Jeep XJ 4.0 Liter Engine Oil Adapter Seal Replacement

A relatively technically simple repair to make, but for some reason is neglected, and misdiagnosis can cause owners to believe their rear main seal is blown (which it could be). An oil soaked starter and a filter covered in oil points to this little adapter.
Now I won't lie, I think I had it pretty easy. I've read horror stories of people trying to remove the adapter bolt from the engine; from broken wrenches, to banging with hammers, and even using come-alongs to break that fitting loose. I'll say that even I was a bit hesitant to do this because my Jeep is a daily driver. However, since it is down, waiting on parts for another repair, I figured I had some time, so why not get into this and get it done?!
In the video, I try to illustrate the process of doing the seal replacement in an attempt to alleviate fears from owners who are are bit nervous about tackling this job.
Tools I used are as follows:
1/2" Drive T-60 Torx socket (which I drove the bit out of the socket)
4# hammer
Punch that'll fit into the drive square of the torx socket
12mm offset ratcheting wrench
7/8" combination wrench (used as a cheater)
Vice
Wire Brush
I do not recommend using heat to coax the adapter bolt out. There are two rubber o-ring seals inside that could melt, and you'll make your life miserable if you try that. A little problem solving and muscle is what it'll take do tackle this job.
In the video, I start off by identifying the oil filter adapter, and then demonstrating how a T-60 torx socket does not fit between the adapter and the frame rail. I punch the torx bit out of the socket, and toss the socket part in the trash. Using the t-60 bit, I can get a 12mm wrench (your results may vary) on the end and attempt to apply torque in a vain attempt to loosen the bolt. I tried using a 3/4" wrench as a cheater with no luck. Switched to a 7/8" wrench to get some more length, and after applying some gorilla strength, I'm able to break the bolt loose. From there, the nipple comes out without much hassle. After removing the oil filter, I used some more gorilla hand force to get the adapter bolt out of the housing. Clean up the two pieces, and replace the seals. Clean up the engine block, where it will screw back on. Reinstall, taking care to make sure the alignment pin lines up with the casting relief in the adapter, tighten it within an inch of it's life. While not necessary, I used a small amount of red Loctite to a few threads, just to make sure the bolt doesn't vibrate and back out. If that loosens up, you lose your engine. So at the expense of making this job difficult to do again in the future, I am making sure it won't leak anytime soon. As this engine has 208K miles, and this is the first time this seal has been replaced, I'm confident the repair will outlast the engine.
Specs: 2001 Jeep Cherokee XJ, 4.0 Liter.
Enjoy!

[@joeloop8107]

biggest pain was getting the T60 bolt loose....your info on starting the T60 bolt, on replacement....spot on!!!

[@TransgenderTalkTime]

This video was helpful, however, the only thing that wasn’t “correct” in my repair was that the T60 was not correct. I am gonna assume that someone replaced my OE version with a replacement as I actually needed a 5/8” Hex Head to do the job. I ended up using a Hex-Head-Sockey and removed the hex rather easily. I was also able to replace it with minimal difficulties. The actual “repair” portion of the video was spot on correct. Thanks for the help. This fixed my oil leak.

[@Grr164]

Hey man, wanted to say I appreciate the video, made everything go real smooth. Had a T-60 laying around, punching it out was a great trick. Most of the write ups people do for these cars are ridiculous or unprofessional, I appreciate yours being the opposite.

[@MrSnowford]

Best video by a mile on this repair, thanks very much for posting. Will make it MUCH easier and save my starter from a premature oil death.

[@mikecheck2168]

LOL do it cause mine just suffocated from all the oil and died before I could replace these gaskets

[@hugeslacker]

I've been fighting with this thing every oil change for 4 years and finally got it off the other day. I ended up using a torx bit from a socket and a ratcheting wrench, and my jack handle for leverage. Came off super easy.

[@philliptaylor5981]

Finally, a video that has good video, audio, and how to! Thanks bro!

[@ceterfo]

Sir you are marvelously meticulous. And I appreciate it.

[@kenlee3819]

It always best to work on a hot engine. Bolt doesn't expand as fast as the engine, So the bolt just unbolts a lot easier. That is how I got mine lose after breaking 3 12mm wrench.

[@Taydrum]

I thought the wrench snapped when it finally went

[@mazamike]

Thank you, helpful video as I have to do this on my TJ Wrangler.

[@DonziGT230]

Red Loctite, so that the next guy has no chance in hell of removing it.

[@michaelg6890]

Awesome video and write up, thank you very much

[@ralphhudson6988]

This method worked perfect for me. So nice to not have that leaking right on my starter, etc

[@hugeslacker]

LOL yeah I've gone through 2 starters because of the oil leaking

[@forgedsteelwrench9249]

I did this job with a Duralast T-60 and a Duralast 1/2 drive flex head. Came out easy simply because i had the engine out and was resealing everything else. Inside the cherokee would seem harder todo.

[@dissociativecat7495]

that's a Snap-on commercial ..I'm impressed

[@davidr.8999]

Great video with some helpful pointers. Thank you. If anyone cares, I usually tighten that bolt to between two and three ugga duggas :)

[@ralphvaccaro2638]

Good job 👍🏻😀

[@twistedwired]

Excellent, great video quality, hard to shoot in a cramped space like that, way to go. I wonder if jacking the block to one side would open enough room for a ratchet?

[@drgil65]

I have to do the same thing on my 1999 Cherokee. Thank you for your video. How is the seal holding up after about a year later now?

[@thatsilverxj7874]

I'd like to see a video about that external oil pressure gauge and line to it...

[@morrismercier9849]

Make SURE you clean oil of thread before using thread locker. It WILL NOT work on oily or dirty surfaces!!!!!

[@wannahockaloogie07]

Great tutorial. Very informative! Did you drain the oil before?

[@coupesix]

Adrian Lopez it’s not required...as he mentioned you’ll lose just a little from the filter.

[@metaldemon60]

I welded the T60 into an old wrench. Then I did it from the bottom, where there is more room to work. The T60 worked on my 98. My 94 was a 14mm allen. At some point they changed it. Just saying. Now I have to do my 99 that I just got. The seller thought it was the rear main, the way the oil blows back around the oil pan when you drive.

[@jonredcorn862]

The end of the video around like 13:30 and on you sounded exactly like Ricky from trailer park boys. Right on buddy.

[@sanitylogic4611]

Damn, I can't do any of this work on my jeep xj. The L is facing upwards of all places, I'd either have to take my steering slightly apart to get it from under the jeep, or pull the engine. What the hell.

[@Patriotic327]

Might be my leak....looks fun.

[@LiquidSquidYT]

I found the 3 o rings you mentioned but two more also came out where do they go? theu look like the one at the base of the thread and the one is like the one slightly higher up.

[@red4sierra]

Is that just a roll pin that stays in the block. My original 4.0 had it and my reman doesn’t. Any insight would be greatly appreciated

[@jan3019]

Had same jeep problem

[@kngrzz007]

How did you get that T-60 bit out it's holder, that's the problem I'm having, can't even start on it cause I don't have enough room

[@lh1678]

I don't know if I would have used the red locktite if I were you..probably the blue.

[@jmilko917]

My wrench bent try to take it off. Too bad can’t get impact on it

[@Raven-rf7cz]

were the seals on the inside actually bad or were you just replacing them because you were there

[@angeloromero735]

Where did you get your handy book

[@fakesfraudsfools9649]

Compared to mine. You didnt have a leak. You have a leak when the amount of oil dripping on the starter causes the starter to go bad. That's a leak.

[@Ramn8tr]

I already replaced the starter because of this leak. LOL!

[@AlanCSXFan]

What part number were the seals?

[@coupesix]

AlanCSXFan 4720363

[@dissociativecat7495]

what book is that ?

[@thatsilverxj7874]

Factory service manual. There are some floating around on eBay and I think there may even be a PDF somewhere. Mine has an orange color. Very useful tool imo

[@jeremyklekot2279]

Had to use a 12mm and half my 3 ton jack handle that son of a bitch was in there

[@DL-by8el]

I cant see mine is it possible the 04 jeep grand cherokee limited edition does not have one? 4.0 in line six

[@JeffDeWitt]

It IS an adapter so the filter doesn't stick straight out... there isn't room for that in an XJ. It might be that there was enough room in your GC so they didn't need the adapter. Does the filter stick straight out or is it parallel to the engine like this XJ?

[@DL-by8el]

I don't see it on my WJ good thing. My filter is straight out to the side perpendicular to the engine on the 4.0.