Malawi 110 refitting the rear diff. Preamble for plan of attack Part 1

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Britannica Restorations Ltd
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[@Stephen-ou4sy]

Happy Easter from Queensland.... I'd be inclined to give the electronic calipers the old flotation test in the nearest river.

[@tonypacke6954]

I was thinking over next doors fence.

[@weaton25]

@@tonypacke6954 No that is no good he may find them and bung them back over.

[@anthonysookwah9083]

I look at his videos like it's a Netflix show 😅 . Kinda addictive

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Maybe I should put popcorn in the shop?!

[@anthonysookwah9083]

Haha the problem is, you know how easy it is to get a complete diff in the UK but the rest of the world can only dream of a 110 with zero backlash 😅

[@michaelevans5953]

That seal that you didn't have a big enough piece of tube for - looks like the size of a bean can.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Takes some knocking in though

[@rdflo6739]

Happy Easter Mike!! And sorting out axels is indeed klumbersome.. I think that word should be in the next Oxford dictionary!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=clumbersome

[@SalomaoFresco]

Hey Mike. Didn't know that diffs were so technical... I'll be watching the next video on that subject very carefully. Give my best to Mr. Jameson and Happy Easter. Ta ta

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Actually I scrapped the rest of the series as it became too complicated to work on with the axle in the vehicle - I struggled so I think you would too! So in the spring I will build an axle up on the bench which is the best and only way to do these right!

[@bobdufresne6294]

“£100 for a Salisbury axle” he says! I wish we could find them for that price in the states!

[@Leo-dk4we]

I actually find working on Diffs on the bench really therapeutic, especially during Lockdown. Apparently Ashcroft sold out of their Lockers last year, so there must be loads of weirdos like me out there.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

You will see in my next video that working on the diff in the vehicle is a hell of a job!

[@barryomahony4983]

Leather and paper? Should last about 10,000 miles. The finest in 1950's technology! Yep, I needed to replace a front diff once, due to an accident. Better and cheaper just to swap in a whole new axle.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

That's right Barry!

[@jameskerr5756]

That looks like a proper ballache. Note to self, don't mess around with diffs. And btw, my wife (from Bolton) thinks you sound like Fred Dibnah. Says it every time she hears your voice. Told her you're from the North East. Close but no cig.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

lol! Born in Northallerton!

[@gazzafloss]

Mike, no point in using those "boilermakers shifting spanners", (digital vernier calipers), to do any serious measuring, there's no substitute for a set of micrometers.

[@tonypacke6954]

I was going to say that but you beat me to it.

[@AbelDoodeman]

mike, i didn't have this gear marking compound. to see how it's running first i tried a thick waterproof light blue grease i have. that was smearing too much. then i tried a couple of layers with a thick red permanent marker on degreased tooth. that worked perfect!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Good to know!

[@leighriley6277]

👍👍

[@yorkchris10]

The previous owner swapped rear To front the 3rd member on my LC. I needed a sleeve for the seal only on the "new" front.

[@simonrowlands7472]

Happy Easter Mike, intermediate shaft i had to shamfer the flat to the main diameter it acts like a cutting tool and sliced the oring in the case ,luckily bought more sets of orings ,hope this helps

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Thanks for the tip

[@bigm383]

I hope the Easter Bunny is good to you!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Well, still seems like Christmas here! Lot of snow still and -3c this morning!

[@bigm383]

@@BritannicaRestorations I doubt you’ll be doing an Easter Egg hunt!

[@harveysmith100]

"Clumbersome." Mike, I think you have invented a new word. Is it OK if I use that? Bloody fantastic. All cheap calipers burn through batteries. Some one did tell me why, but like most things, I can't remember.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Went to talk to JP this morning about calipers and he only uses Mitutoyo - he has micrometers, but always uses the Mitutoyo for general work - even when surface grinding - so I ordered one this morning, so thanks to all subscribers as it was 12x more than a regular caliper!

[@harveysmith100]

@@BritannicaRestorations Good choice Mike, they may be 12x the price but they will last 12x as long. Also the batteries in Mitutoyo don't go flat every five minutes. Always nice to have quality tools.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Yes JP reckoned 3 years and he uses the caliper all day every day

[@harveysmith100]

@@BritannicaRestorations I saw you making a guest appearance on Ludy's channel. He is learning slowly. He has a go doesn't he. Good lad.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Yes I filmed it with a new small camera but the video was all washed out

[@SiCrewe]

It'll be dodgy sensors causing your vernier to read wrong. Sometimes you can clean the sensors to get them working again but they also have copper tracks etched into the measurements on the slide (they work in the same way an ABS sensor does) and eventually just give up the ghost. Back when I was young and eager I spent about £100 on a Mitotoyo Vernier and then cried when it stopped working. These days I buy 'em 2 at a time off ebay for £10 and chuck them away when they start playing up.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Just ordered a Mitutoyo caliper on the advice of JP at the machine shop - that is all he uses for general work - even surface grinding - like the height block he made

[@tonypacke6954]

@@BritannicaRestorations At least Mitutoyo are made in Japan and not Hang Chung Province. What about Starrett, their made in the US of A and may be cheaper to buy in Canadistan?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I was considering but importing from the US pushes the prices up here, so I bought from a Canadian company

[@vincentpoole7588]

Mike. That's why my suggestion last month was to chuck the RRC LSE's 24 spline axles under 'Muriel from Malawi' ! Young Nate from "DirtLifestyle" would love that Salisbury axle for his D2 ? V.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Try finding those axles here!

[@vincentpoole7588]

@@BritannicaRestorations Mike. It's like the full hour spent this morning robbing a set of front brake pads off the '93 RRC project to fit into my daily mista ! Spare parts are now taking 39 weeks via sea freight from the UK to Downunder, since a bunch of Dirka Dirka's managed to park a 400m cruiser across a canal. Is '95 Donor RRC CountyLWB still at your vast Jamieson's workshop in Quebec ? V

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Yes the RRC is still here but if you recall the rear axle casing was so rotten you could hold the diff from the outside

[@mattluszczak8095]

Hey Mike I recently removed 300tdi due to squeezing upon applying clutch. Upon engine removal I found that the thrust bearing was melted and seized? I'm prob going to change slave and master-maybe they the cylinders are gummy inside . Or maybe the clutch wasnt adjusted and was slowly rotating or something.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

This is typical of drivers using the clutch pedal as a foot rest or a badly adjusted master cylinder putting slight pressure on the clutch and burning out the bearing which melts the carrier

[@nickboylen6873]

Mike, you can setup the pinion shimming without worrying about its preload - you only need the collapsible spacer fitted once you’re setting the preload, so don’t waste them and your time by fitting one while setting the shims and mesh. You should find that the existing shims are fine and that you don’t need to adjust them for the new bearings as bearing tolerances are very tight and you’re not replacing any other parts. It all depends on whether someone has changed the shims after using non-original spec bearings on a previous repair.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Yes this is what I wanted to check. But the problem was it was very difficult to check under the vehicle - I see why the LR manual states remove the axle - see next video I scrubbed all of the videos I did yesterday as it was too complicated to show how to do it

[@nickboylen6873]

It’s not an easy job, partly because of the weight of the parts, partly because of access when the axle is still fitted. But having the axle off the vehicle makes setting the preload very difficult - the spacer needs at least 250’lbs before it starts crushing, and the more it crushes, the higher the required torque. Trying to tighten that nut with the axle on the floor is going to have you chasing the axle around the workshop! It really needs to be fitted and a tool like the one you made wedged against chassis or floor. I change the diff and pinion from a 109 into a 110 axle and back, and the mesh pattern was good without changing a single shim, despite the change of not only individual pinions, diff centre and ring gear, but the ratios. You need to change those damaged pinion bearings, but I recommend you change the bearings but leave the shims in the housing and then fit the pinion (without seal and crush sleeve), set the rough preload, then fit the diff and check the pattern. Only start messing about with the depth gauges and block if the mesh is off, but I’ll wager a glass of whiskey it’s bang on! 😉. If it is, then you can whip the drive flange off, take the diff centre out, fit the spacer and seal, then set the preload and throw the other bits back in.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Yes you can make a jig pretty easy to hold the flange to the axle tube - I am not concerned about this I seem to recall the Dana 60 had a tube and shim on the pinion to get the preload a much better idea Tooth pattern was good but the sun and planet gears are clunky

[@nickboylen6873]

If the diff centre is suspect, then you might try talking the owner into a locking diff, or better for driving on snowy roads, an ATB like the Eaton Trutrac. It’ll be more expensive than repairing the Salisbury, but perhaps not wildly, given shipping costs, and the results are worth it.

[@grahamturner2469]

Hello Mike, A bit off the subject of the rear diff, I looked at your videos on speedo cables. I have replaced mine in my series 3 several and wondered if the two piece cables would be any better and if they would fit my Series 3 SWB.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I suppose you could do

[@grahamturner2469]

@@BritannicaRestorations Thank you Mike.

[@Defender110SLO]

Where to buy higbt gage. Cheets Mike 🥃

[@darrenleeson3771]

Very interesting video Mike. I have a really worn front diff nearly 1/4 of a turn to my shame......I am a bit short of cash at the moment with lockdowns and moving house. So I did think of seeing if I could get hold of a low mileage front diff... However I have a Defender 300tdi and I am unsure if all the diffs are the same with regards to ratios and drive shaft splines and what fits what...Is there any chance you could shed some light on this??....Many thanks

[@BritannicaRestorations]

You can guarantee all vehicles fitted with 300Tdi onwards were similar front diffs so were Range Rover classics and Discovery front and rear so plenty to chose from - which is why I do not rebuild them

[@darrenleeson3771]

@@BritannicaRestorations Thank you Mike for clearing that up so quickly.

[@jonathanstewart9161]

Hi Mike, I followed your instructions on another video of rear diff pinion oil seal. Its leaking again. breather is clear and yeah I guess its been through a few water crossings and mud but wondering what I should do different this time? I have a new crush sleeve and waiting for a new seal. I have changed this seal 3 times before and it always seems to leak again. thoughts? Thanks for your videos, they are brilliant

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Hmm - something's not right Did you verify the flange has no marks in it where the seal runs? Did you fit the leather or rubber seal? Rubber seal is better as I find the leather seals are of poor quality - but the rubber seal should be retro fitted with the matching flange as the dirt slinger can be an issue (It interferes with the lip of the seal) www.lrworkshop.com/parts/STC4457 - up to 1998 www.lrworkshop.com/parts/STC4403 from 1999 Did you fit the paper seal behind the seal itself?

[@jonathanstewart9161]

@@BritannicaRestorations yes I used a new flange for the newer rubber seal and used the paper seal too. Its got me stumped!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Are you sure it is the seal and not oil creeping along the shaft? Maybe dry both parts off before fitting the flange and a smear of ATF on the shaft?

[@jonathanstewart9161]

@@BritannicaRestorations I ordered another seal, washer and nut. I'm going to investigate a bit further because there is a droning noise somewhere when on freeway at 110kph

[@mattluszczak8095]

Hey Mike you still doing the fork mod. Possibly need one.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Yes they are in the shop see if this code still works GRY784PQ

[@mattluszczak8095]

@@BritannicaRestorations ok

[@faisalal-osaimi3856]

if I'm changing the seal .. do I have to change the spacer? and how much do I tight it to?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

workshop-manuals.com/landrover/defender300tdi/rear_axle_and_final_drive/assemble/page_328/

[@faisalal-osaimi3856]

@@BritannicaRestorations thanks that’s very helpful 🤩🙌 unfortunately the only seals available are the letter/metal ones 🤦‍♂️😂

[@melgregory7339]

Has engineeer's blue turned into yellow grease ? Must be Chinese !

[@Samjuthan]

Hey Mike, not too sure when you're zeroing the caliper if you are completely closing the jaws first before you press the zero button. Be sure to close the jaws completely, then zero the unit and see if that makes a difference. Regards, Dhan from Trinidad.

[@andicog]

They don't call those calipers a 'verynear' for nothing, Mike, after your GM conversion some time back I wondered had you ever considered doing an electric conversion on a Defender? Would make a great series of videos and much as I love my 300tdi the electric option would be great, most conversions here in the UK are silly money but with your practical approach and Yorkshire thrift it could be a winner. Here's a converted Ausie lightweight for your thoughts kzbin.info/www/bejne/inXKpqFti5p7mJY

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Sorry but I am not an electric convert A few have done electric Land Rovers to much publicity, but the range is so bad

[@andicog]

@@BritannicaRestorations I have to say, I'm not a great fan of the whole EV thing, how will you charge one from a terraced house or a flat ? I also think they're dirtier than is being made out, but quite like the idea of a cheapish EV defender or series for short trips. 👍