god bless new york and all the nation..

[@williammoore3480]

can you get those axle shafts pre-assembled with the bearings and seals already pressed on?

[@VortexGarage]

Check Quadratec - look at item 20 on this link: www.quadratec.com/jeep-replacement-parts/grand-cherokee-wj/wj-dana-44-rear.php It looks like these have the bearing retainer in the pic so they must be an assembled part. May still want to call Quadratec to be sure. Other vendors may also have these. They aren't very cheap. Note different part number for D44a if you have the standard/lsd vs. the quadradrive varilok.

[@silkytp789]

Great video. Did those axels pop out that easily using the old rotor (reversed) or did you have them out once before? That looked too easy.

[@VortexGarage]

took a few good whacks turning them if i recall. So yeah it does take some time that way

[@sjmorongell]

great video, question. once this job is done do you have to top off that oil? I am doing my jeep this weekend. please advise. thank you

[@VortexGarage]

If the jeep has sat for a bit, most of the fluid in the axle tubes will drain into center section of the diff. There's no real amount of fluid in the tubes at rest. As a result, you should not really lose any, so I didn't need to top off.

[@joelafleur6423]

Good video. Was the bearing assembly auto zone junk?

[@VortexGarage]

Joe Lafleur Thanks! The bearings I used were timken, but the retainer plate that failed was a Crown piece from Quadratec

[@h1maldonado05]

Did you put grease on the shaft before pressing the bearing on?

[@osvaldorodriguez5669]

I know it's an old video but would u happen to have part numbers?

[@user-xz9st8hm1n]

god bless for this video

[@sotos2428]

I need some help! I did this job on my Jeep twice and leaks back again, first I use cheap stuffs so i said let’s get a good seals and leaks again any advice my Jeep has more than 250,000 miles on it

[@VortexGarage]

The only thing I can think is that the actual axle has a wear spot where the seal goes preventing a good seal due to it's mileage or something is warped in the axle tube.

[@toddshoemaker133]

Do you have to replace the bearings and cut all that off to replace the parking brake or did you just decide it needed done? Thanks

[@VortexGarage]

Todd Shoemaker if you're just doing the parking brake no need to do the bearings. in fact you can probably get tje brakes done without removing the axles. in my case I was doing the bearings as maintenance and found the parking brake pads were needing replacement

[@radek3652]

GJ man

[@BigChungusthe3rd]

how often should these be replaced? or how do u know when to replace?

[@sotos2428]

I just change those bearings on my Jeep thing is old and new ones looks just like same

[@davidram1974]

vortex I have a noise I think is coming out of the differential .Any idea how to diagnose it? noise after a replace the bearings is less so that's why I think it's coming off the differential. axel was leaking oil that's why I replaced it .

[@VortexGarage]

it could be the pinion bearing or inner bearings if they lost lubrication. I havent stripped one of those down myself...

[@jakekeenan7691]

How do you remove the parking brake cable?

[@michealfitzgerald4669]

Do you know how to remove the brake dust shields? I can't find anything anywhere on how to remove the pins holding it in.

[@rustyjeep2469]

They are riveted on basically, you'd need to drill out or cut off the rivet heads. Mine were loose and making an awful rattling sound (I installed a junkyard rear axle that I think had been moved with a forklift and set down on the backing plates too hard), so I just tack welded them in place.

[@MuhammadAli-su3oo]

without removing C clip, Axle shaft out. I tried thrice to relisten you but couldn't understand. Could you please explain, thanks.

[@ikashibimauler]

This model has a bolt on retaining plate. There is no C clip. The axle is held in by 4 bolts and a plate on the outside of the axle.

[@MuhammadAli-su3oo]

Thanks

[@DECIFERTHIS09]

is there a parking brake on both sides?

[@tr3vorb438]

Can you improve lighting too? Thanks

[@VortexGarage]

Moved to LED lighting on newer vids :)

[@h1maldonado05]

Hello, I have a 03 Jeep Grand Cherokee I installed new shafts bearings and seals on both sides, both were pressed on. The problem is that they are leaking again. what do you think i did wrong? Also one shaft is longer than the other could that have been the issue if i put them back on the wrong sides?!

[@MaxDoody]

mike johnson 540k! Wow. I'm curious, which engine do you have? I got the 4.0 straight 6 in my 03 WJ and it runs great.

[@timjd7964]

Just get a new shaft. Your welcome

[@mahmod7935]

شكرا

[@IHRRABBITFOOT]

Is trac lock the same as vari lok? I found a axle shaft for my car but it only comes w vari lok which my car doesn't have. but its the right axle. but on another site it says works with standard or trac lok. so can I get the vari lok version and it still work with my standard axle?

[@VortexGarage]

they are different. traklok is a clutch based limited slip setup and varilock is the georotor locker setup. The axle shafts may be slightly different