Masterclass Resin Printing (MRP) 3 - Support Base or Flat model

[@Mannistheorion]

That corner only support is such a genius trick. Thank you so much!

[@wangdennys]

@@Mannistheorion make sure put enough

[@eddiexx]

Dennys, please do not stop sharing your superb observations and conclusions. You are the best, and im sure ive seen every 3d print channel on youtube 🙂

[@wangdennys]

Thank you, please help share the words.

[@stephankleen556]

Short and on point. Perfect video format.

[@wangdennys]

Honestly I dont know how to make the video longer. LOL

[@retromodernart4426]

@@wangdennys Good! 😀👍

[@wangdennys]

@@retromodernart4426 🤣🤣🤣

[@chpunisher2005]

@@wangdennys set the recording speed to 0.5 and also talk SUPER slow. Problem solved!

[@wangdennys]

Did i talk too fast?

[@Rook0759]

Best 3d print tutorial on the web 🙂 So simple and helpful. I've spent 10x the minutes watching long vids that barely related to any factors other than what they use for how they do things. Whilst failing to show such a perfect and simple example and explanation, the way you did in under 3min. Sub'd/liked 👍👍

[@ateriblemoveonyou]

Yes, i am a beginer in SLA and that help me a lot Thx

[@karlh6692]

I usually do 30degrees in x and 30 degrees in y. This allows the new layers to build without sagging. I auto support with about 10mm distances and then add extras at the start point and the 2 main build edges.

[@wangdennys]

Thank you for sharing.

[@Artmesa]

By going taller, you can also fit more on your build plate.

[@wangdennys]

@@Artmesa yep, agree.

[@thepgo666]

Amazing video, straight to the point and helped me with my exact problem. Thank you very much!

[@zedabyu]

wow, very helpful video. thanks for sharing!

[@wangdennys]

Thank you

[@YerroPhunder]

this is exactly wut i needed for a few of the models ive been wanting to pring with straight edges! thank you

[@wangdennys]

Welcome

[@zebmaxwell7979]

Subbed! Great videos, quick and to the point.

[@wangdennys]

thank you

[@LomaT97Cool]

thank you very much, i was a bit scared that my prints would always not match when cut into pieces and printed, but now they will

[@wangdennys]

@@LomaT97Cool but remember. It takes experience.

[@LomaT97Cool]

@@wangdennys Yes of course :) but I reprinted the parts of a model I previously cut into pieces, and now they are almost flat :) so not bad for a first try

[@DevilsWings]

Thank you alot, i had this issue and was confused why it always bend. Will try this out on my next print!

[@CraigKillmar]

I am learning so much

[@NeoIsrafil]

I recommend adding a few center supports at least, otherwise you CAN get sag as the resin cures depending on how fast youve got your printer going. I run mine right up against the edge of how fast it hardens, and mostly print abslike unless theres nothing structural about the print. (Art for example). This has the layer drying just as it is pulled off the plate, but makes for very low cycle time and fast as hell prints.

[@wangdennys]

It doesnt happen to the base i print in the video. Because all of my printer run on moderate speed using tsmc. But yes on larger object i suggest to put some support on the center to prevent it sunking from shrinkage

[@erospangolit1338]

Does it work on large flat bases? or only small and medium? I have that doubt

[@J3DTech]

Works great on large bases, been doing this for years on large objects.

[@wangdennys]

Yes it works on all bases. But i will make more video and another video specifically for large base.

[@retromodernart4426]

Yet another great video, thank you!

[@wangdennys]

Thank you

[@J3DTech]

Great video, get the word out!

[@wangdennys]

Thank you

[@wojakov]

huh, this seems like a good solution to my problem, thx i will try it out.

[@o0Takeno0o]

Thank you for your great Videos

[@wangdennys]

Thank you

[@jamqdlaty]

Why are the ones supported only on the edges not sinking in the middle?

[@wangdennys]

Your question contains the answer 😁

[@jamqdlaty]

@@wangdennys I guess I'm too dumb to get it

[@wangdennys]

@@jamqdlaty too much supports in the center could cause the middle to sunk because they got pull by the shrinking force of the support around the center.

[@karlosss1868]

This helps greatlt! Thank you.

[@wangdennys]

Thank you

[@MatthewSemones]

Thank you for the information Mr. Wang!

[@GIRAFLASH2]

When making a test print, should it be supported on the base or with supports? I'm starting, the tests rest on the base but the corners rise up, curving the print🤙

[@Blixizm]

New to resin printing. Why do we angle and support the flat surface, instead of printing flat on the build plate?

[@wangdennys]

To reduce cross section area and reduce peeling force.

[@Blixizm]

@@wangdennys thank you!

[@DingoPaintsMinis]

Good job

[@Gromic2k]

I don´t understand why people dont directly print on the buildplate. I usually add a 0.1mm beveled base for easier removal, and then go for it. Yes it can have a slight elephants foot, but it´s not visible because its under the beveled part.

[@wangdennys]

Not all base or flat object can be print directly on plate. Because there are infinite shape and sizes. So no harm with having more knowledge right?

[@retromodernart4426]

There are many cases in functional prints, printed flat on the build plate, where some higher layers of the print need to be supported, the principles Dennys Wang showed here work great for that, too. Here's an example, consider a 200mm tall part, starting with a circle with a center hole in it, flat on the build plate, then 4 shafts concentric to (attached to the edges of) that circle rise 50mm with another circle with a center hole in it, and so on until the top. This method Mr. Wang showed is essential and works great for things like that. Note: The reason one would do a part like this in this way optimally (flat on the build plate) is so that all of the circles and the holes in the center will be perfectly round and of the correct dimensions - when circles or holes are printed at an angle, they can become distorted due to cure-through and/or blooming, and is more complex to correct for.

[@RotaFury]

Would this also apply for box like shapes?? Trying to print some holders for boardgames pieces but they keep warping.

[@huss03]

I'm new to printing, but after watching this video, it seems to me that if this is the known and correct way to arrange the supports, then why isn't the auto-support function automatically programmed to default to this?

[@wangdennys]

No idea why

[@spork861]

Only supporting the edges gives me anxiety, I would imagine that the main object would rip off from the supports.

[@wangdennys]

I also get the anxiety. LOL

[@petsworld2294]

How about big parts? I have one big fully cylinder. Like R.10x8 cm. I couldn't solve this. They always print crookedly.

[@wangdennys]

@@petsworld2294 if it has opening on one end Make sure the opening face down and tilt a bit. Then just support the opening edge. I have other similar video that print cup, you can check that one, about suction.

[@Utilisateur-02]

Hello ! do you cure before you remove support ? For keep the structure rigid

[@wangdennys]

i often cure it first in this case

[@Utilisateur-02]

​@@wangdennys thanks ! indeed that's great

[@dalsbury1979]

Why does the middle not require support?

[@wangdennys]

the edge supports are enough to keep the middle self support

[@1337FLINT.]

Hello, i've got 1:64 scale hot wheels rims, should i print it flat or give it 100° rotation like you do on this video? the base models is cylinder. Thanks in advance

[@wangdennys]

Send it to me I will do live supporting tonight

[@1337FLINT.]

@@wangdennys I don't think i can give it to you tonight, i'm not home yet. Hope there is similar case like me so i can watch how you put the support on the live

[@wangdennys]

@@1337FLINT. Okay

[@cedricg.9260]

What about the center ? No deformation at all ? If it is real, it is really a game changer for me 😮😮

[@wangdennys]

What center? I check with the steel ruler and everything seems straight.

[@劉祐銘-o7m]

Thank you for the tips !

[@St0ne6reaker]

Hi, thx for your suggesion. I have a similar problem about my prints edges and corners. I cant get straith edges and corners. My prints edges and corners are curved, so the parts of the prints which have multiple pieces and sould be assembled, wouldnt fit each other. I will try your this suggession but do you have any other direct one about my issue?

[@noviceartisan]

Thanks dude, super good video i will share it well on the forums it's perfect, um, one thing.... Where's (MRP) 2? lol

[@wangdennys]

It is for member and patron only. But i assure you it wont affect your support result. Just minor setting for advance support setting for support to be more neat.

[@ateriblemoveonyou]

First of all Thanks for all the Videos! Is this with every Flat based objekt possible, also when they are a thicker than yours?

[@wangdennys]

@@ateriblemoveonyou yes If thicker, add more anchor just in case

[@ateriblemoveonyou]

@@wangdennys i guess you mean also more on the edge, Thx for this Quick Reply

[@suharsh96]

how did you decide on the tilt angle?

[@skmer4704]

Nice, Thans

[@jysibert]

Thank you for this tip!

[@Daan87423]

Thank you! What angles do you recommend using?

[@wangdennys]

In the video, the model angle is 10° on x and y axis.

[@ankursingh8839]

hi denny, i am facing issues of layer shift and my whole model shifts in y axis... can you please help me out

[@vision3690]

Did you level correctly?

[@ZeldadexZD]

Thank you master, saludos

[@genin69]

yeah i tried this and it does not work with a model that weighs around 300grams. had a complete failure..

[@wangdennys]

My friend printed tombstone almost full size mega 8k build volume. About 1.5kg materials. He printed fine. There are alot of factors as to why a print fail. Print seeting, prientation, support size, also user experience.

[@genin69]

@@wangdennys what I had meant was. Printing with that thin line of supports only along the edge with a heavy print wilp never work. I have to fill mine about 75% density to get it 2 work

[@wangdennys]

@@genin69 it works for me when printing big diorama base on mega 8k. Just need experience. You could use some 0.6 support tip as anchors.

[@genin69]

@@wangdennys i have an object with a flat bottom and some small detail on top for a mold. Its 17cm x 12cm and 2.5cm height. Only way ive had a succesfull print on my mighty 8k is at 35 degree angle with supports on heavy at 75% infill. So ur saying if I have bigger anchors and thicket supports ill be able to print that only lining the edges?

[@wangdennys]

@@genin69 yes Curious for the the object. I might be able to do it on next thursday live session

[@retromodernart4426]

Also, could you please say what printer and what resin you used, those prints look like they have superior surface and detail!

[@wangdennys]

Printer is Mighty 8k

[@erickcandanedo3210]

what the hell?? LOL.. you only suported the edges on the square and the center printer fine? wow.. didnt expected that. interesting.

[@wangdennys]

Yep, it is possible for that small base.

[@whynotanyting]

This feels like a trivial problem to solve, yes this will take more resin to create, but I'd much rather have a 99% chance of getting a correctly perfect printed object than printing many suboptimal prints that will end up in the trash anyways. Technically reducing waste by making sure the final product is as requested.

[@pedro8769]

You should receive a salary from the 3D printing community

[@scaleartsg]

i need supports to my life. bisa om?

[@wangdennys]

Maksudnya om?

[@UzLooKsiZ]

How can I contact you? Can you give me your contact or email?

[@wangdennys]

@@UzLooKsiZ what for?

[@UzLooKsiZ]

@@wangdennys Can you set a certain amount of support for stl models?