model kit workshop 117: Mr. dissolved putty

A thick yet high viscosity liquid putty which can be applied by brush or Q tip to fix minor flaws pitting or texturing issue on a models surface.
Mr. Hobby website:
www.mr-hobby.co...
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[@DansModelBench]

Great review Alan. I have this in my supplies, but never thought to use it as a follow up putty or to use a q-tip for applying it. Will give it a go on my current build today! Dan

[@electroncreations5724]

I prefer to brush it on, as Q-tips tend to leave behind cotton fragments.

[@fpsi_tv]

I think the shedding depends on the quality of the swabs(?)

[@ocsplc]

Alan: I’ve got a few areas of Mr Surfacer 500 on my Jagdtiger that got knicked up. Add more 500 or try this compound as a better filler? Dan

[@KittyFooFo0]

I admire your technique! Bravo!

[@statoilbensin2190]

Got this in my mail today, usually I use Mr surfacer 1200 or extra thinn ca glue to fill gaps but I guess this is thicker so I dont need to use as much. Also got the ammo acetone based putty but its much harder in consistensy like Tamiya or mr hobby basic putty so I guess a little thinning with lacuer thinner might make it easier to apply.

[@mokanaman]

Thanks for reporting back, its great to have a range of putty on hand to tackle any and all issues a model seam or fault may throw at you. I do enjoy using dissolved putty quite a bit. Very smooth.

[@statoilbensin2190]

@@mokanaman Reason I have so many putties are that some fit better for certen situations. The thicc ammo putty is nice for larger seams while the mr surfacer and dissolved putty is better for smaller gaps like on the legs of a gunpla. It says you can airbrush the dissolved putty have you tried it?

[@mokanaman]

​@@statoilbensin2190 No, never had the need to spray that putty. Mr Surfacer 500 does the same job via airbrush. After mixing my own putty and filler primer using auto primer has net great and affordable results.

[@ocsplc]

Please help! A certain armor modeler recommended using Tamiya putty on the sides of German Armor for rolled steel texture and to use the padded sandpaper to lightly smooth the surface. My problem is that I used styrene and CA glue to cover the holes for the track hooks and also put the Maskol over the smaller indents for the track bolts. When I went to smooth it out after removing the CA blocks, the surface looks like the moon! I used Tamiya extra thin glue as a thinner for the putty. But now, with the CA holes open and the Maskol peeling off under the surface I applied it looks terrible! I bought two jars of Mr Dissolved Putty and it looks like I need that to reflect that smooth rolled armor texture on my Jagdtiger. I suppose I could’ve just applied the thinned Tamiya putty across the side and glacis, but then how do I find my holes etc for my track hooks and tool hooks. What a mistake. What should I do?

[@mokanaman]

Oh my that is a complex and quite the story of an issue.

[@mokanaman]

I will go in dot points: -Tamiya putty is standard and amazing for cast texture. Would avoid using cement and swap to acetone or lacquer thinner to thin. -I have never mixed or heard of anyone combining liquid mask (latex rubber), CA and tamiya putty (thicken paint mixed with cement). That is a lot of volatile chemicals and a bad reaction most likely occurred. Ive made many mistakes with experimentation or mis step with similar results or cracks. There is no shame in this. -Let simplify the list of chemicals. Next time I would stick to 1 putty and 1 mask no CA glue be it dissolved or Tamiya. -Lucky putty is just paint and can be chemically stripped away but willl also remove other putty work like seam lines. Soak the part or whole kit in bleach or break fluid and rinse in water. It will be back to bare plastic to start again. - if your happy with how it is and do not want to start from scratch you can measure from reference and other parts were the hocks attack and pin-vice drill it out much like how scratch builder would go about it. -I can send videos on the chemical stripping process. I know you can do this and your mode is salvageable. If you have more questions Im happy to help you in the comment thread. -Good luck, happy modeling and if it works out would love to hear back from you. Regards, Alan.

[@ocsplc]

@@mokanaman dear Alan: thanks. What I did, wrongly, was seek to protect the application spots for the hooks etc. I put styrene with CA glue over the holes and Maskol over other areas which needed parts. And yes! I have used brake fluid already on this Jagdtiger when I did a s****y paint job. Everything would’ve been fine if I just left the Tamiya putty alone as you said. What about just coating it with Mr Disssolve now? I’ve removed all of the bad stuff with sandpaper pads. Must I cleanse the whole model still? I’ve got most of the parts on it. Or can I re-coat it with the Tamiya? I ordered a whole new Tamiya kit. Should I just Chuck this and start over? I’m so depressed. I’m a novice to intermediate modeler who’s trying advanced techniques and making mistakes. Thanks. Dan

[@ocsplc]

Alan I lost your email to send you pics of my s****y work that needs help! Dan

[@mokanaman]

at this stage everything is dry and hardened, another common error is layering paint and chemicals on top of each other with out a full chemical dry harden and cure process. This happens in about 24 hours or little longer. If you are happy with sanding then you can apply the putty as you originally intended to do so. And never ever throw a kit out. This can be your future test piece, dio feature of a destroyed tank or something a kid can play around with. If depress form a major failure happens to me too. Build and paint something basic, small, easy and simple scheme. Finishing something small and cheap shall give confidence and is called a mental build. Some 72nd stuff with low parts counts is a good direction.

[@johnkress2360]

What would be the best thinner?

[@mokanaman]

I've only used lacquer thinner.

[@TheJamesm1980]

Its not resin is it

[@mokanaman]

Does not smell or sand like it, but cannot be sure if it contains resin.

[@TheJamesm1980]

@@mokanaman I was just wondering if sanding indoors is OK with this stuff mind you I airbrush indoors and probably shouldn't

[@mokanaman]

@@TheJamesm1980 I wet sand everything but I find this putty so soft that it sticks to the sand paper rather then flake off and become airborne in dust form. However no were near as harmful as airbrushing indoors.

[@ocsplc]

Please help! A certain armor modeler recommended using Tamiya putty on the sides of German Armor for rolled steel texture and to use the padded sandpaper to lightly smooth the surface. My problem is that I used styrene and CA glue to cover the holes for the track hooks and also put the Maskol over the smaller indents for the track bolts. When I went to smooth it out after removing the CA blocks, the surface looks like the moon! I used Tamiya extra thin glue as a thinner for the putty. But now, with the CA holes open and the Maskol peeling off under the surface I applied it looks terrible! I bought two jars of Mr Dissolved Putty and it looks like I need that to reflect that smooth rolled armor texture on my Jagdtiger. I suppose I could’ve just applied the thinned Tamiya putty across the side and glacis, but then how do I find my holes etc for my track hooks and tool hooks. What a mistake. What should I do?

[@mokanaman]

I will go in dot points: -Tamiya putty is standard and amazing for cast texture. Would avoid using cement and swap to acetone or lacquer thinner to thin. -I have never mixed or heard of anyone combining liquid mask (latex rubber), CA and tamiya putty (thicken paint mixed with cement). That is a lot of volatile chemicals and a bad reaction most likely occurred. Ive made many mistakes with experimentation or mis step with similar results or cracks. There is no shame in this. -Let simplify the list of chemicals. Next time I would stick to 1 putty and 1 mask no CA glue be it dissolved or Tamiya. -Lucky putty is just paint and can be chemically stripped away but willl also remove other putty work like seam lines. Soak the part or whole kit in bleach or break fluid and rinse in water. It will be back to bare plastic to start again. - if your happy with how it is and do not want to start from scratch you can measure from reference and other parts were the hocks attack and pin-vice drill it out much like how scratch builder would go about it. -I can send videos on the chemical stripping process. I know you can do this and your mode is salvageable. If you have more questions Im happy to help you in the comment thread. -Good luck, happy modeling and if it works out would love to hear back from you. Regards, Alan.