MEGA SIZE Gundam RX-78-2 Part 5: Removing Seam Lines

[@dukekipington193]

This is the best way to do this even on the smaller parts, get everything in place and leave a small gap in the armor, apply the glue, then squeeze, everyone else is applying the glue and then trying to put the piece on, as a complete beginner to removing seam lines this is so much easier! THANK YOU!

[@gurufoxx]

As a lazy modeller, I always try to show the easiest possible way to do stuff ^_^

[@michealknight6003]

Mel, would you do custom scribing lines on this Mega size?

[@gurufoxx]

I don't know who Mel is, but yes, it's an option, why not? More detail is never a bad thing :)

[@morganaluthor]

years later i still look back to this vid as i once again got back into building model kits. Great vid :)

[@gurufoxx]

Thanks! I'm happy it's useful ^_^

[@ilikejazz8070]

thank goodness you have short nails! have been looking for tutorials but all I have been finding are people with grossly long fingernails

[@gurufoxx]

ha ha I like to keep the things you have to see all the way though reasonably clean and tidy ^_^

[@ilikejazz8070]

@@gurufoxx good to know

[@sintin9419]

How about the head? Do u remove the seam line on the head? In fact, how to decide which seam line I have to remove?

[@gurufoxx]

On this build I did not remove the seam line because I didn't want to harm any of the raised details that it went through. Generally, I will remove a seam line if it will not be too complex to do so. Basically, if the seam line goes down a piece with no raised or recessed detail, then filing should be easy. But if a seam runs through something like a raised detail, or an intake grille, or something that will be impossble to sand or clean up afterwards, then I don't fix the seam. If the seam can be made to look like a panel line (or is just not actually visible) then that is always easier :)

[@adof7257]

how do you remove the seamlines on surfaces that are hard to reach with files, sanding sticks and sandpaper?

[@gurufoxx]

Sometimes you have to use a super-tiny bit of sandpaper, or a knife, but sometimes there are just seams that you have no choice but to leave :(

[@totopesce]

Great video, can this be done if you are not painting later?

[@gurufoxx]

+totopesce Thanks! If you are not painting you can use the same technique, but you'll just have a lot more sanding and refining to do to end up with seamless shiny plastic that looks untouched. You would need to keep sanding with progressively finer and finer sandpaper/sticks until all the sanding marks were gone and only shiny plastic was left ^_^

[@totopesce]

thanks for the reply will try when I start a new model. Great vid

[@gurufoxx]

Thanks :) Make sure to try it out on a cheapy model first ^_^

[@benlim2912]

If you're not painting, the cement will age with a yellowish color over time and leave a line. Consider a clear coat spray with UV protection to help prevent yellowing.

[@bee-beargaming]

Thanks for the help. The seam line wasn't completely removed before. Now I know add more glue to the top.

[@gurufoxx]

Np probs, glad I could help ^_^

[@gamingwitharealg9752]

Question. Once I glue it together how do I get it back on my gundam leg

[@gurufoxx]

It depends on the kit. In this case, the knee joint and ankle joints slide into the upper and lower legs via a large peg so the leg parts can be assembled and glued together first without the knee or ankle inserted. For other gunpla where this is not an option you would have to look at either building a fixed pose with glued joints, or doing what is called a "C-joint modification" if you wanted to retain poseability.

[@gunplaboi7622]

I think I've watched this about five times now and I'm excited to finally try removing seams on my next kit.

[@gurufoxx]

Go for it! you might find sprue goo easier though, i cover that in one of the Eagle Transporter build videos, so you should check that out too ^_^

[@vaderkid08]

Enjoy your videos! I'm new to detailing and I attempted a version of your method. Didn't use the thin cement... I also didn't prime before I did this method... was unsure if you did or not. I used a basic modeling glue for plastic and it sort of started eating deep pits into the plastic piece.... :| anyways, I'm trying to figure out where I went wrong. Did i need to prime first? was it the glue I used/did i use to much? Thanks for the vids!

[@gurufoxx]

+Vaderkid08 Thanks :) You've entered a fun world of fiddling and frustration that ultimately leads to satisfying results - stick with it! Don' worry about priming before glueing stuff - it actually makes no difference. If you glue a primed piece together in most cases the primer is removed anyway during gluing and sanding, so there's no point priming first unless the specific build order requires it. I don't know which glue you have used, but ideally for this method you want a plastic welding cement, like Tamiya Thin, that actually melts and welds the plastic together (rather than just bonding it) so that effectively when you squeeze the gloop out of the seam, you are back-filling it with liquid plastic. Once it's dry it gives a super-tough bond (because the pieces are sanded together, not just bonded together) and can be sanded back to a smooth finish. It sounds like perhaps you were a little too handy with the glue, if it has started pitting the plastic as it is softening and metling the plastic. Using a thin cement you don't really need to use much at all. It may not completely fill a seam, and if that happens then you can go in with a thicker traditional glue just to catch any little gaps, let that dry and then sand it back. Or, if you prefer, sometimes what I will do is seal the seam with the thin first, then go back over with a little CA glue (superglue) to catch any pits or gaps, and then once that has all dried, sand it back. You need to basically make a bead of something hard that covers the seam that you can then sand back to a flat surface. Also make sure whatever glue you use is left to set fully for 24 hours before you sand it, or that may also cause pits, gaps and chuicks to come out (and get messy). Alternatively alternatively, the more traditional seam-filling method is to not use glue at all but to use fillers or a putty in the same way: glue the parts together, then go over the seam with a little filler or putty, let it dry and sand back. Once all your filling is done, then you can start thinking about priming. With your little pits I would focus first on getting everything glued and squished ass best you can, and then you can attack any little dimples with tiny blobs of CA glue or filler that you can sand back to a flat surface. All is not lost! Don't lose hope, it can take practice, and even I screw up seam filling every now and then ^_^ With gunpla, it can get tricky - there are times when I will have to fully prime and paint a piece, then glue and sand it, and then go back and clean up the sanded paint with a touch-up coat - a good example of this is the outermost shoulder armour on the Wing Gundam, where the top bits were halves with a seam down the middle. I couldn't leave them unpainted because I had to have the parts below them painted before the top bit was glued, so I had to paint them, build it, fill the seam, and then go back and carefully repaint the sanded areas. So, always try to plan the order you will do things is and know that you may have to mix it up a little to make sure that whatever process you use it the most straightforward method - no sense making extra work for yourself!

[@vaderkid08]

+Modelmaking Guru Thanks! Second attempt was much more successful!! I used ALOT less glue(thick and a different brand) and I lightly sanded the inside of the panels. This time I got a nice little bead that sanded very nicely! Thanks again for your tips and advice!

[@gurufoxx]

YAY! No worries, my pleasure, enjoy!

[@mgphyothant]

May I know exact grid number for the sanding pack.

[@gurufoxx]

Sadly I have no idea as the UMP and Flory ones never have the grit marked on them :( They vary from bear-ass rough to baby-butt smooth ^_^

[@zuxx00]

Can you still separate those pieces again or do you need to cut through the seams?

[@gurufoxx]

They are glued, they will not come apart again. But thanks to the way joints on this model go together (the knees and ankles just slot into the leg) there is no need to separate them anyway.

[@stompingfreak8980]

Lighting, two side lights, left and right, one above(towards the back) for shadow reduction. Then one at, or near the front to fill in dark casts. Over all simple studio lighting.

[@gurufoxx]

+Stomping Freak I know all that it's more a case of I only have limited places to put my lights so I am a bit stuck for options :(

[@stompingfreak8980]

Are you using a top light? Is there any way you can put a lamp high up behind you? That would fill in the front over cast. Plus what bulbs are you using? On my base build, the reason the colour balance is ok, is that I picked up some SAD natural light bulbs. Low watts(so cheap to run), gives out light of a 150 watt. Clean white light. It when I got it set up right, was the same as 500k, which is like filming midday in the middle of a good summers day(remember those). I know your the master builder, but I do have a degree in film making. HND photography. Just trying to pass on some of my knowledge. Didn't mean to offend.

[@gurufoxx]

Hey, no offense taken amigo, I'm glad of the info :) I have two natural light LED flat panel lights sort of over the top/to the rear of the work area (one left, on right) and a big movey-aroundy natural light ring craft light (with the big magnifiying lens in the middle) on an anglepoise arm that I can move around as needed. There's nowhere else for me to mount or stand lights, sadly. Other than that I also have a three-spot LED corner light (like the big sticky up corner of the living room type of thing) which is off to the left and would give some ambient light but sadly the walls are a light yellow colour - ambient light FAIL. I basically need to cover those walls with white card or plastic or something. Another issue is is the overhead camera mounting position is attached to the anglepoise light arm, so that really limits when that light is on or off. My lighting seems to be okay most of the time, it's just that as I am filming on an iPhone it doesn't cope well with a massive white piece in the middle of the shot. It also doesn't do well with light things as you saw on the Freedom Gundam pictures. Basically my setup sucks, but I'm not getting any expensive camera or lighting equipment anytime soon, have to make do with what I have. My father would be spinning in his grave furiously - he was a lighting cameraman for 40 years, lol ^_^

[@stompingfreak8980]

+Modelmaking Guru have you tried, bear with me, sticking some tin foil to a big bit of cardboard, to refract the light back into the centre of your fame. Plus it should defuse some of the over head lighting. For best wall cover hang up black curtains. Really. White will cast everywhere.

[@gurufoxx]

+Stomping Freak Hmm, I like that idea and you know why? Because it sounds cheap ^_^ Where would the board best be placed?

[@Gelzzky]

I was waiting for you to sand that part right below the seam line you sanded down, how do you sand that without losing the details?

[@gurufoxx]

I can't remember now, but it it is a small fiddly area, sometimes you just have to go in carefully with a tiny piece of sanding paper :)

[@Sバイザー]

40年前の合わせ目消しは接着後に瞬間接着剤を使用して線消しをしていたけどそれは塗装が前提での話で今の時代は成形色を活かし塗装をしない場合では溶剤で溶かして処理すると言う発想だと気付きました。

[@davidfreeze8176]

Do you have any trouble with paint not sticking where the glue has been applied?

[@gurufoxx]

+David Freeze Nope! I apply a primer coat before any painting - the primer etches into the plastic and gives the paint something to grip onto :)

[@jamesronald7352]

I was thinking. Is it okay if u just gonna remove the seam lines and not paint them at all? Im just new at at this so i could really need some advice :)

[@gurufoxx]

You can use this method perfectly well on unpainted kits that will remain unpainted, although for everything except white you may be left with a slight visible trace where the clear glue fills the gap. For coloured plastic, you may be better making sprue goo out of the sprue that the coloured pieces came on, so that you are filling the plastic with the same plastic. You can see how to use sprue goo here from about the 22:55 minute mark: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eZ_FeWuHmrh6gKs

[@Keeferd]

can I use a similar method to this to repair recessed nub marks due to plastic stress from cutting it off the runner if I don't plan on painting?

[@gurufoxx]

+Keith VonBernewitz It's tough if you are not painting. Although this method is a great solution, it has it's limits - that little dimple I had in the back of the leg wouldn't go away - adding new glue on top I think simply softened the glue beneath and so the little depression would not go away. To fix it I had to put a dod of CA glue (superglue) on top that would harden over the depression without eating into it. Downside was it was visible as a blotch, even after sanding, until I primed over it , because CA glue does not always dry clear. Adding more normal glue *may* work but in my case it didn't. The only real way to avoid recesses from stress marks (if you are not painting) is to cut the pieces off the sprue super-carefully and make sure the sprue cutters are not right alongside the plastic part - leave a long nub that you can trim away with a sharp blade. This is the one reason I no longer make gunpla unpainted - it's just not worth the stress, especially with black plastic parts which are THE WORST for obvious nub marks (and the reason I refuse to touch kits with mekki-plated or titanium finishes). Of course, you could always hide nub marks with some basic weathering - if you are not painting fully, you could still perhaps use Gundam Markers to add little chips or battle damage here and there and perhaps disguise the pit as a ding :)

[@Keeferd]

+Modelmaking Guru Lol yea I have been using Gundam markers to try to cover it up, but I plan on gunk washing and multiple matte/gloss coats. If that doesn't cover it up, I'll turn it into battle damage :)

[@gurufoxx]

Now you see why I hate not weathering models - it looks much better weathered, and weathering can hide many sins :)

[@lhenordonez545]

How about colored parts, can i still apply these processes?

[@gurufoxx]

Yep, although if you are not actually painting the model it can have some problems, such as occasionally clear glue filling a gap rather than melted plastic, so you end up with a little clear spot here and there in the former seam line. But it may get hidden once you matt topcoat the model, and if you are painting, it's not a problem as it all gets covered up with primer and paint.

[@arcane3877]

Ah, how do you get the inner frame back into the armor parts on MG/RG kits? and if it is supposed to be like that, do you just mask off the inner frame if you need to spray paint it??

[@gurufoxx]

Luckily, I either paint the frame parts before assembly or once the frame is built. MG kits invariably allow the armour to be assembled around the frame so in most cases all your frame painting can be done before the armour goes on. In the case of this Mega Size build, the few frame parts simply slotted into the arm or leg parts so could be painted separately before they were inserted (and the leg and arm parts could be assembled and seam-filled before the inner frame went in)

[@arcane3877]

Modelmaking Guru so it would only be on this Mega Size that I could fill in seam lines and then install the inner frame afterwards. whereas on a Master Grade or real grade, I would have to do it with the Armor parts already assembled? my concern is only that I'd have to do this with the frame as a whole piece, and worrying that the cement will leak out into parts of the frame, and freezing it up! this is my worst fear about doing this on my real grade kits

[@arcane3877]

Modelmaking Guru please let me know if this is the case! Thank you!

[@gurufoxx]

Most Master Grade and Real Grade kits are designed so that seam lines are minimal, and on many MG kits the seam lines are actually disguised as panel lines, so you can just paint up the frame and slap the armour on without having to fill anything. HG kits are actually the worst for seams as they typically have seams down the legs and arms. With those, if the joints have to be inside the leg or arms before they are put together, you have to carry out some modification in many cases, with what is called a C-Cut, where you cut away part of the socket that a peg will go into so that it can be inserted from above after the leg or arm parts are sealed. TBH I wouldn't worry about it with MG or RG kits. In most MG kits, all you have to fill is usually the head if it has a seam down the middle, and weapons. I have only ever built MG and MS kits, and one HG that was fully painted, and have never yet had to do a C-Cut. IN the rare cases that you might want to fill a seam on armour with the inner frame alrady installed, as long as you are careful and use glues like Tamiya Extra Thin when putting the parts together, it is unlikely you would clog up the frame. And it is best not to worry about it - if you should screw something up, then it is only one of many models you will make, just make it a fixed-pose gunpla and move on to the next one, learning as you go :)

[@arcane3877]

Thank you for all that! Really appreciate all the help, thank you so much!!

[@GurtMcDirt]

Dang Origin Bugu's backpack... big ol' gaps. I picked up the extra thin quick dry glue but I'm picking up some thicker stuff for some future builds.

[@gurufoxx]

Or you could make some Sprue Goo with Extra Thin and leftover plaplate or bits of sprue ^_^

[@GurtMcDirt]

Modelmaking Guru - Sprue Goo, eh? Just clip some thin bits of the corresponding sprue color, brew it up with the extra thin, and... inhale Or is there a step I missed? I will try that, thanks mang! (maybe not the inhale part)

[@gurufoxx]

@@GurtMcDirt ha ha, yep, pretty much correct (apart from the inhale bit lol). Sprue or plaplate will do fine - add a bit, give it a few mins, see how thick it is, then add more. You want it to be thick enough that it will not drip off of the brush. I show it in this video from 19:54 - kzbin.info/www/bejne/e2Pde52vrpZ9apY

[@thelastuchiha419]

Hello all the way from florida i plan on buying this kit but the origin mg 1/100 edition and i was wondering can all these techniques be used for that model? And also the list of material you used, will greatly appreciate it

[@gurufoxx]

Hi there! Yes, all the techniques used on this model can be used on ANY model. I was actually following pretty much exactly the steps laid out in the book "In Combat - Painting Mecha" by Ammo, and in that book Mig actually weathers the MG RX-78-2 ver 3.0. As for materials used, I do go through them in the films during the whole series as I work ( I do list the weathering products specifically in the link below) , or you can simply grab a copy of the book which has lovely step-by-step guides and lists which will tell you what I used during the weathering process. If you go to my channel and click on Playlists you can see all the episodes in this build series in order (unlike most KZbinrs, I insist on making sure ever series has a playlist for easy access). For the weathering products, which were all from Ammo by Mig Jimenez, check here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/e4i4aJynjrtlZpo

[@thelastuchiha419]

Modelmaking Guru wow thanks a lot, now I'm having difficulties finding starship filth here in the states or anywhere online, is there like a certain mix to make starship filth or a new color close to it?

[@infinite0hacker447]

Modelmaking Guru hmm what about a 1/550 model size hmmm

[@luisa.sanchez5064]

Hello, nice vid, it gave me confident to do the same, but i have a concern what about colored plastic ? the sanding will still work? or i will need to paint it thanks!

[@gurufoxx]

With coloured plastic it depends on the glue. You may still see evidence of where the seam was as any tiny gaps in the melted plastic may just look clear. Make sure plenty of plastic goop comes out if the gap!

[@gurufoxx]

Unless you paint of course , in which case it doesn’t matter :)

[@stasiuwong]

So the big dimple was caused by the cement fusing the plastic, which is a sort-of destructive process. Why choose this over using filler putty, especially if the part will be primed and painted?

[@gurufoxx]

Dimpling like that are rare and more often than not will not happen. The reason I prefer to use glue to fill slight gaps are 1) it is faster and more efficient and you will get glue splooging out anyway during assembly, may as well use it; 2) you are filling a gap with the kit's own melted polystyrene which both fills the gap AND reinforces the bond; 3) the filled area can also be sanded, filed or scribed much better than a fillered or puttied gap because you will be sanding, filing or scribing actual polystyrene, not filler; 4) most fillers shrink as they cure and you have to go and add more; 6) it's cheaper to use the glue you already have for small gaps and leave your expensive and fiddly-ass fillers for large gaps) ; 7) squishing glue is less destructive (filler can get real messy real fast and is a faff) .

[@stasiuwong]

@@gurufoxx 👍OK. It's just that your text in the video said you'd add more glue to fill the dimple, but I didn't see how effective it would be to fill a large area with a liquid.

[@gurufoxx]

@@stasiuwong Oh, okay, got you. I have no idea, I filmed this several years ago now...I would guess perhaps I would have used regular Tamiya glue, which would not melt the plastic, or CA glue. But I honestly can't remember. Nowadays I would just fill it with sprue goo ^_^

[@Skfkf1393a]

Where can I get or who makes the sanding sticks?

[@gurufoxx]

I use Ultimate Modelling Products sanding sticks, amongst some others (www.emodels.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=sanding+sticks ) but any sanding sponges will do, you can get them from model stores, online, or possibly eve craft stores. Even ladies' beauty shops sell various nail sanding and buffing sponges and sticks which can be really useful :)

[@archerwinmakes5534]

just curious, why don’t you use a filler? I’m trying out gunpla for the first time (coming from 1/48 aircraft kits).

[@gurufoxx]

Filler is fine, but sometimes it's faster and easier to glue and squish - much less work. I try and encourage paths of least resistance where possible ^_^

[@archerwinmakes5534]

thanks!

[@kongchho]

but how do you get the joints in there once you seal it?

[@gurufoxx]

With this kit, luckily all the inner frame parts pushed down into polycaps so it was not like a normal gunpla - they could be inserted (or pulled apart) afterwards with not alterations required, straight out of the box. On a normal kit, where you have pegs on either side that the armour pieces have to fit around, you would have to cut a channel out of polycaps or the plastic to be able to do the same thing (it's known as a "C-Cut").

[@OPCollector]

Why cant you just use the regular cement for the inside instead of the thin cement?

[@gurufoxx]

You can do, but most of what squishes out of the joint with be glue and not plastic. The thick cements do not dissolve the plastic anywhere near as much as the thin cements, and the aim is to fill the gap by melting the plastic quickly and squishing it out of the gap. Once it all dries you're left with a gap filled with polystyrene which can be drilled, sanded, scribed and worked as normal. With thicker cements, you'll only have glue squishing out of the gap, which is no good for being sanded, scribed or anything else and will not be as invisible :) Thicker cements will also give you a lot more goopy mess when squished, which may either ruin any fine detail near the join, or cause you to sand away any fine detail when cleaning up.

[@OPCollector]

@@gurufoxx You ever think about mixing the cement with the same plastic from the trees you cut the piece from? It will be the same color and plastic as the piece you're working on.

[@gurufoxx]

@@OPCollector Yep, that's called "sprue goo" and it's an old modeller's trick. To make sprue goo, you just need a thin and strong welding cement, like Tamiya Extra Thin. Take a pot, dump a WHOLE MESS of polystyrene in there - little bits of sprue, off cuts, whatever - and leave it for a half hour. The polystyrene will melt and you are left with the goo. When you apply it, the glue flashes away and leaves simply polystyrene filling a gap. I actually prefer sprue goo to fillers and putties because sprue goo is 100% sandable, carveable, scribeable etc. and has the same properties as the plastic around it. I explain more about sprue goo in my Eagle Transporter build, when I am assembling the command module :)

[@OPCollector]

@@gurufoxx Thank you! I will check out that video

[@gurufoxx]

@@OPCollector You're welcome :)

[@andieznutz6438]

do you have a Instagram or somewhere we can view all the gundams you have made (pictures)

[@gurufoxx]

+Andiez Nutz Nah, I keep meaning to set one up but I barely have enough time to update my own site, facebook and twitter etc :) I do have photo albums for many of my builds on my Facebook page, although not every single one is up there: facebook.com/modelmakingguru. I also have galleries on the website, although it need s updating with the Freedom and the Wing: www.modelmaking.guru/gallery.html

[@poormancollection4509]

after u done with the sim line..how u gonna put the inner frame in?

[@gurufoxx]

On this Mega Size kit, the knee joint slots into the lower leg and upper thigh like a giant peg, so the leg can be built and sealed and glued and then the joint simply pushed into the top of the leg and the bottom of the thigh. Same with the arms :)

[@poormancollection4509]

wow ..ok i try haha my kits havent reach still waitting for the order to arrive..

[@poormancollection4509]

thank q so much for the advices haha

[@gurufoxx]

No probs :)

[@grey790]

how does this work for an hg model kit because i got the 1/144 wing zero custom and would like to know more on what to need to detail it

[@davidfreeze8176]

You might want to try small paint brush to apply the cement.

[@gurufoxx]

+David Freeze The brush in the Extra Thin is okay for seam filling, for me, it's quite a fine brush so saves me wasting a real brush ^_^ Plus, I'm not trying to be super-neat at this stage ^_^

[@sub0sandwich32]

SUPER helpful man, thank you so much!

[@gurufoxx]

Yay! Glad it helped ^_^

[@srobertweiser]

How many times did you spill the extra-thin glue before you came up with the idea to fix a wider base to the bottom of the jar?

[@gurufoxx]

ALL the times! Actually, I stole the idea from skipperted when he showed it in one of his first videos :)

[@srobertweiser]

Great idea.

[@ayekami]

Can you use this on a colored piece? Will it ruin the color?

[@gurufoxx]

If you intend to prime and then paint the piece once the seam line is fixed, that it will be fine and the primer and paint will cover up any seam filling anyway. If you are not painting the gunpla though, it won't ruin the colour as using finer and finer sanding paper or sponges will bring the shine back to the plastic and in 99% of cases it will happily remove the seam line no problems. BUT I have found occasionally that sometimes you may get visible "gaps" in the filled seam, where glue has bubbled up but not had any plastic dissolved in it, so the gap is just clear glue and not oozed coloured plastic. It can be a bit hit and miss.It doesn't happen often but it can do every now and then. When I did the HG Geara Zulu build I didn't fill the seams on the leg for that reason (I wasn't painting the model).

[@ayekami]

Modelmaking Guru what if I don't want to paint it over, because I don't really have the tools for it. Will it be okay if I use your technique on a colored pieced? Like red/blue?

[@gurufoxx]

Like I say, it should be okay but there is always the chance of little visible spots where glue bubbled up without any plastic, so make sure to use a good amount of glue, give it a few seconds to solvate the plastic before you squish it together. You should be able to sand down to the level where it is all plastic and no seam. If you do get any clear sports, you can always touch those in with a Gundam marker or similar and this should hide them nicely once your final matt topcoat is on. But if you are not sure, just leave it :)

[@muning1227]

How the heck did you insert the inner frame for the leg if you already glued the armor??? 🤔

[@gurufoxx]

Ha ha, on this kit the joints just push down into a hole in the legs/arms so you can glue and paint the leg first.

[@muning1227]

@@gurufoxx haha, I see. Thanks for that. Cheers!

[@rubynickolls1974]

Super duper helpful! Thanks for making this! :D

[@gurufoxx]

Glad it was helpful!

[@maxgarda]

Can you still open that part?

[@gurufoxx]

+El Garda Do youmean the legs? No, once the seams are filled that sucker if glued shut :) Luckily the knee joint simply slots into the top and can be removed with the leg glued together (which makes life MUCH easier). Same with the arms and the elbow joints ^_^

[@maxgarda]

Thanks, it help a lot

[@gurufoxx]

No worries :)

[@Pepen_TerlanjurHobi]

I'm New for this video. I want to ask : what the minus, for do This Style ?

[@gurufoxx]

There is no minus, other than it takes a lot of time and patience, and you have a dirty, beaten looking mobile suit and the end :)

[@Pepen_TerlanjurHobi]

Ahh..i see, i'll try on leg and arms. Thx

[@ralphafroilan5852]

Can I use Super flue to fill those lines??

[@gurufoxx]

I assume you mean super glue? :) I do not recommend it, CA glue is brittle, can't easily be sanded or scribed without crumbling and will possibly break down over time. It's best to either use the glue to melt the plastic together and fill the gap, use a filler designed for the purpose or to make sprue goo (polystyrene dissolved in Tamiya Extra Thin glue, which can be brushed into a gap and leaves behind only polystyrene).

[@ralphafroilan5852]

@@gurufoxx Thank you for the advice. But, I found something on internet that he mix baby powder, and super glue to fill those gaps. Is it effective too?

[@gurufoxx]

@@ralphafroilan5852 That just makes the bond tougher, but it will still and and scribe poorly (the CA glue may cure harder than the plastic and this may cause you problems when trying to sand it smooth or when trying to re-scribe a panel line that the glue covered up). I t will work, but you will find it a lot more complicated adn a lot more work, and a lot more hit-and-miss with the results than just using the polystyrene glue you are already using ( I recommend Tamiya Extra Thin), or fillers, which are designed specifically for the purpose. Golden rule of modelmaking: never make something more complicated than it needs to be.

[@LynnDippel]

Great video.

[@gurufoxx]

+Lynn Dippel Thank you :)

[@billyslamboom1176]

wait... so how do you take this apart after to paint?

[@gurufoxx]

You don't. Luckily in this kit all the internal frame parts just slotted into the legs when they were assembled toegther, so it was possible to seal up the legs and arms and paint them up, and then attach the inner joints. On kits where this is not possible, you would have to carry out some modifications to create C-joints so that interior joints could be slotted in afterward.

[@opsimathics]

you did a great job

[@gurufoxx]

Thank you :)

[@Enlapanlima]

How do you sand the ones in the recessed part?

[@gurufoxx]

Unless you can get in there with a tiny piece of sandpaper, sometimes you just have to either leave those tiny recesses or, where possible, insert a tiny piece of plaplate to fill the recess and make it look flat ^_^

[@Enlapanlima]

@@gurufoxx Ah I see. And here I thought there's an easier way to do it. Thanks for the tip!

[@mailperson]

You show how to sand the easy parts, most people are capable of that, you should have video'd the hard parts.

[@gurufoxx]

True, good point. I tend to aim my stuff at beginners, and sanding the tricky bits is basically the same process. but I will keep that in mind for the future, thanks for the feedback :)

[@destinysterling9210]

that dimple is melted plastic from to much glue, more applications would melt it more . the super clue filled the gap because it doesnt melt plastic .

[@gurufoxx]

+Destiny Sterling Yeah, I figured there was a natural weak spot or thinner area of plastic there that the glue exposed and made worse, so I knew CA glue would simply fill it :) I don' normally use CA because it can be weak to torsional shock, but it should be fine in this little spot (it filled it nicely and sanded flush so all was well ^_^)

[@WAR10RDUNLEASHED]

Could one use this same process on a resin kit? I've just received my Zeta Bust full resin kit from Museigen Hobby, and it's my second model ever (#1 was 1/100 Sengoku Astray, built standard just to get an idea how fiddly it is).

[@gurufoxx]

Nope, if you mean filling seam lines and gaps, then on resin kits you will need to use fillers. The process depends on the glue melting the plastic and that doesn't happen with resin.

[@WAR10RDUNLEASHED]

Ok, thank you. I thought resin was a plastic lol, going to do a bit more research before I start working on it I think.

[@yatkk]

Thanks for your sharing ✨🙏🏻✨

[@gurufoxx]

You are welcome :)

[@stratton78ja]

Just watching this today 2/23/17.. and this is kinda like welding!!!

[@stratton78ja]

root pass (thin ca) cap pass (heavy ca) then blind!!!

[@gurufoxx]

Yep, pretty much :)

[@BytoGeekLab]

do super glue work???

[@gurufoxx]

Not for the initial gluing, you need a glue that melts the plastic so that what bubbles out of the seam is basically liquid plastic - that's what fills the gaps. Tamiya cement and Tamiya Extra Thin (and others) are welding cements that do just that, they melt the plastic and weld pieces together. Although once that is done you can cover over what remains with a bead superglue as a sort of filler to fill any little dinks and dimples that persist (or you could use filler putty).

[@BytoGeekLab]

would mind suggesting other brands of cement glue?? i saw tamiya cement glue and it's quite expensive

[@gurufoxx]

You could try Mr Hobby Mr. Cement S, which is apparently very similar. I can't vouch for other cements as I have always used Tamiya, and the Extra Thin is a well-known cement for seam-lining amongst gunpla builders (It's also the best cement for regular glue kits where there are many tiny parts). It's not the cheapest but is the best and will last you a lon time. Whatever you do use, you ideally need to make sure it is a plastic welding cement, not just an adhesive like CA. YOu could try something cheaper like Revell Contacta or Humbrol Poly cement, they may work. But Tamiya cements are the best ^_^

[@BytoGeekLab]

thank you so much for that info :D appriciate it :D

[@-zubzero]

Toby Manuguid o

[@snap_fit8686]

you forget to show how to deal with the one on the tiny groved area, those are the one hwo takes a lot of job. i leave my seam lines because i never enter any contest (lazy)

[@gurufoxx]

It was onl'y a quick overview really, but they were handled the same way, just with a REALLY small piece of sandpaper :)

[@letmarinda1978]

Guys can i us super glue

[@gurufoxx]

Well, not to assemble the model, as that is never a good idea. CA glue won't melt the plastic so won't bubble plastic up into the gap to fill it. However, you can use super glue/CA glue to fill little pits and dings where the seam line used to be once you have squished it with normal cement and sanded back. HOWEVER CA glue is brittle and not fantastically sandable. Although I didn't use any on this build, you might find it better to make some sprue goo - basically leftover bits of polystyrene or plaplate dumped in a bottle of Tamiya Extra Thin cement and left in there to dissolve into goop. If you get it thick enough, it becomes a great filler that when applied and the glue has evaporated, leaves only the plastic behind to fill the gap - so is totally sandable.

[@ryuujingunpla5394]

modelmaking guru: squishh Me: okay *squish the parts together* hnnng! Medelmaking guru: SQUISSSHHHHHH! Me: AAAAAAHHHHHH!!!! *cracked plastic noises* Me: :,v

[@gurufoxx]

I think perhaps to many squishes ^_^

[@ryuujingunpla5394]

Indeed xD And thank you modelmaking guru!

[@juanalvarado7794]

Funny who all These KZbinrs only show these in easy huge PG pieces. Let’s be realistic. 98% of us do HG kits. Show us then!

[@gurufoxx]

I just film whatever interests me at the time, tbh. And I did film some HG - there's a Buster and a Geara Zulu playlist if you go look, and I have a Kshatriya in my stash ^_^