Mini Cooper Clutch Slave Cylinder Bleeding Tips R50/53 Cooper/Cooper S

This video explores the most efficient way to Bleed a Clutch Slave Cylinder on the MINI Cooper and Cooper S from 2002-2006

[@emeraldaisle2927]

Thank you. I used plumbers pipe strap and two fasteners. Pipe strap has holes in it already. I also found that jacking up the front with the driver side jack higher than the right reduces the chance of air into the slave cylinder line at the master cylinder as this line is so close to the top of the master cylinder unlike the brake lines. The 2 person method worked with the brakes but not here. So, had to buy and use a hand vacuum pump. After 3 tries. It was bled.

[@fredjackson8408]

R50s you have to pull the battery, ECU and battery tray to access the slave cylinder. All these vids are showing 53s where it's under the car

[@itrynano2048]

i found that out today

[@mainstreammenace]

Thank YOU!!! Thank YOU!!! My '04 MCS clutch pedal went soft this weekend and this is EXACTLY the information I have been searching for.

[@M5kungen2]

done this with a pressure bleeder about 2 liter of fluid. and exactly zero bubbles. now clutch is working but still ingage near the floor and still soft pedal.... what am I doing wrong?

[@confederatefan]

My clutch pedal wouldn't return after going into 2nd gear. Managed to pull it back up but now only goes half way down and then goes solid. Havent a clue what it could be

[@yulmerced4434]

wait so i just replace the clutch, bearing and sleeve and ive tried 3 different slave cyl and they all leak from the boot after doing this what am i doing wrong?

[@topdog19945]

can the actuator be adjusted on a 2005 cooper convertible? I think my clutch is slipping and I'd like to adjust it rather than replace it. Also, could a bad actuator cause the clutch to slip? I've also noticed a squeaking noise whenever I press or release the clutch pedal no matter if the engine is running or not. Is that a problem I should be concerned about or does it just need some lube? I also noticed like a chirping noise when I'm in reverse. Is that the clutch or a strut because I had to get my front passenger strut replaced in August because it was making the same noise whenever I accelerated while turning.

[@JohnSmith-qd1hi]

I've put more comments up on here, there are so many other KEY variables that are not in the instructions. What about the pressure plate or fork that the piston sits in. This is not a do it yourself job. Also... I did this myself, did the best I could and although the clutch went to the floor it left me with a little play to get everything into gears, great news right all the gears work???? Some other guy with a cooper for FREE shows up and bleeds the thing. and now the gears do not work at all and the slave is doing nothing. very well made video but there is to much for the average meatball like me... Currently I"m scraping the car, is the clutch bad I don't think so. but you know what I'm done

[@pyramidion5911]

Dude if your struggling that bad you shouldn't be driving a stick shift.

[@dieselburner4461]

Did exactly that and the seal blew twice while compressing it and letting the fluid go through

[@Gigaguenther]

maybe i'm not seeing it correctly, haven't had a good look at that specific area yet, BUT if i'm right in seeing that the feedline runs straight up then i'd think you could just prefill the thing on the bench and then connect it to the feedline without too much of a mess. since a lot of people seem to be busting the rubber boot on the slave cyl. this may be a more pacifistic option

[@emeraldaisle2927]

I used a flexible tin type material plumbers pipe strap which is pre-drilled with two size holes to compress and hold the slave cylinder. My friends have blown out their replacement slave cylinders using the two person bleeding method due to pedal pressure. Using the hand vacuum pump, I was able to do it by myself and no risk of blow-out. The advantage to compressing the cylinder other than aiding with the displacement of air is that it is easy to install/ mount in place when the pipe strap is removed at the end of the bleeding process. Took me 3 times with the front end jacked up. Real easy to get air into the line.

[@528im52]

@sof1map Yes, they are on the bottom side of the engine/transmission

[@WELDEEZ]

Tried this. Doesnt work. Im on .y second warranty slave the first one blew a seal out while trying to bleed. I drove it to work yesterday now i cant get it into gear

[@haycall]

nice work!!!

[@azulcielo33]

Hi i dont know whats wrong withmy 02 mini it wong go nowhere when i change gears i thougth my clutch was bad but is still good the transmission is good as well can u pliz tell me whats causing this problem or anyone "Thankyou"

[@eliseofunesguardado1709]

Alguiem me puede ayudar tengo un mini cooper s r53 año 05 manual lecanbie el cluck pero nl entran los cambios cuando esta ensendido apagado entran ay alguien q me pueda ayudar o que debo aser selo agradeceré mucho

[@pedronazario223]

@@eliseofunesguardado1709 SI DIMELO

[@hummurabi2010]

Thank you!!!

[@antreasmavris]

Thanks a lot!!!

[@california199_7]

Thanks a lot

[@JohnSmith-qd1hi]

My fork..... ok one more time before I scrap this car. The Fork only moves about 1/2 of an inch, is this normal. Before all this The car shuddered going into 1st, but the rest of the gears not an issue. One day I pumped the clutch 6-7 time and it then went to the floor. Ok, not a problem the slave went, it was obvious fluid right where you said it would be everything and even when I got the old slave off 100% positive slave is the issue. I put a slave in, obviously from all my posts I didn't and I still believe I have not bled correctly however. A guy shows up with a cooper yesterday out of the blue ((FREE)) says he likes to help people. Karma, I'm going to owe big so he bleeds it and I see the air popping up as I help him. Once the pressure was up I tightened down the little black release. We installed the slave but it's not hitting the fork like at all it's just slightly touching it. He looked at me and said your clutch is fried, the pressure plate, the fork has no spring in it to even compress the slave. Does this sound right to you, because I'm about to sell this car for $12,000 less than what I paid for it as I just do not have the money to repair. I'm disabled in every way, blown back, 98% hearing loss, epilepsy, most people just call me an ass but it's not the case 150 milligrams of morphine per day would make anyone a jerk but I do try to be a good person and like my out of the blue like my friend here with the yellow cooper I do like to help people. I bring this up because I did say earlier I would get a pressure bleeder the person that controls my money let the card expire ((another time)) I know??? The problem I have is when I bled the slave I was able to get into all the gears and out of neutral when he bled the slave nothing moves at all and make note that the car no longer even starts. I have a mechanic coming out tomorrow and I've said all I've said here to you and he says it's not bled right, bottom line. This is not a job for the do it yourself type of guy, it's not. I was paying $500-700 for pads and new discs now I can change myself in 30 minutes for $150 that's a do it yourself job but this there are so many variables. The fork that the slave sits on should it have spring at all, what does a good part look like installed. I watched another one of your videos and my slave is not compressed like that against the fork at all.. I cant afford the car anyway but selling a car with a $70 repair is not reason to sell it, if the clutch and fork are gone well so be it but I don't believe this.

[@paulmecano1835]

Bleed the clutch at the time you you bleed the bleed the brakes problem solve

[@alexk8583]

now all You have to do is to explain how to add brake fluid into damn thing

[@richiem9316]

just use a bar clamp