Making Slip from Clay Trimmings

[@becca560]

Thanks so much. I particularly like the tip for using three buckets to maintain the trimmings-to-slip process. Lovely.

[@williamblack4611]

Thank you so much for you information on this subject. Also, coloring the slip for your slippy drippy technique has been so valuable. I hope you know how much this information means to all we less inspired potters. Will be trying to get my hands on some of your mugs.

[@OldForgeCreations]

Glad it was helpful!

[@benpatterson4452]

I have always been surprised that you don't have to deflocculate your slip, and are still able to avoid cracking with those thick drips and handle joins. I use a deflocculated slip in my classroom to mend broken wares. I've joined bone dry bits, right before they go in the kiln. Definitely not ideal circumstances, but it works!

[@OldForgeCreations]

I think it helps that I'm adding so much slip to the piece, everything gets rehydrated and sits for a little while with the slip still soft, so it can lose some of the tension it would otherwise have. I have a deflocculated slip for patching things up too, and definitely wouldn't want to try it with regular slip!

[@stephensalterpottery]

So much help. Trying today!!

[@jessicagrant3571]

Cheers, thank you for this thorough video, it's very helpful. I am having trouble getting the correct consistency for my slip, where it is thick enough to stay in place when initially applied, but thin enough to drip when the bat is tapped. When you pour your bucket it looks like the consistency of heavy cream. Would you be able to say what 100ml of your slip weighs out to (minus the vessel of course)? I often record that in my recipes as part of a sort of poor-man's specific gravity metric. Thank you again!

[@OldForgeCreations]

I think it will vary based on the characteristics of the clay, so I'm not sure my number will be that useful, but I think it was 1.55 last time I measured it. I go based on how it moves in the bucket. It should hold a 3D shape but not for sharp peaks. And that's really the only way to measure SG with something viscous, definitely not a poor-man's method!

[@Skam1one]

I'v never made black slip or glazes for that matter but I want to make some black slip. Red iron oxide, manganese dioxide, chrome oxide and cobalt oxide appears to be my shopping list. You mentioned using cobalt oxide or cobalt carbonate. it sounded like you were saying either would work but carbonate would work better for glazes but oxide would work fine for slip. Right now in the states cobalt oxide is $78 for 1 pound, but cobalt carbonate is $50 for 1lb. Should I go with the carbonate to make black slip? Because it's cheaper and when I start making glazes I will have the cobalt that is better for glaze making? When I search "red iron oxide" I get these two results.....Iron Oxide- Spanish Red and Ferric Oxide - Red Iron Oxide. Which of those should I get? I purchase some black ceramic stain to mix with white slip but the company told me I may only get grays and not black even though the reviews said it would make a nice black. it was $30 for 170grams. I plan to return it and try and make the black slip the way you do it. Thank you so much for your help!!!

[@OldForgeCreations]

It sounds like carbonate is a much more sensible choice for you, and I'd definitely go with that

[@Skam1one]

Thanks for the help!!@@OldForgeCreations

[@Gabriel667]

Which pottery wheel do you use and which one would you recommend for beginners?

[@OldForgeCreations]

I use a Skutt Steven Hill. I don't have enough experience of other wheels to give great advice, but Skutt do some cheaper wheels too and I've only heard good things about them. I love the wheel I have, but it's one of their most expensive.

[@Gabriel667]

@@OldForgeCreations Oh, cool! Thnak you anyway. I haven't heard of this brand before. Most of the reviews you can find online are for the Shimpo wheels or for the no name wheels for 200 Dollar/Euro. I'll have a look at it. ♥