Laser Engraving in COLOR! Diode Laser & Co2!

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[@Tkrain]

I've been working on Powdercoating with my xTool D1 for a couple of months now. I found the best way to defeat the fan blowing all of the powdercoat away is to put a piece of clear glass between the laser and the material (I use a glass from an old frame) raised up at least a millimeter from the material (or you'll be painting the glass!). This trick lets me work with the lighter colors (white, silver, yellow, gold) that I had no end of trouble with before putting in the glass. I've also been able to do 45 degree cross-hatch and offset fills with some success, but with the offset fills, too tight an interval creates issues. Another thing I've done, when I etch and pocket fill tile, is to run one more quick pass over everything with a clear gloss powdercoat overtop of the powdercoating I've already done. Then I bake the tile afterwards for 10 minutes at 400 (I have a toaster oven for this purpose) and the resulting product has an amazing glossy shine to it. After seeing your layered compass, I can see I've still got to up my game! Nicely done, Rich!

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Thanks for those tips Brian! Still a work in progress! 👍

[@gertkruger371]

Hi Brian, so just to make sure I understand correctly - you first etch the tile, then apply your powder, then put over the glass raised 1mm and then run the laser again ?

[@garyhughes1707]

​@@gertkruger371 that's what I got from it bro 👍🏼

[@markvisconti8605]

Tried this evening with some red powder coat from Prismatic Powders. I used the glass trick, but wasn't able to achieve good results. Everything from burned powder coat in engraved sections to unengraved sections where the powder coat adhered, but the coverage was poor after brushing it off. Any hints here, Brian ? Also, speeds and feeds for diode laser (20w in my case, but I think just getting in the ballpark would be good). I was everywhere from 1200mm/s @ 10% which would usually end up in burning to 6000mm/s at 10% which wasn't really doing much. I didn't go up into the higher % power ranges because I was getting burning at 10%. Also, when filling, how about lines per inch ?

[@isuzucrewcab]

@@markvisconti8605 Are those speeds correct?? Was per second or per minute??

[@bigdaddy111058]

Rich, you are an absolute blessing. I just found your multiple cut and engrave libraries. Please keep it up. I would be completely lost without your help.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Wow, thank you! I love my hobby, so there's plenty more to come!

[@michaelsojka3265]

I just got my laser a week ago and have learned more from you than anyone else. I appreciate your videos. Keep up the great work.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Awesome! Thank you Michael!

[@flex-ranger2]

Hey mate, little tip for brighter colours. After the first burn grab a vacuum with a stiff brush, vacuum out the charcoal which leaves the indentation the same colour as the wood (taking away the black). You can use a damp cloth also or run under water and use a paint brush. Lay the powder and burn. Because the black is now missing the colours will pop significantly 👍🏻😉 Great video 🥰

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Thanks! If you look closely, you'll see the towel I used to clean it after the burn. I always clean my burns with misted water.

[@Wolf8407]

Thank you for all your videos. I haven't had my laser (xtool d1) for long but your videos have made learning how to do so much with it easy and rewarding.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Great to hear it Jake!

[@sharonfischer2272]

I’m glad you are still experimenting with this. I found that if the powder coat paint isn’t stored in a cool environment and gets too warm, it wont stick as well when applying it. It gets a little gummy and doesn’t stay in the engraved area as well. Because of that I now store my powder coat paints in the refrigerator. I have used this powder coat method on bamboo and wood and have been successful with blue, red and yellow. I wish I could attach a photo to show how much color I was able to get. I have a diode laser but my power when burning with the powder coat paint was much lower. I found when using a higher power I was burning the paint instead of melting the paint.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Oh... thank you Sharon! Maybe if I put the light colors out in the humidity it'll solve my problem! Brilliant! 👍

[@plasma453]

Interesting that you say the powder clumps at warmer temperatures. I powdercoat large objects in the traditional way using an oven. I live in Queensland Australia and it gets well above 100 deg F in the workshop a lot of the time, never had any issues with powder clumping though. Powdercoat does have a shelf life of around 3 months but in practice, it's much longer.

[@JohnStreu]

Another great video Rich. Beautiful compass project. I’m learning so much. Thanks for sharing.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Thanks for watching John! Much appreciated!

[@JZee49]

Another great video. That compass rose was truly impressive. Thanks again for all your time you are very generous.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Thanks again John!

[@craftingwithjean5599]

Thank you for teaching, sharing, encouraging. I’m still waiting for my laser to come in and am excited to start using your tips.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Awesome Jean! Bet you can't wait to get started!

[@Msjeauxmomma]

Thank you so much for your videos! I just added a laser machine to my craft making. I’ve wanted to try this for a long time. I have learned a lot from your videos! Glad to learn from a fellow NOLA neighbor. Just Ed move from New Orleans to Gretna. Looking forward to learning more from you!!!

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Welcome to the obsession Donna! I was just in Gretna this past weekend for the parade!

[@golddiamondsgdpc3035]

YOU JUST HAD MY BRAIN ON 🤯 with being able to engrave ANYTHING IN COLOR. This is gonna make my craftsmanship business take off. This video is great

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Awesome! That's why I do this!

[@johndiego3105]

The compass is so very nice. I like the details on it and how you explained the process.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Glad you liked it John! Thanks!

[@stuartmccreadie501]

Another great video again , looking forward to giving this process ago , thanks again Rich

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Go for it Stuart!

[@tomtimmons2228]

Awesome tutorial Rich. Thanks.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Thank you Tom!

[@darrellreed7044]

I’m very excited to see results of further tests with mica powders and a diode laser! 🙏🙏🙏 I use mica in my epoxy projects and absolutely love the look. Thanks for, as always, a really great video!

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

I don't really use mica powder Darrell. Powder coat comes out much better.

[@Cyphera59]

Great video Rich, thanks for all the time & material you put into this that allows us to get results faster. The projects look great. I'm going to give this a go, I have mica colors that I used to tint epoxy. Bought those magnets last month, the only trick is be careful with them so you don't lose a finger! :)

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

You can say that again! And don't get 2 stuck together either! 🤪

[@bigmd1343]

does mica work the same way ?

[@amysteryprojects]

Thank you for taking the time to teach us this process, It can assist in making some amazing projects, very professional finish,

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Thank you very much!

[@ikfssa]

That’s sounds really cool, they figured out a paint inlay! Awesome!

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

I think so too!

[@robmills4709]

Great, interesting video Rich ,brilliant results. The compass turned out fantastic.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

You should see it now Rob! Sanded, triple coated and waiting to be glued up! I'll post a picture soon.

[@robmills4709]

@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy look forward to seeing it, really impressive 👍🏻

[@Colt-4570]

Great video! The layered compass looks very cool. I've seen people do layered burns before, but I wasn't intrigued until I saw the detail in your compass. New subscriber.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Awesome! Thank you!

[@ralphandkarendelgado4546]

Thank you Rich great video. I'll try to keep up with all your great ideas.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

You're welcome! Thanks for watching!

[@LarkinLivesayJr]

Thank you, awesome video as usual. Invaluable information.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Glad you enjoyed it Larkin!

[@jamesgreene3201]

I'll be working on this one this weekend. No Powdercoat, but many different stains to apply. Thanks Rich !!!

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Have fun with it James!

[@randyday3278]

Informative video Rich, i really dig the process. No c02 laser yet, so I'm looking forward to the diode laser video and info.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Well you're good with all the dark colors Randy, it's just the light ones I have to figure out.

[@AndrewR74]

Very cool, thank you Rich. So much to learn

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Glad you enjoyed it Andrew!

[@CESAR_H_ARIAS]

Perfect for a Sunday morning with a cup of coffee

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Great to hear Cesar!

[@knitsewfancy]

That compass rose looks great!

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

You should see it now Dottie, with the triple coat finish!

[@juliemyersofficial]

You are amazing! I figured out how to work my laser engraver and my lightburn software by watching your videos! Thank you so very much!!! And your work is amazing 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

You are so welcome! Thanks for watching!

[@juliemyersofficial]

@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy I have an ortur laser master 3. With lightburn. I have a vinyl business where I make designs, logos, tshirts, hats, stickers, signs, etc. My software for those is very similar to lightburn. But of course different settings for cutting and embroidery, not for power. I've been doing that for going on 7 years now. I just wanted to add a little extra to what I already do. And the engraving and cutting takes it to whole new level. I have watched hours of your videos. And to set up lighturn with my ortur, you have helped me more than any vlog or website! You definitely don't get enough credit for what you do! You are an amazing person, very creative and innovative!! From the Bottom of my heart, thank you, thank you, thank you!!! I can't wait to see what all I can create. Oh I just engraved a ring holder for my goddaughter and her new husband. It was on a piece of wood that looked like a chopped log. We engraved their name "Paris" with an 🗼 as A...P🗼RIS...like that. Their names, and 2 rings 💍 intertwined. And 2 slots that holds their rings. It was pretty amazing and definitely a show stopper! I am putting some hangars on the back so they can hang it up. Hopefully anyone who reads this, this will give them inspiration!! My slogan for my business (Myers By Design) is "Inspire, design and create" Have a blessed day!!!🙏🏻

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Love the P🗼ris idea! Very ingenious! My motto is, inspire, create, learn, teach. It's at the top of every page on my forum.

[@OzarkArtsandCrafts]

Great job explaining the color engraving. I have a diode laser so I'll get something going in that direction.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Join me on the Saturday night 9pm livestream on the Laser Makers Realm channel. We'll be going over more on this topic! www.youtube.com/@lasermakersrealm

[@kennyd.5743]

I saw another KZbinr do this a few months back and thought it was cool!! I haven't tried it yet but I have loads of PC i can play with. Neat stuff Rich!

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

People have been trying this for about 2 years now. It's not new, I'm just trying to perfect it Kenny.

[@paragonn22]

Good stuff man! Thanks for sharing!

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Thanks so much!

[@timleck2933]

I love the Compass Rose nice work

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Thanks 👍

[@JodySkyWalker]

Thank you so much for sharing this!

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

You are so welcome Jody!

[@rebeccareulet131]

Another great video. Thanks

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Thanks again Rebecca!

[@MikeNHOC]

Thank you for sharing!! Excellent information..

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Thanks for watching Mike!

[@christopherdivirgilio9861]

Hey Rich ... Wow, this is pretty awesome. I'll have to give this a go on my laser. Not sure this was brought up but is this process limited to wood or can this be applied to other materials? Keep up the great work. Cheers!

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

You can do it on anything you can engrave Christopher!

[@johnnyringo7194]

Awesome idea with the magnets

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Thanks so much!

[@sitgesvillaapartmentneilsc7924]

very nicely done, we've been fusing with diodes and Co2 lasers with powder coat for a while now with Acrylic here in the UK and Spain where I am and it works really well, you just need to practice to get the settings dialled in, after that a piece of cake, just watch your lungs with that dust..... Its easy with the c02 just a pain with a diode fan , I use a small piece of plastic and vent the air in a different way when I do powder colouring. Magnets area great idea for those of us who are lucky to have steel bed......although Lightburn's camera function can get you back to perfect alignment just as well. great video and very useful of you to share. thank you. My friend in the UK has no problem getting powder coat by the bucket load in the UK like 10 gbp for 10 kilos of about 15 colours, here in Spain bugger all....I have to import it.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Ventilation is always very important!

[@A3Kr0n]

That's pretty cool. I like the slight bluish tinge on the unfinished wood. My first guess would have been to finish it with something like shellac, then burn through it and use it like a resist mask when painting it.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Worth a try!

[@thecarweewoodworker8629]

Very ingenious idea.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Thank you very much!

[@sammcmoor]

Hi Rich, great Video, really great 👍🏼

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Glad you enjoyed it Sam!

[@paulruggiero6808]

Awesome video as usual, Rich. I too have been playing around with powder coating powder. I have an xTool D1 and designed and printed a cover with side vents that installs over the business end of the laser that redirects the cooling fan air out to the sides. It also has the 20 mm opening for the air assist ( which of course will be turned off while using the powder) and a clear window for the cross hairs to still be utilized.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Can you get the white to melt without blowing off Paul?

[@paulruggiero6808]

@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Haven't tried white yet. I've done Blue, Red and Orange. I don't see why my cover wouldn't work for the white

[@Tkrain]

@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy I've also got the xTool. I've been able to burn the white no problem (with glass). Keep the laser fast and weak for the lighter colors, though, or you'll get gray or black instead of white.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

@@Tkrain Glass didn't work for me.

[@nohc4]

Hi Rich, I'm a photographer who is in love with lasers, I'm a total newbie to all this, in fact thanks to your videos is why I've got my Genmitsu LC40 and I love it. Well regarding about binders to hold the powder paints on place to avoid staining the wood and avoiding any harmful fumes, you can try a very simple material that I use in analog photography when I need to create something to hold pigments for my alternative photographic techniques, that is egg white. You can have some egg whites on a little bowl and with a foam brush just brush the surface with a thin layer and let it dry, then apply another layer on top with a little bit more of a generous amount of egg but not brushing too hard to lift the previous layer and immediately sprinkle the powder over the egg while still wet, let it dry and then let the machine blow the excess. My explanation for the first thin layer is to seal the wood or the surface to create a primer for the second layer to hold to, and then the second layer creates a kind of emulsion type of layer just like the photographic silver emulsions are on top of film. For the second layer you'll have to play with the amount of egg white and pigments you desire, please whisk the eggs first to break the surface tension and help it to spread more easily, then you can wipe off the layer with a wet cloth or rubbing alcohol, it may work, give it a try and please let me know if it works, I really want to know. Note: You may use the whole egg, just whisk it very well and then strain it to get rid of any clumps and foam, you want a very homogeneous liquid, also you can mix the colors in and make a sticky mix and apply it to avoid the clumps it may form when sprinkling the powder, please note the very first layer "the sealant layer" is after the first engraving, or you can brush it first for a deep black also like the mica for intense dark results, I guess eggs will burn black without harmful fumes. Thank you for sharing all your knowledge with all of us. Nuurs

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Interesting... I found just covering it with clear picture frame glass did the trick!

[@nohc4]

@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy That is a very clever approach! Awesome!!!

[@billphillips6086]

Thanks for the video! I haven't used my engraver for awhile and was reviewing techniques and found this one. So many great makers sharing. A quick idea on the diode laser fan problem that might help. Can the fan be flipped to pull air up? It won't be as effective but should still cool the diode and help with the powder.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

No Bill, that would ruin the lens pretty quickly.

[@gregrichmond8707]

Another great video! Love the look of the blue print! I am new to this hobby and find your videos extremely informative. I recently purchased an Atezr P20 and am having a fun time learning how to use it. With your suggestions I’m able to etch photos that actually look like photos. I am interested in the compass rose and want to know if the file is available for purchase.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Awesome Greg! 👍 Thanks for watching!

[@rodneyrockwell9967]

Thanx Rich awesome

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Thank you so much Rodney! I really appreciate it! 👍

[@wolfgangdeletter3736]

I like your Videos soooo much and i learn a lot of it,thanks for that....😊😊😊

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Thank you so much Wolfgang! I really appreciate it! 👍

[@coralwegener6861]

Awesome as always!

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Thank you!

[@jasonm887]

The 16 looks blue bro. That's awsome work.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Thanks 👍

[@droidvegas331]

I really like how you include a realm of projects and possibilities. You never restrict our creativity, you're always fluid in your demos. Really, l appreciate your love and knowledge to this craft.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Thank you so much! You're making me blush! 😊

[@golddiamondsgdpc3035]

That is amazing 🤩

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Thanks👍

[@LeariWavan]

Rich these are awesome videos thank you. A quick question do you have a link for that compass file? Looks great!

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

No I don't, sorry, that's my design. There are others out there though for sale Rick.

[@robertcombs8281]

Love all your work, You mentioned you engrave Marble. How do you treat the Marble to withstand getting wet and then freezing/Cracking?

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

I seal it.

[@floridalove]

First: Like! Second: Take a look 👀 ...After: The Legend is alive!

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

🤪🤪

[@centralseac]

This is truly formidable and it opens a whole new range of products that can be created. Just an idea. What if you invert the diode laser ventilator so it draws air upwards through the heatsink instead of blowing downward. It should cool the laser module by the same degree theoretically because the speed would be the same. Great video.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Yes, that's been suggested. I'm going to try it Raymond!

[@ninthny]

Fantastic! For the diode light colors, how about doing a deep burn, like a second pass at 90 degrees, on the areas that you want the light colors? Then you would have more powder in those area. Maybe you would have more powder to melt. Just an idea.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

The light colors are like baby powder. It'll still blow out Wayne.

[@VintageForYou]

Hi, Rich another great video I would like to know have you ever tried engraving on canvas.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Yes Malcom, lots of times! I'll have to try the powder on canvas, great idea!

[@markdrags9277]

Thanks!

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

You bet! Thanks for the support!

[@CasaDeLoco_BoredBob]

Hey Rich I had a thought on your diode laser testing. I know that on my laser (S9) there is a distance between the laser head and the work that it normally covered by the plastic safety ring, I know that there are a number of different versions of a 3D print file for eliminating that shield and adding air assist to the setup. My thought was that maybe instead of an air assist adapter you could fashion an air deflector. Basically the air is blown down past the head and exits at the bottom once it's done it's job of cooling. Maybe instead of allowing the air to continue straight down it could be deflected outwards or even upwards at an angle with a 3D printed adapter that still had a hole of the beam to pass through but redirected the majority of the cooling air away from the project when doing powder. Might be something worth trying.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Yeah, I have thought of that, as well as adding a clear piece of glass inside and drilling holes on sides of the module, but I'm trying to find a way to do this so the average user can do it.

[@peterstenabaugh3041]

Hey Rich, yet another option here would be to use a dedicated laser module. Since you dont need huge power, perhaps consider one of the 15W ortur lasers - with the adjustable lens. Now install a long focus G8 lens on the laser. This will allow you to raise the laser up and maybe that would make enough difference on air flow. But I see also your idea to reverse the fan, that could likely work well also, since you are using a very low power setting the laser wont get as hot either.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Yeah Peter, that would work, but I'm trying to make this work with no mods so everyone can do it.

[@Essentialvideophoto]

Very interesting Rich but as for me Im still in the forest yet Product itself looks amazing Appreciate your class. Thank you

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

My pleasure Bob!

[@sezaikamer6737]

thank you very much.I'm learning from you.thank you

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

You are welcome!

[@sezaikamer6737]

Thank you

[@golddiamondsgdpc3035]

You just got a new subscriber ☺️

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Welcome aboard!

[@csseay6986]

Hey Rich, do you have a video on engraving the headstone?

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

No, I did publish one last year and got too many negative comments, so I took it down. I will be doing another one with a different theme soon though, with both slate and granite.

[@storer01]

Great video as always, with the diode could you put a sheet of glass on top of the powder to stop it from blowing away, as the laser would go through the glass. Not sure if this is feasible or not, but could be worth a go.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Tried it, it discolors the white from the smoke Terry.

[@007JHS]

This is something I'd like to try...er?...When I've got some expertise in lasering in general...Still have to assemble my machine.... Oh... And your T shirt is really cool.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

You can do it! And thanks!

[@robinmichael8544]

Really enjoy your vids. I just wondered, how did you manage to put the first product with the blue color exactly in the same place in the co2 for the second burn? Was it the magnets, and do you trust they wont move? 🙂

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Yes, it was the magnets Robin. However, you can tape a framing square down to the honeycomb if you don't trust the magnets.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Next try is flipping the fan over on the top of laser. That should work! Patrons can download the Compass Lightburn file on Patreon's website.

[@Dieselfitter01]

Hi Rich, I would also ask if you could bring the laser up out of focus to hit more dry paint at once but you might need to have it trace and adjust for the out of focus. Great content as always, looking for your next video. Thanks.

[@criticallook1352]

@The Louisiana Hobby Guy *April, 2022 Laser Giveaway!* ??? Yet, the *Giveaway Rules & Terms* states as follows: PROMOTION DESCRIPTION: This Laser Giveaway ('Raffle') for the Comgrow Z1 Laser Engraver begins on 02-01-2022 and ends on 02-28-2022 (the 'Promotion Period'). :

[@criticallook1352]

All 11401 Total Entries must be invalidated due them each agreeing to Rules & Terms which states, in error, a past date of FEB 2022 for the end of the promotion period. I declare myself the winner of the APRIL Comgrow, 20W Diode Laser, for presenting you with your blunder. :

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

@@criticallook1352 Did you read the last paragraph?? 🤪 Not sure how you can declare new rules, but whatever!

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

@@criticallook1352 Really? I don't see it.

[@pblais404]

Hi RIch...I thought I would share unused powder reclamation method. (nice title ay?) I use a cookie cooling bakers rack to hold my items when cutting. When I use powder coating powder, I put my item for engraving on that rack. I place some thing under the item to collect unused powder ( I use a 8x10 inch piece of yellow manila filing folder). When I am done applying the powder, I just scrape it off and let it fall through the cookie rack onto my collection paper underneath and just collect it when I am done. I will just leave it there until I am completely done and when I can just remove the cookie rack. If there is any cutting involved, I just slide the collection paper out from under the rack and recycle the the powder right then. This way, I never have to remove the item from the laser until I am completely done... Cheers and happy lasering

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Awesome idea Pierre! Thanks for sharing! 👍

[@mgervais10]

Just saw your video on coloring laser. Place tape where powder coat is not needed. Add paint. lift tape off giving you clean area. Now tape hold area with no over lapping. Waiting for my pic to come in from Amazon will try it soon

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Using transfer tape doesn't change the process.

[@warrenking1815]

Have you tried any gold or silver with this method. I also would recommend applying the sand and seal first to the wood panel. Love the color on your compass also the detail

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

No, I don't have those colors, thanks.

[@rickmccaskill7888]

Really great project. I am going to try this out. Thank you. Question: Did you try to seal the board first before engraving?

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Not on the test pieces, and wouldn't you know, I forgot to do it on the compass as well. I never forget to put the sanding sealer on... except when I'm making something thousands of people will see! 🤪

[@droidvegas331]

@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy so should the sanding & sealer be applied after the color is lasered?

[@Mtbeaver9]

Rich, have you tried spraying with hair spray to control the powder? Just a thought. thanks for another great video.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

No Charles, but I was able to get a piece of 2mm glass from a cheap photo frame to cover it with and that worked.

[@charleschilders2041]

I can get a deflector to divert the diode fan for my laser (Xtool 10w) . That should stoop the powder from blowing away.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

I'm trying to find a way for the average user to do this. There are all kinds of mods that can be done. Glad it got you thinking Charles!

[@winklers12]

Very nice great video

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Thank you very much Tony!

[@karenchidester43]

Interesting results with light colored powder paint on diode laser. I had similar cutting difficulty with my diode laser when I tried cutting white on white cotton quilting fabric. The white pattern on the fabric is painted.onto the surface somehow by the manufacturer, but something in the properties of the paint caused the laser to skip over the fabric surface of the cutting edges. I got clean cut edges when cutting black fabric, but not with white. I think the light reflective properties of the white paint interfere with a diode laser similar to trying to cut clear acrylic.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Yep, diode lasers have a problem with white because of the 455nm frequency.

[@user-hq5qe6gg7g]

WOW, I appreciate the content of your videos. I just started using Lightburn and whenever I can't figure something out I always check your channel to see if you've covered it and I have not been disappointed yet. I thank you for all the effort you put into your videos. Do you by any chance have a link to the powder coating you used, I couldn't seem to find it.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Thanks! And no, I don't have a link since I bought it in bulk locally. But Amazon and Harbor Freight both have it.

[@PIRATES3D]

Hi Rich. First, thanks for the effort and dedication you put in every video. Second, depending on the focal length of the diode laser you can't put a glass between the laser and the surface you are engraving with the powder? Best regards, Fernando from Portugal

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Most modern lasers are now switching to short focus Fernando, so there's only a mm or two of space. But maybe on a long focus.

[@Tkrain]

I have the xTool D1 10w, which has a shield which is easily removeable, leaving me plenty of clearance to put glass between the laser and the work (make sure the glass is at least 1mm, better 2mm from the work so you don't get interaction with the glass instead of the work). Many lasers (my Dad's old AtomStack comes to mind) build the heatsink housing all the way to the 2mm mark, which renders using glass virtually impossible.

[@24-Card]

The similarities to Screen Printing are uncanny!!! I will pursue this - HARD! Thank You!! 🧐🧐🧐

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Go for it!

[@stephenspencer2121]

Nice

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Thanks!

[@turtleplates]

3d print a diverter for the nozzle area to divert the air blowing down away from the powder

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Yup, lots of easy solutions, but I'm trying to do this so anyone can do this with no mods.

[@bryonhunter4558]

Hey Rich, when you mention the fan/cooling of the diode laser are you refering to the air assist for the Xtool D1 or is the air assist an optional component?

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

I was referring to the onboard laser module fan, not a separate air assist Bryon.

[@mikebari3225]

I think using a flour sifter or maybe a really fine mesh to sprinkle the powder on would get a nice even coat and even out the color

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

A sifter and baby powder is the way to go Mike.

[@shs00625]

Hey Rich There is another method for your reference Embossing powder (Tsukineko Emboss) can be used Just need a glue pen to paint the engraved seams Let the relief powder not be blown away by the wind Reheat the air gun to heat the relief powder This will make the whole layout more clean and beautiful

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

I'll look into that, thanks! 👍

[@nothing2tube689]

Hey buddy just a suggestion shellac is really good at sealing Great vid BTW can't wait to give it a shot. I've just got the Comgrow Z1 and so much to learn. I'm gonna get there😊

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

I use Zinsser Shellac all the time!

[@nothing2tube689]

@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy good stuff 👍

[@hectortorres8580]

This is Hector. You try to mix silver mica whit other colors so that way the reflective effect off the silver help to preserve the color you want like playing whit the deflexion off power.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

I haven't even gotten to mixing colors yet Hector!

[@billfox379]

Followed his lead and got a great first burn. Amazed at how little power was needed. Started way to high.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Awesome! Thanks for watching!

[@SwervingLemon]

I do this with a grout float and very light pressure, almost like I'm silk-screening a shirt.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Nice! I started using a trowel myself!

[@theZ3r0CooL]

The best option is to get a duct to redirect the lasers heatsink fan output off to the side instead of toward the job after it passes through the actual heatsink of course. Usually it helps blow some smoke from burning material away so the laser isn’t obstructed, but that’s not a huge issue when melting and bonding things. Instead of turning the power down you could also have a second job from the same project that only traces the center of the graphic, then unfocus the laser some to spread out the power. It works well for lettering, speeds up the process and lets you gradually step power up easier to find the melting point without scorching. Harder to calculate exactly what power is hitting the surface but since it’s only a center line you could run back to back tests rather quickly.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Thanks for the comments!

[@cowboy6591]

I can see the blue hue. It's almost Violet.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

It's blue... the camera picks up a different color.

[@IanFlyinGremlinRCNZ]

I have seen this process with other and thought yes I want to try that, I did buy some powder coat paint. "chameleon colour" but I am guessing thats a little way off before I try it, got to get laser up an running agin 1st. Anyway I love the compass, its fantastic, I hop to make something like that one day, I still havent mastered the cutting process. but I will keep trying

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Never give up! You'll get it Ian!

[@josephculbertson3555]

Well, you might know I got all excited to try this and the powder coats you use are out of stock at Amazon. Is there any others that will work that you know of. If so please let me know cause I'm biting at the bit to try this...lol. Thanks Bro.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Try Iron Oxide Powder, it's the same thing as powder coat. amzn.to/3vKFf07

[@craftcrazyrpg3867]

Super Video. I spray paint my wood materials, then burn the text or image. The spray paint seals the wood around the cut. Then by rubbing Acrylic paints into the cut groove, rubbing off the excess that does not strain or mark the sealed wood around. Maybe a similar process would work for the wet down white powder. After your color run, seal the wood around, then cut the white with the white. Anyways, thanks for doing all the testing.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

I've used your technique before, works great. I switched to using laser transfer tape since and that works even better.

[@lonniethomas6275]

Really like your video. I am new at this and getting speed and power is confusing for me. I have a 7 watt j tech laser most mounted on an xcarve. What speed and power for mica and the powder coat to state with?

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

I can't answer that Lonnie. You have to run tests.

[@leelsw]

What about putting a sheet of glass over the engraving to stop the fan blowing the powder away? but leave a couple of millimetres between the glass and the workpiece

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Tried the glass flat against, it works!

[@marcoss6212]

Late for the party, but I would use transfer tape for light colors, burn it normally with the tape on then spray a light coat of poly from a can, don't take the tape off and burn fill as you would, transfer tape come off at the very end. Worked for me on a 10W laser, had to try something after watching you :), thank you so much for your time making this video.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Awesome! 👍 Thanks for watching!

[@wizard1963uk]

a great video rich what was the spray you used to wipe over mate

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Just some green cleaner.

[@markwiseman5893]

hey rich just an idea about the diode laser fan blowing the paint away from your project maybe use some masking tape on the front and 2 sides of your laser head formed into an kind of L shape and put halfway down the laser might help a bit. i havant tried it myself yet but have ordered some paint to ty thx grt vid

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

I wound up using a thin pane glass Mark.

[@brianbice1427]

Just watched this for the first time, but just a thought,with a diode laser to stop the paint blowing out could you must it with hair spray

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

Haven't tried that! I got a piece of pane glass from Lowes and it works perfectly.

[@larrystaas1940]

A thought just occurred to me that you might try. Put your powder down and then cover with onion skin paper before your second burn. That should address the air assist issue but I don’t know the effects it would have on the burn.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

I've tried it even with transfer tape over it and as soon as the laser burned through the tape, the light colors blew out Larry.