Land Plane Part 2, a few improvements, lets see how it does

[@darrellbarbery3988]

I like this DIY project. While watching your video I noticed that when you got to the big ruts the beams slit right over them because the crown in the road was so high. Maybe drive a little more to the Driver's Right-Hand side to get more fill in the ruts, Do this both directions until you're happy with the fill in the ruts, then go back and address the crown by driving right down the middle a few times. Rinse and repeat. What do you think? Also, maybe a few more steel fingers at the front, say ever 4 - 6 ", and if you can spare the steel welding and cutting time, make vertical plow blocks at the front to help break up the ground a bit before it gets to the 45 deg channels. Just my 2-cents. :-) Great Idea, and video. Thank you for sharing.

[@TinyHouseHomestead]

Weld bolt on tabs for all of your grading parts! That way you can just bolt on a new set when the old ones get dull! 😁👍👍🇺🇸 Yep, you need a BOATLOAD more "rippers', ... and the next project is a Roller Compactor to go on the front! 😁👍👍🇺🇸

[@veggitarianredneck]

Yes when we get more time we'll prolly do just that

[@pablobrienza5765]

Great design, simple and very effective. On my dirt road, no stones or sand. It is made of black soil from agricultural crops. I'm going to test your design and let's see how it works. (Apologies for my English, only Google Translate.) Buenos Aires, Argentina

[@veggitarianredneck]

English is great brother, and thanks

[@pablobrienza5765]

More weight in front. This vehicle up the front land plane. Alargaría la cadena de tiro un poco y las cadenas las agarraría de las vigas doble t. Todo esto es para evitar que la truck levante el land plane. Gracias y muy buena idea.

[@pedjamilosavljevic6235]

This type of land plane (at least what I've seen) is used for loose ground , without big rocks. It is a pretty long road and if you are maintaining it just by yourself (with a help of your son) - it is a big task. Where I live (I mean - in a remote mountain villages w/o asphalt roads) , people gather up and do that kind of road repairing with tractors and other machines (farm equipment attachments , like rakes and plate ground cutters) and tractors do have hydraulics on the back , so they can apply pressure on the bumps , or ease up on dips (I've seen DIY rollers attached to the back of a tractor for compacting the dirt afterwards) . The big grooves in the road can be fixed either manually , or with real grader. I do think that you'll need more rippers , but , if I were you , I would put front beam (with rippers) at some angle (in relation to the direction of movement) , or in a shape of arrow tip , so that ripped stones can be pushed on the side (that is - if you want to remove them). You'll have to do a lot of passes , up and down , but , it kind of works. Oh , wherever here we have those type of roads - we have drainage ditches on both sides of road . I'm glad to see you putting up videos again 👍

[@veggitarianredneck]

Well I'm the only one there who seems to care about the roads. At least the only one doing anything about it. I do have a road grader just need to get it back together. I do agree with you about it needing to be graded. Every year I ad several 100 yards of gravel on it only for it to disappear. But one day I guess it'll pay off. Surprisingly it is better than it once was lol.

[@pedjamilosavljevic6235]

@@veggitarianredneck nylon (well , some kind of plastic) netting , usually used in fencing of construction sites, helps with preventing the dirt "eating" the gravel. It is very inexpensive (at least here). Water can pass trough it , but certain size of gravel not Like 3/4" , or 1 "). It basically works like netting on a snowshoes. There is a even thicker net (I mean smaller holes) used for shading (also inexpensive) for gardens and patios and whatever. It costs like a $1 for meter of length (40") with 2,5 meters of with (around 8 and 1/2 feet). You should try that on a small patch to see if it helps in your soil and with all the weather conditions you have over there...

[@musicat-home2454]

All you need to do is weld a bead on face and edges of any steel you want to harden for abrasive use The weld is much stronger than the steel iti is glued to. Get some kiln dry sand, weld one off the land plane teeth you want to install then bury the welded steel in 6" of sand. Walt a few hours or until the next day. Then install. Design rec. Instead of making your middles " flat" I would've welded the passenger (right) side at the top of the rail to create a crown in the road. It would drag your dirt in from the sides and keep it proud of the " gutter". It also gives the run-off a place to go . I grew up on a dirt road with same issues If you want to complicate the build you can make it adjustable so that it pulls flat or pulls a crown. Go Montana!

[@todamnbad]

What about connecting the chain to the top of the I beam about 1/3 of the way towards the rear, that might vaudeville the front to be pulled down and get it to dig in more

[@UsDiYoNa]

I agree, welding some train rail clips or heavy rebar “handles” to hook chain to onto the I beams about 4-8 inches back ought to be plenty far enough without causing it to dig in on the front so much that it flips, while fixing the lift in the front and simultaneously putting more pressure at the forward-most bottom edge.

[@veggitarianredneck]

Yep I agree too, fact ima gonna do just that

[@jimthomas1989]

Homemade is the way to go

[@veggitarianredneck]

Agreed

[@adairjanney7109]

how many watts do those alternator wind generators make, I live in se idaho so the wind is pretty damn good

[@margarita8442]

doubt it work -- waste of time