MGB Differential Repair Part 2

[@headzeppelin83]

Well worth your time in uploading, filming and editing. This video will help more people than you thought it would, and will continue to do so. I needed a visual on replacing the axle seals only, this video did the trick. Thanks.

[@grahamdewey4727]

Thanks for these very helpful videos. I have now done both my cars, a GT and a Roadster, both with the fuel tank in place and found the job to be much easier the second time around. One oddity is that the new large shims on each side behind the driveshaft cogs were made of some sort of composite material on the Roadster which had worn badly, in fact one was missing altogether! On the GT these were copper and were hardly worn at all so I didn't replace them, just the two cupped planetary copper washers needed doing. In both cases the brand new larger shims were made of the same composite material, not sure if copper types are available but if they are I would recommend using them. By the way, no cat to keep me company but plenty of builder's tea!

[@LuizVicenteMiranda]

I own a '67 MGB Roadster (tube type axle) for almost 20 years. The clonk was common, but recently a gorgeous motor shop in my town, Rio de Janeiro, a very experimented team that works with race cars, high performance and classic ones. They disassembled the differential and re-assembled it a little bit other way round. They ordered some different steel thrust washers, other than those showed in the first video. The job was excellent and the clonk is no longer heared.

[@NZbird]

Just seen your video referenced on the MG Experience website - thank you so much! This job is on the maintenance schedule for this winter. Best regards, Geoff in NZ

[@Kieran46100]

thanks a million for your great demostration and all your time helping others, I´ve had this klonk in my diff for over 7 years now, but one of these days I will do it myself. Kieran from NRW Germany MGB roadster & Jag MK2

[@TheGreasemonkie]

many Thanks Mike! I did the job; video was a GREAT help. Axle now as new, no noises

[@ianactually]

Thanks for a very useful (and entertaining) couple of videos - saved me a bit of time with the pinion pin tip. My pin wasn't nearly as easy to extract or replace and had to leave it in the freezer for an hour. Took me a bit longer than you, but then again I still have a fuel tank, and the cat and I took way too many cuppa breaks to discuss my Heath Robinson bearing puller :)

[@mikeatyouttube]

Interesting. Thanks for the tips. I did wonder about greasing the bearing prior to reassembly but without guidance in the book I put it back just the way I found it. Good to know this greasing is what should be done.

[@mgb40v8]

Thanks for taking the time to put it on youtube, very imformative

[@mikeatyouttube]

@TheGreasemonkie You're welcome! Glad your project went well. Happy driving!

[@snowlothar45]

Two things. Use caution when using the bearing cap to press the bearing on. You can spring it enough that it wont seal on the bearing. Second the bearing and seal should be packed with grease prior to assembly even though it is lubed from the rear diff.

[@wilki61]

super clear thank you for taking the time really helpful

[@mikeatyouttube]

@glenn1253 try Moss Motors for the parts - they are really easy to get. The Hydraulic jack I got from HarborFreight tools. I bought that to make the EV conversion easier - it cost about $900 - but I've since used it a lot. Good luck with the MG fix!

[@mikeatyouttube]

@TOW4LESS1 I'm not sure which wheel you are referring too exactly. You dont have to loosen the big crown wheel - just the 4 small wheels in the differential cage. You do have to remove one of the axles to be able to remove these 4 small wheels.

[@mikeatyouttube]

@jtaadmin I'm sure there's a 'proper' tool for extracting the wheel bearing however I used a couple of floor flanges I got at the hardware store. You'll find them in the plumbing section. I used the axle nut as the main pulling surface and then used the 3/8 bolts to push on the metal plate to the left and right of the bearing housing. I didn't touch the bearing at all.

[@mikeatyouttube]

@Mark622111 I looked closely at the car lift from HF before buying it. It's very substantial; rated to 6000 pounds. Nevertheless, especially when I'm jacking up my 3500lb subaru, I put extra 4x4 wooden posts under the metal to give me more confidence. The car doesn't 'rest' on the hydraulics anyway - there's a ratchet device that jams the downward motion of the jack. So that feature is reassuring. It did cost about $1k. It's quite 'high' - I drive the MG onto planks of wood to get clearance.

[@lawrencesargant1669]

Great job, many thanks. 👍🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧

[@OvermarsDaria]

Super class demo ,thank you so much!!

[@jhonnjakob2967]

thank you sir for sharing your knowledge

[@mikeatyouttube]

Bummer :( I think it might be time to ask your question on one of the MG forums. I can't help much. Good luck - but be sure to post the solution when you've finally worked it out.

[@mikeatyouttube]

@markwilliampayne I have not done any work on the pinion. I considered replacing the bearing and the oil seal but the workshop manual details a number of somewhat complicated measurements, shims and torque settings that put me off. So good luck with your job - maybe video that so others can benefit from your experience?

[@jtaadmin]

@mikeatyouttube I can see what you mean - no use for an exhaust replacement?? The 2.2K looks to be too high for my shop. BTW - what do you call those things you used to pull the bearing out?? How do you stop the bearing from being damaged?

[@mikeatyouttube]

Cross pin - hmmm - do you mean the big 4 inch long or so by 1/2 inch rod that goes through the centre of the cage with the pinion wheels? If so, then there's a spring pin that you need to knock out with a screwdriver and then tap the rod back towards the inside of the diff housing STOPPING when you get about 1 inch exposed. Then turn the cage around and pull the rod out. Well, that's how I did it.

[@jtaadmin]

Excellent video - about to tackle my MGB rear end "clunk" - what model of HF lift do you have? I think they have 2 versions rated to 6000lbs.

[@jamich5]

how do you press the bearing back in to the axel please

[@markwilliampayne]

hi mike:good job on the video. I am replacing the carrier bearings and pinion bearings in my '79B.any experience with this process?

[@mikeatyouttube]

@mikeatyouttube The Lift : The lift is still useful for exhaust pipe (whats that? :) ) work... Get a set of tall axle stands, use the lift to get the car to the right height then lower the car onto your 4 axle stands. Let the left retract all the way for access. BTW I never trust the lift fully. You'll see that I have wooden posts under it just in case (when I'm under the car) - just a few more seconds of escape time. Never had any problems however.

[@mikeatyouttube]

BTW - you did watch part 1 of this video, didn't you? It was in that video that I showed my attempt at removing the cross pin. Just thought I'd ask.

[@SWFLJetSkiRiders]

hey buddy,,,,,does it need to lose the wheel to do the differential?

[@Mark622111]

I'm a fan of Harbor Freight tools for simple jobs not requiring brute force, rusted bolts, etc...for those I get out the quality tools. I'd like a car lift but Harbor Freight?....do you actually get under the car???? Any negatives about your lift? What is the weight capacity? My fear is a blown seal and down comes the car.

[@mikeatyouttube]

@jtaadmin Well, having looked at HFT's website it looks like I have the 91315 model (cost 1.3K) but when I bought mine it was 1K. Doesn't the 94844 at $2.2k look great?! I dont see a big difference between the 46604 model and the 91315 model I have. Just FYI - the thing is big and I do find that the two main horizontal supports are often in the way when working under any car. The external lifting mechanism like in the $2.2k model would be preferable.

[@joseluissolo]

gran informacion gracias saludos

[@cdcorbin1]

Sweet

[@zarka08]

мужик! всё сам! а перчатки медицинские - зло...

[@SWFLJetSkiRiders]

@mikeatyouttube okay....

[@mikeatyouttube]

lol ! - thanks, google translate:)