Building a Big Dust Collector Blower #1

[@CogentConsult]

Marius, your videos are full of integrity because you point out your own mistakes, which makes you more real to us, your viewers, and adds to your integrity. Because of this, we trust your opinions more and are more open to your design suggestions.

[@salleman112]

I love the imagination and ingenuity. I also love it when non-commercial woodworkers (like myself) spend 75% of their time making things for the shop. Great video. Keep it up.

[@alericjohansen6775]

I don't build anything with wood personally, but I admire people like you who do. Also, I loved seeing the outtakes.

[@wxfield]

Hi Marius..when my shop was building wooden impellers in the 80's..we would epoxy coat the vanes to help with surface wear. We found the vanes would wear and eventually self destruct uncoated. We also put an hour meter on each impeller head so that we could schedule periodic tear-downs and inspections. Just a couple ideas for you.

[@MariusHornberger]

My fins have three coats of oil based polyurethane on them.

[@wxfield]

Remember too these vanes are constantly being blasted with particulate, you really want something that is going to stand up to that. Often the alkyd poly's have very low durometer and brinell hardness numbers. We experimented with wood vanes at first and they always failed for us. We later made a clamping mold where we heated PVC sheet materials in a small oven to get them soft, clamped them in the mold and when they cooled we had some very consistently shaped and long-wearing vanes. Good luck with the new blower! The project looks amazing.

[@MaxMakerChannel]

Marius Hornberger which brand?

[@이석재-j7l]

wxfield

[@nr3405]

How thick would the sheets be for a design like this? And how tall are the fins?

[@MaxMakerChannel]

You made the biggest impeller on youtube for the smallest workshop. : D

[@BrassLock]

Even Rolls Royce had a steep learning curve with blown turbine blades on aircraft engines as I recall. Good Onya for persisting with it, teaching yourself and us heaps in the process.

[@neilphilip2320]

Brilliant! May I say for your age your ingenuity is very impressive - ignore the trolls and keep the vids coming - a 65 year old learning loads from you!

[@Iskelderon]

Thanks for sharing this. Learning from iterations that didn't work out can often be even more helpful than learning from ones that did.

[@CemlynJones1952]

Luv the outtakes, shows the human side and shows your maturity that you can expose the flaws as well. Great stuff. Enjoying your videos.

[@NBCRGraphicDesign]

Please...... Do NOT use the steel key you made. Keystock is designed to be sacrificial..... to be the weak link..... and prevent further damage to more critical components..... Namely your impeller or your motor shaft. Here in the U.S. keystock is generally a zinc alloy and can be bought to size or in a 12" stick. Nice video. Very well orchestrated. Keep up the great work.

[@dankasprick1801]

Dave Potts True, but that is for a steel shaft to a steel pulley or gear. his pulley/gear/blower is wood...it is the sacrificial peice.

[@StefanGotteswinter]

If we buy keystock here its C45 - Carbon steel with .45% carbon. Same for keys that you buy seperately, those are also carbonsteel.

[@Jkirk3279]

The key won’t break before the wood does, and when the wood breaks someone is going to lose an eye.

[@jackloynes22]

William Carr how do you suppose someone will lose an eye?

[@phantomflows0]

how, he has got a metal case?

[@JustinWimpey]

Very well done. For future reference, as a long time engineer dealing with fans, the commercial ones usually have an odd number of blades because they are easier to balance perfectly than the ones with an even number of blades. Thanks for sharing!

[@budnotu]

I like that you are not intimidated by your mistakes. You are a very good craftsman.

[@Jkirk3279]

Oh, sure. Good assembly skills. The problem is trusting plywood with THREE HORSEPOWER.

[@AZskylite]

Whoa, you open a drawer and..whoosh..a truly monster tool emerges. Crazy.

[@alcidesmonteiro7581]

Marius, I really like your channel. Please don´t change your videos style, keep DIY culture ALIVE!! Hugs from Brasil!

[@matthiaswandel]

I think it's still taller than it needs to be. Look at the insides of a water pump, those impellers are really thin. Your hose only has so much area for air to flow, no need to make that so much bigger in the blower.

[@StingerPhilip]

I like your take on dust collection Matthias. Just make a small one for every tool you have and then you wouldn't need a giant motor.

[@TheMetalButcher]

This is totally more fun though.

[@gominosensei2008]

it helps a lot for experimentation to have one of those nifty airborne particle meters....

[@southernnutcase]

hey Matthias, i love watching both your and Marius's videos and i do honestly hate to be "that guy" but i suddenly had one of those OMG i have relevant information, training, and knowledge that would be helpful here! .. don't hate me and yes i would love to have in-depth conversations on this stuff because i am a huge nerd , but working in HVAC as well as doing instillation for central vacuum systems, for as long as i have i can understand why he used the larger impeller. yes there is only so much space for air to flow in the hose but you also have to overcome the shear distance OF piping and hosing. the distance of plumbing requires higher pressure of suction to have similar performance at the end of the tube as well as the beginning of the tube. water is non-compressible compared to air. so 1 gallon of water, at 3 psi will come out the end of a 30 foot tube the same as a 3 foot tube due to the non loss of compression of water. however when dealing with flowing air, every joint, transition, tubing change, etc will add "length" to the pipe and since air IS compressible it takes higher pressure as well as higher rate of flow needed to get the same (example) 300 CFM out of the tube at the end of the 20 foot run as in the begging of the piping chase. doing general calculations for the size and shape of the plumbing, its rated CFM, etc just like the big dust collector its going to need a hefty impeller. the other thing i noticed with the small dust collectors rather than the larger systems is hes running the collectors like a vacuum cleaner system, where the dust is not entering the impeller but is needed to remain fairly strong even on the outflow to overcome the thick air filters, so in addition to high inlet suction it will need a higher outlet pressure unlike say your large shop collector which is only using a fiber bag rather than those paper type filters.

[@LiRaye]

oh hi Matthias, I love your videos. I really afraid that the loading of these leaves is too heavy. it only built by estimation without measurement. But the workmanship is undeniably very good.

[@konmckonner7286]

Marius, You really are a genius engineer with so many clever ideas about the complicated machines (tools and jigs), that you design and build. Your use of materials outside their intended use and limits, is rather Impressive and quite inventive ... perhaps the best part of your work. Unfortunately Internet has given a platform to many unqualified and oblivious people who have no business to critique any ones work and life, but regrettably they do. I am a retired industrial control engineer and I see in you the making of a great inventer. Kudos on the work that you do ... entertaining and fun to watch. ☮

[@ALVHUN]

Excellent craftsmanship! I am a tool and die maker by trade, in business for over 30 years creating many incredible works art with steel dies. From F18 fighter jet parts to toothpick sorting machine. Here is a brain teaser. I had to cut make 100,000 keepers for the Canadian military. In order to be unbeatable in price, I devised a machine to cut 1.875" OD brass tube with .040" wall thickness to .375" lengths, WITHOUT scrap! These rings were then shaped into the keeper that looked like a dog bone. I challenge any engineer to come up with such a scrapless tube cutting device!

[@mikecourteau6567]

I love the fact you explain why things will work or not or why citing Newton's law for example. Keep doing it. Great videos. Don't change a thing.

[@woodsprout]

I'm very happy you explained the reason for using the 9mm plywood. I love the design process.

[@TC-bz9dz]

hey Marius...the video was not too long..you are always interesting...keep up the good work....also the people who said MDF would not hold up have never used it...I've been a trim carpenter cabinet builder for 25 yrs plus....I've been using MDF for 20 years....used right it will hold up....you did a fine job both builds of the blower!!!!! keep it up....love your work!!

[@danielmagana563]

Nice to see other young dudes proficient with tools and woodworking/machining. Its a dying skillset.

[@clindust]

the last one in "outtakes" - classy !! ))) thanks a lot, Marius, for massive efforts you put in your videos! the part of "why" - is really appreciated

[@pierdolio]

Something you might consider, though it is more work, is to round the leading edge of each fin and to taper the trailing edge. Through observation on small balsa gliders I've found that this improves efficiency greatly. It may contribute to lower noise or less power required or greater volume of air being moved.

[@BaconSniffer578]

Love your videos. You and Matthias are my favourite builder KZbinrs.

[@Happy_Free_Time]

Heck, even if this explodes, those blades are just beautiful. Never thought of using wood for things like this but you are making an art out of it. Thanks for sharing!

[@jajanaoko]

I don't even understand what he's building, but I love watching it. Keep up the awesome work!

[@michaelanderson654]

I appreciate you sharing your adventure. Some people just want to feel smart and have nothing useful to say so they say un-useful things that make them sound dumber. Keep up your experiments.

[@dankasprick1801]

"Not based on calculations, more on gut feel." You are becoming a more seasoned engineer every day! Good build so far! (The other blower was good as well!)

[@maximthemagnificent]

As an engineer, I refer to this as a SWAG: Scientific Wild Ass Guess.

[@seanward39]

Forget the negative comments, those armchair critics cant even make coffee. I admire your drive and when you decided to do something, you stuck to your idea and seen the project thru. it did work but like all lessons in life you have learned a lot from what you have achieved. Keep doing what your doing.

[@julianlech8505]

It amazes me how much you have accomplished. Hopefully it all works properly in the end.

[@xaiano794]

Helpful tip for bent plywood - it is possible to make your own ply using a form and then gluing the layers together - time consuming but you can get virtually any shape you want. Just have a reverse form on the top and clamp the whole thing tightly.

[@gregevans6741]

I really like all your attention to detail. This was a fast 16 minutes, excellent job !

[@stephenborain4666]

Its experiments like this and brains that explore - that allows humans to have cool stuff - keep progressing and cool video..big like my man

[@MrTako-kf6on]

I really like the longer video and additional detail. Top quality video Marius!

[@gordonreddy9069]

I would add that with a variable frequency drive you could tune your design to the highest possible efficiency with that blower wheel and motor. Again great work!

[@chrissscottt]

Love the way those fins turned out. Accidental art.

[@robertsalazar2770]

Out takes are the best part! Great job my young friend!

[@titaniumapple1]

That gear puller is GENIUS, I've never seen one of those before! Great vid!

[@laukinis1990]

Marius, when i saw ur joy when it fit together from first try i saw the thing only people who do woodworking feels :D

[@kevinbowker2385]

Excellent video and absolutely entertaining. It's funny that I don't notice you rambling until you point it out! Very funny pointing out the critics. There's never a short supply! Good stuff, Sir!

[@TheeModerateGamer]

Dude much love for your videos! the outtakes are a great bonus at the end!!!

[@AndrewLatham]

Thank you Marius, another great video! Come for the fun and stay for the out takes.

[@shookings]

I like your process of thinking and learning, as well as your... HOLY SHIT, THATS A BIG FLANGE REMOVER ...as well as your process of showing and discussing your learning experiences. Your content and channel are great. Haters gonna hate.

[@Mr2at]

Absolute work of art. Bravo.

[@alexfuerst]

It´s a really good idea to use a block of plywood tu build the vanes. Love it! Nice build! I look forward to the second part.

[@johnbouttell5827]

Great video Matthias. Don't worry about the people who criticize. Whatever you do somebody will find fault. I would recommend that you disregard the negative comments and move on. Of course, you know this. Keep up the good work.

[@MariusHornberger]

Thanks. Though I'd prefer if you call me Marius

[@herkboy]

I don't care if its working, or if it will break up. I only care that you are trying and totally respect that. Keep up :)

[@BillHantzopoulos]

Little by little this is becoming one of my favorite YT channels. You're pretty damn funny, not to mention smart as hell. Great job. I love the outtakes.

[@Wul-Lop]

Great, awesome DIY (do-it-yourself) demonstration video. Your video informs & inspires people around the world. Thank... & thanks.

[@howder1951]

Elegant solution on the vanes Marius, they came out beautiful and look extremely durable. Some of my vey best Captain obvious statements are; That will never work!, or ; That's the first thing you check! Best response; I know that! (especially if it is total BS.) Enjoyable video, keep it up, cheers! Like you, I have made things before I understand the engineering, in that case it is easier to make a prototype with its shortcomings and call it the Mark 1, the improved model will then become the Mark 2 and so forth .

[@hectoraracena7076]

your work is incredible, clean design, beautiful made...congrats!!! ( by the way, a long video with all the descriptions and details is not a problem! is a pleasure ) you have a real teacher spirit, please go on.

[@Don.Challenger]

Very informative design build video. At 13:00 glued up that way you would have a nice vase.

[@lovefist208]

we judge you on your failures not you success's , bold project. very interesting to watch...thankyou

[@intjonmiller]

Of course it was too tight, because something something plywood. You should always something something or you'll end up something something every time.

[@Pete.G]

Man, I hate it when my projects something something ruins the something something! If only I had listened to someone someone about something something everything would be something (something)! (the word something has stopped having meaning after writing the above)

[@intjonmiller]

Pete G I don't know. It seems to me that we have perfectly articulated the usefulness of the word. :)

[@aserta]

Plywood expands pretty quickly with woodglue. That's why you leave a small chamfer on stuff like this.

[@laukinis1990]

thnakns ill know in future

[@guitstikkustoms4448]

Marius, I enjoy your video's immensely, so much wisdom from one so young. One point you may want to consider with this build, BALANCE. It might not have been a bad idea to "Blueprint" the veins by getting exact measurements and weights on each individual vein so that you could either balance them to a close tolerance or offset the heavier ones against the lighter ones.

[@MariusHornberger]

Will be covered in the next video.

[@kaden56]

Love it! I can't wait to build one with my CNC one day. The plywood worked great for the fins!

[@jamesfwilliamson]

Thank you for including the motor spec!

[@MariusHornberger]

You're welcome

[@jamesfwilliamson]

I'm currently looking for a suitable motor to build my own. Tempted to try stainless or aluminium fins instead of ply if you can't think of any reason not to.

[@MariusHornberger]

+James Williamson how to join them toa wooden disk?

[@jamesfwilliamson]

Ahhh yes. Epoxy might work but wood-glue-wood is probably better.

[@juweinert]

You should consider using a motor soft starter, when you're still in planing phase! It eliminates the high-torque shock and thus mechanical stress on all components.

[@yummboy2]

You will never receive any criticisms from me, as you are far smarter than I. In fact, I have learned a great deal watching your various videos, even when you make a mistake it is all part of the learning process. Besides, I think you are brilliant and I appreciate all you share.

[@WeekendWarrior92]

at 8:25 I got hypnotised by the spinning wheel to the point I didn't even hear what you said and I needed to watch this bit again just to listen to you :D

[@JEKMills]

Great video as always! I have to express my doubts about the plywood fins though. Cutting them the way you have means that the grain is on average at about 45 degrees to the force. I can see this causing the laminations to strip apart after sometime. No way to know for sure without trying it though.

[@garciwa]

Be open minded people this kid is awesome... keep up the good work man.

[@recless8667]

I know I'm super late to the party, but a couple of things: Sound intensity for impellers is largely controlled by RPM. If you need X m³/min and a given impeller needs to run at Y RPM, an larger or more efficient impeller could be run at Y/2 RPM, which will reduce the volume logarithmically; even though you're running at half the RPM, you could be at a quarter of the dB. Impeller efficiency can be greatly improved through proper ducting and skirting; the longer the air channel, the more uniform the pressure waves are and therefore the less pumping loss you have through resistance. Long story short: Make a larger impeller, with ducting and shrouds, and reduce the RPM off of the motor until you reach the minimum acceptable m³/min (CFM).

[@Jay2525Jay]

A very complex project, also an awesome project. Well done as always. I have noticed (as you have) the trolls know how to make everything perfectly. Funny how we never get to see there postings. I guess they are to busy trolling. I look forward to the completed project. Thanks. Keep up the great work and thank you for sharing your skills and knowledge with us.

[@Jay2525Jay]

digitalradiohacker I understand your point of view. I would be sad if that happens, I don't have the skills and knowledge to make videos. But I do enjoy videos and I try to offer words of encouragement, to those who are able to make videos. As my parents said, if you can't anything nice, don't say anything at all.

[@Jkirk3279]

“the trolls know how to make everything perfectly.” People who have made stupid mistakes can only TELL you when you’re about to make your own. We can’t STOP you from doing it. “Experience is the worst teacher; she gives the test before you learn the lesson."

[@Jay2525Jay]

William Carr Thank you for the quote.

[@TwiggehTV]

William Carr yeah but in this case nobody told him when he was about to make his mistakes, only _after_. Point being that people werent trying to be helpful, just smug..

[@Evocatorum]

Great work! I believe someone mentioned this below, but I think it bears re-mentioning: prime numbers of fins. I believe that the harmonic being generated by your six fin design is due to the even number of fins in the wheel. Unfortunately, the greater your precision in assembly, the more likely it is to be truly symmetrical. This, in turn, creates a wheel that generates a symmetrical pressure wave and the discomfort felt in particular locations in the room is, most likely, due to those spots being acoustic nodes (points of stacked frequency). Current fanwheel manufacturers use an odd numbers of fins (9, 11, 13, etc) and for the fanwheel size that you are using, I think 9 would be the most appropriate. Also, it's been mentioned (both in comments and in the video) that the use of a VFD would allow for a slow start up (which is true). If you do ever decide to use one, you MUST either put in a shaft grounding kit or replace the bearings with ceramic bearings to prevent conduction from the stator to the housing. If neither are done, the bearings will eventually fail and destroy the motor. Amazing job!

[@BrockHenry]

Regarding the thickness/weight tradeoff for the second plate, you could also consider a mix of thicknesses. Use the 12mm plywood, but route away material in less crucial areas. Just something I thought of and thought I'd mention.

[@mr.dahliaking.202]

12:54 *dude* I literally felt a cold shake go trough my heart as I saw you going over the blade like that

[@lars-sorensen]

Nothing is wrong with long videos if they are made by you 😃

[@legrandschweinkopf9136]

What the...?! I sit and watch this video at 4 am and then I don't get to see the finished thing? I need to see that NOW!! :)

[@RenaissancManEng]

Excellent video (as usual)! Don't forget to balance the impeller (like Matthias did in his video). I also agree with Matthias on the thickness...

[@MariusHornberger]

+Lance Bledsoe I did the balancing in the next video

[@RenaissancManEng]

OK sorry I spoke too soon! Where do you live? I have been to Germany a number of times - Munich, Frankfurt, Hannover. I'm in the computer biz and used to go to Hannover fair every year and my company had it's German Office in Munich, so I've been to Munich a lot! I LOVE Munich... I can't remember meeting any of the German people who were not extremely nice and welcoming of Americans! October Fest in Munich was a real hoot! :-) Keep up all the GREAT videos!

[@xserv4real]

Loving the details in your thoughts explained, very neat.

[@akkudakkupl]

For a blower a soft-start is a good idea, less mechanical shock at startup. And the power goes up at the square of RPM for a blower so you don't need a VFD for constant torque (unless you want to have closed loop control, but you most probably don't).

[@oneandy2]

*converts to freedom units* Holy crap. 18"ish impeller?!? Impressive. Most impressive.

[@jamesdownes1974]

Another great video. I really appreciate the detail you go in to, I learn so much from you.

[@entrapment55]

howdy, yes the soft starts most likely are pricey. I was thinking that with some careful searches say with " triac or scr" that you could find some diy circuits. I'm guessing that it would cost you about 30 us dollars. keep up the good work. just love your videos

[@durtyd00d]

Everytime something goes wrong KZbin suddenly full of experts on the subject.

[@johnandshelly82]

Great out takes, looking forward to part 2.

[@JusstyteN]

As an electrican i recommend you to use soft starter for this motor or use a controller that has soft starting option. With propeler this big you are facing a load that is too big for wood.

[@eherlitz]

Excellent build Marius, I hope this blower will be more durable!

[@dave_ecclectic]

A bandsaw trick for cutting curved pieces like you did for the fins is to place the offcut the thickness away from the blade. Then the curved block will be guided by the curved off cut and you can quite easily cut the remaining curved parts with little concentration.

[@gaunerchen1729]

Du könntest dir eigentlich ganz einfach eine automatische Stern - Dreieck Anlaufschaltung bauen. Dazu brauchst du eigentlich nur 2 Schütze und ein Zeitrelaise für die Stern-Dreieck Umschaltung. Das würde auch deinem Motor und den Rotor auf Dauer gut tun. Aber ich weiß, man muss schon einen faible für Elektrik haben, um so etwas praktisch und einfacher zu finden, als es momentan ist. ;) Achso ganz vergessen: Echt gutes Video, mach weiter so!

[@Blouwing14]

Naja das ganz ohne anhnung von et zu bauen ist mit gewissem risiko verbunden, besonders bei knapp 400V die dir entgegen kommen können ^^

[@juweinert]

Selber bauen ja. Allerdings gibt es solche Controller auch fertig aufgebaut für die 35mm Hutschiene in jedem guten Elektrogeschäft (wenn nicht, im Internet) für recht schmales Geld. Hat den Vorteil, dass der Rotor filigraner aufgebaut werden kann, ohne in die Luft zu fliegen ;)

[@gaunerchen1729]

Die Controller, die ich gefunden habe, kosten >200€. Kannst du mir mal ein Beispiel zeigen? Ein Zeitrelaise kostet ca. 40€, ein einfaches Schütz auch. Aber am günstigsten wäre immernoch ein Handschalter.

[@Danstasuik2010]

A recommendation for the strength of wood... The grain should always be running in the same direction, so your idea with the plywood is great, it might not be as strong as a bent lamination of plywood. i would recommend getting a rubber plywood specifically for this. (Just look up "rubber plywood" on google or ask your local plywood dealer) and one of the fins you made as a mold. Thanks for posting, great video. ( also adding little blocks on either side of the fins would increase the strength of the stop groove you made.)

[@TheGemmaster22]

i would reduce the size of that cut out on the wheel for the blades to fit in, That is pretty much the whole structure of that wheel and it could send all the blades flying at once. I suggest making 2 small slots per fan rather than one big one. Those blades are so smooth, Lovely!

[@valentinalexandru8890]

hello Marius. a few things you can make to improve this design: give the blades an airfoil shape; the tube from the cyclone should enter the through the housing of the impeller almost passing the bottom plate, so air gets in blades and not between the housing and the bottom plate. there are more things : like making a "tongue" near the exit duct and offsetting the impeller in the housing. anyway , thank you for the videos. I appreciate all the work !

[@OllyParryJones]

Another great video. I had no idea that 3 phase power was so common in Europe. In the UK, it's not allowed in homes and only at commercial or industrial sites. I've seen plenty of people run 3 phase machines off single phase using a step down converter. A benefit of that, apparently, is that you can introduce variable speed easily.

[@MariusHornberger]

Yeah, but these units are very expensive. A variable frequency drive for me is probably cheaper.

[@ronmazzella8025]

Hind site is 20/20 - ignore the negative comments and keep up the good work. Your videos work and shop are great.

[@perandren9179]

One of your best videos to date!

[@HolzMichel]

Marius, not bad so far, there are few things that need to be pointed out: the fins are a little too long for the diameter of the impeller wheel. you can safely reduce them by about one third to half of what they are now. if the noise is still an issue then try installing an uneven number of the to cut down on the harmonics. 9 of them will divide your circle into 40 degree slices. also, the approach of the incoming air needs to be a little more curved. it's going at 90 degrees, which creates cavitation and again creating a lot of noise and huge re-circulation losses. if the top disc rises up as a cone to the inlet of the volute you will get a smoother change of direction of your air flow. the hub should also be concave so the incoming air can slip across it. with the convex shape it is now you're creating a vortex around the periphery of the hub and again creating re-circulation losses, harmonics and noise.. and finally you should do a dynamic balance of the impeller on the motor. you can simply use a drill to remove material along the periphery of the impeller in the heavy spots. just spin the impeller and allow it to come to rest. mark the spot and repeat 3 or 4 times. if the impeller comes to rest more than twice in the same spot you know the wheel is out of balance.

[@badw01f23]

Wow, something KZbin recomend me that i actually enjoy. Subscribed!

[@blickberg8404]

Hi Marius, the new impeller looks great. Regarding minimizing your motor startup torque perhaps it might not be too expensive to add a primary resistor circuit instead of going with a VFD. A simpler approach could be realized with two sets of 3 pole switches similar to what you are already using. But since you are clever you can probably figure out how to do it with a 3 pole relay and home made pressure switch.

[@aadri_rg]

I love your videos, fun and engineering all in one video

[@Itslvle]

Definitely keep explaining why you do things the way you do them.

[@stefanvanreeth5719]

Commenting on the comments was hilarious. Of course you had to know that everybody is an expert on everything, except the original creator. Especially about things they never made themselves and even more so on things they couldn't even dream up on a good day. Evidently, of course :D Don't let the keyboard warriors get to you, Marius. Your talent is over 9000 and these types can only aspire to be jealous of it.

[@MariusHornberger]

But It's fun making fun of them.

[@BigAdam2050]

To quote Quindon Tarver; Remember compliments you receive, forget the insults If you succeed in doing this, tell me how

[@cjhification]

Big_Adam_2050 I think the quote is from Mary Schmich, and was popularised by the song everybody's free (to wear sunscreen).

[@BigAdam2050]

Well ... bugger. I only know it from the song.

[@tawfeekibrahim339]

Big_Adam_2050 8 yea his age cc gcģfqqqz

[@stephenphilp1380]

Big_Adam_2050 love the detail.

[@paulsanders4929]

And of course everyone who is an "expert" and criticises also leaves links to their videos don't they....oh no because they are too busy posting stupid comments to do anything useful. Great videos and mistakes are what we learn from.

[@thewolfin]

I keep clicking on your videos confusing you with Matthias Wandel. Never disappoints though, you're both extremely skilled builders. A treat to watch!

[@lukejohnson2854]

Love the combination of woodworking, precise and simple designs (how very German) with great humor (I didn't know Germans were this funny). Great troll smashing too.

[@hannamand]

I'm not sure you won't have problems again in the future. The fins are depending on the glue joints again, not making use of the long fibers of the wood. I'd recommend using polycarbonate, heated it should bend easily into your grooves.

[@keiththrelkeld5890]

I love your vids and your acomplishments. you seem to very good work with what you have and what I really like is that you dont mind making fun of yourself, and that makes these vids even more enjoyable. After all, we ALL make errors. keep up the good work

[@stephenphilp1380]

Love the detail you include.

[@chillinator]

Interesting build, Marius. A couple of suggestions for materials you might want to look at: For your hub, Phenolic or Bakelite might have also been suitable - a bit harder than wood, but still workable with woodworking tools. For the vanes, you could have also used the kerf-bending technique, or, a type of plywood designed for bending around curves - sometimes called "Wiggle-Wood". For glue, if you've never used polyurethane glue, I'd highly recommend it (Gorilla Glue is the best IMO) - I've almost completely abandoned aliphatic resins except for biscuit joints. A tool you might also find useful for drilling holes perfectly aligned with hardware - or other holes - is a set of Vix Bits. Thanks for sharing :)

[@lierdakil]

Okay, I'm necroposting a bit, but once upon a time I had a job related to designing turbines and centrifugal compressors (for aerospace if it matters). It was a bit of a learning experience for me, and if I had to name one particular takeaway, I would say this: *making turbines with even number of fins is always a bad idea* . There's a simple reason for that: the more symmetries you have in your system, the more resonant frequencies the system would have. And you want to avoid resonance at all costs, since it leads to structural failure. So for turbine designs, it's usually best to use prime number of fins (2, 3, 5, 7, 11, 13, 17, 19, 23, 29, 31, etc), since that introduces only one symmetry (rotary n-fold, where n is the number of fins). Any other option would introduce at least three (e.g. 21-fin design would have 21-fold, 7-fold and 3-fold rotary symmetries, each corresponding to its own resonant frequency). Using *even* number of fins is especially bad, since it introduces *mirror* symmetries in addition to rotary symmetries. Just wanted to share that in case it might be helpful to someone reading.