LR4 Oil Change So Easy A Child Could Do It

[@mluiso23]

Just picked up my LR4 HSE. Traded in my Yukon Denali and I am totally happy. New subscriber. Great video

[@mericamark]

Love it!

[@pwatom22]

I totally agree about the lack of a dipstick. Lr3 HSE was a better vehicle in my opinion. Your prices are a stark reminder of the inflation we've seen.

[@adubbzz7725]

This is amazing!! I have been wanting to do this with mine and knew I could, now I will! I wish I would have seen your videos last year when I bought mine!!!!

[@chrismad1344]

Thank you so much from now not more paying the dealer to replace the oil!!! Subscribed!

[@martingarciajr2497]

Im owner of a 2011 lr4 and have severe sun roof leak. Definitely that video will help. Also the lr4 is currently in the shop because of that gasoline smell and the the pump stopped working.. we are just waiting for the parts to arrive and replace the tank seal and the pump.

[@mericamark]

That's all the inspiration I needed to get going on posting the fuel pump seal video. I'll try to get it done this week! Sunroof video will be coming in the next few weeks as well as were headed up to Oregon this fall

[@paulrobichaux6694]

Great video! Can’t wait to save a bunch of money. All the links were very helpful. Thanks!!

[@vusimuzizondo3623]

Job well done. Must get the manual that you have. Electronic Dipstick can be a disadvantage since you have to wait 10 minutes to check oil level, but hey we have to adapt to new tech. 😁😉👍🏽

[@JDAfrica]

Weirdly - the oil filter on the petrol model (that you have here) is different to the Diesel model. It doesn’t use that oil wrench, rather it uses a 32mm socket nut

[@southernbred601]

Merica, I have a "Service Now" reading on my LR4 after Midas did my oil change but they don't know how to reset it. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks

[@tommydouglas3911]

FYI - There is a way to bypass the 10 minute wait. It’s been a while, but if memory serves, when you get the message that it cannot give a reading yet because you haven’t waited long enough you can hit the cancel button on the steering wheel twice (and/or hold it on the second press) to skip the wait. Worked for me last time I got impatient and looked that up online.

[@mericamark]

Thanks for the info! I'll have to try it out

[@mike91mmm]

Any tips on axle seal driveshaft seals ,4x4- I got multiple leaks . Also topping off the trans fluid and or changing the pan/filter

[@oscarlontoc8284]

The oil gauge showed one half. And you took out 9 liters?

[@dr.coolhvacmaster7313]

Hi.. what side or number is the socket? . How can I order? Thank you

[@iankirk5875]

FYI.. hack alert. You don't have to wait for the engine to cool down. Open driver's door.. open bonnet.. add your oil then get in car (leave driver's door open).. Don't press brake but press ignition button to turn electrics on.. then go to service menu to check oil level.. THEN PRESS 'CAN' ON THE STEERING WHEEL.. ie cancel of cruise control.. AND OPENS UP MECHANICS SERVICE MENU TO ALLOW YOU TO SEE OIL IN LIVE TIME.

[@mericamark]

The Land Rover community thanks you!!

[@fahdmohammed4801]

Many thanks for this important video. I think, if you ad to the title, new LR4 V6 2014 onwards, you would attract mor viewers. Many thanks and good luck

[@mericamark]

Thanks for the tip!

[@tombyorn8278]

Thank you for posting. I am contemplating getting a 2011 LR4 - do you have many issues with yours or do you feel they are reliable. Also, 116 degrees - I would have passed out removing the engine cover.

[@mericamark]

Hahaha the heat definitely takes some warming up to... hahaha but to answer your question, our LR4 is hands down my favorite vehicle I've ever even ridden in let alone owned. The engineering is really top notch and it doesn't skimp on creature comforts eaither. That said, we actually plan to purchase a 2nd LR4 in the future to replace my pathfinder. However, their reliability is a tricky topic. For someone like me, who is capable of working on my own vehicles and stays on top of maintenance, the LR4 is reliable and maintenance is as affordable as about any other similar vehicle. On the other hand, if you're going to be taking it to the shop for repairs, plan to spend more in maintenance than a similar vehicle, because a qualified and knowledgeable rover Mechanic costs more than for normal vehicles. BUT I have heard GREAT things about the reliability of the v6 LR4s. The one thing that the v8s suffer from is a defectively designed timing chain guide rail that wears prematurely. However, for the v8s, if you get a well taken care of LR4 and change oil every 5k miles, I would expect the guide rail to make it to at least 120k miles if not 150k. I plan on changing my guide rail out to the updated design this year though anyways. It's fine now but if the guide rail wears out too much then it can cause catastrophic engine damage, which will set you back $5k. The part itself is relatively cheap, it's just the labor that's a little pricey, but an ounce if prevention is worth a pound of cure. And for me, since I can do it myself, it really is a no brainer to change it out when I know I'll have 2 days to devote to it so that I'm not rushed and stressed and get the piece of mind knowing I did everything perfectly. So in conclusion, if you're on a budget but not shy of wrenching on it and have the time, then snag a good deal on a v8. But if you got the coin, don't hold back; get a fully optioned v6. Whatever you do, if you're gonna wheel it, make sure you at least get the 2 speed transfer case. And if you really have money and/or patience, make sure it's also got diff lockers. Keep in mind, this is coming from a red blooded patriotic through and through America loving dude who still loves the snot out of this snobby British piece of machinery because it's just so dang good, impressive, and over engineered, especially for the price range your looking at when buying one used. I was also uncertain and timid about land rover when we got it but the deal was too good to pass up ($13k @75k miles), and I'm sure happy I didn't buy a stupid unibody jeep commander which is the only "comparable" alternative.

[@tombyorn8278]

@@mericamark Thanks so much for your response. I can do some work myself. I have a lift and a lot of tools so that should be fine. I am starting to realize I am getting up there in years and I would only like to work on a vehicle about 6 times a year. I have a '95 Land Cruiser and a 2006 Lexus LS430 and was thinking to sell them both and just have 1 car for me. I do not drive near as much as I used to especially with everything going on and we would go up to the Bald Eagle State Forest here in PA every now and again. I think you have definitely help make up my mind. Again thank you for post you are a good guy.

[@ballyscanlon]

hi, thanks for the video. i followed it for my oil change. i do have a question for some other engine fluids if you don't mind me asking you. trying to top up the coolant and power steering fluid in my 2011 LR4. manual specifies 'Castrol SF' for coolant w/50% water and 'Texaco Cold Climate PAS fluid' for power steering. i can't find either as a specific product online. ive spent about an hour searching to get an answer but have struck out. any chance you know what i can use? thanks

[@beltken]

Mark, good video. What's the name of the service manual app you have on your phone? Thanks. BTW...I'm up in Anthem and feel your pain (heat)!

[@mericamark]

Thanks! I have the pdf on my laptop actually, it's over 5,000 pages if I remember correctly, but I downloaded it a few years back. I've been trying to find a link to it that I can post but all the links seem to be no longer working. I'll keep looking though. My guess is the links were disabled due to copyright infringement so it may not be possible to get it for free anymore. However, in the meantime I'll post a link to where it can be purchased. In my opinion, It's definitely worth buying if you have to. It has been very helpful to see exactly how Land Rover intended certain things to be done

[@hermanstukes5525]

My LR4 gear shifter is stuck in reverse? Any idea what it could be?

[@charlieodonnell9129]

Why is it that the LR4 v6 needs to be at full mark where the v8 with 9 litres is at half thank you

[@erinmugan-fortuni9208]

I have a 2016 LR4 HSE 65k miles. I was going to use 5W-30. Any reason you used 20? Thanks

[@mericamark]

The main reason is simply just because that's what the service manual calls for. But if you live in an abnormally hot area 5w - 30 should be okay. With that said, I'm in Phoenix Arizona where we had 50 days in a row over a 105 degrees this year and 5w - 20 seems to be working just fine.

[@pilotgabe]

I noticed that the manual calls for a specific oil spec, and recommends the Castrol Edge Professional OE, though any oil that meets the spec is okay. The version of Castrol Edge you used that same spec, or ?? Is the dye the only difference? Is the oil you used able to go 15K mi or 1 year between oil changes (not that I would do that haha)? Thanks!

[@mericamark]

I certainly can't see any oil making it 15k mi haha but regardless, I still don't trust an oil for more than 5k miles. Look into the 3.6l cadillac motors that kept blowing up. Eventually GM said that their instructions for oil changes every 10k mi with mobil 1 syn was what caused the problem and that the oil actually needs to be changed every 5k. Anyways, as for land rover products, yeah the dye is the only difference. All the research i've seen shows that the oil i used and the oil from the dealership are identical, other than one being dyed and being sold for $100 more.

[@amosdunham2511]

There is more to the process when checking the oil level. Per manual. You must run vehicle to full temp and then let the vehicle sit for 10 mins for oil to settle. If you dont wait proper time it will say oil level unavailable. Great video though

[@metromotel]

i found out that it has to be at least 30 mins to get 'real' reading

[@noahhasse4817]

Very helpful! Why would you fill the oil up to only the halfway instead of to the max line?

[@mericamark]

I prefer to fill to the max so there's a little extra in case you ever start leaking while driving. However, what I meant to say is that you want to aim to fill up to the middle of the oil level indicator to avoid overfilling because the electronic dipstick makes it hard to be accurate. Then you can add a little bit after you get it to the middle. But either way, as long as you're in between the low and the high on the oil level indicator, then you know you have a sufficient amount of oil.

[@biz4twobiz463]

YES, always fill the oil level to the MAX line.

[@renekoesler4704]

Why would you not want to fill the oil level to "FULL"?

[@mericamark]

While full is ideal, you want to be careful not to overfill it. Overfill can cause foaming which prevents the oil from circulating. Because the digital dip stick can be difficult to know exactly how full you are, it's not a bad idea to shoot for the middle range because then it's definitely not over or under filled

[@andyguildford]

Not sure why you wouldn’t go to the “full” level?

[@mericamark]

No reason not to. However being in the middle is sufficient and the digital gauge appears to report only in increments of 25%. Therefore, it's easy to overfill by trying to get to the full level, which then means sucking oil back out and waiting to check the level again. Plus, being overfilled is worse because it can allow the bottom of the connecting rods to slap the oil and aerate it (make it foamy) which prevents it from getting picked up and circulated by the oil pump, causing oil starvation ironically enough. So I try to shoot for 75% full so I know it's sufficiently filled but not overfilled since the gauge is not completely accurate.

[@sherwyn1100]

I have a small leak code keep coming up i change the gas cap and code still coming up need to see how to change the purge valve

[@fahdmohammed4801]

Many thanks, I would like to change the fluid of the differentials, But, I do not know if my LR4 V6 2015, has a non-electronic (locking) rear differentials, or electronic (locking) rear differential. Also, when sould I change it, every 80000 Mi or 140000 Mi. All the best

[@mericamark]

If the locking diffs are factory, then they're electronic. I'll check the factory service manual and see what it suggests. Changing the diff fluid should be easy and relatively inexpensive though so I would opt for more frequently rather than less though. We just surpassed 100k mi on our Rover so I might make a video pretty soon here detailing how it's done. My diffs aren't locking though

[@1chasehayez]

Liters or quarts?

[@rittonhlt2924]

Il faut appuyer deux fois sur flèche du bas du régulateur de vitesse niveau immédiat

[@paulwatson255]

What r u doing changing yr oil or laying tile with a levell lmao y u don't change the oil in yr glasses the oil look dark in the lens lol

[@yegorkin7]

my LR4 V6 diesel looks completely different under the hood. it’s not V8 though and i doubt i could do this oil change

[@mericamark]

How do you like that motor?

[@charlieodonnell9129]

You might have to change the oil sensor not a good job to do 😢😢