Making Wargame Hills That Look Amazing: Terrain for Miniature Gaming, Flames of War, Team Yankee

[@LesDempseySoloLesta]

You make a great point about the compromise between flat enough for the miniatures, but rounded enough to look natural. I think that's why so many of us go to a layered rock esthetic.

[@MiniatureLandscapeHobbies]

Good thought. it is a constant battle to get utility and good looks to combine on the tabletop.

[@SoloLlamameDiego]

The way you looked to the camera till 2:01 was hypnotising :V

[@pst5345]

modularflat hill tiles have their merit. If you want maximum efficiancy they can be used for many natural obstacles. If you like distinct landscape singular crafted realistic hills are more appealing. Great video. My crafting store sells mini canvases in shape of clouds and simple circles. I will use them for a few of your hills.

[@MiniatureLandscapeHobbies]

That is a good idea for making bases. Strangely after 30 years I have never used modular tile terrain. Making a table in this style is in my plans for the future however...

[@danepatterson8107]

I've got a bunch of green-scour pad hedges in construction right now, thanks to your video, now I want to try to tackle hills. You do a great job explaining things, and I'm happy to be a new subscriber.

[@MiniatureLandscapeHobbies]

Thanks I appreciate that. I have a couple videos covering hills you might want to check out.

[@CurrentKick]

This is awesome! I've wanted to start making my own terrain for a while. I got a text from my cousin this week "How interested are you in tabletop wargaming?" - little does he know, I've been painting minis for the past few years, haha. Mostly fantasy and sci-fi for me, but he's got a Flames of War starter set, and I'm game. Looking forward to digging into your channel this weekend and building some terrain. Maybe I'll throw it up on my channel when it's done (if it turns out well). Subscribed!

[@worldhistoryminiatureshous9757]

A nice tutorial. The result is effective . I keep some tips .

[@MiniatureLandscapeHobbies]

Glad to hear that. You have some cool builds on your channel. I have watched a few of your videos. I intend to sit down and take a closer look next week to try to incorporate some of your techniques into my work.

[@worldhistoryminiatureshous9757]

@@MiniatureLandscapeHobbies I am pleased with that . It is kind of view . Me also like to upgrade my work from learning new techniques from other hobbyists .

[@zxcvbob]

@MiniatureLandscapeHobbies: I've coated my hill with PVA and sand, and spray-primed it flat black. I'm kinda new to drybrushing, and I'll be using artists' acrylic tube paints for this. Do I need to thin those down a little?

[@MiniatureLandscapeHobbies]

No. Dry brush paints are better thick. Do not thin them unless absolutely necessary. The trick is not in the paint consistency but how lightly you handle the brush.

[@zxcvbob]

" ...but how lightly you handle the brush." Oh, crap. I'm in trouble then! 😆 (thanks for the tip, I need to practice my technique on some scraps and some horrible stone walls that I made and will never use)

[@CraftyRic]

Always great stuff, thanks for all you do!

[@MiniatureLandscapeHobbies]

Thanks I appreciate that!

[@danepatterson8107]

Can you explain the step with the rubbing alcohol again? What does it mean to 'break the surface tension' and then why do you go back over it with glue that you just broke up with alcohol? It seems like you're making work for yourself.

[@MiniatureLandscapeHobbies]

The surface tension is what holds a liquid in a “clump”. Like a bead of water. Rubbing alcohol counteracts this so the glue flows freely between the grains of the grit. The second layer of glue over top reinforces it. You could possibly do without it but I would rather have a strong a bond than too little.

[@RockinL7BuckingBulls]

Nice tips thank you.

[@MiniatureLandscapeHobbies]

My pleasure!

[@zxcvbob]

These look amazing! I really like the one with the wrecked B-17, although a Stuka would be better. 😂 (I play the Americans in FoW) What I really came here to ask is what is the cardboard for at the bottom? Could you do the same thing with just a piece of 1 inch thick pink foamboard, (that's what I'll be starting with) or does it need the 2 layers of cardboard too? Thanks.

[@MiniatureLandscapeHobbies]

With the 1 inch foam it might be kind of hard to taper it to a good edge. Some people would use Masonite instead of cardboard which is a good option. This video gives you more info on the cardboard method: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fp_Jo6JpmdegjK8

[@zxcvbob]

@@MiniatureLandscapeHobbies I have found a new basing material that I like so-far. Cheap vinyl floor tiles. The thick industrial tiles are really easy to work with but might be too thick for small pieces (like 15mm infantry) but would be okay for things like hills and large buildings. The thin residential tiles are about perfect for anything, but harder to work with. I've put paper on the back of a peel-n-stick tile, sanded some of the gloss off the top and gesso'd it, and the dryback tiles don't need anything done if you use them shiny side down. Perhaps this will end in disaster; who knows😂 But it looks good so far. Of course floor tiles are not as cheap as cardboard. Another material I'm experimenting with for small terrain pieces (like bocage and fences) is one layer of standard cardboard; taper the edges with a hobby knife and then apply shellac. (real old fashioned shellac) You can then mash the corrugations shut while the shellac is wet, or wait til it dries and smooth the edge with spackle or plaster or water putty (etc) The problem here is the initial cost of a quart of shellac. I can't believe how expensive that stuff is now. But I was curious and had to try it. And it worked.

[@Mikedadof2]

What war gaming do you play

[@MiniatureLandscapeHobbies]

Flames of War, Team Yankee and 28mm Napoleonics.

[@sirvivor7835]

My gaming room now smells of cat pi55

[@MiniatureLandscapeHobbies]

The kitty litter is supposed to be clean!