Making Big Prints With The Longer LK5 Pro Printer

[@eduardobarros6562]

I have a few suspicions about the weird layers at the beginning. 1, it can be that the bed is too hot for your filament, PLA should never have a bed hotter than 70 celsius, 2 it can be squishing the filament too much, and since you mentioned your bed is warped, it might be this. You should never level it with too much of a tolerance, always give it 0.005 to 0.015 mms more than you need, and since it looks like you have the sticky ultrabed, you wont worry about it not sticking if you have a nice surface for the first layer and an adequate temperature. And finally 3, your nozzle can be too hot at the beginning. Some softwares do give you the option to heat it more at the beginning, Cura does it, and if it heats up too much, the filament becomes completely liquid, like casting resin. You never want your filament to be liquid, you want it to not be frozen, nor liquid like water. Especially PLA, you want it to be very maleable but never able to drip like a non viscous liquid. And those horizontal stripes are almost certainly related to the threaded rods or screws that lift the Z axis. I had them a little warped once, and instead of spinning in a completely straight axis, they kinad jiggled around, making those repeating layers outside their designed position.

[@kylebija]

I am certain the cause of the issues with the first few layers is over-extrusion. I have seen this many times. Imagine it this way: each line of plastic exceeds the allotted space, spilling a little into the area for the next line. As the layer is laid, each successive line encroaches more on the next. First you get ripples, then you get rough patches, then you get boogers. When you get to higher layers where there are gaps for the excess filament to spill into, the displacement stops having these chain reactions. The lines aren't spilling into eachother anymore, so the print evens out and the rest prints smoothly. Alleviate the over-extrusion by reducing flow rate and/or increasing the height for the first layer. Looking at those prints, probably moreso the flow rate.

[@kylebija]

Love your videos, BTW. This was a great review.

[@kylebija]

One more idea for you: I print with up to 0.8mm line width and 0.3mm layer height all the time with a standard 0.4mm nozzle. Surprising how well that works! I'm shocked that now one seems to talk about doing that.

[@RobertTolone]

Wow, I’m going to try that. Thanks!

[@securityrobot]

I like your off the peg creature creations.

[@magnetomage]

If the zits disappear at the same level, I would check either the lead screw or the It might be a snagging issue with the cables when it is that low (I would check your cables anyway for things like strain relief as well since a lot of cheaper printers do not do a good job of strain relief on any of their cables)

[@robinson-foundry]

Something no one talks about is ambient temperature fluctuations. if you have an air conditioned home, then its possible the air kicking on is what is causing the weird layer shifting at specific intervals.

[@RobertTolone]

Good suggestion. Temperature control is probably just as important in printing as it is in resin casting. Congratulations on your channel Seth! You have really blown up!

[@per_sev]

I like the clothes peg designs at the end. esp the hyena.

[@art-eroflore]

Im not at the point qhere i cab afford or have the space for a printer but im glad to find a reviewer whos an artist who just wants the machine to work- nowadays it feels like all advice about machines is “build it yourself! Fix it yourself!” Granted i built my computer but that was simple enough, i dont think ill be much of a tinkerer when it comes to thise. Just not my thing. I do like reading the comments to see what the tinkerers think! Also i love the clothespin toys at the end, very cute!

[@robertmac3698]

I have this printer, I had a similar problem I found the printer was jerky and if it wasn’t on a very stable table it would make failed prints and poor quality prints. So I have to put it on my kitchen island and put stickers on the feet and this helped my prints significantly.

[@frost3ite29]

I’ve found with my lk5 pro is the silicone leveling columns they work to hold the bed pretty dang level and once I switched to them it’s been smooth sailing now I just need to figure something out with speed

[@DAMorrison]

Looking forward to whatever you're planning once you've set up your printer farm.

[@farfaraway4285]

Its wonderful how you embraced new technologies sir. Many happy printings!

[@mfx1]

Anything that appears at regular intervals I'd be looking at resonance issues.

[@davidtragen6800]

Go Robert!!! I love the anglerfish and it would be great to see you create one of the clothes pegs for a future video!

[@runklestiltskin_2407]

My guess concerning your early layer issues is, that the initial layer was too close.

[@thegrafxguy1]

the garbage at the bottom can probably be attributed to 2 things: 1. too much bed temp, or not consistent bed temp. see if it allows you to PID tune the bed. otherwise it's probably just too hot for that filament. 2. your Z-axis lead screw/or z axis wheels either have a bend if it's the rod, or flat spots in the wheels. see if having it move up and down the z-axis causes weirdness every time it gets to a certain point. edit: those drawings are rad!! lets see some of those casted!

[@funx24X7]

I second the bed temp being too high. It looks like the fans kick on at a certain height to alleviate the issue, causing the abrupt change in quality.

[@RobertTolone]

The bed temp was set to 60c. That temperature seems to work fine on the other printers but perhaps the bed is actually hotter than it is reporting. I shall get out my infrared thermometer and measure from now on. It will be fun to make those silly clothes pin toys. Lots of people make them using the actual pins, I just planned to use the spring hinge.

[@thegrafxguy1]

@@RobertTolone is your firmware capable of doing a PID tune on the bed? Recommended if so

[@Tobias-von-Swe]

That bottom problem of yours seem like a “too much plastic” problem to me, based on the bobbles and the elephants foot. There can be many causes for too much plastic. Personally i mostly get it from starting the print to close to the bed and with the warped bed that might be the case here, getting to close to make it stick everywhere. Does it stop at exactly the same hight every time no matter what you’re printing? Then it’s probably the lead screw or some layer dependent setting. Is it to hot and it get better when the fan gets to a 100% sort of thing. Does it stop at “about” the same hight and gets affected by the prints shape and what layer the infill starts? Probably to much plastic that doesn’t have anywhere to go. You can fix it in several ways. Getting a perfect hight helps but it’s a bother. You can lower the flow rate for layer two till around ten. I’m lazy so i just use a raft. A raft prints a surface for your actual design to print on. It fixes the problem here because the first layers are a bitt checkered. Bottom segment is 50-50 plastic and air. Middle segment is 75% plastic, top is 100%. Each segment is one or a few layers. The point is that the air gaps in the bottom layers lets the extra plastic squeeze to the sides right away and it evens out even if the bed isn’t that even. Works wonders for me.

[@RobertTolone]

So you specify the raft settings? I tried printing with a raft and it was snotty. Then the snot continued into the print. Like I say in the video, for about 4 mm.

[@Tobias-von-Swe]

@@RobertTolone if it’s a to much plastic problem then there is a lot of extra plastic. What your looking for is if it makes a noticeable difference to the hight of the problem. An easier thing to test is to lower the flow rate in the slicer settings and see if that makes the problem shrink. Even if it messes up the higher part of the print you will get an indication if it’s relevant to the problem. My gut says it’s a combination of being too close to the bed and too high flow rate. Have you done a flow calibration box? You just print a box with no roof with 0,8mm walls. Because that is two lines wide a good calliper can easily tell you how you need to modify the flow rate.

[@queeg6473]

I do like an honest review.

[@5in1killa]

Maybe in the slicer your first "X" layers are set to do something weird. Like too high fan speed or low fan speed or head speed or even layer height,

[@randallbourque1321]

That is what I was thinking. Generally in the slicer you have settings that say for the first # of layers print temperature should be this..and fan set to this. Because that is a big elephants foot versus what I am used to.

[@RasielDraconis]

The regular striations going up the side of the print *may* indicate a problem with either the lead screws or an issue with one of the rubber wheels that are rolling along the v-grooves. It could be something as simple as a bad-casting of the wheel or a mal-aligned bearing. Not 100% certain there, but if I remember a few people's videos right, that would be the first location to check for issues. Perhaps try manually rotating all the wheels by a quarter and see if it occurs again, but offset. That may help determine if it is the wheels. One other thought that occurs to me is something Nerys said about that happening when the vertical gantry carriage is over-tightened on one side, causing it to grip and slightly wobble upward when it hits overly tight spots as the wheels roll. That *may* be another thing to check later on if you can confirm the wheels themselves are not the issue. As for the snotty first few layers, I had something like that happen to myself and I wonder if it's the same thing. For me, there were some slicer settings when the print starts that has either the bed or the nozzle at too high of a temperature for your filament. Normal offset is around 5 or so degrees, but for whatever reason, mine was doing around 15 degrees hotter, which had been slightly cooking the filament. Alternatively, and was a secondary issue I was having that was again in the slicer settings, it may be over-extruding for the first few layers. Occasionally, the first layer does get a bit of over-extrusion, but on an older machine I had, it did that over extrusion for the first 20 or so layers. Either way, I'd suggest checking the slicer settings if you are using their profile or trying a different slicer profile to see if it's just some weird artifact in the current one you are using.

[@peircedan]

For myself I have stuck to using small mini type printers. With these it is easy to level the bed and I don't want to do prints that take longer than nine or ten hours. When I need a bigger item I break the design into manageable parts and bolt them together. A colleague of mine runs a big expensive printer at work with all the bells and whistles and it still has a lot of failed prints. He is doing more complex stuff and the machine has dual extrusion. There is just so much more that can go wrong. As someone else pointed out with a big printer there is a temptation to use a raft. I never need one with my small printers.

[@RobertTolone]

I agree, my little Kingroon KPS 3 has been the easiest of the FDM printers to use.

[@Rob-qe3cg]

I used an inexpensive filament printer for a while, and while mine was smaller, I had similar issues to you. No clue if the bed was warped, but it seemed like I needed to re-level it every print. Ultimately just handed it off to a friend when I moved: I was interested in miniature printing, and the filament ones just don't have the level of detail for 28mm men. I agree that unless you're a gear-head who loves working on the machine itself, you want to pay more money and pay less time. Unrelated to that, I was wondering if you had any idea how to approach 3-up sculpting and casting? I've been wanting to get into casting my own sculpts, and reading old articles on mini casting, they frequently show off a sculpt at 3x the size that they somehow shrink down to the final cast size. Is that something someone can accomplish in a garage set up, or is there specialized tools I wouldn't be able to get? Love your stuff, glad to see your toolbox expanding.

[@RobertTolone]

I don’t know what process they were using for the 3-up method. Sometimes I have been required to sculpt a prototype two or three times larger than the final object. But that was so that the scan would have sufficient resolution and data for the final model.

[@levinebette15]

A master at characters!

[@recurveninja]

The snotting at the start and banding at regular intervals looks like a leadscrew issue IMO. Probably some grit or something near the bottom, and an overall bend causing the banding.

[@walid4337]

well i had that problem in some of my printers i would say its a flaw in the z rod sometimes the gantry is not aligned or the rollers are a little too tight

[@RobertTolone]

I think if I put this thing on a granite slab and broke out the micrometers I would find out how actually wonky it is!

[@mertuckan]

Please can we go back to mold making and casting?

[@RobertTolone]

Fear not. this is not a 3-D printing channel. But I really like the possibilities that 3-D printing opens up for mold making. That is why I am suffering through these machine reviews.

[@5FSF]

The first layers being messed up is because your filament wants to be cooled but cura starts the first layers with no fan and ramps it up. This is done because when printers were newer, fan cooling would cause initial layer adhesion issues. Modern printers do not need to ramp up, ESPECIALLY if you print fast. I can get my Ender 3 clones to print at 400% of the stock "50 mm/s" print speed with almost no problem but the first layers looked like garbage until I just started turning the fans on manually from the first layer.

[@davesilva9174]

SnapMaker makes a fanatic printer(s) that answer all your requests. You’re welcome to barrow mine to experiment with anytime. Crazy Al has my contact info.

[@apinakapinastorba]

These kinds of printers are IMO a waste of money and time. There are so many corners cut to save money, they do not anymore do what they are supposed to do. The only thing manufacturer cares about are numbers. Price and build volume mostly. Does it actually work? Who cares.

[@missingmymarbles]

I second the build plate temp is too high for your PLA. If you have a IR temperature reader check what the temp of the build plate is at the start of the print. It's possible the bed is not reporting the correct temp and it's actually hotter. Hotter bed means softer first layers as they don't properly cool and the weight of of the next layers basically deforms them even more. I've seen this on our nice Ultimaker 5S at work where we tried to do a PLA + PC combination print and it used the build plate temp for the PC (which is hotter) that was an interesting failure lol

[@Theexplorographer]

Definitely get yourself a large garden paver to set your printer on. The mass of the large block will smooth out your prints and also make it fairly quiet. One of my best printers is the first one I bought for $150. Granted, I put many hours of upgrades and tweaking into it. So is it the cheapest, no not by any means. Cheap to get into...but to make it work consistently and properly, many many hours invested. In contrast, my Creality 10s Pro, great out of the box and still perfect.

[@runklestiltskin_2407]

I started on a cr10s, had all the problems mentioned here, I am so happy with my Voron 2.4 now.

[@RobertTolone]

I have heard that people are very happy with their Voron printers. I will look into them.

[@runklestiltskin_2407]

@@RobertTolone they are diy projects, the setup process is way more involved, comparable to buying a Prusa mk3 kit + pi + linux + Klipper, there are instructions for assembly and install and videos, but it takes solid 24 working hours to have one ready to go. There are mostly chinese vendors, who offer kits. Good luck and don't hesitate to ask, if you are interested.

[@jonathanditren1680]

this printer is not so great, it's not fully compatible with Cura, comes with a warp bed and no BLtouch.

[@yossarian7617]

I have an old Ender 5 and a new upgraded Ender V3. Don't know why but printers where the Extruder is on the Z axis always cause problems, I've seen a lot of people complain and I experienced it myself. Ender 5 is a far superior machine than the V3 which is a newer model. I saw you're using a glass bed. I tried one too as well as a metal plate bed. Both are crap. Small prints don't stick to a metal plate at all and glass conducts the bed heat in such a way that it ruins the first layers. My theory in your case is that the first layer is set nicely, but then because of poor heat conductivity (or something) the edges cool and pop a little off the buildplate making them warp and stick upwards. On printing the next layer the extruder just pushes the plastic that sticks up from the previous layer to the sides making those snots. If I'm correct the inside of that cylinder shouldn't have any snots at all. For the print bed I recommend the cheap flexible magnetic mats. Zero issues with bed adhesion and you can also level it perfectly. Because the mat is very flexible you can add small strips of paper underneath in key areas. Another theory is the filament itself. I noticed the snots were far less pronounced on the gray print compared to the black print. The pigment changes the properties of the filament way too much so I gave up on them completely. White PLA is the only way to go for me. Transparent PLA is also good.

[@mercknucca]

The issue I had with mine was the rollers on the left side were all loss so the whole bed wiggled. I tightened those and did the paper test. Plus I took of the Teflon tube and reinstalled it as it seemed like it wasn't pushed all the way into the nozzle head. After that everything has been printing great. There is an auto leveler that longer offers its like 30$ I'm thinking about getting it

[@andyspillum3588]

LOVE the idea seeds! Don't know if I have clothes-pins but you just gave me a great idea for some sculpy and "trash" that I have been eyeing to repurpose. Thank You

[@whompronnie]

These companies don't improve their printers. They just put out different models and create new companies to crank out countless variants of the same machine.

[@linus2564tyler]

Love the drawings at the end!👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼

[@kokodin5895]

looks like your bed overheated the print i would try to lower bed temperature and both flat parts and lower levels of the part should be hine, or try finding cooling fan options in the slicer and look for anything that disables part cooling in first layers

[@fierceflyer5]

Love the honest review, wish everyone on KZbin who received a free item was as honest!

[@MAGNUM1244]

kobra max has all those things anycubic

[@FranklyPeetoons]

Moar 3D printing content pleeez, in addition to the raisin casting. You should probably get a mesh bed leveling printer. The Mingda is great at about $320. Never level again.

[@RobertTolone]

Absolutely I will never again get a manually- leveled printer! 😳😬😩😭

[@CobwebsandCandlesticks]

Love the honest pros and cons! No sugar coating!

[@bonce]

that early repeatable snot is too much plastic. yeah I know obvious as all hell but the actual underlying reason /could/ be a complicated set of factors. my money though is that the head thinks it's WAY higher up than it actually is, so when it's supposed to be laying a new bead down at the next height up, that height isn't as high as it thinks it is, so it's adding more plastic in place than it should be. As it progresses up the print the difference levels out and the additional plastic dies out, the print continues as normal. Testing is good, right? in the same print job, print multiple square based towers at different widths, 5mm, 10mm, 25mm, if they all have the same snottage at the same heights, thats the issue right there, the nozzle is NOT where the printer thinks it is, it's close sure, but not quite and that scaled difference is most noticable where the base constraint is, remove the constraint (height) and the error relaxes. ALTHOUGH! 3D printers LOVE to catch you on speculation. I've had a dodgy 3D printer for years, it finally cocked up one time too many and I threw it in the parts bin. I now have a Prusa Mini+ and I bloody love it cos I don't have to think about how to dial it in, or call upon the darkest forces. I don't want a close and personal relationship with a hammer, I just need it to hit stuff harder than my hand.

[@RobertTolone]

Thanks, I’ll give your test a try.

[@JustBobGaming]

That is some weird printing artifacts, especially since its localized to the bottom layers. Check and see what temp the bed changes to, if any, at the later layers and change it to that number. Extrusion multiplier would be my next guess but with it being... fine.. later on I would see if anything changes within the software as the print goes on first, (cooling, bed temps nozzle temps) definitely try different software, my current free favorite is Prusaslic3r if that machine is lock to a software then I would start looking hardware. (make sure its solid as a rock and the things that move are oiled) Anyways love the videos and I dont comment often on anything but that is some weird printing artifacts and I've seen my fair share so I hope you figure it out and report back.

[@RobertTolone]

Thanks Just, I will keep working on it!

[@kevinm3751]

I will NEVER buy a Bowden printer and FYI there is no such thing as a level bed! The ONLY way to do it is automatic bed leveling where the machine can calculate and store the bed level and then compensate for that during the print! Since you have already identified issues with your bed I would suggest the problem with those first few layers being bad is due to the head being to close to the print.

[@RobertTolone]

I prefer direct drive myself. Seems like once you establish the Z zero height the printer should print fine.

[@kainoctis7724]

CR-10v2 is goat. I got mine for £200 off amazon warehouse, brand new. I did get £60 off for a bent z-screw though so about £260

[@RobertTolone]

People do love their CR-10v2s!

[@benford3652]

One kinda quick and dirty solution to a warped bed is to use a piece of borosilicate glass. Some plastics will not adhere to the glass though. Three downsides: the bed needs to warm the glass before you get started, an auto level sensor that is magnetically triggered will not work, and it adds a bunch of mass to the bed. In general, printing taller parts on a bed slinger design is inherently difficult, as your slinging more mass as you print and some of that mass is molten plastic. Bed adhesion will really be critical. You may want to add rafts to tall parts to give more contact area with the bed. Good luck. Those crappy printers will keep coming for review. Maybe eventually you'll get enough someone can make one decent printer for you

[@RobertTolone]

Thanks for your input. I am done accepting budget printers. This experience has convinced me that they are not right for my personality or my channel! From now on machines will have to meet two criteria: The first thing is that they are complete and work right out of the box. No need for upgrades or modifications just to make them work. Second the company must accept that I don’t do reviews. I will happily use a machine for projects if it can expand the opportunities for the channel. Otherwise I am not interested.

[@johndesgarennes]

Had the same problem, ended up being the Z axis (the side without the motor ) rollers being too tight. If you do a z home you can actually see the one side stick uneven for a few MM or so. This is why it transitions from terrible to good after several layers.. I just received this printer two days ago, lots of little things needs to be done, like fixing the wobble on the table as well. but after that everything seems to be good. I can send you picture before and after test cubes I did, and where I loosened it to make it work.

[@RobertTolone]

That would be great, thanks! Send pics to [e-mail]

[@bruinflight]

the fireball tools channel here on YT talks about 'flat' and how difficult it is to achieve; I wonder if you can add a custom granite build plate or some such... maybe a sheet of glass on top of the warped bed and use torn-to-size pieces of paper underneath as shims in the low spots?

[@RobertTolone]

The world of machine tools is obsessed with a level of precision that is almost other-worldly. Massive granite plates and dimensions measured in 10thousandths of inch. Of course, then there is the James Webb space telescope where dimensions are measured in the molecular scale.

[@wollibar5263]

To be honest, I do not get too much out of the 3D printer reviews, I respect the work and comittment of anybody who does, but I am a regular viewer who got hooked on your casting skills and learned a lot here. So what do I do here without even careing about 3D printing?

[@RobertTolone]

Fear not Wolli! There is one more printer review to do (contract obligation 😳😩). After that it’s project videos only. There are some very interesting molding and casting videos in the pipeline.

[@brandonrobinson1603]

I know nothing about 3D printing but could you replace the bed? Maybe with a bed from a different brand?

[@RobertTolone]

Yes, I could replace and upgrade just about every piece of this printer. I’d rather spend my time printing than fixing the printer. Instead next time I’ll just get a better printer. 👍😊

[@tom1tom234]

HUGE HELLO to Robert and community. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and for being the wonderful person you are, bless your soul! I am wondering if you know of any GLOW IN THE DARK resin that we could use for castings.

[@RobertTolone]

Thanks! You can Google “glow in the dark pigments epoxy resins” and find numerous places selling them.

[@tom1tom234]

@@RobertTolone You are awesome! Appreciate the quick reply. 🙏

[@cresshead]

i just want a 3D printer to work...

[@RobertTolone]

Me too.

[@AnthonyPotts]

For a warped bed, I put small snips of aluminum foil in the middle, where I found it to be low. This evened out my glass bed to an acceptable point. I have since gone to automatic bed leveling, but it's a good cheap fix.

[@anon_y_mousse]

I actually know why the vertical lines show up, it's because for each layer it's starting and stopping in the same place. Supposedly you can randomize that, but I don't remember how. Saw that one on another channel that does 3D printing. Might have been Maker's Muse. I've said it before, and I'll probably say it again because I don't have the best memory, but I love to tinker. When I finish moving, I'd like to make a 3D printer from scratch. My idea for the build plate is to make a thick rigid plate out of aluminum and grind it as flat as possible, then take a thing sheet of some metal and attach it to that as a way to flex the print off. Maybe even just some aluminum foil and tape the corners.

[@mordantly]

Can you run a pid tune on the bed and hotend heaters?

[@RobertTolone]

I could if I knew what that was! 🤪 I’ll go look it up and see.

[@katevandeweghel2691]

Hi Robert, I m using 3d printers to create big prints, as big as a person. I've bought 3 artillery sidewinders, put in 1.2mm nozzles and print with 0.9mm layers. Very happy with them, they really don't need any attention ;-). Big parts are not super precise, but it is actually much easier to print with these fat layers, even if your print bed is not a 100% level,not fiddly at all. I would be interested in learning how to assemble separate parts (which don't fit exactly) so they form a strong structure. Or learn about assembling hollow casted parts.

[@RobertTolone]

Wow Kate, what kinds of things do you make? Those printers must really chew through filament spools! The first project I am going to do with this printer is made from printed sections. I will demonstrate how I put them together. Spoiler. the 3-D printer is only making the skin. The structure and the strength of the final sculpture will come from the resin and foam interior. Should be fun!

[@katevandeweghel2691]

@@RobertTolonesounds like very much fun 😁. I work in a similar way. But i even have to slice the sections, because they are still to big. Chewing through2.4 kg rolls lsometimes in 1 day 😁. Hesitating now if i should get a resin printer, maybe if the parts are printed more precise, the assembly would be easier and cleaner.... I m curious to see how you will go about it, you always have good ideas. Watch out with how much foam you pour in one go, i recently blew off a head 😭 filling my model with foam... I think it buillt up too much pressure or temperature in the neck. I can send you some pic of my sculptures if you like. Looking forward to next friday

[@RobertTolone]

@@katevandeweghel2691 Send pics to me a roberttolone@ yahoo.com

[@Jkauppa]

trash not worth it, not taking any of it

[@Jkauppa]

not even as trash gift

[@Jkauppa]

maybe it can be made something useful

[@Jkauppa]

no longer needed, or essential

[@Jkauppa]

try inkjet 3d printers (both uv and plastic)

[@Jkauppa]

objet30

[@ArcticFlies56]

Bob, it’s nice to see you are enjoying your “down” time. Unfortunately, or fortunately you appointed me to tell you when you are going off the point of your channel description of MOLD & RESIN MAKING. I’m not sure where you’re going with this new programming. One week your teaching us how to make molds and pour resin which if I’m correct won you a huge following of You Tubers. Now you’re off on a tangent of critiquing 3-D printers. Do I hear the slippage of subscribers starting to loose interest? Time to make some decisions Bob. Is this 3-D printing really something you are interested in? Do you really want to vacate your channel parameters. Think long and hard my friend. You’re at a dangerous cross roads. With that I wish you only the very best. Richard

[@RobertTolone]

Hey Richard, thanks for chiming in. I have little interest in 3-D printers per se. But I really like the things we can potentially do with them - like directly printing molds in flexible materials or mold cases that are shaped to fit the sculpture to be cast. The possibilities are endless. I try to put a positive spin on things but I really dislike doing machinery reviews which is why I usually don’t do them. Two of the machines I accepted are from the same supplier. I made the mistake of accepting the machines before reading the contract. This machine and one other had very strict requirements. Rather than put up a battle I thought, lesson learned. I will meet the requirements and be sure that in the future I can use the machine on projects, not do reviews. In short, you won’t see machinery reviews on my channel. There will be one more to fulfill my obligation but after that I shall be careful to avoid them. I really dislike doing them anyway. And there are lots and lots of good KZbin channels doing reviews. I turn down advertisers at least once or twice a week, sometimes more often than that because of what they are selling or how strict they are about video content. All that said, I would like to do projects beyond mold making and casting. That’s why I ran that poll a few weeks ago asking if the viewers preferred I stick with mold making or if they would watch me do other kinds of projects. Overwhelmingly they said that they would watch a variety of projects. But never fear, moldmaking will always be a core part of the channel because I love doing it and there is still much more to explore. Richard I always value your input because you are such a regular contributor to the content of this channel. Thanks for being here and for taking part in the comments! 👍👍👍

[@ArcticFlies56]

@@RobertTolone Wow that’s a relief! I thought you were going over the edge Bob. Glad to see you were just dabbling on the dark side. Ha ha! As many of your subscribers, I look forward to watching your channel to see what you will come up with next. Best regards. Richard

[@Escape_normality]

Oops, i liked your videos because they were so ‘true to yourself’ and unique. This feels so commercial…

[@Markadium_]

Oops, I replied to your comment because it’s so ‘true to yourself’ and unique. This feels so unnecessary…

[@randallbourque1321]

If it were a commercial....it would have nothing bad to say. Did you actually watch the video? Because I feel like you didn't.

[@whompronnie]

You win the Worst Take award. Congratulations!

[@Escape_normality]

@@randallbourque1321 good people start thinking on what the content is supposed to be

[@pashaveres4629]

@@randallbourque1321 seems like "commercial" as an adjective as opposed to a noun. Clearly not a commercial, too much negativity. But it was kinda commercial.

[@robertarthropthesecond]

no, please stay with your specialty, the mold making and casting tips. There are enough 3 D specialists out there!

[@Escape_normality]

Yes exactly, that’s what we love. Not trying to push commercial stuff!

[@RobertTolone]

Sorry for this side line into the 3-D printer marketing. I dislike doing machine reviews but I think 3-D printers are an excellent tool that can open up interesting ways to make molds. The manufacturers can be quite demanding in what they expect in return! Not to worry, there are molding and casting projects in the works. Thanks for hanging in here with the channel and for your comment.

[@Escape_normality]

@@RobertTolone love your molding and casting projects. Those are unique and you share your knowledge that helps everyone enjoy making stuff themselves. Keep up the good work, great content.