MORE POWER with cooling! | improving the Victron DC-DC Charger

Bold claim I improve my Real world efficiency and output of my Victron DC to DC charges by 25% with active cooling fans.
If you wish to purchase an Orion B2B here is an affiliate link for my channel
Orion 30A non-isolated:
www.bspksolar....
Orion 30 AIsolated:
www.bspksolar....
Other Victron items
www.bspksolar....
“Real world” is the important part. These units are notorious for overheating. The units thermal throttle and decrease their 30 amp charge output when they overheat. Hotter they get a lower output. I often see my unit down to 25A in a vented electrical cupboard, even in my testing you see a completely open unit start to thermal throttle.
However this does work in the opposite direction cooler the unit higher the output including higher than the listed 30A output.
The 30A / 360w rating which Victron list is actually at 40° operating temperature. The manual also lists a 430w output at 25°.
And that is what the principal of this video is on.
So I decided to make a active cooling
In the video I only achieve a output increase of around 10-15% due to my testes only being 30 minutes in Length as thermal throttling was only down to 28amp at 30mins , my real world observations over the last year or so have shown for my set up being 25amp output at around an hour mark. 25amp uncooled vs a 32.5amp output in 25%  Increase
With my current system Cooling solution I achieve a 32.5 amp output after multiple hours on my units
- Affiliate Links below -
12v 120mm Blower fan
eBay UK = ebay.us/ZRt9Ae or ebay.us/OOPDJT
ebay USA = ebay.us/8FB505
Amazon UK = amzn.to/3rVAJeJ
Victron B2B 12 12 30A
non-isolated eBay UK = ebay.us/XT54jS
isolated eBay UK = ebay.us/9V8191
Both eBay USA = ebay.us/7fFBVm
non-isolated Amazon = UK amzn.to/3gMlZsa
isolated Amazon UK = amzn.to/3BodJIa
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[@ianwright3662]

I think the cooling fan and ducting is a great idea. Great in depth testing.😄

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Thank you. I enjoyed the testing and being able to log data to see the real world improvements

[@jrbloggins]

@@MispronouncedAdventures I would absolutely buy that kit!

[@mathansen]

Thanks for taking the time outlining the contents of your video in the description. I wish more people would do that!

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Thank you I felt for this video as I was doing tests and data it was helpful to have that sort of list down below as well.

[@djsmithe]

I didn't read all the comments so I don't know if anyone has suggested this. Turn the Orian around so the cooling fins aren't against the door and are facing into the cabinet. Just build a mounting bracket. You'll get lots of air flow around the cooling fins. If you wanted, you could mount a fan on the cooling fins like a desktop CPU. WeBoost are designed to have the cooling fins facing outward.

[@ostwelt]

So simple, yet once, you know it, so obvious! BRILLANT IDEA! Of course, that has to be the way. Very smart suggestion. Except in our conceits we want to show off our sexy blue Victron boxes to all fellow enthusiasts. If we just went with thermal efficiency then, exactly, that should be the default passive placement for optimal output. And I don't mean any of this sarcastically. Genuinely this should be the way the units are placed as nearly all are hidden away from the ambient air/air-flow. But again once you say it, seems so obvious. I would say contact Victron but they love us all admiring their gold standard blue boxes to not want to disfigure that with a outward facing heatsinks, even if blue! As would lose invaluable brand and advertsing space. Which is probs why they point out in two lines, buried in the manual, the thermal in/efficiencies BUT DO NOT DO ANYTHING PRO-ACTIVE ABOUT IT. As the new at time of writing DC-DC 50 looks indentical. Now, there is a story of corporate responsibility....

[@ostwelt]

Absolutely fascinating. Despite the launch of the Victron DC-DC 50 this is probably as valid today as then (given what the components do). Amazed given how many corporate builders like to show off their beautiful, yes beautiful to behold, wiring in confined spaces yet have NEVER seen any todate talk about the cooling required. Left me with the intent of squeezing as much into as small a space as possible with no regard for optimal performance. Now understand that confinement does not equate to peak efficiency. An invaluable and timeless lesson for wiring electrical systems. Thank you. Ps been watching the channel for awhile simply for the kudos of your van travelling in the Artic. At 60 you have become my pin-up hero! Respect.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Thank you. The new Orion XS 50A is 98% efficiency so little heat is mad but this core idea of keeping electrical components cooler is definitely valid as ever. I do also often lovely build stuffed in cupboard without vent. Glad to like my arctic videos, I love making them

[@Peter-at-Heres-The-Thing]

Superb, Alex. I work with repairing computers for my day job so I appreciate the positive effects of decent cooling on electrical components. It's not surprising how much more efficient stuff runs at given a meaty heatsink and active cooling but it IS surprising how infrequent manufacturers supply adequate cooling for their equipment. You're really getting your money's worth from that Flir camera! P.S. Must say a massive thank you on behalf of my daughter and her boyfriend - you did a spot of troubleshooting on their Renogy Dc to DC at Camp Quirky last weekend. They can't stop singing your praises - and rightly so. You're a top guy. Peter

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Definitely. It had a larger effect than I thought. Definitely by default in adequate cooling for this unit even running in optimal mounting conditions. But it is nice that Victron made the temperature related to the output for above 30 as well. Oh yes getting a lot of use from the flir camera. It’s just a great little tool for visualising lots of things. Absolutely my pleasure helping them they’re both lovely. Hopefully we will all meet again at another event this year.

[@jamesmason7124]

Nice video Alex and I have a tip for you, it's more efficient to draw the heat out than it is to blow air in.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Thank you. I wasn’t aware of this concept so I’ve just done a bit of research and looking at. It seems was generally true drawing air across it was more efficient in high-density Fin design heatsinks whilst blowing out across was more effective during low-density Fin design heatsinks. I didn’t know about any of that for this test, I think drawing air across with this model of fan wouldn’t be practical given the fan design but it would be interesting to see on the version with the normal PC fan which was more effective in the case of the Orion

[@holdenman8850]

In the PC world, people have tested both ways, drawing air and blowing air over a heatsink and there is very minimal temp change between the two

[@ProjectCamper]

Brilliant video and great idea, I also have a small brushless fan under my dc2dc controlled by the auxbeam 8 gang RGB panel,after moving it because of the heat from under living quarters bench seat into the rear, as you rightly have proven they get proper hot, really pleased with the results and also adding longevity to the dc2dc. Definitely think there is a commercial opportunity for a cooling kit. 👍

[@scottcamp7423]

I would buy one for sure. I'm just now starting to add a second battery to a suburban build. Thanks for the informative video.

[@cbickel2009]

Super helpful. I bought the fan for my B2B

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Thank you very much, hope you get a better output

[@rudivandoornegat2371]

Nice R&D video. I think there's a good chance this will be the standard of installing the Victron DC-DC charger in a few years.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Thank you yes the video is definitely a proof of concept style video. But it does seem there is certainly a interest in active cooling system which will overall improve the health and performance of the units

[@Chris-ut6eq]

actual testing with data is very cool or hot depending on your frame of reference. Simplified, data is useful! :) Thanks for posting this.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Thank you. Well I’m sure more scientific tests could be done and better data collection and plotting. I think it’s overall is a great way to both have test data and visualise differences

[@fergusmoloney]

For the price of the victron stuff there should be active cooling included in the unit from the factory. It’s ridiculous to think the product will begin throttling performance at 40degrees centigrade. If you start producing kits they’ll have to be victron blue. RAL5012 is the colour code you need for the 3d printer spool. 😉

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Completely agree and most of the competitors seem to have active cooling! You are right it would have to be blue!

[@MyGoogleYoutube]

If you think the Orion is ridiculous....look at the thermal derates for their inverters. Phoenix Compact 12V 2000va......at 25C it is making 1600W. At 40C it drops to 1400W 65C 1000w.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

My guess is the throttling is their way of preserving device for long-term use or overcautious safety measures

[@MyGoogleYoutube]

@@MispronouncedAdventures I will admit Victron is rather transparent with their specs - maybe that is an industry standard derate?

[@kadmow]

The same works on "fanless" inverters (of any type - they tend to run hot, especially when ambient conditions warm up) - a little additional cooling input is well rewarded energy usage.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Definitely, I can’t see how adding cooling to any type of electrical device which gets hot would be a disadvantage

[@ostwelt]

@@MispronouncedAdventures Why don't peeps mount all this running hot kit directly to the van chassis then? Newbie question that just immediately occurs to naive me!

[@rhiantaylor3446]

Just stumbled across your channel so thanks ! Always like to see hardware working at its underlying capability and squeezing 33% more output can only be a good thing. I am starting to plan my own van conversion and was thinking about running a 48v leisure system with cheap buck converters dropping down at each 12v load. All that thick wiring needed for 12V looks very tidy but less convenient. When I worked in industry, 50v was considered the threshold between safe and unsafe voltage so 48v still OK.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Thank you I think it’s a great way to demonstrate how important cooling is. And you’re very much correct working with 24 or 48 V systems, wiring is a lot more convenient and less expensive!

[@elliotsporgitas7361]

Really nice video ! Do you think you could share the 3D file for the air duct? I'm myself installing a victron B2B in my van and I'm concerned about heating issues .. Thank you ! Or I could be interested in buying a kit but I needed it like 2 weeks ago ^^ How did you manage wiring of the fan and the triggering of them ? Thank you !

[@Kellinator-zm5ny]

Yes I would definitely be interested in a kit!

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Feedback has been great. So will be looking into the next steps

[@starr_helix6770]

Alex - another great video, thanks…. You mounted the chargers on aluminium plates… might I suggest extra cooling might be achieved if you ‘stood’ the plates off of the doors (nylon spacers maybe?) Anyway - we’ll done 👍

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

In this case the aluminium plates are to meet the mounting of Orion which is to be mounted on a none flammable material. There isn’t really much contact between the fins and the backing

[@philpowell6915]

Brilliant, Alex...!! Could I get a cooling kit? I'm about to install the Orion into my van.....Thanks

[@marekondrus5579]

thanks for testing this. it would be great to have an overall verdict also including the powerdraw from the fans...e.i. the differnce in power gain vs power lost of the 2x 1A? fans

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

There isnt any power lost / lost of charging Potential from the fans as they power via the input side so. So they don’t take from the output. They are 1A fans so 12-14w to run each one. Per charger from uncooled to cool. My real world difference was 26A output to 32.5A. Although that’s very circumstantial to my set up. The overall purpose of the video was to demonstrate how important cooling is for these units, and that they can be called to achieve more than their assumed 30amp output.

[@DavidRodriguez-wr1gr]

Great video,yes Cooling fans would be awesome il would be intrested if the had a temperature sensor even better, if u can make some for there inverter chargers ,alot of people would buy

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I had looked into a temperature sensor and whilst it would’ve been reasonably easy to do I have multiple spare temperature relays around I thought it was a potentially unnecessary. As the units will overheat every time they are on. And they’re only gonna be on when the ignition is on, so using an ignition live to trigger the fans seem like just as good idea. Whilst a temperature relay could be useful in an environment where a ignition live is not accessible all that you wanted the fans to turn off after they had finished bulking

[@keswickadventure]

Excellent video as always Alex, however… you’ll be pleased to know that increasing 300w to 400w is actually an increase of over 33%. See, I knew you’d be happy hehe

[@matthewknight5641]

All my chargers and inverters ate under my bed in my travel trailer 7000 watts inverter 45 kw lithium and 200 watts of victron charge controllers. Also 100 amps of 110 chargers with powermax 24 volt chargers. I use 2 small fans one pulling and the other side of the bed cabinet a fan is pushing air out. In the winter it helps heat the camper but summer it kinda cooks that bedroom. I need to install a vent hose qnd fan to pump the hot air outside during summer

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

My electrical cabinet does pump out from heat in the winter

[@mathumphrey9429]

Hi, I just discovered your channel. Thank you for all the time and effort you put into producing content. I have been planning on putting some Fans in for my DC-DC, and this has inspired me to pull my finger out and get it done. However, I'm not sure how to control the fans to come on and off; I currently have it set up to sense engine switch on, so not sure how to trigger the fans. Do you have a wiring diagram or advice on the physical set up ?

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Glad you have found the channel and this video helpful. I’ve had my fans turn on with an “ignition live”, I did think about a temperature relay but didn’t see much point. If the Orion’s are on might as well have fans on

[@rob.maramé]

Excellent video. I have been planning on doing the same thing. Very valuable info

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Glad it’s been helpful. Good luck with your own project!

[@rob.maramé]

@@MispronouncedAdventures Many thanks

[@darrylamour]

Just found your channel, excellent video. Definitely believe the 3d printed ducting kit would be excellent. Let me know when available.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Thank you very much for finding my channel and glad you enjoyed the video. If we do get further with the ducting Kit, I will make a channel announcement for people.

[@goose-F16]

Brilliant!.. thorough.. well engineered.. keep up the great vids..

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Much appreciated :)

[@Scamdemic]

Interesting stuff. NOCTUA fans could be a good option, 120mm/140mm or even 200mm as an all round cupboard fan.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Noctua fans are pretty amazing. I use a few of them in the build. I have a 120mm Noctua fan which takes the air out of the cupboard

[@gazhatt]

Would definitely purchase a kit, enjoyed your vids👍

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Thank you very much!

[@bonehead2412]

have you though about mounting to the body of the van as you go to very cold places and use a thurmal compound might make the even better

[@MyGoogleYoutube]

Thanks for your through work - super clean install. Love those push connectors with screw mounts....super clean way to deal with small gauge wiring. Who makes those?

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Thank you. The connections are call Wago connectors. The mounts are separate and they came with a kit, but I’m struggling to find them separately at the moment.

[@yvonlapalme7008]

Great job in coming up with this mod. Yes… I would consider your blower with the 3D printed channel. If you added a space gap behind the DC-DC charger I think it would add to the cooling equation. Questions : Have you considered using a better fan/blower? Quieter and using less power? Also if you would go up one size on your wires would it add efficiency & cooling? Cheers….. Yvon

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Space gaps to aid cooling would definitely be beneficial. There should be at least 10 cm above the unit and I seen some people install them with gaps behind. I don’t really think I could get a better fan or blower. The fan I’m currently using is pretty powerful at 1 amp at 12 V. I don’t feel a more powerful fan could achieve much better cooling. Quieter and less powerful could be an option, but would probably decrease in the cooling factor . However, the power consumption for the fan is somewhat irrelevant ( for me ) as it comes from the input side, so does not subtract from the output potential. As for noise, the fans are only running while the engine is running, and I easily drowned out by the action of driving. my main cable run is 50mm2 then splitting off just before the units themselves to 16mm2 which is the maximum input the units can take. Losses through those cables are tiny. Under the thermal camera much of the temperature in the cables comes from direct transfer from the hot unit opposed to heating up via resistance

[@paulgcourt]

Great video. The other elephant in the room is that electronics generally have a massive drop in reliability when run hot. The cooler unit will almost certainly outlast the uncooled unit by a multiple.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Definitely there’s pretty much no negative points on cooling electronics, both from performance and relative point of view

[@christianwinkelmann8477]

Super nice well done, that’s what I always liked at your Chanel.Would like to get tow one for the Orion the other one for the mppt.Please let us know when your friend will make some bucks.Thanks…

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Thank you very much. I’m glad to see there’s a lot of interest it’s something we will work towards making into a kit, it might take some time however. As for a MPPT version. Well the ducting Kit originally will be based for the Orion or units of the same sized heat sink . any form of direct airflow will definitely help the mppt

[@harryhimpson5663]

that is a crazy set up i love it

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Cheers! More power the better!

[@douglasmontgomery6315]

Alex, liquid cooling can transfer more heat than air. Any way that Victron heatsonk could be removed and a liquid cooler with a small water pump installed (think water cooled CPU's) ? If not, how about finding metal tubes (like brake lines or industrial metal tubing that you could wedge in between the on board Victron heatsink fins and run water through them and then through a heat exchanger in the cabinet?

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Aye. Water cooling would be way more effective, i’ve played with it before in other Applications. But for this I wanted to make a system which was not modifying the original unit and avoiding warranty.

[@JonNewlyn]

Brilliant video, what about creating a vent above the DC2DC unit to blow the dispersed heat into the cabin?

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

it’s difficult to see in this video there’s actually a custom 3-D printed ducting in the electrical cabinet which pulls out of the air out of the cabinet when the door is closed

[@UrbanVanlife]

I’m only here for the comment section 🍿

[@travellingDAS]

Hmm.. I’d take this further.. Put in a cooling circuit and some passive rads somewhere and let airflow from the moving vehicle provide the cooling. Just a thought. Great video, great idea and execution.

[@ninoadp100]

How about hooking up a blower fan that sucks air through the unit instead of pushing air through. And the blower will direct air outside of the van at the same time.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I think looking back at the research, I think I remember find out about sucking air across versus blowing air across head sink. I think I found there was merit and increased cooling efficiency on low fin number, large fin heatsinks to blow air past them, whilst on heatsinks , with many smaller fins sucking can be more efficient. The cupboard itself has an additional fan which helps pull the warm air out of the whole electrics cabinet

[@bobmanemann3033]

Great install video. I just purchased dual units. Planning my install. Where did you get the fans.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Glad you worked well for you. If you find my video about getting more power out of the Orions there is a link too the fans in the description

[@jonnytacooutdoors]

My victron dc dc is skipping bulk phase I found forums alone many others having the same issue. This didn’t happen when I first got it. Ran it for only a few trips then started doing it. Things useless now. Anyone figure out then solution? I’m thinking just go with a different brand all together.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

That is a odd symptoms. Normally charges leaving bulk too early is a charge profile setting issue, battery already full or a high amp charge current on a smaller battery which causes to increase quicker.

[@PlatisTobbe]

I've just recently installed one of the Victron DC/DC 30A isolated. But I have hardly tried it out yet, but I've also heard that it could get really warm. I'm interested of that cooling-kit if the shipping to Sweden don't get to expensive.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I’m sure in the future if we are able to produce a kit that international orders can be arranged

[@PlatisTobbe]

@@MispronouncedAdventures Lovely!!

[@syncrosimon]

Told you heat was the limiting factor😎

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

It’s mad how much heat effects these devices

[@syncrosimon]

@@MispronouncedAdventures it’s bad that no manufacturer properly deals with this. It’s not like they don’t know!!

[@mrmagoo4897]

Id be keen to buy the kit :)

[@markjackson6829]

Yes, a 120mm desktop case/component fan would be a lot quieter and use less power and be cheaper than a laptop fan depending upon what is actually the sweet spot for additional cooling!?

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Definitely a conventional 120mm fan is quieter. But Definitely a lot less effective if you’re trying to achieve the absolute maximum output which I am in my case. If you just want to keep the unit a bit cooler than 120mm PC fan with work. Since I’m powering the fan off the input side I guess the actual power usage of the fan it self isn’t particularly relevant in my situation. Sweet but depends on what you’re trying to achieve

[@markjackson6829]

@@MispronouncedAdventures True!

[@CANheSE3me]

Maybe I missed it, did you just wire the fans so that Key On Power (from the truck) was turning on the Fans?

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Yes, the fan are on an ignition live. Not directly, the ignition live is just a voltage signal to close relay because the ignition live isn’t meant for directly powering things. More or less if the ignition is on, that’s because I’m going to be driving the van and if I’m driving the van the DCDC charges will be on so the fans should be. I decided not to use a temperature relay as I thought generally that’s a waste of time given that the DCDC charges always overheat. It might as well might as well always have the fan on when they’re running

[@Skaters713]

Great video, Question: as all the testing was done with the cabinet open any thoughts or tests on how efficient the cooling is when the system is in a closed cabinet space (I am assuming you have the cabinet closed when driving/charging) thanks

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Its good point and a correct assumption. The door open / closed effect was not part of the testing. I was demonstrating the effect of cooling on the unit opposed to showing the best way to cool them. But the is a decrease in cooling effectiveness when the door is closed, however there is a additional extractor fan base inside the cabinet which removes hot when the doors please. Otherwise you would just be moving around hot air inside the cabinet

[@ozmanfidaar6311]

Outstanding video. Curious if Renogy DC-DC chargers that come dual fans in the unit are superior? I've got a 40A renogy DC-DC charger and the fans kick on as soon as the unit heats up and produces noticable amount of heat exhaust.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Active cooling is going to be better than passive for sure. I don’t think the Renogy have a temperature related output like that Victron ones.

[@qchatgreg]

all very well, but under load, the units heat up from internal dissipation…. somunless you live and operate in the antarctic :) and blow really cool over the units, i dispute that you can realistically keep the units < 40C when operating under “full “ power . (i have qty siz units! fan cooled .. so quite some experience)

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

This is under load. There is no “load” charge for unit between idling the van engine for the testing or driving ( as my alternator can produce enough for the units to run at full, and my leisure battery bank system was discharged to 50% so it was always going to be charging a maximum possible from the unit ) . both unit will still be on there bulk mode regardless which is the maximum output based on unit temperature. as for testing criteria on blowing “cooled” air. whilst I’m backed in the uk. Ambient air temperature was a important test criteria to keep the same. For this these tests the habitation air temp was always heated to 21c ( via the Diesel heater ) for consistency. ( the 8c cold temp seen in frame a lot of the an insulated metal door jam at the bottom of the scene ) You’re welcome to dispute it but that’s both what did the tests show the units cool remaining under 40° in full power in my set up, and same shown in my real world output over the last 34 months of having this installed. But regardless of them remaining under 40° or not in others set ups ( example just putting 120mm computer fan on the back of the heat sink wouldnt achieve this rate of cooling ). Since the output of these units is directly linked to unit temperature any fan assisted cooling will receive better results in output than uncooled units

[@stand4807]

So is the cooling ducting ever made it into production? I see lots of people asking for it but no reply's ever posted back. Is it available to buy @Mispronounced Adventures

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I personally didn’t, but a friend of mine on instagram called “veeventures” sells a variation of them

[@ekdave1962]

Great info do you have a wiring diagram for fan control please

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I don’t, but it a standard relay set up with the relay trigger being and ignition Live

[@ekdave1962]

@@MispronouncedAdventures ok thanks, may for a current sensing relay as it a removable canopy setup and adding a wire and plug is a pain cheers David

[@vales_n_dales8174]

Hi Alex Great video👍. Defo interested in the active cooling kit if available

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Cheers. The type of fans are use can be found in the video description Amazon store link.

[@vales_n_dales8174]

@@MispronouncedAdventures Cheers, already winging their way to my abode. Great information real world videos Alex 👍.

[@nightstringers]

So I have one of those dc to dc chargers I dont see some of the setting on the app that yours does at 5:40 or is that another type of hardware you are monitoring

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

5:40 im swapping to the Victron BMW-712 battery monitor in that Victron connect app, to check the current / amp. As unfortunately you don’t get a amp reading on the Orion in the app

[@nightstringers]

@@MispronouncedAdventures I want to be able to get the amount of battery left and so on

[@nightstringers]

@@MispronouncedAdventures thank you btw

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

You’ll need a Victron smart shunt or Victron BMV-712 battery monitor. Both do the same thing only the 712 comes with a small physical display. Both have the app

[@trixareforchuck0001]

Hey! Not sure if you said this in a comment, but is the file to the ducting available anywhere? I’d like to print my own if possible!!

[@eddybalentien4263]

The kit is a great idea. I am interested

[@wilco1v]

What are you charging Lead acid ,Agm ,Lithium ? nice result with cooling added, ad a little temp sensor/rpm pc fan controller to it and the noice will act on heat dissorpation (did the same on my caravan absorbtion cooler years ago ,got huge cooling inprovement on that too ) (I use a 18 liter dometic Cdf18 Compressor cooler behind the subaru Forester driverseat now no absorbtion cooler can beat that ,its freezing cold ..........)

[@Vctr]

Why don't just install fans in the door right behind the chargers? The output would be better.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

This video is more about the effects of cooling opposed overall than how I cool them. Reason I didn’t go for that option, however, I didn’t wanna have to cut holes in the door.

[@lshkim]

Are you using the vehicle alternator for the DC-to-DC charger? If so, is the alternator able to handle two 30A units? Thank you!

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Yes, which is a pretty standard use of a DC to DC charger. Personally my alternator can handle it as it’s a 220A alternator by default. But some of my friends vehicles only come with a 110A alternator which would not be able to support two of the Orions

[@davidpatrick1813]

I would be interested but I am in Oregon U.S.A. ... a 90% too meaning fan at 90 degrees ... price can mean a lot

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I definitely don’t see it being an expensive kit. You are very right ambient temperature will pay a large factor in overall performance. However I assume still in a hot environment actively blowing any air across a heat sink will provide more effective than just a heat sink without blowen air in the same hot environment.

[@davidpatrick1813]

@@MispronouncedAdventures thanks for the work and analysis. It is helpful.

[@yvonlapalme7008]

Yes… I’d be interested in cooling units. I’ll be at this point by July in my build. Please advise. Q- if I’m feeding power from alternator @ 12V thru a DC 2 DC unit then into a 24V battery system… do I get 30ish amps @ 24V ? Cheers….. Yvon.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

So you would need the Victron DC 2 DC 12v | 24v 15amp. To go from a 12v alternator to 24v leisure system. So you would get a 30a draw from the alternator and got a 15a output at 24v. I don’t think the 24v side of the unit will get as hot, but the 12v will still so cooling will still be good

[@betterwithrum]

can you share the file for the ducting?

[@lakedistrict9450]

Yes I’d be interested

[@philwood1683]

Another great video. Did you ever make an active cooling kit to sell?

[@nick4862]

Thanks for the video, mind sharing your 3d model for the fan/shroud? I have a couple of laptop cpu/gpu fans that look to be the same spec and have the same problem to solve.

[@benodlum2724]

Alex can we buy these of you i need this for my victron asap

[@Thes1rongestn0ob]

any chance i can get the duct STL please to print my own

[@wanderingzythophile9083]

Very nice! I expect I'll do something similar with my (single) Orion when it comes time to install my electrics. I considered it for the MPPT as well but I doubt that'll be as big a concern. Curious as to the wiring going into the chargers' remote ports (green dongle bit) - looks like you have them chained from the left unit, to the right unit, then into the Wago connector and (presumably) out to your dashboard switch? I don't follow how you could use that one/two switch to turn one unit or both units on in that config.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

My installation video covers the wiring for my units. However the wiring at the beginning of the video for the intro is different from the wiring I did during the test phase. The later version of the wiring means are control individual Orions and they can be turned off by a switch on the dashboard which is connected to the H remote pin as well as the fan power on each unit

[@pierosarra]

Ottimo lavoro

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Thank you

[@jamesfrasca5464]

Can i get 1 of the 3d printed vent?

[@wedframes6409]

Is it not better to buy just a renogy 60A or 2x 40A?

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Whilst true in that respect, there are sterling and Renogy 40,50 & 60A B2B ( Victron are lagging behind in that area ) many who I have seen including myself have upgraded from having single charger for a time too adding a second. In my head it would make sense to add a second of the same unit opposed to getting rid of the old one and adding one large capacity. In other cases lots of people like to use all of the same company for their components. So if you were building a Renogy system it would be Renogy as the obvious choice.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I think in a particular case of this video you could have one or two Victron units like I do but it’s just about getting the best performance out of your unit. As I often see people have the 30 amp units thermal throttle down to 25 or even lower.

[@ian9963]

I would like to order a kit for 2x dc-dc a.s.a.p pls How can I contact you for price and payment? How soon could I receive the kit?

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

At the moment the kit is in a prototype Proof of concept stage whilst it may take some time when there is a viable product of kit for sale I will make it known

[@nickselby6049]

Hi , just found your channel and would love to purchase four kits, are you any further forward with your prototypes. Regards Nick

[@JimHenshaw-s9g]

I am with the rest of the recent commenters, I would buy your vent defuser, I would need 4 in total. Please let us know.

[@emmaurbanvanlife120]

What’s the 🫖 🍵 🐸 🍿?

[@UrbanVanlife]

Thought you might pop in to see the madness

[@emmaurbanvanlife120]

@@UrbanVanlife love a good read

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

🥤 🍿

[@dennisparker7541]

very interested in ducting

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

There’s been a lot of interest in the project so we’ll see what can be done

[@dennisparker7541]

@@MispronouncedAdventures I have my Victron dc-dc charger and a spare one of those fans for my rig... might even get a second and hook it up in reverse to make sure my engine battery stays charged...

[@David_11111]

yay

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Thank you!

[@heidibear5]

I would definitely buy one in fact I would buy some more of your things have you ever thought of doing a paid easy tutorial for a lot of the things you have done to your van

[@c0ll0]

With the extra watts mount them in a fridge 😁🤣

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

The main purpose of this video was to demonstrate the effects of cooling opposed to the cooling method as such. But I definitely did think about the idea of what other more extreme routes could you do to keep them cooler.

[@c0ll0]

@@MispronouncedAdventures not such a bad idea mount them in a 12 v cool box I'm currently looking at the renogy 40 amp dc dc combined with mppt kill two birds one stone , tuff one as victron is top of the range some good reviews on the renogy best of luck

[@c0ll0]

Iv just bought the renogy 50 amp dual input I'm going to put isolator switches from solar plus alternator I'm lead to believe the alternator will not produce the full 50 amps if you have solar while driving , might be a good idea to only switch solar on while stationary as you say it was a tuff choice with victron being so popular happy camping 👍 ps I think I have enough room to mount it in the cab so at least it can have some air circulation

[@WizzRacing]

If you do this. You have to up size the wiring and breaker.. Not sure if the manufacture would like that...As now they are liable for installer misuse.....Unless they put in big ass letters. Not too do this disclaimer in....

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

No reason to not do it, nor is it “misuse” of the product, It’s an listed feature in the manual for the product and it’s capabilities. Most people just don’t know it’s a feature because they have next look past the box which said 30A on it. The units output is directly related to unit temperature, and is intended to increase or decrease the output depending on that temperature. Reading the manual under the specs tells your the output wattage is a scale. Also you wouldn’t need to upsize the breaker, fuse or wiring. The listed recommendations in the manual for the product capabilities, Not just “30A” which is printed on the Devices case which is the product output at a very specific temperature. The difference between 360w / 30A output and 430w / 35.8A in regards to up sizing wires and fuses isn’t necessary. Victron already recommended 16mm2 wire which is rated to 110A and most kits or people use 60a fuses.

[@WizzRacing]

@@MispronouncedAdventures It's misuse of the product. As they rated it for 30 amps.. Go call Victron. They will tell you the same thing..

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

@@WizzRacing again it’s not Misuse. go read the manual ( available for PDF download on victorn website ) . Turn to page 17 and look in the top corner. When it’s lists the units output at 360-400w ( not a fixed 360w / 30A ) and further down the page it lists the continuous outputs at 40c ( 360w ) and 25c ( 430w ) Having just spent the weekend in person with two large Uk Victron dealers who know there products very well and also feature on the Victron website they are also aware of this functionality of the Orions

[@WizzRacing]

@@MispronouncedAdventures Look short bus rider. You are over riding the manufacture rating. Adding in heat sinks, fans etc.. Is misuse. As that heat has to go somewhere. Not to mention you close that door to your in-closer. You're inducing more heat in that monstrosity you built. Which is the size of a Shoe box. I'm surprised it has not caught fire yet.. Now go take a course in electrical theory. As they don't teach it as electrical theory for the last 400 years for nothing..

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

The Victron device manual literally states variable output based on temperature in the manual. Above and below the marketed “30A”. Throttles below 30A at increased temperatures ( 40c+ )and higher output below ( 40c ) and Victron dealers says this on also a feature. heatsinks are already part of the unit. so no modifications their. where do i thinking that heat goes? Well away from the unit that the whole point of a heat sink in the first place, adding a fan to blow air over a heat sink just improves how well heatsinks work. If you look at the two units in the test, you can’t honest Believe the out of the box unit with no air blowing across the built in heat sink running at 55-59c and throttling the output below 30 A is better off than an a unit running at 25-30c with a fan blowing on it? That just ridiculous. As for the closing door part, the point of the video was to demonstrate the effect of output both above and below 30A based on unit temperature, particularly as thermal throttling is very common with these units. But since you brought it up the cabinet when the door closes has ventilation slits at the top and bottom including fans and ducting which removes warm air from the top of the unit out of the ventilation gaps. and maintain the Victron recommendations on clearances above units as well.

[@40motomike]

Did these ended up being printed and sold? Or a link to the stl and I can print myself.

[@dragthatsht]

When I moved mine into a location with much less airflow I wondered if it would be a problem. I can confirm, I noticed a massive loss in output. Over 50 watts. It will be getting moved very soon.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Location is definitely very important with these units. I seen some units out putting less than 20A due to thermal throttling in the wrong locations.

[@florincostinelionita]

Dude what an awesome idea, I would definitely do that on my camper, I have the isolated dc/dc 30A, I found the vent on Amazon, now I need the black air spread. Can I have the file so I could print it? I'll pay for it ofcourse. Thanks for sharing all these informations to the world ❤

[@snoobler]

Flawed test. You are not comparing cooled to un-cooled, you are comparing cooled to choked. Your inoperative system was actually inhibiting natural convection and inhibiting natural cooling. You should have removed the fan and duct to remove the cooling system completely and eliminate the obstructions.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Ducting is only on in final tests. The area below only had the fan sitting it on which does a part cause a restriction is did not blocking off air movement, plenty of free space , probably a lot less blocked off than most of wiring coming down and the tops blocked off by mounting them too high installs. Regardless, the “un-cooled” is the least interesting of the results and is mainly there as I have two units and helps visually illustrate the point with thermal . As that’s the variable everyone has in there own van and varies the most due to individual mounting. That’s were there output can drop as low as 18A from overheating ( my average was 26A when I had a single unit mounted ) . That being said i still know the output and have thermal footage on when I had a single unit mounted normally and un-cooled. The overall point of the video wasn’t too say my cooling method was best ( or my un-cooled ) but it demonstrate the effects on unit output because of the temperature which can lead to output above the listed 30A output. The output numbers themselves are not important, the fact that we’re different and substantially different was. The more realistic test would’ve been to do the test with the cabinet door closed and the electrics in a cupboard so the air mass heats as the test goes on. Would be more comparable to most installations.

[@grahamgraham1624]

I'm just about to start my van build and have watched loads of videos ect. But have never seen anyone mount their mppt / DCtodc unit spaced off the wall say 1/2 inch with spacers ? To let more air around the back or do the fins have to be close the the wall to work ??

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I do you think mounting it a little bit further off the backboard if you’re just using the fins / passive cooling will help. I don’t think on the DCDC and how much they heat up during operation but it will help that much. Definitely better than nothing

[@owenparker6651]

I would like to buy one of the 3D printed concentrator ducting 'thingy' or get the files so I could print it myself. Are either of those things possible? I'll attempt to make one myself, if not, but wanted to ask and save some stress! :) Thanks for sharing!

[@Jennifer-007]

So can we buy this kit yet, I have 2 MPPT 250/100's and could use a set of those ducts.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

The 250/100 are far physically larger units. But the same cooling fans would be reasonably effective without the ducting

[@zeuswwr6295]

I would like to by the fan duct kit. Have you put together a kit and a price? I'm in the US.

[@DavidVanderwiel]

I would like to buy 3 kits for my 5th wheel trailer? Thanks, David

[@cybeer67]

Thanks for sharing. It really worries me the high temp the dc 2 dc gets. I wonder if i can connect the 12v fan on the output of the DC2DC so it turns on when charging. Have you tried that ?

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Attaching it to the output wouldn’t work, it’s would always been on, as the leisure system, battery would power it. Which is why I added mine to a ignition live.

[@cybeer67]

@@MispronouncedAdventures Just found out. Output is to the house Batts so it will be always on. Thanks for the tip and for the beautiful informative video.

[@nigelallison518]

Great video I was thinking of doing something similar. Years ago I was using a CB radio type power supply to power a electric cool box and the cooling fins got very hot, so I installed a couple 50mm pc fans to it blowing up the fins. This worked extremely well and if anything the fins stayed cold

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Oh definitely any type of cooling on any heat sink will improves its efficiency.

[@JackDaniels85-4x4Vandura]

Thanks a bunch for straightening me out on isolated versus non isolated.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

No problem at all

[@irenedunne352]

where do you wire the fans into......

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

While that not part of this video as it’s more showing the effects of cooling. The duel B2B install video covers the where the fans are wired into. But more or less. Ignition live. So the fans are wired into the input side. So there is no lose on the output side powering the fans

[@forresteralex]

Can i buy the 3d printed part of you ?

[@johnkeyworth976]

Great vid. And a great electrical setup. Very envious. Great idea with the ducting, has there been any information on a possible sale of the ducting or the release of the stl file.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Glad you enjoyed it. There are a few people who now sell variations of the ducting idea. Depends which country you are in.

[@erwin757]

Aren’t you pulling way to much from the alternator? Especially when idling you will find that the alternator gets very hot! You can’t use your van as a generator… but I suspect you already know that !

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

That would depend on the alternator, mine is 220A this pulling a total of 90A ( 2 B2B’s + engine idle power use ) which is fine looking at the alternator charts and documentation from the ford documents of RPM vs Alternator output = temperature. I also have a thermal camera so I have tested the Alternator temperature at the end of these 30 minutes tests when I have the van idling . It’s was 70c at max which is miles within safe amounts. you couldn’t do this with something like a 110A alternator which a popular is some older models of vans

[@JackDaniels85-4x4Vandura]

You put a lot of work into that. Nice job.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Thank you for Saying so

[@TRAVISGOLDIE]

Did your Freind ever decide on selling these 3d printed parts?

[@OldExodus]

I was going to ask the same thing because I would like to order the active cooking vent kit

[@chrisb5839]

Are the fans still making a difference with the door shut? Surely there's nowhere for all that hot air to escape? 🤔

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

The entire cabinet has intake and exhaust port with its own fan, extracting heat from the cabinet

[@Alivefrom45]

Hey Alex, great video, the kit sounds like a great idea.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Thank you very much

[@-King-G-]

This is just what I want! Mine gets so hot I can’t touch it and it drops to 19-23amps. Do you sell the kits? Or even the files so I can 3d print it myself?

[@StansE250]

Tried scrolling through Comments, didn’t see and hope that I’m not repeating; but, are the cooling fans simply On/Off, or thermostatically controlled ? If your Alt is putting out, say 40A, does having Two units taking that (divided) Alt output and getting more Amps in to the batteries ? Sorry, probably remedial, I just am not clear … if Alt is putting out 40A, isn’t the max that will get To the Bank 40A ? Great vid. Subscribed

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

On or off. In my cases trigged by a vans ignition being on ( if the ignition is on then the engine is running and chargers can be on ). Whilst it would be easily achievable to use a temperature controlled relay to turn the fans on and off. Generally I saw it as unnecessary because the units are going to overheat regardless. might as well just have the fans on the entire time the units are on. It’s not as simple as just what the alternator is doing as the starter battery in also in the system. Normal the used need about 32A on the into size to output 30A ( efficiency looses ) . Having two used would be 64A in and 60A ( higher output, higher input ). Having a high out alternator is important as if the draw of the units was higher than what the alternator was producing then energy will also be taken from starter battery. And you don’t want to discharge the starter. Hope that helps.

[@Awatchandy]

I have seen these mounted in all sorts of location and say about the Heat issue, do you know if they can be mounted outside, as in under a van within one of the deep voids where it would already be generally be protected and could partially be sealed off from any minimal splashes? Just thought I’d ask the sort of question that others might not have thought of, Would be interested in your thoughts?

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Definitely most issues I see with these units are heat related because people have put them in the back of cupboards right next to the top so no ventilation. As for putting it somewhere outside, I guess there is a potential option if it’s sheltered, but my main worry would be the terminals at the bottom are very close together and have no type of water ceiling or/prevention.