Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV - Battery degradation

[@VictorCastillo-hb5bs]

i have a 2018 outlander phev and at the moment my car has been at the dealership for 3+ weeks doing battery test for warrenty replacement.its at 76,000miles with 51% battery health , i'm only getting 10-12 miles at full charge. the dealership told me that its not charging now, so all them test they did finally broke my battery so its looking good for me in getting a new replacement battery, still waiting. the car is very great at everything but the battery issues. i don't want to go back to gas only car, i love the twin electric motors.

[@evdabbler]

You may want to try full EV as well, if you like PHEV you might equally find going back from full EV difficult !

[@jersut]

Thank you for sharing the stat and information, I'm currently in the market for a new vehicle and have set my sights on the 2023 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. I'm curious to know has the battery degradation issue been resolved in the 2023 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV or even in the earlier models from 2020 to 2022?

[@evdabbler]

Unfortunately I have no information on the new 2023. Unless stated otherwise (eg new BMU, cooling system) etc... I would assume similar degradation over time. Saying that, with a larger battery capacity and a new car, it would take time for you to notice the difference. You also get the warranty. Good luck with your choice

[@jersut]

Thank you @@evdabbler

[@VictorCastillo-hb5bs]

the car is great , i love running the ac in the middle of the summer and not using the gas engine, yes the battery is an issue but if you keep an eye on it and with the warrenty ,you should be good, just get the battery checked before warrenty runs out.try and get the new one , the GT version , you'll get more features for your money,and get the tow package from the dealership ,easy to install with the instructions it comes with.if you get the new one, you'll get tax rebate check of around 5,700 in the USA.great car , i only wish they would make it with a bigger battery. love the car period.

[@CrazeAndrei]

Hi have you tried to corelate the degradation with the nr of charges? you can see them on the watchdog. For me every single full charge is eating away 0.1Ah of the battery..

[@evdabbler]

I have lost 1Ah over 5 months and 999kWh recharge, which is more or less c135 recharges. So more like 0.01Ah lost per charge.

[@solefreak2]

How does one go about checking the battery state of health? Can this be accessed via the car infotainment system?

[@evdabbler]

Not really. One of the ways is to reset odometer, reset consumption meter, charge to full, drive on electric only until engine kicks in, note distance driven, multiply by Wh/km on display. Compare this to the numbers i have shared in the videos. Ie do you get 5kWh, 7kWh, 8kWh? Obviously the higher the better.

[@solefreak2]

@@evdabbler Thanks for this, our cars would be in miles rather than km. Also, what sort of battery health would you expect from one thats done 102k miles? Are they still worth buying?

[@evdabbler]

​@@solefreak2 per the graph here you d probably want a car that has 30Ah or more, it d be in the upper half. which means 75% min soh for 100k miles. Possibly looking at typical 20miles range (5.6kWh at 3.5miles per kWh). Again as per the final comment in the video this is not an EV. Don t expect to go far on electric alone. If that s what you want to do, go straight to an EV... that s why we kept this one just 6 months!

[@cyrusviccaji9382]

Most important question for me was how many km does it give you in ev mode after 70k km...what is the rate of degradation in pure ev mode over the yrs.

[@evdabbler]

Check out my other videos as you will find more on range. But if you have 7.5kWh usable on 180Wh/km, that s 40km median range. More if no fast road.

[@cyrusviccaji9382]

@@evdabbler thank you for your response.

[@robertgregory8964]

Do you use a watt-hour meter periodically to measure the energy actually accepted by the battery from nominal empty?

[@evdabbler]

With an EV wallbox, I know how much wall to wall energy is delivered every time. In addition the OBD dongle coupled with the phev watchdog app allows to monitor how much goes in and out at the level of the car.

[@auto-data-net]

Battery degradation increases the internal resistance of the battery, so loses on charging become much higher than charging a battery in a normal state. So you may have, let`s say 10 kWh energy to the battery, but 20-30% of them will be lost as a heat and the rest will be charged. So the capacity can be measured only on discharging.

[@CrazeAndrei]

You can see this also in the cars charging cost menu where you set a fixed price for KW and for me its also going lower and lower..

[@robertgregory8964]

My experience with a 2017 Minicab Miev diagnostics is that the ECU software has an overly pessimistic battery degradation estimation based on elapsed time since the battery manufacture date. This causes the ECU to not fully use the available capacity. When you occasionally run the "battery capacity learn" procedure through the MUT3 interface, the ECU discharges the battery fully (2.8V) using the heater then recharges (to 4.1V with balance). This takes up to 12 hours on the 16 kWh (50Ah cell) Miev battery. Last time, the estimated cell capacity was 35 Ah (range estimate 71 km) before running the learn procedure. Afterwards it was 41.8 Ah (range estimate 124 km).

[@lookoutleo]

My friend is thinking of buying one with 101,000 miles it's a 2015 model what you think battery condition might be?

[@evdabbler]

According to the chart 50% chances there will be 29Ah left (73% capacity). The battery goes down to c10Ah. At c300V that's 5.7kWh useable or a 25 to 38km. You decide whether that is enough for you. What i would do is ask for a measure of remaining capacity before i buy.

[@lookoutleo]

@@evdabbler 25km for 5.5kwh is pretty good, especially for such a huge vehicle . Was it about 10kwh when new then? My leaf was 30 kWh when new , it's 20 now at 120,000 miles so lost about a third of its original capacity

[@TheJouan69]

Interesting, dbcam does a good job to circumvent bmu pessimism, great if not expensive and too frequent.

[@evdabbler]

That's right. If expensive and too frequent, that becomes a problem.

[@BELHORIZON31]

J ai évie d acheter le model 2.4 mivec vous en pensez quoi?

[@BELHORIZON31]

Envie….

[@roltol7539]

does bmu home reset is same as dbcam at service ? :)

[@evdabbler]

No. I understand a bmu reset standalone is not advised. If my understanding is correct, it just wipes out the recording on the degradation rather than use the opportunity to recharge slowly and recalibrate.

[@roltol7539]

@@evdabbler am can you do dbcam at home?

[@evdabbler]

@@roltol7539 no I wouldn't think so.

[@roltol7539]

@@evdabbler as my research says you need MUT3 and some russian "driver" that you have to pay for, and you are good for home diy dbcam.

[@BELHORIZON31]

On peut rouler avec la batterie dechargé?

[@evdabbler]

Oui absolument. La batterie "dechargee" reste a 25% de capacite. La voiture devient alors un mild hybrid.

[@BELHORIZON31]

@@evdabbler C'est parce que ma Lexus m a laché a 359.000 km en plein col de montagne , j ai du payer le remplacement 5200 eur! Plus jamais de vehicule ayant de batterie hybrid comme talon d achille!

[@evdabbler]

@@BELHORIZON31 euh ceci dit ne serait ce pas le cas de n importe quelle voiture qui pourrait lacher a 350,000km et engendrer de tels frais a ce point la?

[@BELHORIZON31]

@@evdabbler etes vous certain que si la batterie de l outlander rend l ame il y a possibilité de rouler en thermique? Ce n est lié à la transmission?

[@evdabbler]

@@BELHORIZON31 Non. Pas sur du tout. Je repondais initiallement a la question plus simple (et differente) que se passe t il quand la batterie est dechargee du point de vue de l utilisateur

[@covalciucalexei6709]

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