Making My Version of the Samurai Router Jig

[@celestewilkins2886]

I'm used to larger, corded routers kzbin.infoUgkxfQ5_mgwq6PcudJvAH25t-I4D-3cTPz4z so this was a different experience for me. Basically, this is an incredibly sweet machine, fits well in the hand, etc. It has slightly less power than I'm used to, but that's understandable. Maneuvering freehand takes some practice. These days, it's especially nice to be able to avoid power cords. This is above the level of a hobbyist but below a pro level.

[@independentliberty9628]

Nice to see a good young carpenter that isn't arrogant and over confident.

[@bobbymccourt6794]

A trick with the threaded holes is to soak them with thin CA and spray with accelerator. Hardens the threads and they last forever. Love the jig. Awesome work!

[@fer662]

If you need more hold you can always use threaded inserts

[@Richard-wk9le]

Bobby another trick- fill the thread hold half way up with 2 part penetrating epoxy, than wax the treads of the bolt -run the bolt in for a few seconds than back out, the bolt forces the epoxy into the treads/wood. Not as fast as CA but very strong P.S. clean bolt threads

[@hansbachtold1966]

Your jig is much better then the one from Samurai. Easier and quicker to adjust. Job well done

[@bennybaker6546]

My wife used your file to cut one out on her laser engraver. It works great. Thank you.

[@RealSenorMike]

@Marius - Nice refinement of the Samurai Carpenter's Jig. and thank you for the diagrams. Just downloaded a set tonight. Much appreciated.

[@goldbug007]

Awesome video. Thanks for the jig. I decided to make one. I only could find 1/4 in (6mm) polycarbonate. I dont have a cnc so used a router to mill the slots. This proved tricky as all the bits i had did not do a good job. Tried double flute straight bits 1/4 and 1/2 inch bit did not work well. Spiral 1/4 and 1/2 in bits and did not work either. The perfect bit for this was metal spiral bits with 6 flutes. Worked perfectly. Very clean cuts. The metal bit has a rounded end and eats polycarbonate like butter. Thanks again for this video

[@vollyman1962]

The magnet washer trick - I've never seen that. Brilliant!

[@timzimmert6036]

Mr Wandel did it

[@gaunerchen1729]

where was it?

[@TomSilver_42]

Trick is fine and I seen it already and like it, good job. But to be honest, here it seems to me a bit too much. It's OK for place where I do expect to change washer, but in this application ? I would expect the washer to be there .. well .. forever? Or, and it's still possible, I'm missing some important point :-). Anyway, thank you for the idea worth spreading and I'm going to redesign my one custom base (more slots and knobs from top).

[@arlingtonhynes]

Tom Silver In normal use, the knobs come out, and they go back in. He showed you that in the video. Watch the video. He showed you that in the video. Watch the video.

[@Langhorstiness]

@@arlingtonhynes Knobs are cheap and so are washers. Just epoxy a washer onto the knob and move on. The baseplate concept is excellent and the notched out fence is exactly the add-on that I did after seeing the samurai one.

[@Bjornarp]

joinery popping when pulled apart gives me so much joy :-P

[@captainscarlet6758]

I watched the same Video last month, but made the same base as yours. I don't have CNC so cut my slots on my router table. Its amazing how different people can have the same idea. I really like what You both do, Thank you.

[@MariusHornberger]

Haha, cool

[@rhuynh]

Brilliant ideas in here. Since you have silk those edge slots to use, you can also make handles or knobs for grabbing onto and pushing on and stick anywhere you want the help!

[@dwainlambrigger3769]

You earned my subscription with this video. Excellent jig. The Samarai Carpenter created a BRILLIANT idea you you improved it. Thanks for sharing.

[@Linrox]

Absolutely agree with Etna. Your videos are exceptionally more professional and less ego than Samurai carpenters, who has no professionalism.

[@dimitrioslykissas7981]

The shop-made knobs are fantastic. No matter how great the project, I just couldn't get over how nice and professional the knobs look. Concerning the threads, I believe you should give a good look to threaded inserts. They will eventually wear off the wood where they are threaded, but they will certainly last well beyond what any threads directly on wood will.

[@dannydoyle3923]

Marius it’s a pleasure watching you making all your jigs.

[@plunder1956]

This is a really clever tool idea; which is also compact and portable. M8 screw threads in wood work well. But also look at even coarser threads. Lining them with Wood glue and letting it set is another idea a friend taught me.

[@willibald1986]

Super, dass du die DXF und so zum Download bereitstellst. Hat prima funktioniert.

[@surlycanadian]

awesome. i will be doing this! i like the slotted holes so much better than fussing with the samurai's original design with dozens of countersunk screw holes. i think i'll use extruded aluminum rails with t-bolts instead of hardwood though and i'll put a strip of UHMW tape on the faces of the extrusion so that they glide nicely.

[@davidnleeh4]

AWESOME redesigns!!!!!! Love the embedded magnets & the way you can switch slots when you run out of room from the top, brilliant!!!!!👍👍

[@francoisbouvier7861]

Very well done. I don't have the CNC but with a little patience I think I can replicate your excellent design.

[@scott98390]

It also occured to me that for routing centered grooves/holes, instead of the guides you can attach two round pins to the template equidistant from the bit, and turn it until they meet, just like a center finder... but only if the hole isn't too close to the end of the work piece.

[@abescheepers]

Excellent improvement on the Samurai Carpenter's jig. Although I don't have a CNC I will be building one soon. Great video, thanks!!

[@f.d.6667]

As a chair maker by trade, I am super impressed with this jig!

[@miemi81]

thx for your plans Marius et thx for your job !

[@chepeperez9457]

Awesome job. Way to take jig to another level.

[@scott98390]

You could add a knob into the base plate in an unused slot (6:03) to make it easier to hold onto.

[@NotQuiteFirst]

Brilliant idea by Samurai Carpenter, brilliant execution by Marius

[@marceaton3128]

Marius, your skill and ability blows me away. Your future is very bright and prosperous, thanks for sharing your ideas. Merry Christmas

[@graemewilson8423]

Awsome Germany efficiency, Loved it

[@DeDiescher]

Hab das teil schon oft auf YT gesehen, nur ohne Anleitung, deine Lösung gefällt mir auch sehr gut!

[@travisthechimp7857]

Nice! Add a locking handle that runs in a track on the side of the guide fence so that you can adjust it back and forth along the guide fence.

[@peterschilling4251]

Super umgesetzt und prima Zeichnungen angeferdigt. Freue mich schon auf weitere Videos.

[@Tilburger72]

I had the plexiglass sheet milled and arranged 2 beams of beech wood. Is the thread in the wood strong enough? (3 minutes in the explanation)?

[@alindorindicu3732]

Thanks for the jig! I recently bouht 2 Makita rp2300fcxj, the router kit, with the rail guides. I'm thinking that 2 guides on the rails can do the trick for the mortise, with the millimetric adjuster, too!

[@jeremyspecce]

Very nice, and nice change to the threaded holes with the knobs. I recently did a project where I had to drill and tap about 150 10-24 holes in polycarbonate so this is right on my wavelength right now. I might have enough scrap to make my own!

[@thomastieffenbacherdocsava1549]

Now if I only had a CNC machine! LOL! Good adaptation, now I will have to adapt.

[@hummmingbear]

Thank you so so so much for freely posting your files. I was able to send them directly to my local CNC shop and have it cut in an hour!

[@billhickman6455]

Outstanding presentation, well thought out design and provided drawings free! Class act Marius. Thank you for sharing your work.

[@harrygirgin9093]

Seriously superb. So smart with the more versatile solution. I watched the samurai carpenter version which was awesome. But this is exquisite.

[@karmasee]

would it be possible for you to make a self-centering mortise that can be used for door lock? door lock jigs that are available in the market are ridiculously expensive.

[@weldabar]

I was trying to think of a way to improve Samurai's version. Yours is the perfect solution!

[@JohnKrakatoa]

Very good improvement to a great tool, I was planning to make something like Jessie as well so thanks.

[@henriquecorrea1562]

It's really good of you for making it open-source =)

[@jackdavid23]

I like the improvement. But, what's the use of putting holes on all four sides? I get the left n right holes for the fences. Can skip d top n bottom, right?

[@KebriteSolutions]

Really great video. As buying the plastic locally (Vancouver CA) was expensive for me and I don't trust my drilling/groove cutting skills, I took the plans to a local plastics company who could make them up for about CAD$60. Just mentioning this in case people wanted another option for how they can get their hands on this.

[@johnparker2636]

This is brilliant - are the plans still available? I tried the link but it didn't work?

[@drmkiwi]

Your home made knob looks like a bought one. Impressive idea with the magnet too. Good work and thanks for the video. Cheers, David

[@DarkTouch]

nice work. you might consider making the main hole sized and counter sunk to accept a router guide to have additional options and flexibility. i have a piece of polycarbonate waiting for this... One other thing, i would mount the plate on the router before drilling the center hole, then use a router bit to cut the center hole. that way it is perfectly centered.

[@eskimo071170]

Thanks for the plans of the Baseplate. What a nice Tool. Will build this for my Triton router ;-)

[@eskimo071170]

And also for my Bosch POF 1400 ACE ;-) What kind of thread cutter (Gewindeschneider) did you use for the M8 thread?

[@kiwdwks]

Awesome jig improvement...thanks for sharing!

[@billmacgregor1041]

Very skilful ! I'll be making this. Thanks

[@langerbanger83]

Great design and upgrades. Thanks for sharing.

[@thomaskleinbauer6518]

Would the base plate still be strong enough if you removed the little bridge between two adjacent slots? I suppose it would suffice to only keep the center bridge on each side.

[@psycodoood]

Do you happen to have the plans for your dust boot? it seems very well done and functional

[@WilliamAlanPhoto]

This is a great upgrade!

[@mgdew]

if you cnc'd them without the final router base screw holes and provided the fences in different sizes (thinking for carcass builds etc) you could make a fortune by selling them to us all who dont readily have a cnc machine or friendly local CNC place ;) - great video. only thing I would say is the fences could have a tapped m8 threaded insert into them so they will last a lot longer with the constant unscrewing, moving and screwing up again

[@jean-pierresager3066]

Hi, das ist wirklich mal eine smarte Lösung. Die werde ich auch nach bauen, was ich eigentlich nicht mache. Dank und Gruss

[@Sebastopolmark]

GREAT project. I like the fact that you can move the base and not the router.

[@ridewithme2074]

Great design and craftsmanship.

[@MB-gf6zd]

Hello Marius, I tried to trimm the plexiglass , but melted it. Could be a router speed , the low quality bit , any suggestion ? many thanks for Your video .

[@NormanMackay]

Some great stuff in this film 👍

[@thomasklink3766]

Love the magnet to hold the washer, that is super cool. Good video, wish I had a CNC.

[@Tilburger72]

Nice jig . I have found somebody with a cnc who make it. He hasn’t 1cm thick plexiglass available. I can chose between 8mm or thicker. Probable 12mm. What would be better? Is 8 enough?

[@MariusHornberger]

8mm is enough, but I'd go with 12mm

[@Tilburger72]

@@MariusHornberger I have a confirmation. I can choose between 8 and 15mm Would 15 to thick? I think it limits also the maximum thickness of the machine

[@stenmoeller]

Good work. Yet as to M8 in hardwood in the long run, I would use brass inserts with inner M8 threads which would outlast any thread in hardwood. But that's just me. And the next thing for you to ponder upon would be to fix the router movement lengthwise with some sort of stops. That would be very valuable for serial production of parts.

[@andrewtongue7084]

Absolute genius, Marius - I prefer your design to that of the samurai Carpenter - especially the locating holes (with the tapping out of the wood) guide rails. It's a brilliant concept, & once again, you don't disappoint :D

[@Deqster]

You could reduce the size of the slots around the edge (to clear a 1/4-20 inch or M6 thread) and make it into a T-slot, and add handles for surface-work where you can see through your base plate. Nice revision to the already awesome samurai version!

[@nigelholland1811]

Nice job! Very good upgrade. Will certainly do this on mine.

[@timothyrye1865]

If you cut a slight recess into some of the slots on the sides, you could use t-bolts for handles for some operations.

[@mooizweden2022]

hello Marius, thank you very much for the DFX file for the cnc machine. can it be that there is a mistake in the plan? apparently something has been inserted in the lower part and at this point the cnc machine stops. unfortunately I cannot edit the file. would you check that out, please? Many Thanks. Ingrid from the Netherlands.

[@gregbrooks9546]

What is the next best way to cnc the poly.

[@sajidrafique375]

Lovely fixture

[@smash5967]

Needs more dust collection. Also, what are the unused slots on the sides for?

[@leewarren]

Excellent work. Very impressive!

[@xXOliasXx]

do you know which thread the base plate screws are? i tried regular m5 iso but they don't work, support also has no clue...

[@wojteksci]

I see that you use some kind of connector on the power cable. What is it exactly? Did you talk about that previously?

[@MariusHornberger]

Yes, I have a video about it on my channel

[@tonys8567]

Thank you. Great video. Your baseplate (PDF) shows the length of the dados, but not how fare in from the edges, and the distance to the center point between the nearest two dados, then how far from the center point and distance between the dados. Could you please advise.

[@shawnrolley2129]

Is there any way to get the plans so I can cut the notches for the adjustments. I don’t have a CNC and will have to do by hand.. let me know thanks

[@pault22pt]

Hi Marius, this is by far my favorite router jig. Unfortunately, the file for the jig isn't uploaded anymore. Would it be possible for you to upload it again or is there another way to attain those plans? Thank you

[@agbonsmakh3707]

I can't find the files too

[@MariusHornberger]

there's a new link. Try again

[@silmarartesanatos]

Do you have the video showing how you made your inverted tuft?

[@urbanwoodworking233]

Thanks for sharing. That jig can also be made to fit in a router table so that there is no setup time. Also, with all the fences removed from, this jig can be used to make router boxes (boxes cut using a template, with the boxes having curved sides)

[@lelandclayton5462]

I would use heli-coils for the wood threads on the fence parts and also add handles on the base plate so you're just not gripping the base plate. Other then that it's a pretty sweet setup.

[@paulroos8517]

Very nice jig, thankyou. Your presentation is well done. Question: Why 16 slots? Would eight (4 on each side) not be enough? Or do you put stops in the open slots? Idea: One could make the two wooden rails to be longer on both sides of the polycarbonate, and cut them on the inside down so that the polycarbonate plate slides squarely in them.

[@stevehowe9677]

I'm really curious about your power cord arrangement?

[@joser1219]

Marius, any reason why there are 4 slots per side instead one long slot per side to avoid removing the knobs? I'm sure if you cut one slot per side, the base would still have strength to hold in place and not snap off.

[@livedeliciously]

I was thinking the same thing. It's probably a matter of keeping the thin side of the slot more supported. If the slot is position more towards the center so there's more material on the outside edge, I think this could work.

[@leoschot3759]

What a great jig, i am going to build one soon for my router.

[@LT-gj3rm]

Thank you for a great jig

[@F1DesignUS]

3:22 ...magnet in the knob....Pure Genius!

[@robin2701]

I build Jesse his version. Could also use it as a circle jig. Can yours be used like that as well?

[@hk5455]

Marius, wäre es möglich die DXF Datei mit Zentimeter-Bemaßung statt Inches hier rein zu stellen?

[@garyconover4422]

Great ideas!!!! Thanks for sharing.

[@julianadams5753]

You're an ingenious genius !

[@hazembata]

Good to see you're making videos again. I dig it.

[@TheBelkul]

Great take on it, will make one as well. What’s the dust collector on the drill press called?

[@CCCfeinman55]

Thank you. This is a great collection of improvements on a great idea.

[@garrysmythe]

A brilliant build as always Marius, you are a very talented young man with an eye for detail, thanks for posting, from Garry in the UK

[@brianknowles7130]

Very good and well presented. Always enjoy your vids no matter what you do. Thks

[@stephenahearn2919]

Thanks for providing the files for this!! I easily found someone locally to laser cut it for me so no chamfering needed.

[@jeffstanley4593]

I am going to try this. I just bought a piece of 1/2 x 12 x 12 polycarbonate on eBay for $25 delivered.

[@joshchristopher9740]

Love the video, why not make the slots the length of the poly carbonate?

[@MariusHornberger]

I'll address this the next update video.

[@MaG-cn7mv]

Hi Marius, I just explored this video of you making the router jig. Great job. I really need a jig like that for my router to complete or even rescue my recent project. Unfortunately I don't have a CNC machine. Is it possible to buy a jig from you? That would be great.