How To TIG Weld ANY Gap

Sharing my go to method for TIG welding up a gap. This is one of many ways to do it but I often end up with a weld that looks just as good as a perfect joint.
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[@JustVoss]

I made a newer, shorter version of this video using the same technique. It also shows the process more clearly. You can watch it here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aIiqqXR8npt4i68

[@musicman_hd607]

that de-rusting was the most satisfying thing ive seen in a long time

[@554drago]

I’m guessing you’re new to the welding world?

[@welders485]

25 years of experience tigging stainless, here is the best advices your going to ever hear about tigging a gap. Take your bad parts and toss them into the scrap bin and start over. Don't believe me try welding up a gap and see what happens. You will destroy your whole project when everything moves on you. Stainless pulles like crazy.

[@27walker27]

I’m just starting out tigging stainless, I purposely came on KZbin today to try learn about tacking thin stainless, I’m struggling to tack without vaporising it, if I can manage to get the 4 tacks I’m away, but untill then I’m just blowing holes instantly. I’m finding the gap has to be absolutely perfect!, and even when I feel iv got the gap right I tack one side and instantly it’s pulled on the other 🙈

[@shaund4155]

If the gap isn't as severe as that but still wider than your filler rod, try flattening the wire out in a vice or with a hammer to make it slightly wider, I've used that before and it works a treat. You could also maybe try doubling up on the rods so you have double the rod width to help bridge the gap. Just a couple more ideas 👍🏻

[@flatbedtrucker]

You would make a good welding teacher I’ve been welding around 13 years and I would recommend you to anyone your laid back and very knowledgeable nice channel by the way 🤙

[@JustVoss]

Thank you for that! I’m wanting to starting building more cool projects and hopefully people can pick stuff up along they way and I can also learn from them.

[@ashton6478]

Idk why I’m watching this I’m a very experienced tig welder but I’ll give you a like since I’m here. Pro tip; practice walking the cup or weaving your gaps, it makes filling gaps much faster

[@JustVoss]

Appreciate the like!

[@alexhise968]

The technique he used minimizes distortion. I do the tacks at the corners like he did but then I just do stringers to fill the gap without letting the stuff get fully joined till it all cools down.

[@roberthubbard9590]

I would use 2 or 3 filler rods and just weave the entire gap to save time. Not sure if that is the proper way but whatever works. I would imagine the tack method keeps the heat affected zone down though so maybe that is the correct way.

[@correyy]

I agree. This was painfully slow

[@Shifty51991]

you should warm him how much a pain in the ass walking the cup can be (fucking overhead) lol but if he can tig weld this good im sure he knows all about it :P first thing one of my instructors told me at the trade school i went to is he has seen grown mean cry from trying to learn tig haha he was about 65 years old himself and would admit he wasn't the greatest tig welder around.....stick on the other hand

[@kib2675]

When I was young I used to be a shipbuilder/welder. When we were stick welding heavy steel and there were sometimes gaps up to 30-40 mm. On a sunny day the sun might give you a hand as the temperature of the steel was rising, but normally we could not wait for that. So we would use a copper plate on the back as a form work and build up the weld.

[@fastone371]

A chill block!!!

[@streetfighterguy1909]

I would break the flux off of arc rod and use it as a filler wire feeding it into the arc puddle. It worked to fill some of the larger gaps very quickly.

[@kib2675]

@@streetfighterguy1909 I am sorry to say that some guys did that, but only once. They were sendt home. They were warned about that at their welding courses. Those welds had complete lack of fusion, penetration and looked like a swiss cheese on x-rays.

[@streetfighterguy1909]

@@kib2675 let me give it another run since it has been about 18 years since that old guy showed me that trick but I never remembered it having a lot of porosity. I'll toss something up today and review it again.

[@kenhollywood4990]

I’ve have been a welder for a long time and that is how I was taught back in the 80s,good job 👍

[@valveman12]

Good tip and I have been doing this for years. The multiple tacks are a great idea on thin metal as it reduces the length of time the heats stays in one place and therefore prevents blowouts and reduces warpage.

[@mathewmolk2089]

Tacks are deadly on code welds. ,,, Sorry gang. This is junk welding at it's best.

[@nonconformist4802]

@@mathewmolk2089 Sorry, but not all of us work for NASA

[@Imwright720]

That’s some seriously clean metal. I spent about 3 hours yesterday cleaning up a trailer to weld and it still looked worse than what you started with.

[@mightiflier5813]

That is the one of the beauties of a TIG welder. I'm not sure if the weld is as strong as a close fit, but looks like it should work. Also, lacquer thinner leaves a residue, acetone leaves virtually none.

[@talmania1]

Good method. I use another one: i weld all along the long tube once, from side to side of the short tube, and repeat the line again, towards the short tube, until the gap is completely closed. It's faster, it's cleaner, and it looks better cause no tacs.

[@CoagulaSolve]

I'm a welding student, I am starting Tig welding on a 2 in pipe Monday, this has helped alot.

[@chrispihack7588]

Dont do that on pipe! Damn tacks get in the way personally I cut mine out as I get close but I also back feed

[@mathewmolk2089]

DON"T TRY THAT ON PRESSURE PIPE! The in prosess inspector will write BORW with a soap stone right next to the weld. (Burn out, Re-WELD. )

[@ceesteven]

Nice work showing real situations. Perfect fit ups aren’t always possible or even practical. Good tips and nice cleanup on the work before welding. You’re quite a good fabricator. Thank you.

[@howder1951]

Nice! Being at an extreme rookie phase with no instruction, I am amazed at the level of detail in regards to cleanliness and buffing in comparison to "burning it out" with a 6000 series stick rod. Cheers and thanks!

[@GrindhousePerformance]

Really appreciate the care and attention that went into you producing this video. Very well put together! Thanks for sharing.

[@zenjon7892]

I had a 0.125-ish gap to fill around a cylinder. I started kinda like you with making bridges and then moved the pool from one piece, across the bead and onto to other. Pedal control was critical in the beginning, but it worked. The one problem I had was sugar on the weld itself. BTW, I'm glad that I'm not the only one who cleans the filler rod

[@peteclark9763]

I would "pad" the heavier side (the corner will take heat better) and build up in one or two passes with filler rod and let cool in between. when gap is the same size and closed up, then weave or whatever your preferred method is, Bridging is ok if necessary but puts a lot of stress on the weld as it cools and makes for more distortion. ALSO bad tacks and porosity may be a chimney effect of non inert gas blowing thru the tube from underneath.

[@shelliesman7552]

Justin, you are a very Qualified Welder, TIG Welder, and I’m sure that you are just as good in the other Welding Methods, Types of Welding. I made the Error of Selling my Just 2 Year Old Lincoln 300/300, that I Bought Brand New, that I Later told myself at the Time that I was Moving.... “I don’t want to Pay for any Storage, so I’ll just Buy a New Welder when I get into a House!” Hah!!!!!! I Paid for Storage anyways.... and I never Bought another Welder yet! 🤧🥴 I do have Four Beautiful Grown Kids, and 5 Great Grandchildren! I still Dream, I Dream Big Time!!!!!!! I have a Trailer that I would Love to Customize, without removing anything in the Garage, and so I’d like a TIG Welder to be able to do that. Keep up the Good Work!!!!! You Da Man, Man! 🥴👍

[@JustVoss]

Yeah definitely slower using a tig welder on a trailer but you wouldn’t have to worry about throwing sparks all over your garage like a mig.

[@Donce333]

Man, that rust cleaning is so satisfying

[@tptrsn]

Really enjoyed this video, and especially the one arc shot that you had exposed low enough to see your technique was really interesting. I saw that your process was: Add filler, back up a smidge, and then move forward to the next dab location. Very interesting!!

[@Redletterearthworks]

Hey dude, I’m a pilot for Victory Air and realized about halfway through this video that you ride with us, thanks for the tip!

[@0rez]

#humblebrag

[@JustVoss]

Hey man! I swear I replied to your comment! You flying this coming season?

[@hrlydave831]

The way i do that is to run a little bead on the tube. Now the gap is small enough to bridge . Thats how i do it.. It works well for me.

[@Thewaldo12345]

hrlydave83 yup I just run a bead on each side of the gap depending on how big it is then just fill in after.

[@lalogzztx]

I call this buttering it up lol 😂

[@nunyabizniss6934]

Usually the way I do it is to run a pass along the thin edge and thicken it up. Works with TIG or MIG. Then you can run a weave and easily drag the puddle across 1/8" gap, or you can just really push the filler in and run a straight bead. Another trick we used was to cut a piece of 1/8 rod and lay it on the gap, then weave over it with .030 rod. That was on chromoly race car control arms.

[@maggitmaster]

Lay wire and walk the cup or pad it then fill. I like the tooth tack technique, could be very useful where positioning is crucial.

[@johncamp7679]

I’ve only tig welded once, and it was at Evander Holyfield’s restaurant that he had in Atlanta. I fused the bar top and edge together. We also did all the handrail, but with a mig.

[@josephperry4344]

Nicely done Justin, I am considering a TIG welder as my next major purchase. You did a great job of illustrating how to fill gaps and make them appear as though they don't exist. Thanks for sharing.

[@JustVoss]

I would recommend it if you enjoy metal working for sure!

[@lcphantom2372]

I just got into tig welding as I am going to school for it and have been watching your videos now and welding for about three months with your gloves and didn’t even know it

[@JustVoss]

Nice! Hope you like them and that you’re enjoying learning tig.

[@SWC44]

I very rarely even wear Gloves!

[@TreYay83]

The initial tacks are good. But your right as far as weaving afterwards. It's super ez. Just point your tungsten at the toe add a drop of filler and feather it to the next toe. Rinse and repeat all the way down the gap. I love tig, and I can get lost in that arc, brushing away! 😁

[@justinfryer1347]

the last thing you want on a root pass on anything is a weave technique.. youtube can not teach you how to properly weld.. it can infact have you chasing your tail trying

[@TreYay83]

@@justinfryer1347 I've bent tons of tests that were purposely gapped. it's inevitable, you will run into it

[@Beamer866]

TreYay83 the toe is the distance across your weld aka how wide you weld is.. so what your saying is to point your tungsten down and weave? You certainly can’t mean point it back your weld would go black. Forward would point your tungsten into the gap. I’d like to see that weaved in one pass🤦‍♂️ So much heat, so much warp, so much burnt stainless, so much wrong. It wouldn’t happen nicely. From a red seal welder. I would tack the corners. Lay one fill pass on the corner of the square stock. Starting at the wider end. Let cool. Then with a slight weave hugging the fill pass and whipping to edge of other tube. Using a back fill technique with my filler rod. That would be my preferred method. On the 4th side I couldn’t back fill I would lay a 2nd fill pass on top of first, and then weave the last pass keeping my fill rod in the gap but closer to the edge of perpendicular tube. The “ teeth method “ works but would be very prone to contaminates, and inclusions. ( in pipe welding bridge tacks are always cut out due to them being filled with porosity and being hard to burn threw, we usually use plugs when possible ) Also your heat effected zone becomes much larger with all of the bridge tacks. Even multiple stringers with a high rate of travel would come out nice 👍 Remember a colourless stainless weld is the best! All this rainbow shit you see in weld porn is actually not ideal.

[@TreYay83]

@@Beamer866 i meant point your tungsten at the corner of the initial bridge and the work piece. Get a dab of filler in there then drag the arc across the bridge and point the tungsten towards the other corner of the weld and the work piece, another dab of that sweet molten filler and then drag it back across. Come on man

[@djyul]

I have been welding for 40 years now.Collet is not the problem.They are all a peice of copper with a split in them. I would put the sparking down to the corrosion inside the box being pulled out when tacking up.I can see you cleaned the inside but the corners are harder to clean. Dont waste your time putting lots of tacks in,just start and push your filler wire in and swing between sides. How do you think we weld pipes with a root gap in??? Also,always start on the box/pipe where the gap is tightest,that wil crimp down,then do the gap,starting from where the gap is tightest to the biggest.This enables the gap to crimp/shrink uniformly and keeps the pipe/box straight. And use bigger filler wire,looked liked you were using 1.6mm,go to 2mm-2.4mm,i am in europe,dont know what the inch size is. I am an x-ray qualified pipe welder. Hope that helps.

[@tfr6]

I hold a filler rod in the crack horizontally and tack it in place on both sides then i weave both pieces together. Its faster than this method but this is definitely an interesting idea that ive never used. Thank you Justin for teaching me something new

[@jasonsimmons6684]

I usually bridge gaps with stringers. I can span a fair gap with 1 pass. Other than that I'll run a pass on my solid piece and then make the other pass on top or side until I can tie them together. Depending on how I'm doing it. Glad to see your videos popping up in my feed again.

[@allaraaver8432]

Haha cool. This is exactly the method i use when mig welding big gaps, when the material itself is on the thin side. Once those teeth are in place you can easily go over it in a circle pattern. Filled up to 10 mm gaps on a 3 mm thick material no problem.

[@ryanjones9305]

I actually like that technique. I would generally pulse like a maniac with the foot pedal and pump a ridiculous amount of heat into the joint. I'm going to give that a shot next time. I've also ran strings on one or both edges to build it up to a point where I can just weld it out like an open root joint.

[@CHEVI789]

Good video, no rambling on, just a quick explanation and then right to the point.

[@kurtknapp4864]

Radnor is just the private brand name for Airgas, IMPORTED. I have been selling welding equipment and supplies for many years and have come to rely on CK Worldwide. CH has a wedge collet that to me is the best.

[@JustVoss]

I talked to them at fabtech this year. May start using their stuff.

[@kurtknapp4864]

@@JustVoss You will not be disappointed. All their torches are 100% Duty Cycle AC or DC, unlike Weldcraft and others with a reduced duty cycle on AC. Download their catalog and check it out, all the do is TIG so they have specialized torches for all applications.

[@shadorourke8955]

I run a bigger filler rod and keep the rod in the puddle. Maybe not the best way but it works for me.

[@monte9401]

I use a larger filler rod pushing it in until filling it, sometimes working torch side to side and back to the center and watch the puddle drop slightly then move forward. The larger rod helps to control the heat

[@DennysCountryLife]

Depending on the gap/material surface, I do the same with MIG. It works really well! Thanks for sharing!

[@eddie5556]

Thanks for the informative vid. For all the mig heads, this is a Info vid. Sometimes your mig machine is down, not available, or maybe all you own is a tig.

[@mathewmolk2089]

Then stick weld it. - Keep the heat on the solid part of the tubing and let the puddle just touch the cut esge of brnch tube. - There is no way what was done would ever pass a code quality weld inspection.,,,,,For the record I'm retired but got I got my CWI 40 years ago

[@ronmiller682]

I absolutely live watching your videos. You talk as if we are all equall (whixh we are lol) you dont seem to get to excited and ya work through the problem. Im learning quite a bit watching you. Thank you foe sharing. I would love to move down south and get a job working for a race team. Its my altimate goal.

[@avid0g]

Very Nice to see a good dwell time with inert gas _after_ the welding stops. Pulling the gas away too soon will allow the molten alloy to oxidize or hydrogenate and become weak. This is important for every tack weld. Perhaps your tack welds cracked because the surrounding metal had become too hot and later contracted a lot, pulling the weld apart. Try jumping to the colder areas, building up one tack per face. This will cause less expansion *and contraction* of the base metal. Once you have hefty tack welds, you can steadily weld towards or away from them safely. I agree with others that tacking some large filler into a large gap is a great way to close a gap. I would prefer to use something with a wide flat back, tapered sides, and narrower front, _so I can add filler starting at the _*_back surface._* It is not necessary to bridge the gap fully on your first passes. On your early passes, it is more important that the *back* surface is completely filled in - with no gaps, channels, or pits. For example, if large round wire is set into a gap, the back surfaces may not fill up, leaving two long grooves on the back surface. I would prefer to build up metal deep into the gap, so the back (inner) surface is strong. I think that running your weld into a completed section (that mostly stays solid) is a great way to avoid metal stress. But this also means that you have to avoid melting away the tack _where you plan to stop._ If the tack is not substantial enough, you will melt it all again and loose the advantage. This is why we run welds _into_ a previous weld - to both stress relieve the edge of the previous weld and minimize stress at the end of the present run.

[@ethantroy311]

I usually go with a bigger filler rod closer to the size of the gap but the teeth technique is interesting 🤔. I have to try it one day. Thank you again

[@andrewgable7273]

That was a pretty niffty idea. With luck, I should be learning TIG here soon. I'm excited about it. Liking this channel, getting to pick up some good tips and just over all basics. Thanks!!!!

[@Tgiles13]

Its actually nice to see people giving positive reviews on a video. I like the video, might try this if i come across this issue in the future!

[@HayabusaRydr]

Use gas lens if at all possible. Collett style work but you need a smaller cup size to help focus the gas. Also i agree with you on not mixing brands, just had an issue on a job where we had Miller parts but had a no name torch and when fully seated the Miller parts would not grab the tungsten. Put the same parts in a Miller torch and worked perfectly.

[@l_eaton46]

Been watching your videos for a while mate and got to say your angles of filming and how you explain it is brilliant! For someone like me who has been welding for less than a year now, it’s helpful when someone explain it in a way everyone can understand:) keep up the great work man !!!

[@MrRatkilr]

Watch all the videos you can. every good welder has a tip or two you may not have heard of and it will help you out later. I have taught people to weld.. but its hard to explain what or why I am doing while welding on a job I wear ear plugs in noisy environment. Earplugs keep slag and sparks from falling into your ear canal when you have your head sideways. but there are great welders and teachers putting out great videos on welding.

[@johntenhave1]

That is a most ingenious method with a great outcome. The vision bloomed during the weld process, but we knew exactly what was going on. I learnt a lot from that! Thank you.

[@ricardomontes373]

Awesome! Thank you Justin, the little teeth technique does work when filling gaps.

[@JustVoss]

You bet!

[@ukandeugoldpanningadvicean9921]

One of the best tig vids Ive seen very clear and articulate bloke. well done

[@Justintimemetal]

I think I may be having that same issue with my torch set up. I hope it is as easy as a fix as yours was. Thank you for the possible solution to an ongoing problem I have been experiencing

[@johnschmidt2123]

Love tig. So versatile. Can sculpt with it.

[@JustVoss]

Agreed

[@scottwillis5434]

Thanks for the video! Also a great motivational video for doing a better job of fitting up before welding.

[@user-LarryG1261]

Thanks Justin, I will be practicing some tomorrow myself, thank you for taking the time

[@merlin4809]

Let me say up front that I like the video, and if I had to bridge a gap and my mig and stick welders were broke this is the technique I would use. But let me also say this is a very labor intensive way to join two mismatched pieces of metal. It would be far quicker if material allowed to properly cut the tubes so they butt up nicely, then you could lay a nice stack of dimes after tacking up square. Barring that, there are stick rods (ie 7014) that are designed to bridge gaps from the get-go. Mig welding is also a fine choice if fits are poor and appearance is not critical. Structural and fail strength must also be taken into account when choosing your weapon.

[@MrRatkilr]

Its not the best way to do it. But it can get the job done. Depends on if structural integrity is important. or for warpage. I have used this technique on non-critical items.

[@benjaminibarra6692]

I really like how you take pride in cleaning your material Your awesome 👍👍👍

[@edbishop4307]

Appreciated the video. The correct way is the way that works for you. Looks successful.

[@JustVoss]

I agree

[@JoseHernandez-tm8ug]

Nice Just learning tig for stainless steel cold trap and came across a gap.. Thanks!!!

[@jedics1]

Some say that welding with a small gap for the metal to flow into makes for a much stronger join than one where the metal touches all the way around, makes sense because there is more surface area being made between the two pieces, another method Ive see is to grind a 45 degree angle on the ends where they join for the same reason, it gives a space for the metal to flow into and fill for increased surface area....

[@JustVoss]

I agree with the 45 degree angle. A small gap I’m sure is good but then the piece can pull one direction when it cools.

[@k0debynum114]

I do tight weave welds to fill most gaps. Thanks for the tip on how to fill the gaps a I can't fill do to the angle and might gun getting in the way.

[@dylanschmidt4166]

Dude thank you for the collet acknowledgement, I had no idea what was wrong with my torch.

[@94XJ]

Used to work at a furniture manufacturer in college. We'd be dealing with some wonderful 26 gauge sheet bent up on poorly maintained machines with some pretty big gaps. I've hit the gas and prayed, laid wire and tacked it in and built some little bridges. I never went as far as making a bunch of little teeth, usually just one or two spots to build from. I miss welding but not there! That was miserable work. The only people that cared if you made good welds were in paint prep or engineering. Literally had welds so bad come back from other guys that they fell apart when hung on the paint racks.

[@americathefree3708]

Texas tig myself. Planning on getting educated in the field of welding soon. And as far as closing gap with stick, basket weave works.

[@xalr6128]

i just started tig welding and i couldn't weld mild steel because it was blowing out just like that. thank you for solving my problem

[@rupert1124]

Great welding and camera work. Still getting used to arc but seeing you work with TIG makes me want to get one of these. Thanks.

[@JustVoss]

TIG is a lot of fun, you can get pretty creative with it.

[@weldingjunkie]

Good job Brother! Great example of bridging a gap weld. I’m like you I won’t use 1/8 on something that thin. I’d rather make multi pass then maybe a weave for final looks. I love CK for what it’s worth

[@dirtywelder483]

Wedge collets will fix tha problem for you mate.i had the same problem with standard collets swelling and twisting from use and heat..switched to wedge's and problem solved, made things so much easier..

[@zoozolplexOne]

thanks for sharing. Very interesting the part that underscores the cleanliness of the pìece before welding. I didn't know the acetone use after grinding to remove dirt, because when i looked to the pieces they already looked clean to me.

[@MrAcanine]

This looks really cool. I hope this Welding School I plan on going to in NYC opens soon. Covid 19 shut everything down. Look forward to learning more thru this channel until it opens.

[@jsdouglas83]

I have never heard of an issue with mix matching torch parts, in fact in almost 20 years I've never known anyone to have an issue. I currently run and Weldcraft torch, Radnor collets, and some Chinese knock off gas lens and cup set that I picked up on Amazon for 10 bucks....welds perfect.

[@billc7898]

I have not had an issue with different brand collets. I probably have about 5 different brands mixed right now. Now perhaps you got a part that was out of spec. Its great that you pointed out wiping down parts and wire. Even those mig wire cleaners help out alot. It really is amazing how they preach clean metal makes a better weld when they sell electrodes that are so oily and greasy

[@scottwillis5434]

I think the wire is oily / greasy because (A) that's lube for the wire-drawing dies and (B) it keeps the metal from corroding in storage.

[@Aint1S]

Just put two opposing tacks on the work and a third on the backside to keep it locked in place the measure you want your gap to stay... Then start at your first tack/bridge and run with it! The weld pool will follow your tungsten, you don't have to hedge your bets, by doing all of these unnecessary tacks. You'll see a good sized keyhole with a nice gap and honestly, it's easier with TIG to know what your penetration is going to be with a big gap. For most of the travel while walking the cup, you don't really need to add much filler wire since you're using thin metal. You've got to take the training wheels off and run with it to see the keyhole form and add filler where needed... Keyhole will let you know. Then keep on walking and you're going to finish the part.

[@JustVoss]

Appreciate all the comments, sadly I converted my KZbin channel today and KZbin deleted all of my replies! Painful part of the channel transfer process but should be good to go from now on.

[@kellyaraujo273]

Perfect.

[@ConstContact]

Watched the video.... and was ready to comment on the sizzle and spadder... I was ready to say hey no gas or wrong gas and as soon as you said different manufacturer parts! Got me thinking!!! I went through 3 different bottles of argon.... same not so nice!!!! Did everything changed from water cooled torch to air cooled and same thing... won't get into names but changed my cup which I loved and went back to ceramic cup and all gooooood! So yeah you are correct !!! Different collet, lense, cup will cause a nightmare!!! Thanks for the vid!!!! Nice to know I'm not the only one or crazy!!!! I mentioned to over 20 welders and I must be doing something wrong..... well I was !!! Just assumed I could take a lense and a collet and a cup from elsewhere and assemble it on one torch !!!!

[@raging_naclholic4636]

The "proper" way to do this (from my four years at welding school dont quote me in not a professional), or at least the way I would bridge gaps like this is to use filler rod that has the same width of the gap you are trying to weld and work in the filler metal with tiny half circles as you move along to spread it out nice, worked like a charm and came with some nice uniform welds! but i like the creativity in this video although i feel if i tried it i get way to many keyholes lol, but great vid!

[@solenceisi]

Just wondering if you watch This Old Tony? Some of your content is pretty similar. And that thumbnail is too

[@danieltubbs458]

Where is your shop? You mentioned air gas and I'm only familiar with the one off the 71. Are you in CA? If so are you hiring? I am in the welding program at Mt.SAC and working for an apprenticeship. Thank you and have a great day. Feel free to contact me [phone]

[@alecgray3075]

Personally I would use an 1/8 filler and do a slow weave at about 80 amps because the tubing is so thin, but that's also with a 3/32 tungsten, and not done the tacks

[@shawnlaughlin7327]

I have a bunch of different diameter wires and and whatever my gap is I grab a rod that’s slightly bigger or close to the gap width and waive over it. Correct term would be lay wire technique. Tig welded pipe being used in refineries, at least here in SE Texas are “basically” done that way. It’s excepted in every industry besides aerospace so should be just fine for structural haha

[@darkforcex7362]

I usually keyhole gaps. Feed the wire from the back side. Its easier to weave the puddle. Then again you can just use 1/8 rod and lay wire the gap. Depends on the application.

[@BoyNamedStacy]

Man I really need to pay more attention to my prep work. Your work pieces have a likeness to a operating room compared to when I tig 😂 so clean!

[@BoyNamedStacy]

@@JustVoss yeah I suspect if I were doing structural fab I would pay more attention to it, it's a good habit you've gotten into, though!

[@pauls466]

I think You have the cleanest shop ever .

[@eliapple1224]

To fill a gap focus more on the base metal add extra filler and then with the tungsten have the pool jump at the Gap Do a small bead on the edge of the base metal outside corner and then have a second pass that would fill the smaller Gap

[@evanarnold3663]

That’s how I’ve always done it on square tube 👍🏼

[@jeffreyking6016]

The radius is the thickest part of that fit up. So stack there and walk over

[@MrTamkus]

hi i am working as a welder for 8 years. i get situations like this very often and usualy i tack weld only corners and after that i do not do those teath, i just start laying weld on one better side, let it solidify, than lay some more on top of that weld until gap closes, this is much faster than those litle bridges

[@rjraworld7841]

A good Job Men. When I was doing welds on thin (2mm) structures, I used a 4mm inner backing plate for two things: 1. It helped me quickly melt and fill the joint. 2. There was much less heat input, therefore less members distortion. Good luck

[@adamswelding5052]

As someone who has done tig for years the reason it did that was most definitely not the collet. The reason it did that on the first weld but not the second would most likely be from it being tubing without a purge! I was always thought on tubing you have to have argon on the inside of the tubing if there is a gap or else it will cause the weld to be partially shielded.

[@melgross]

Adam’s Welding stainless requires an argon backpurge, but not regular steel.

[@adamswelding5052]

No but if you have a gap of any kind it will make the world of difference! And it won’t do what happened in the video, the brown color around the weld is a sign of lack of shielding. I have used tons of radnor tig consumables and never had a single issue so I don’t think it was out of spec I know it isn’t a premium brand but I have never had a issue. The reason I stated back purging is because that has always worked on any tubing with a gap for me!

[@crookedriver2079]

@@adamswelding5052 if that was the case, why did it work the second time but not the first? _The only thing that changed was the collet_ !!

[@jackiebutler5025]

Good job 👍

[@aroncharlwood1777]

Yeah I use the same method . You can also use a small bit of round Bar to fill the gap both will get you out of a jam but warpage can be a problem.

[@RMS-gl6wl]

That "gap" is easy if you use the "lay wire" technique you should only use bridging for x-ray welds. Lay wire is getting a bigger wire and lay it across the gap then you can run it over with the torch and some more wire. That undercut is because you don't use enough filler wire.

[@ultragamingag]

I use Pulsed Tig to bridge a gap it works realy well and it is fast .But good video.

[@sanderbergheim2832]

Hey, just a quick tip. I would hold the rod a little closer to the weld. Also, as long as you have it tacked on either side of the (start)(stop) you wont need all the tacks, and a welder who has to get all my welds certified and x-ray'd this weld im pretty sure wouldnt pass the standard our clients set for their products. Another thing. The gas from power shut to gas shut out of the pistol can probably be turned up by a tiny smudge. like 2-3 seconds. And i dont know how much gass/pm you have it on but from the sounds im guessing around High 12-mid 13. i would probably amp that up to 14-14.4 depending on the grooves/and or flat surfaces. you have to fill in (Metric measurements btw)

[@danielsheffer9912]

I usually just shove a ton of 1/8 fillet rod in! Works every time!!!😂

[@SWC44]

Been doing that for 40 plus years! THANKS

[@joelaulusa3774]

good technique. I used it sometimes with MIG on 3x2 tubing's on trailers.

[@rmjthunder]

I have always used the weave method but I will definitely have to try this, Your a lot better welder then me but I enjoy trying

[@rossbagley9015]

Was very interesting watching you learn how to video your welding during this video. Also, you've got me suddenly paranoid about my "just burn through the rust/oxide" approach to pre-cleaning the material and filler rod. I think I need to cut through some practice welds and see what rust and oxide actually does to the weld.

[@ricafe]

I am not saying you can square the tubes nicely to avoid those huge gaps and bla bla bla, I underdstand the purpose of this video. Maybe one thing could be done as "another method", filling the gap with a piece of the filler rod laying on the gap, tack it on each extremity and run the bead over. That's how I would try. Thanks for sharing !!!

[@diannekiefer2839]

That's what we do!

[@davidevans9543]

Also known as "slugging" Slugging is not a recommended method especially on structural joints that are required to handle heavy loads.

[@ricafe]

@@davidevans9543 Agreed my friend !

[@jeffreyking6016]

Cope the tube...and it'll sit right flush up against the other

[@oaxelo1]

Having access to both i usually just go for mig when i need to close gaps like this. but yeah i do a very similar thing filling gaps using the tig. Also i do a bigger filler rod. it all depends on the situation at the time. Good video, good advice . . Thanks man

[@mathewmolk2089]

Hasn't anyone heard of stringer beads?

[@ronmiller682]

Great video im just getting back into Tig welding and I do the same thing. I then find myself doing the weave or walking the cup.

[@gatorwing6231]

Really nice work. I am sure you know about solvents for cleaning but for others I was told never use brake cleaner to clean prior to welding as it creates very poison gas ( phosgene). I don't know if it is true but I play it safe and use acetone. Again nice video.

[@JustVoss]

I have heard the same thing

[@secondsilo]

Thanks, I'm new to tig welding and I'm trying to fill some gaps so this helped but would be much more helpful to see you weld as others have said. Really helpful though. Cheers!

[@JustVoss]

Thanks for watching, newer videos are more clear.

[@danielostle9460]

When I’m filling gaps I like to weld in reverse pulling torch backwards and adding the wire from the back of the pool ( bit like welding into a corner )

[@johnstuckey8229]

Off topic: welding across the faces of square tubing warps the pieces in a major way. Avoid warping by staying on corners and ends.

[@MrRatkilr]

Thats why it is better to just weld the sides. when you go across the piece... more likely for warpage and or stress or cracks.

[@tomthompson7400]

dont take this wrong , but thats the best advert for mig thats out there ,,, some days you just have to adapt to the situation ,,,, great video though

[@0paulk]

tom thompson Grettings from Germany Nice Video! just wanted to say the Same Thing im thinking about getting a tig or mig welder but it Looks like a mig would be bettet for my Stuff.

[@SegwayThessaloniki]

You are absolutely right on this 👍 That's a mig job

[@melgross]

I rarely use TIG for steel. Almost only if I’m down to 10 - 40 amps on very thin material such as 18 gauge or less, and not always with 18 gauge. Always with 16 gauge and thinner stainless, and thin aluminum as well.

[@bearup1612]

@@SegwayThessaloniki when will you lot use your brains before engaging your keyboard HE WAS GIVING A DEMON STRATION OF HOW HE WOULD WELD A GAP WITH A TIG WELDER !!!! not a mig or a stick

[@richardcaruso]

Yep. This is a lot of work. Just gonna mig it.

[@cegan04]

Great video, so much junk on youtube nowadays. a fella used to use 6" wire nails to fill gaps on RSJ's when we were welding up on site. I've used that trick a few times to get me over a gap!

[@JustVoss]

Thanks for watching hope you stick around!

[@josephschaefer9163]

I usually do stringers until I can weave it together. The only time I use Tig on carbon steel is on a high stress application like suspension. I use stainless filler so the edges of the weld don't rust and crack over time

[@XDarkXThanatosX]

Bridging a gap using those teeth isn't right or wrong, but with the correct spacing using that method would minimize heat distortion if it's a problem for thinner metals and you alternate the tacks. You can definitely use a weave to fill the gap, without doing the multiple tacks even. Lead the weld pool edge with the filler and you may need to weave the filler rod with the torch. As a final note: Nice beads and thanks for sharing your method. I'm going to try that next time I have a gap to fill. Better than having a too large weld bead on thin metal. Less filler as well.