Make Your Own Linen Canvases: Oil Painting Pro Tips (Part 3 of 3) with Anna Rose Bain

Oil Painting Surfaces Pro Tips, Part 3: How to Make a Linen Canvas Using Raw Linen. In this video Anna Rose Bain shows you three different ways to stretch, size, and prime your own linen canvases for oil painting.
Disclaimer: I'm showing you the methods I learned from my classically trained college professors and several other artists I studied with over the years. I don't claim to have the perfect process or solutions here, so I highly recommend you continue to do some research for yourself to find out the best ways to prepare canvases. I've discovered that there is a lot of disagreement about what is the "best" method to make archival painting surfaces. If you disagree with my process, please keep your comments respectful. Thank you in advance!
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Here are the materials mentioned in this video:
Linen, Panel, and Stretcher bars:
Portrait Grade Raw Linen (66J): bit.ly/3CePRa0
Medium Weave Raw Linen Roll: bit.ly/3ChZV1W
Pre-primed Claessens 13 Linen Roll: bit.ly/2Sbjgjl
Unprimed Hardboard Panels: bit.ly/3lxk26f
Heavy Duty Stretcher Bars: bit.ly/3ltqtHJ
Sizing:
Golden GAC400 (For tightening fibers): bit.ly/3xtgFQ5
Golden GAC100 (Acrylic Polymer): bit.ly/3gFLlc1
Rabbit Skin Glue: bit.ly/3gPJ5hg
Priming:
Lead Primer: bit.ly/3gJ6h0p
Oil Primer: bit.ly/3cT7Esm
Other:
Chip brushes: bit.ly/3Ad2UHo
Easy Tacker Stapler: bit.ly/3jlk4M6
Straight Edge: bit.ly/3CeRch2
Measuring Square: amzn.to/2WPkRgt
Rubber Mallet: amzn.to/3CqBLTc
Gamsol: bit.ly/3hMzNCP
Art Before Dishes T-Shirt: etsy.me/3fcoovL
Please note, some of these links are affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. This allows me to continue creating helpful and entertaining free content! I only recommend products that I use and love.
0:00 Introduction, linen and stretcher bars you'll need
4:29 Additional materials
5:12 Stretching and sizing with rabbit skin glue
29:30 Sizing with GAC400 and GAC100
32:34 Priming

[@velvetbees]

It is so nice to find an artist who understands the importance of using archival materials. I like your method for preparing canvases.

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Thank you very much!

[@lynnephelps2370]

This is the best, most comprehensive overview of all the foundational "before you start" info that nobody else covers. Thank you for taking the time to make it thorough and comprehensible. I'm just beginning and especially appreciated second episode on budget options!

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Thank you so much!

[@sandrapowers6099]

These 1-3 tutorials ,on prepping a canvas or a panel for painting, have been the best I have ever watched. Your instructions were very clear. as to what has to be done in preparation for painting our “masterpiece “. Thank you so much for sharing your expert knowledge.These will be so helpful.

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Thank you so much! I'm glad you've enjoyed them!

[@ElleWhyBee]

I initially thought you were Emily Olson and got confused because she does watercolor. 😅 Thanks for the tutorial! I think I'll try the GAC method.

[@isaiahjohnsfineart]

That drum sound ❤. There really is nothing like painting on a surface prepared by yourself!

[@davidc1878]

This 'Oil Painting Pro Tips' series of videos is excellent and so helpful... thanks!

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Glad it was helpful!

[@patriciaelle6304]

So generous of you to share your knowledge and skill. Thank you!

[@ChristinaTodd1970]

Excellent! Thank you.

[@saltlifegull4091]

Outstanding--you go girl!

[@jeanbyrd7444]

ABSOLUTELY excellent video, thanks!!

[@samahdi6972]

Very Helpful, Thank You.

[@bufboston1]

This is such a great video.

[@abyhamouda3813]

Thanks for this video it covers everything

[@PaigeGallery]

Best art instructional video ever! I really liked that you gave a visual of all the supplies needed and an itemized list. I find the video very engaging with it’s clear instructions. I also appreciated the advice given with your personal learning experiences in order to prevent making similar mistakes. The video is detailed, very organized and flows freely without unnecessary talking. I never had to scrub forward or lost interest. Most of all, your demonstrations of each and every step~from preparing the rabbit glue, stretching bars, and applications was especially helpful. Many thanks! Subscribed!!!

[@AnnaRoseBain]

This makes me so happy! Thank you, Paige! I hope you LOVE your custom canvases!

[@ChristopherJones-cjphoto]

Very thorough video packed with very important information!

[@sketchartist1964]

Thanks for the demo, it was very very helpful! 👍👍

[@aobarts]

Amazing content! Thank you very much!

[@annesaffer629]

Thanks! Well done, lots of good info!

[@margarethodgson3855]

This is a wonderful tutorial and brough back many memories of my art school days back in the late fifties. Your clear method of presentation is a pleasure to witness.

[@michelleannette7994]

Wow, learned so much. Thank you for going through these processes!

[@Shuvah2Him]

Thank you so much!! this is awesome!

[@AnnaRoseBain]

You are very welcome!

[@nean12350]

excellent demo. I have become quite lazy about stretching my own canvas. You have inspired me to make my own again. Thank you!

[@lesliemctavish4300]

Thankyou for your video which does it right. I'm not a painter, yet I want to make sure that my art on canvas has the right foundation.

[@trentriver]

Excellent video - so well done ... thanks.

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@OlgaLubbersArt]

Thank you for your work, great information, exactly what I wanted to know to start doing my own canvases!

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Thank you! I'm glad you found it helpful.

[@alionaprice1603]

Thank you! this is exactly what i was looking for! and I can relate to the same experience at Texas outdoor art show, though all my canvases were store bought acrylic primed stretched canvases I had the same experience of warping wood and wrinkled canvas

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Glad you found it helpful!

[@twicebittenthasme5545]

I'm late to this party but I am definitely glad I got here. I've been scratching my head for some time trying to accomplish what you've shown. Very informative! Thank you for sharing this!!!

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Aww I’m so glad you found this helpful! Please let me know if you have any questions!

[@dw1028000]

I tried following this technique with a roll of linen, RSG and titanium white oil ground. Really amazed at the quality of canvas I can produce. Better than any I've bought! Maybe a slight learning curve at first but it's relatively easy to get the hang of and the number one thing I learned is if you want a really tight canvas, do stretch it tightly and definitely use two coats of RSG. Also, sand it well before applying the ground as any little imperfections are magnified once you get the. ground smoothed in. I'll try GAC acrylic next time!

[@AnnaRoseBain]

I'm so happy to hear this! Yes, there's nothing quite like it! :-)

[@AnOceanView]

Thank you so much for taking your time to make these videos. They have helped me understand the process better. I have always wondered which MDF panels to use and how to stretch large canvases. You have solved the mystery! I have read the book Alla Prima ll:Companion book by Richard Schmid and Katie Swatland. It is a wonderful book but watching you make your canvases made it very clear. Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!!

[@AnnaRoseBain]

This makes me happy! Thank you for the feedback and I'm so glad you found my videos helpful!

[@davidbrieske6148]

Excellent job, Anna! Your process is just how I've been doing it for about 30 years. One thing I'd like to add about applying the glue to canvas is that if you go over it with a palette knife, it pushes the glue into the weave of the canvas and prevents pin holes where oil can seep through. I also go around the sides and edges with my finger to make sure it is all sealed. Also, the first coat of glue can be sanded to remove the fuzz so it's not a problem later.

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Hi David, this is very true! In the past, I've also used a sponge to apply the glue. And yes, I always sand the first coat. :-) Thanks for sharing your insights!

[@Paul-su3qh]

Hi Anna, this is the first time I have seen your video. This tutorial on sizing canvas and other materials is An extremely insightful tutorial on a very time consuming, but effective process. It is something that I was unaware of until I found your tutorial. As one who has mainly painted for the love of paint, and therefore not painting professionally, I have found your video to be clear and easy to follow educationally about this process. You are clearly a wonderful teacher, whose instructions and demos are truly in depth and precise in detail. Thank you so much for sharing this process with me.

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Thank you so much for your kind comment about this tutorial. I'm so glad it was helpful!

[@Joel-ml5bg]

Awesome tutorial. Thank you very much! That's a serious amount of work and that oil prime is nasty stuff.

[@AnnaRoseBain]

thanks! Yes, it's a lot of work but worth it!

[@LyubomirIko]

Probably the best tutorial on youtube. Too bad in my country nowbody sell either the synthetic sizing or the oil primer in big buckets.

[@a-72-mestrysumitsubhash31]

Omg you also have KZbin♥️♥️♥️♥️

[@DannySabraArt]

Wow.. Thank you for the detailed and informative tutorial. this is something I'm going to revisit several times as I'm just getting into making my own surfaces. Thanks so much!

[@AnnaRoseBain]

You are so welcome. Thanks for watching!

[@rudolfo9361]

Great tutorial Anna, however I will buy my canvases ready made for now as I have problems with arthritis in my hands (...needs a bit of muscle :). But thank you for the video.

[@tarquinmidwinter2056]

Thank you for this video. I have just made my own canvases for the first time using raw linen and RSG. I found that the smaller ones (30cm x 40cm) needed more RSG and were harder to get perfectly flat. The bigger ones (40cm x 50cm or bigger) are great. Perhaps the answer for me is to use the linen on boards for smaller pieces, where weight isn't an issue. Or perhaps the smaller ones just need stretching tighter?

[@MysteriousDibalo]

can we take a moment to appreciate her upper body muscles

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Haha! Thanks!

[@murkyseb]

That was really interesting, I’m at that stage where I want to use better canvases but linen ones are really expensive. I’m gonna try make my own like this but without the lead as it’s not available in my country. Awesome video

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Hi! Oil primer is almost as nice as lead; sometimes I like it better! :-)

[@murkyseb]

@@AnnaRoseBain that’s great to know, thanks very much :)

[@murkyseb]

@@AnnaRoseBain do you know how hemp canvas compares to linen canvas? As far as I’ve been able to learn hemp was what all canvas were made from for hundreds of years even the name canvas being related to the word cannabis but it seems to be very uncommon for people to use it I was wondering if you knew why? It seems pretty cheap to make and strong but maybe there’s something else about it that makes it inferior to linen

[@AnnaRoseBain]

@@murkyseb I've never worked with hemp canvas. If you decide to try it, let me know what you think!

[@murkyseb]

@@AnnaRoseBain okay will do!

[@ClarkeMunford]

These videos are super informative and I really appreciate you sharing them! My main question as I consider moving away from commercial canvases and stretching my own is: Why do you prefer starting with raw linen and putting in so much work to prepare it, rather than stretching an oil-primed linen like the Claessens 13? I can appreciate the drum-tight feel element, but on top of all the effort it takes, I’ve never been able to prepare a surface as smooth and uniform as a nice commercially primed stretched canvas (cotton or linen), no matter how carefully I apply primer/gesso with sanding. Sorry for the long question, but is starting with raw linen more cost-effective, even given the time it takes? Is the final surface that much more receptive to the oil paint than a pre-primed linen? Thank you again, and keep up the great work!

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Hi Clarke, thanks for your comment! I have a number of reasons for making my own. First, it IS definitely cheaper than buying the commercially prepared linen. Second, yes, you can get it a lot tighter than stretching pre-primed linen. Third, I actually like having some natural variation and texture in my canvas, which I can only get when I apply the primer myself. Fourth, no matter how much you try to replicate a commercially primed canvas, it's not going to be the same and I actually think that's a GOOD thing. I just like my own canvases better. :-) :-)

[@ClarkeMunford]

@@AnnaRoseBain This is all SO helpful and I cannot thank you enough for your thoughtful, thorough explanation! There’s a mountain of info to absorb when it comes to painting surfaces, and you have done a wonderful job of sharing your valuable experience. MUCH appreciated, Anna!!

[@JonBradhamArtist]

Wonderful, informative video! A question- do you apply size to the backside of the linen as well? Seems like you’d want to to protect it. Thanks!

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Great question! I typically don’t apply it to the back but you certainly can.

[@weizhang4731]

Hi Anna, thank you for this series of painting surfaces videos! I would like to ask - if I get wood panels, and after sizing with GAC 100, can it be used directly (as in this video canvas#2)? Or does it still need another layer of gesso or oil based primer before applying oil paints? Thank you!

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Thanks for your comment! Yes, you can skip the primer if you’re using GAC 100, just make sure you have a minimum of two coats. 🙂

[@franceslazu1784]

Awesome job!! I have a question regarding using oil base primer or gesso. I heard people saying that it is bad because the painting can cracks. Is that what you used? Sorry for my ignorance, I’m a total beginner. Thanks in advance

[@user-cz9ol2pq8q]

great video really good information , thank you. can I use gesso to prime the canvases for acrylic paint?

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Thank you! Gesso is not as advisable to use directly on linen because it could lead to cracking. Try the acrylic polymer first and then you could coat with gesso afterwards.

[@michaeljamesannis1751]

A brayer between the 1st and 2nd coat helps a lot

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Interesting. How so?

[@annsalty5615]

Good video. Couple things is that glueing pre primed canvas onto panels is not a good idea even though I know is popular. The reason is the glue will get thru the holes (many pre primed canvases have tiny holes) and the glue gets onto the painting surface. So, in time, the paint will start to fragment because you end up painting on glue instead of a primer, without knowing it. I have experienced this, unfortunately. Then secondly, they now no longer recommend using GAC 100 as a size for oils. I saw this recently in a video put out by Golden. I believe sticking with raw linen, stretched, followed by rsg, then primed is a good proven method.

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Thanks for the comments! Yes, it’s true that some commercially prepared canvas rolls are so thin that the glue can get through; a simple solution to this would be to apply another coat of primer before painting on it. And I wasn’t aware of the new recommendations about GAC100. I’ll check that out!

[@annsalty5615]

@@AnnaRoseBain yes, it could be a solution. I think a better solution is to glue raw linen onto a panel, size it, then apply the ground layers. I have used rsg as my glue and worked very well. But now sticking with stretched canvas. Too many variables on panels. Thank you

[@ArtbyPatrickPetruccello]

@@annsalty5615 and I go the opposite way now. I find there are too many variables with stretched linen than on panel. Expansion and contraction being the main one as over time oil paint becomes less and less flexable and of course much easier to damage a stretched canvas. agree RSG followed by a goof priming is terrfic. I have been using Rublev products for my priming.

[@annsalty5615]

@@ArtbyPatrickPetruccello The other option is to paint on canvas taped to a board, then afterwards mount with a panel ....glued or not glued depending on frame. The whole mixing glue into the mix before painting is problematic in my experience where canvas has already been primed.

[@ArtbyPatrickPetruccello]

@@annsalty5615 thanks - to be clear you do not find issue with using glue prior to priming. Yes I do paint on canvas then attach to a board when finished from time to time if a study I am working in ends up being more of a finished painting.

[@sandrapowers6099]

When gluing oil primed linen to panels what kind of glue to use? Rabbit skin glue? Then do I need to do anything else? Are panels now ready to oil paint on?

[@GinaKwon-qp6bp]

thanks for such a wonderful video! What grit sandpaper do you recommend using?

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Hi! 100 grit (medium) works well, but depending on the courseness of your linen, you might need a finer grit, like 150.

[@sandrapowers6099]

It’s me again… I saw where you can put a layer of Gamblin’s Oil painting Ground on top of linen glued to panel . Is this what you recommend? What do you do? Is this the last step? Thanks, I will look for your reply…

[@lunadargent5292]

This was an excellent video. Ive thought about your instructions and Ive come back to ask you a question 😃. If I wanted to use the GAC process but on MDF board would I paint the MDF board with GAC400 first like you did with the RSG and then put the linen on let it dry and then do the two coats of GAC 100? And if I put the GAC 400 on the MDF board first would I also do a coat of it on top of the linen once I put the linen on the board? Thank you 👍🏻👏🏻😃

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Thanks for watching! I have honestly not tried applying linen to a board using the acrylic polymers. RSG serves as a much more “sticky” size (glue), but you could just try the GAC100 and see how it goes! I don’t think you would need to use the GAC 400 for this simply because it’s being mounted to a rigid surface and its only purpose is to stiffen the linen which wouldn’t be necessary if you are mounting went linen to a board. Try a tiny sized panel first and see how it goes.

[@lunadargent5292]

Thank you Anna for replying I’ll give it a try and see I’ve never painted on the linen surface and I’ve been dying to try it out. I’ll let you know LOL

[@peaceforchildren4303]

Really great video! Thank you!. I love the clear canvas that allows the colour of the natural linen to show through. Does linen have to be stretched first in order to use gac 100, 400 or RSG? Could I add a clear primer over the gac 100 ? Also Im wondering about the linen sized in RSG, is it possible to use a clear Acrylic primer over it, or must the primer always be oil or lead over RSG ? I would really appreciate your advice so much. I find it all really daunting and confusing to get it right. Thankyou

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Hi! Yes, linen should be stretched first before using the acrylic or RSG sizes, simply because the size is going to stretch it even more and without some kind of support, the linen would wrinkle when it dries. A clear primer over GAC100 is just fine, as any kind of acrylic primer works over that. However, you shouldn't use acrylic primer over RSG, only oil or lead.

[@dawnrunner121]

Great video, Anna, very helpful. I am new to oil painting and love extra-fine linen on panel. When I try to make my own, I seal the wood first w/ 2 coats GAC 100 on all sides, then after leaving it for a day (enough time?) I applied soft gel acrylic medium to stick the linen to the sealed wood (Dick Blick advice), then added another soft gel coat to linen the next day and let that dry. It looks great until I add oil primer. I struggle to get it even and it's not going well. I know I have to practice but wonder do I have to put primer on the linen to oil paint on it or might the soft gel adhesive second coat protect the linen from oil paint? Thanks!

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Thanks for your comment, Elizabeth! I would think that the acrylic medium would be fine to paint on especially if you've already sealed the wood with a few coats of GAC100.

[@dawnrunner121]

@@AnnaRoseBain Thank you so much, Anna!

[@comunidadbitcoin2050]

Great video tutorial just that (as you said) RSG its not recomended for stretched canvas. Not flexible enough. Its ok on rigid supports. For stretched linen a good recomendation now its a minimun of 3 or 4 layers of good acrilyc primer without sizing (from the people at golden, changing their older recomendation of using gac 100.

[@SixtoLuna_art]

Thanks for sharing. Question, which method allows for easy removal and rolling of final painting in a tube for shipping/traveling? Is the RSG sized canvas with lead oil ground flexible enough to allow rolling of the painting after completion? Or will that only be possible with the acrylic primer? Also, can you size a linen onto a rigid support like a panel without it having it stick to the panel? For the same reasons mentioned above. Thanks!

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Hi Alex, rsg sized, oil-primed and/or lead-primed linen canvases should all be flexible enough to roll up after completion, as long as the layers were applied thinly enough and given proper time to cure. However, in my experience, it doesn’t matter which method you use to prep a canvas - it could be commercially made or homemade - if you take a canvas off stretcher bars and roll it up in a tube, there will always be some damage to the corners where it was attached to the stretcher bars. So keep that in mind. As far as your second question, I’ve not tried to remove sized linen from a rigid supper but I’m guessing if you did that, you’d have to apply heat to the size, which would compromise its chemical integrity. So I wouldn’t recommend doing that.

[@lukejoshu8288]

Thank you so much for this video! I just bought my first roll and remembered this video from when it first came out for tips on building my canvases. I do have one question. I bought a roll of oil primed canvas. Is there anything you would recommend to tighten it like you did with the RSG or with an oil primed surface, do you just need to make sure its tight when you're stretching it on the stretcher bars?

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Hi Luke, preprimed linen is awesome! I recommend getting a really good quality canvas pliers. That makes all the difference in the world. No need to brush anything on the canvas; just make it as tight as you can, and if there’s still some slack, you can always remove some the staples later and re-tighten it one side at a time. Corner keys are also nice to have on hand for this.

[@lukejoshu8288]

@@AnnaRoseBain I just finished stretching my first canvas and it turned out great, thanks so much for helping!

[@dawnrunner121]

Revisiting this video helps so much, Anna! So, to size hardboard, I assume GAC 100 OK if I don't want to use RSG. Can you stick the linen on right away onto wet board, and then add more GAC 100 on top right away? I wondered if I should stick the linen on, let dry, and add more GAC 100 the next day.

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Yes, absolutely. Use GAC 100 to size your panel, and yes, you can stick the linen on right away while it's still wet, then add your first coat of GAC 100 over the top of the linen.

[@dawnrunner121]

@@AnnaRoseBain Thank you, Anna.

[@Trentwila1]

Hi, would the GAC technique work on raw linen canvas?

[@marylouniebrugge9174]

How did you apply the linen to the back of the panel? glued?

[@andrewkostelnyk272]

Hi Anna -i enjoyed your video -but you didn t mention the corner wedges that need to go in the stretcher bars to add tension for slack canvases-Ok -the smaller ones you could get away with!

[@AnnaRoseBain]

That's true. I don't need corner wedges every time though... just for paintings I've stretched using pre-primed linen. If I'm sizing the canvas myself I never need corner wedges because they get plenty tight.

[@kapenajoe6887]

Hi Anna is it advisable to apply rabbit skin glue on a large linen canvas for acrylic paintings and than add gesso onto the linen canvas after the glue has been added for acrylic painting? regards Joe

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Hi there! RSG should only be used with an oil or lead ground on top of it. If you plan to make an acrylic painting then you should use an acrylic polymer or primer (like GAC 100 or gesso).

[@stojanovich]

Hey, fellow painter here. Was wondering why ur sizing also the sides of your paintings, is there a specific reason? Do you paint also on the sides? Wondering because I’ve been using rabbit skin glue and preparing my canvases for years and never did that, and never had any problems whatsoever. Cheers 🍻

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Hi! I size and prime the sides because if they get oil paint on them, they are just as prone to rot as any other part of the canvas. I don't know about you, but I'm seldom able to do a painting without getting oil paint on the sides, at least a little bit!

[@kimberlyrivard6945]

Notice you didn’t use canvas pliers for initial stretch

[@marijolopes]

Hi Anna, thank you for your video. Just want to ask you if I want to paint directly on the raw linen, should I protect it with gel medium? since it's transparent after drying. Thank you!

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Yes, you should always protect it with something; you can do one coat of Golden GAC400 (to stiffen the fibers) followed by two coats of GAC100 (to protect the linen from the oil in your paint) and that should do the trick.

[@marijolopes]

@@AnnaRoseBain Well, I live in Portugal, so Golden is not an option :( What kind of products are those to see if I can find something familiar ?

[@AnnaRoseBain]

@@marijolopes they are acrylic polymers.

[@marijolopes]

@@AnnaRoseBain Thank you!

[@kiritsi100]

Recently called Golden to ask about GAC100 to size canvas with. Their latest findings are GAC100 is not recommended for sizing before oil painting. They say that acrylic gesso/primer is best. But you need to use 3 coats or more to keep the oil from seeping through the canvas. I was pretty shocked about this but it is something that they recently discovered from a conservator. Can't remember the reasons but you all can call them yourselves and find out.

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Interesting! So what did they recommend for sizing instead? Because acrylic gesso isn't going to tighten the canvas.

[@kiritsi100]

@@AnnaRoseBain Hi Anna, yes, it is interesting. Always thought GAC100 was the way to go. He said just the acrylic gesso. But I'd give them a call and make sure just in case I'm not remembering correctly. I told him some canvases I prepared 20 years ago with 2 layers of acrylic gesso were leaching oil through the back and that's why I thought I need to size it with a better barrier. He said I didn't put enough gesso layers on. And probably didn't use good quality stuff. Should be at least 3 and maybe a bit thicker to really seal it. I don't worry about the canvas tightening since I prep my canvas clamped or taped to a board and paint that way. After the painting is dry enough, and I like it or have a buyer, I'll then either stretch it on bars or glue it to panel. I find it easier to store the paintings that way, sort of like sheets of paper.

[@RejectedZombie]

28:50 Would you sand if you were using PVA size insead of rabbit skin glue?

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Yes, absolutely. :-)

[@sara-tm7of]

Can I use the same technic without stretching the fabric to create a canvas roll, thank you so much 💜

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Hi Sara, I don’t recommend that unless you plan to stretch large pieces of fabric with this technique and then remove them from the stretchers to roll up once they’re dry.

[@sara-tm7of]

@@AnnaRoseBain That’s amazing!! i am so much grateful for you Anna 🤍🤍

[@SixtoLuna_art]

So, I stretched a raw linen over an MDF panel and stapled it very tightly, I then applied the GAC 400 over the entire front and sides, left it to try but for some reason it lifted in several areas like air bubbles. What did I do wrong?

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Sorry to hear that! Was your MDF prepared properly? By that I mean, did you sand it, and size the board before applying the linen? In order for it to stick, both the board and the linen have to be sized.

[@SixtoLuna_art]

@@AnnaRoseBain Sorry I wasn't clear, I wasn't intending to mount the linen to the MDF panel permanently, I just wanted to stretch it over the MDF panel temporarily so I can apply the GAC 400 and GAC 100 (since I didn't have stretcher bars). I was planning on removing it from the MDF once the painting is complete to roll up for shipping. I stretched it very tightly prior to applying the GAC 400 and allowed it it to dry 24 hours, was about to apply the GAC 100 when noticed some areas looked uneven. Thought it would just stiffen the linen not create so many deformations. Perhaps your method only works on stretcher bars when applying the GAC 400? I'm going to remove it from the MDF and try to get some stretcher bars made so I can stretch it again over the bars, apply some water to the back and hopefully it'll tighten back up again so I can continue applying the GAC 100. Thanks again for taking the time to answer.

[@user-qm4cm6wv1w]

Can I sizing on the canvas with only Gac100?

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Yes you can!

[@marylouniebrugge9174]

If paste- what kind of solvent to mix and what ratio?

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Sorry for my delayed response! If using the paste, mix the solvent until it becomes a "sour cream" consistency. The ratio may vary; I just go by feel.

[@coleleyva3540]

Is this process necessary for painting acrylic on linen?

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Hi Cole, no it is not. You can simply use an acrylic polymer or gesso, but typically it's not recommended that you paint with acrylics on linen unless that linen is mounted to a panel or other rigid surface.

[@mbhart]

Nice job, but it does seem like a lot of work. Especially in the panels, Have you compared the cost to premade ones? Thanks!!

[@jeanguy3572]

IKR frikin $300 for pre made. But then there’s no way imma do all this lol

[@AnnaRoseBain]

I compare cost in these videos. Yes, making your own is substantially cheaper.

[@dawnrunner121]

Anna, I would like to ask if you suggest wearing gloves if you are painting on dried lead ground. I find that I really dislike wearing gloves and would therefore probably stay with oil-primed non-lead surfaces if safer. I love the lead ground's qualities though. Tell me please do you think it's safe to not wear gloves while drawing and then painting on a lead ground surface if you always wash after? Thank you!

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Hi Elizabeth, it's perfectly safe to draw and paint on without gloves! The only time I'd be concerned is if it wasn't fully cured yet and still tacky, in which case you wouldn't want to work on it then anyway. If the edges of the canvas happen to flake off in places or cause any dust, then definitely wash your hands. Otherwise, happy painting!

[@dawnrunner121]

@@AnnaRoseBain Thank you so much! I have purchased some ACM lead primed linen panels and will relax about it now.

[@MondoRockable]

RSG is extremely acidic and will deteriorate your canvas in the long run. Have you ever tried PVA as an alternative for sizing?

[@MarionJInce]

Why don’t you use lead oil ground on panel?

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Hi Marion, I never said I didn't! Sometimes I do. I just didn't demo that in this video. :-)

[@jamiegossett]

what does rabbit skih glue smell like? I read somewhere that is smells really bad,

[@rduff1999]

Larry, I have no experience with rabbit skin glue but in high school during the 50/60s we used a glue (cow or horse hide) that smelled really terrible. However, the reasons might not have been the glue itself but the process as it would be kept heated all day for the different classes. Pax

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Hi Larry, rabbit skin glue doesn't smell bad. It smells a bit like hay, or a a country barn. Hard to explain but that's what it reminds me of.

[@morsar2009]

Pls add Turkish subtitles 👏💐

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Wish I knew how to do that! 🤷‍♀️

[@kevinbwillson4161]

Sandpaper fine? 100-200-400-600?

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Hi! 100 grit (medium) works well, but depending on the courseness of your linen, you might need a finer grit, like 150.

[@chrisgriffith1573]

Um, no. Traditionally, or at least in the middle ages, panels were used for all works of art below a certain size, and anything above a certain size was converted into a canvas work, as the weight of a bigger panels was prohibitive. All of the old masters painted on panel. Panels have always been a better more stabile ground to paint upon, and when the impressionist movement finally rolled around, the advantages of panels were made perfect sense outdoors, where wind could kite your canvas painting away, while the panel remained stable. Panels are just as susceptible to the humidity if not more so than canvases, as they are more wood than a stretcher frame. This is why you should always seal your wood products with a lacquer, urethane or varnish that will keep it safe from humidity. I find it embarrassing that so many artists know nothing about the nature of their own craft. I blame mass production. I live in Georgia atm, where it is REALLY humid. All my panels are made outside under my carport, where all the wood I use is stored, I mill the wood, make cradles for my panels, seal it using woodglue, then stretch canvas over it, seal that with woodglue, then primer over that with a PVA gesso, and urethane the backs... all outdoors. No warping. Bring them inside to acclimate for two weeks then they are ready for painting on. If your frame warped, it got rained on directly and got wet. GAC is an acrylic. Acrylics are not as stable, acrylics will keep shrinking over a period of decades, and once your oil painting is mostly dry and cured, the linseed oil cannot flex any longer, this means the GAC will begin to deform under the oil, and delamination begins. Today's best options are PVA glues, which are dimensionally stable over longer period of time, unlike the RSG or GAC. FYI- if you want your painting to be able for an archivist to remove and replace a canvas or backing, you'd better use more than two coats of RSG to insure that the barrier is thick enough to pull away from the canvas once they heat it up past 130F... because if it's not- then some of the painting goes with it.

[@AnnaRoseBain]

Thanks for your comment, Chris. Perhaps you could make your own video explaining your process? Where did you learn to make your panels? Just curious.

[@chrisgriffith1573]

​@@AnnaRoseBain I have been studying art history for almost 25 years going now, (not including the college classes I almost failed.. LOL) and my panels have always been self made- my entire family are engineers, so there is no shortage of building skills. Having a full wood working shop all my life, it was not like I was "learning" to make them... for me, it was more like "this is how you do it" than anything else. I began making panels in college when one of my teachers showed us how he made his panels by simply gluing canvas to a piece of plywood using gesso. I later learned about RSG, but it was so impractical at the time, (being a college student) my sister in law suggested woodglue as the closest relative to RSG. Woodglue is a PVA product. As luck would have it, this is not such a bad way to secure wood or canvas, but I would not use it to size a stretched canvas. While PVA is strong, it is somewhat inflexible. You need a firm ground like plywood as a backing. When I began doing this in 1988, I did not think I would be doing it nearly identically 33 years later. The only changes I have made is in the ground above the woodglue, I make it using gypsum, plaster, pumice and White PVA mixed with woodglue. The mixture makes a thick gesso like substance which can be sanded to a glass-like finish, has excellent adherence properties, and dries in about one day. I put three to four coats on each panel. The finished panels are like nothing I have ever found in a store. Oil spreads easily overtop, and does not "sink in" like with acrylic products, leaving one to oil in several times before a third layer does down. I am thinking about making a video... but it is very involved when you consider all the aspects to an archival process... from the glues down to the types of wood, how it is treated or not treated... the woodworking alone is a whole video by itself, the glue and sealing of the panel another, the gesso... ugh. I am an artist, not a youtuber, so it's not that high on my list of things to do...

[@tba1879]

You don't want to be using rabbit skin glue--conservators hate it because (aside from the very cogent ethical considerations) it's hydroscopic and very prone to cracking. Best to use updated materials.

[@dd61125]

my little cousin abe passd away after he drink the lead ground when we were kids in my gramps studio

[@robertkat]

Cheaper to buy them.

[@trentriver]

Meant to add - you might want to get some knee pads - while you are young now and likely not feeling it, by the time you get to my age, you will ... preserve those knees!

[@AnnaRoseBain]

For real! Actually, my studio is currently being finished, and I plan to use a large work table instead of the floor. 😀

[@douglasacosta4989]

Schlimm, wie die junge Damen heran geht, alles fertige Materialien, und anfangs ein *Keilrahmen* tackern, ist ein grober Fehler, dann ist die evtl. Nutzung von Keilen sinnlos..... Auch die Faltung des Maltuches eine Katastrophe...... Wenig Sinn,, bedauere sehr die Anfänger, wenn sie sich daran orientieren wollen..... Aber, man kann auch aus Fehlern lernen....

[@LyubomirIko]

Probably the best tutorial on youtube. Too bad in my country nowbody sell either the synthetic sizing or the oil primer in big buckets.