Front End Clunk 2013 Kia Sorento how to replace sway bar end links

[@slim1956]

Good video. I found out the hard way the importance of having a long enough pry bar is when doing this job. The 18 inch one I have used for years didn't provide enough leverage to move the sway bar up and down to uninstall the old links and drop in the new ones. My 67 year old guns ain't what they used to be. Lesson learned hahaha.

[@mikedixon8741]

Well done. I didn't know the sway bar link "clunk" was as common an occurrence as it is and now thanks to you, I don't have to pay someone to do it for me!

[@diehardjetsfan8870]

Great video. Was exactly the symptoms I was experiencing and your walk through helped me resolve it. No more clunk! Thanks

[@digicrewaustralia1774]

I got quoted $330.00 to have this done at a local mechanic. The two links including postage cost me $50.00 and now I can do it myself! Thanks very much for showing this. Awesome.

[@alabamared2568]

Detroit axle 27.99 for both i have a 09 kia optima

[@roblee3460]

Great video! Took only a few mins per side with the pry bar trick! Two different part numbers for right and left side. Also wanted to add it not only got rid of the small clunking noise on one side, it noticeably improved ride quality overall.

[@phillipsummers8137]

Switched out both sides today. Perfect instructions! The clunking went away and it rides better too. Thanks a ton for posting this video!

[@dougwigley8072]

When swapping out both sides, remove the top bolts on both sides and that will let the sway bar drop enough for easy access to the bottom nuts on both sides.

[@bigmikeymoose]

Thanks man! Appreciate the video... you'll likely save me hundreds in repair costs now!

[@bearpitrock]

Just been quoted £225 to get three replaced. Think I'll give this a go! Thanks

[@swizzler68]

Good video! Had all 4 stabalizers changed on my 2010 2.2l diesel kia sorento, plus the lower control arm due to similar banging noises. Thanks for the video on how these parts actually work.

[@ericjackson659]

swizzler68 did this work? Did it last? I am taking to mechanic soon and want to know some options

[@christiansigrist9244]

Mine was 10 years old. Never serviced... I was able to get the bolts of thanks to my superhuman strength :) (i did the rear) Tomorrow i'll do the front.

[@benwilson1979]

Fantastic video, thanks I’m getting ready to do the same thing on my 2014

[@TheEmptynesters]

Great instructional video! I love knowing the steps and pitfalls ahead of doing the job. Please mention the torque spec (72-87 ft-lb, 160-180 Nm)

[@Red-Eagle]

80 ft lbs is sufficient.

[@marianluc6235]

Are you nuts this is not an 80 lbs ft that is for wheel lugs man.

[@gedionsamuel2256]

Marian Luc Yeah definitely that’s overkill! This isn't a torque sensitive area where you can damage things by overtightening or risk losing parts from undertightening, however if it’s not tight enough the bushing will become ineffective in doing their job. That should be a 10mm bolt and as such you should aim for a 30-40 ft-lbs for that size.

[@josiahpierson3636]

Nice video, I'm currently working on removing the rack and pinion on my 2013 kia sorento , it's not easy that's for sure!

[@jasonb4566]

Is this a common issue? I got a 2013 sorento and had some metal noises going on and was replaced by dealer. But now (after 3 yrs since repair) i have some noise going on again.

[@josiahpierson3636]

@@jasonb4566 not sure how common it is but it's expensive to fix even out of pocket the rack and pinion runs about $1000 just for the part unless you are a shop you get a hefty discount on that price. I was quoted $2250 by the dealer and that included an alignment.

[@mimcan70]

Hello.What about a single clunking noise and physical knocking right beneath gas+brake pedal floor mat when brake pedal is released ? Why it is happening any idea ? Kia sorento 2016 at 60k km.thanks for your good advice.

[@JoseRodriguez-ye8mw]

Where did you buy the replacement from? I'm looking to get this part from advanced auto but they come individually, one for driver one for passenger. are they the same?

[@joesnowmobiles]

Hi Jose! The link is in my description of the video I got them at Amazon I believe there is a left and right but it’s been awhile since I did them it could be the same part Advance should be able to tell you if it’s universal. Hope that helps! Thanks Joe

[@allie675]

I replaced the lower control arm and the ball joint and most of the noice stop but it still makes sounds driving over bumps in the road

[@sameralzuhairi823]

thank you for this wonderful video...

[@pvpeter77ify]

Nice video. Very detailed. You make it look easy for anyone can do.

[@joesnowmobiles]

Thanks!

[@ChrischrosBelgium]

Are these the same for the 2009 sorento model (sorento 2, the model that was made from 2009 till 2014)?

[@heyoldman2003]

Good job Joe !!! Thank you for walking us through this repair....If the woman don't find you hansom .....They should at least find you handy !! hahahahaha Thank you again Joe

[@joesnowmobiles]

Thanks I love the Red Green show!

[@heyoldman2003]

Kindred Spirits👍🏼

[@lmsubman243]

And I'd rather be damn lucky than good looking😂😂😂 you said, partner!

[@hack001011]

GREAT JOB!!!

[@Solidsnake999]

Thank you

[@adamlogan384]

Is this the same as a "lateral link"? I have a quote that says "left lower control arm (lateral link)".

[@joesnowmobiles]

It could be, I'd just ask them if thats what they are referencing, most shops should be happy to explain to you. Thanks!

[@carsbmunny]

Great instructions thanks

[@herbertcheung7595]

Disconnect both top bolts on driver and passenger sides and you won't need a pry bar. The sway bar will move lower and then you can get an impact gun on the bottom nut!

[@Red-Eagle]

Not gonna torque it to spec?

[@Red-Eagle]

Torque both top and bottom bolts to 80 ft lbs.

[@kevinjames4072]

I just realized that I didn’t do it to spec either. Just did a moderate impact tighten. How f’ed will I be if I drive on that?

[@deusemaravilhoso8905]

Seus vídeos são muito bons !!

[@bajan246bim]

Both links are the same left and right

[@yoshimi82]

Wut. No, they are not. Don't buy your parts from this guy, kids.

[@haroldreyes7549]

@@yoshimi82 Both links are the same LEFT and RIGHT. OTHER MAKES and MODELS might (may)be different.

[@yoshimi82]

Dude, no. While the endlinks are interchangeable on certain types of suspensions (like those found in trucks), the left and right on these are different.

[@deusemaravilhoso8905]

Sou do BRASIL!

[@cdyoung976]

Good video but the replacement links you are using will not last long. I did the same thing on my wife's 2015 Sorento ex fwd using those same non grease able plastic backed links and had to do it again within a year! I just did them again with moogs. They are greaseable, the rod is at least twice as thick and the ball joints are considerably larger aswell.

[@321-sleep]

A GOOD TIP IS IF BOTH SIDES OF THE CAR ARE SUPPORTED ON JACK STANDS THE PRESSURE IS REMOVED FROM THE SWAY BAR LINKS THUS MUCH EASIER TO CHANGE. NO PRY BAR NEEDED.

[@mikestowe6136]

thats what i think mine is it sounds like my strut but only has 5,000 miles n strut isnt leaking

[@bajan246bim]

If you jack up the entire front you won't need the pry bar

[@pablogalindo7036]

Use a torque wrench and lift the front of the car and you wouldn’t need to pry bar

[@mikegresham9424]

Torque down to 85 ft lbs

[@gm19651]

Pry bar ! Not crow

[@sharmilathaygee]

Great Job !!