Motorcycle suspension, springs, what you need to know

Suspension can be a complex topic but before you randomly start buying parts, paying others to make changes or worse yet do nothing you need to watch this video. This is the first of a series of videos I will be producing that not only teaches you skills like setting sag and adjusting your rebound and compression but also to understand why and how to do it. Hiring a professional to build suspension is a good investment but if you don't understand it you may ask for something you don't really want or need.
Photo references from Race Tech's Motorcycle Suspension Bible
Enjoy...
Bret Tkacs~

[@danmanthe9335]

I need to go to one of your classes. KZbin is great, but I definitely need more

[@mattklaski2398]

Yeah, same here

[@averageguyadventures]

Me (Needing to wake up at 0430): "I need to go to slee..." KZbin: "Bret Tkacs uploaded." Me: "I'll sleep at work."

[@BretTkacs]

🤣

[@IngOehman]

As a physicist, I'm happy to see that you mention a lot of forgotten (or newer known by the general public) properties of a suspension system. 👍 Like the intrinsically progressive nature of the encapsulated air (due to both the adiabatic nature of the air and of coarse the geometrically 1/x-factor*) as well as the differenses regarding space used up by low cost spring with thicker wires and many turns. Regarding the last factor, it is perhaps worth the effort to add, that the issue is not E-module (all steel qualities are basically the same, ~200GPa) but the elasticity range, i.e. the deformation range where plastic deformation is avoided. Different steel qualities are quite different thusly. But one thing you got wrong - a linear spring is storing 4 times the energi when compressed 2 cm compared to 1 cm, and 9 times more when compressed 3 cm’s. You seems to confuse energy and force in the video. The spring-constant k is in fact a constant (N/m) if the spring is linear, so (as you are correctly stating) it takes twice the FORCE (not energy!) to compress a spring 2 cm’s than to compress it 1 cm. But the energy to compress it twice as long is quadruple. The energy (=work) is force times distance, and in this case you can integrate the force along the distance (that doubles to reach a twice as big peak force) and find the area Of the second half of the travel to be tree times lager, summing up to four times. Best regards, hugo *The spring “constant” of an bike-pump air spring is proportional to 1/(remaining travel), so it basically grows to infinity (if it has flat piston and a flat cylinder head). So an air spring is often a good way of avoiding a harsh bottoming out.

[@AbouzarKaboudian]

Awesome video and very informative. I believe these types of videos are absolutely necessary for the general ride. However, I want to make a comment: the energy stored in a linear spring is proportional to the square of displacement. So, if you want to go from 1-inch compression to 2 inches of compression, the energy will quadruple and not just linearly double. What you mean is that the force is linear with displacement. Whatever force is necessary to make 2 inches of displacement will just be double of the force necessary for 1 inch of displacement. The energy is the integral of force times displacement (cause calculus and physics), and hence that square law. (F=kx, and E = 0.5 k x^2 ) Nonetheless, everything else that you mentioned is correct. Cheers!

[@Derkiboi]

Started learning more about the KLR suspension. This video was perfect timing

[@KiLLaDaTa]

Dude, thank you for all your hard work putting these videos together

[@Jmaninaz1]

Awesome video, Bret--I have always found suspension confusing, and this was a good first step in understanding it and the issues that must be considered. Look forward to the next one--thanks!

[@KPL079]

Great explanations Brett. Looking forward to the next session! Ken

[@macexpert7247]

I can’t wait to see the next one!

[@tshansen]

Haha... well, this changed some toughts i had about springs. Thank you mate! Have to go out and fine adjust my own demper. great video Bret

[@paoloaldi1030]

Looked at the t-shirt and thought: “hey this is Anthony from Revzilla watch decide and ride, welcome to the detailed break down of....” but not really 😂😂😂

[@FabioPradoLima]

Same lol

[@redpanda1971]

I was reading that exact page from the Motorcycle Suspension Bible, last night! Your timing is impeccable.

[@verdonrocksphotography3510]

nice overlook of the springs indeed, thank you, cheers V!

[@ecalzo]

i'm here again watching you.. thanks .. i was thinking about changing the springs on my vstrom.. but after a chat with my mechanic and after seeing this video of yours.. i changed my mind ...

[@wfodavid]

I went with the EXPlor Pro forks and TRAXX shock. Expensive but a Game changer if you're a serious rider. Nice Video as always.

[@estebanroman8897]

Great video! People often overlook suspension because it is a complex topic; but you are explaining it in a very easy way. Please keep making videos like this

[@bacsko]

Great video, and the video quality is getting better and better, nice job.

[@Max-jj1nc]

Enjoyed this one. Cheers Bret

[@teneretraveller8980]

Can't wait for the next one. The 'suspense' is too much. Seriously, this is great stuff. Thank you Happy travels

[@simemo75]

Thanks Bret! I adjusted the preload of my bike (Versys-x 300), and made a huge difference in riding on and off-road. I feel in more control of the bike and it feels planted on the twisties...

[@allenhuling598]

Well done, thanks Brett!

[@atlas3863]

i’m glad i ran into this video👍 the RACE TECH website is pretty awesome! just ordered the correct springs for my weight. my GL1800 has no preload adjuster‘s or any other adjustment for that matter. the front end feels like mush and that’s after a complete fork rebuild with slightly heavier oil it doesn’t take much to bottom out the forks. maybe it’s just me trying to turn apples into oranges... the goldwing is my first cruiser always rode sport bikes before this and was always able to make adjustments to get me by without changing much except for maybe fork oil viscosity. can’t wait to get my new springs to help my floating couch feel more planted😎

[@FG-lv3sg]

Another great, class Bret ! There is no point in having a great bike if the suspensions are unregulated or don't work as they should. Perfect! ...Cheers!

[@duffbiker]

Im looking forward to the next vid!

[@dahveed284]

Thank you for addressing "dark art" known as the suspension. Setting the bike up correctly is the first step in being a better rider on and off road. I'm looking forward to the next in your suspension series. The suspense of the suspension series is killing me... lol.

[@BretTkacs]

mototrekraw.wordpress.com/

[@searchingfor6thgear44]

Thanks, Bret. Before I gifted my KLR to one of our sons I did the budget suspension upgrade (progressive up front, Top Gun shock rebuild and spring for the rear). Cogent was too rich for my blood. Still, made a significant improvement on the bike. Now I'm on a KTM 690 Enduro. Worlds of difference between 1980s suspension technology on the KLR and the KTM's suspension. I am not smart on how to adjust the settings. Hoping to learn more. Keep 'em coming!

[@jacobjp5799]

you are correct @BretTkacs on Racetech springs, it is stronger than expected .85 lbs/inch = .90lbs/inch. 😄😀😃

[@rayehanson6249]

Just the video I was needing. Thanks!

[@GORidingADV]

Great video Bret. My next investment on my KLE is to put on the front suspension progressive springs. For sure worth the money.

[@robdefire4747]

I concur with the Racetech site, I drop a rate or 2 as well.

[@EmonsM]

🥁It spoke to you: Mr. Bret Tkacs, Prof. cM. AH. eT. 🙌🏼 (Professor of cool motorcycles, adventure humor and exciting technology) Thanks for your new video Bret! Adventurist-Greetings from Germany!

[@jdhsingi]

Great information...thanks for sharing.

[@sercio994]

Just an awesome video, thank you very much!!

[@gsfrel]

Dude, I really love your videos and think your explantations are spot on. Both accurate and easy to unserstand. This time I feel you "dropped the ball" a bit. I understand a bit regarding suspension and preload, but in my opinion your explanation was a bit too shallow and inaccurate. If I didn't have prior knowledge, I don't think I would understand the issue correctly after this movie. Some subjects are more complex, and skimming over them, showing bits of graphs here and there, doesn't do them justice. I'd suggest, as a long time subscriber, to keep up the high accurate level of explanations. I think it will benifit your channel, and us viewers, in the long run.

[@BretTkacs]

Even if I covered it all I would lose most people. I taught a simple suspension class for the military and when I taught Total Control classes. I also taught full day suspension classes. My plan is to offer lessons in digestible chunks to avoid the delicious complexities of the subject. If they understand the basic concepts, then I can teach the simple task of free sag, rider sag, base lining damping and fine tuning

[@robdefire4747]

@@BretTkacs agree 100%. When I deep dive with folk on suspension you can see the will to live leave there eyes.

[@rabbigabrielbenor6795]

@@robdefire4747 I'd love to sit through it...

[@maxdebayser3856]

Thanks for the great explanation. One of my bikes is a scooter and its suspension ill suited for the road conditions here and the weight I put on it. I always wondered what I could do to improve that because its a great bike for commuting and errands.

[@mmazz30]

Great info Bret, I set my sag/ride height on my 16 AT and the stock rate is too soft even for my 79kg body. I've wanted to go the heavier rate to make it handle better/properly and get correct sag/ride but whats stopping me is getting my foot down at traffic lights being 5'6 and a bit even with lower setting and the lower seat option.....decisions decisions.....great video!

[@rayshobbyfarm.1019]

Need to see this one again.... 😜 But can't wait for part 2. This is, in my opinion, one of the most understood subjects of motorcycle riding. Keep it up Bret

[@rabbigabrielbenor6795]

Least understood, to me...

[@mercenex6329]

Thank you for the explanation!

[@edgarbleikur1929]

Very concise and to the point, well done in under 10 despite the critics pacing up and down the bleachers...

[@PennsylvaniaDualSport]

I’m fond of the conventional dampening rod fork. Reason being when I first got an enduro bike (Beta) and it had a million clicks in each direction I found the need to constantly play with it thus more often than not I wasn’t happy with its performance. A proper spring rate and some emulators with no external adjustments means I can’t mess anything up LOL! DR650 for the win!

[@pitot03a]

Thanks for your videos Brett, love them! What is your personnal spring rate, front and rear? How did you manage to find the right number? How to choose a spring rate that covers both my enduro ride solo till the heavy load with my passenger and luggage? Lots of questions but so interesting! Good luck with your rear brake issue. Let us know how it turns!

[@tahoehiker]

Good info as usual. I'm also curious what tires you chose to replace the Karoo 3's.

[@danielklopp7007]

Your assertion that preload doesn't change spring rate is only true for straight-rate coil springs. Progressively wound coil springs change their rate as the more tightly wound coils bind (i.e. the whole point to a progressively wound coil spring). If preload binds some of the more tightly wound coils, then the spring rate changes. I think this is easier to visualize when you think of a coil spring as a wound-up torsion bar. If you shorten a torsion-bar (made of constant diameter wire), the spring rate goes up. When a progressively wound coil spring starts to bind, it is effectively making the torsion-bar shorter.

"In facts it's probably one of the cheapest yet the most effective improvement you can make for performance of your motorcycle (7:38)". How true this is! That fact actually manifested itself as much as it could in the latest video by Ari and Zack's video on Revzilla (v=q0O8Q0x38mI), which has shown without a doubt that a simple 100-bucks worth of update to the suspension of a 15-years--old bike can have such a significant effect. Kudos to you Bret, love these super impressive and informing videos that bring a really knowledge perspective for us mere mortals like me.

[@88adventures]

It would be awesome if you could do a short video for new adventure riders wanting to take a riding course like yours. Just started offroad riding a month ago, and enjoy all your videos. Thanks for all the great content, from a fellow Washingtonian.

[@BretTkacs]

Please be more specific...

[@88adventures]

Suggested gear would be great.

[@Invis_Space]

@9:05 I love lamp.

[@pauloconnor7951]

Agree with you on the Raceteck :(

[@AndrewBoundy]

The issue is, two-up and travel. The spring for me (200lbs) and a passenger (say 150lbs) and bags (say 50lbs) are all different. That's 150/200 lbs variaiton and as you aptly demo'd, KTM spread is 22lbs (I've had a bigger lunches than that). Nobody changes springs all the time - we use pre-load. Thus, finding a great spring is only really doable on a performance machine that is used for one purpose (IMHO of course).

[@tannerhawes6890]

I had that exact pogo stick like 14 years ago

[@jasondunn8894]

Thanks for shedding some light on the mysterious world of suspension Brett. Looking forward to the next installment. Can I ask what the book was that was in your video?

[@BretTkacs]

It's in the notes... Race Tech's Suspension bible

[@BretTkacs]

One of many books I own 😉

[@jasondunn8894]

Cheers 🙂

[@TheJmebe]

I think there are a couple of errors in your description? The variable rate spring - the tighter coiled section will require more force to compress a given distance, not less. Preload - as you explained, adding preload doesn't change spring stiffness. As more preload is added the higher the bike will sit until such point that the suspension is fully extended. At this point when the rider sits on the bike it will still sag slightly. The weight of the rider would only need to 'overcome" the installed preload if the preload had been added beyond the point that the suspension had been fully extended under the weight of the bike without a rider. In other words, to have have bike upright and level under its own weight it requires 150 lbs of preload (still giving the bike some sag under its own weight), the rider can weigh anything and would still add further sag - the rider doesn't need to weigh 151 lbs to overcome the 150 lbs of preload.

[@danielklopp7007]

@Jamie B: Your assertion that the more tightly wound coils of a progressive coil spring require more force is incorrect. All coils require the same force to compress, until the point of "coil bind" (i.e. when the coils touch). The more tightly wound coils bind first, thus increasing the spring rate (this is the whole point to progressively wound springs)! It may be helpful if you think of a coil spring as a torsion spring. All other things being equal (i.e. metallurgy & diameter) a shorter torsion spring has a higher spring-rate than a longer one. When coils bind on a coil spring, they are removed from the effective length of the spring (thus increasing the spring rate).

[@basiljohnthomas1966]

Hi Bret, would you recommend a front suspension with more travel for royal enfield Himalayan. Pressurised separation type suspension suitable ?

[@robpinter5431]

Setting the correct spring rate to match "Sag" is important as it also affects steering geometry between the front and rear wheel, that is high speed stability or cornering sharpness, all good if you are riding a enduro or race bike, how about when you ride an ADV bike that is loaded with gear does the same principles apply?

[@BretTkacs]

Even more so because we also have load challenges on traveling bikes

[@giuliobuccini208]

Hi Bret, I would like to know your opinion about the italian AirTender system for the rear shock absorber. It is not cheap, but everbody who mounted it had a big smile on the face. Too good to be true?

[@mvjoshi]

Superb video. Please do one for the rear suspension springs too. I am 198 lbs without any gear and yet, my Versys 650 rear suspension is too hard for me. Have dialled in the max (16 turns) to min (1 turn) preload on the remote dual and tested it on bad roads, trails etc but no joy. What are your suggestions for modify the rear strut?

[@BretTkacs]

Your spring is to light, you need a higher spring rate to match your body mass 😁👍 Do both ends together

[@TheINDIAN]

Bret won't it be better if the throttle was a trigger type like a surgical drill linear movement not like a chainsaw. In order to eliminate arm pump and have very precise throttle feel and faster modulation. As the wrist and hand is very poor in providing strength ,support and continuous accurate input for long periods. If one can't master throttle control with a twist grip won't that hinder riding control and increase crashing chances. And what is your opinion on double RHS master cylinder brakes for front and rear with option to combine and control brake bias.

[@richardbonner1176]

Cracking Vid, well explained, though you do know you have viewers in the UK, what are these strange things you speak of, Ib, inches, LOL, cm & kg as well please!

[@CommieHunter7]

Sometimes, the act of setting the rear sag will help you identify whether you have the correct rear spring or not. If you get the right sag but you've used 100% of the preload in your shock, you likely need a heavier spring.

[@BretTkacs]

True... I will cover sag in a later video

[@calin7017]

I have a Honda Africa Twin 1993 XRV 750 RD07. Does anyone knows how to adjust the sag when carry a passenger or extra load? I looked all over the internet, but I haven't been able to find anything. It has a damper to make softer or harder, but should I adjust the length of the spring as well? The spring has an washer with notches, but should I touch it? Also, since I adjust the back should I adjust the front too? It has air knobs. Appreciate any suggestion, thanks.

[@IngOehman]

PS. Actually, the progressive nature of both air springs and some helix (sometimes wrongly called spirals) springs, is a potential problem, due to resonans-characteristics of the system. In a suspension system one often strives to reach something close to a critically damped system (Q=0,5), i.e. a system that does not resonate, but having the spring grow stiffer makes the damping insufficient. That is one of the good properties from progressive linkages - letting both transformed spring stiffness and damping grow with the progressive rate, but in fact a suspension with a linear spring and only progressive damping (more Ns/m at higher compression) often works even better, but is more complicated to do. The valves can be modulated by the compression position of the damper. I’m of coarse simplifying, and do ignore in the above that a motorcycle suspension typically is not only unlinear (progressive) but also typically have different damping characteristics during compression and return. But one thing at a time...

[@brawn800]

So you as a rider alone are right in the upper end of the stock settings for the KTM. Now how do you compensate for the weight of the luggage and how far back it sits on the motorcycle?

[@mobydick126]

Hi Bret, thanks for your videos. I am allways following. So much to learn. For a soft off road, easy pace, but heavy rider in a stock Africa Twin (crf1000L manual 2016), do you recomend upgrading with progressive springs (as Hyperpro) or linear, as Cogent or teknic? Thanks.

[@BretTkacs]

I always recommend to match the springs to the rider. But specifically to your weight, not just "heavier springs"

[@mobydick126]

Thanks.👍

[@stefanmajonez6571]

You mentioned straight rate, dual rate and progressive springs. Could you say which is best, or rather which is most appropriate for certain uses? Also, are those spring types also available for rear suspension? I'm buying a DR650 to turn into an adv, and I'd like to set it up as best I can for a commuter and weekend/holiday offroad bike. Thanks!

[@BretTkacs]

They are all the "best" in the right application. It's the mission, environment and rider that determine which is best

[@marcusgeorge1825]

The spring is just one component. Which, factory wise isn’t really adjustable for suspensions without preload, compression and rebound damper settings. OEM settings a very cheap and basic. Without the need to change springs you can simply change the oil on your front works for your individual weight bias. Much cheaper than changing springs.

[@jamesriley4857]

I ride a DR650 with stock springs and if finesse rather than speed is the goal especially when it gets technical that setup is a lot of fun. Or am I justifying being cheap lol

[@markphipps8655]

Yep, on shaft drive bikes the rear suspension DOES rise up under acceleration but only from the torque of the shaft. That is contrary to good handling but less of a problem than the rear squat under deceleration caused by the shaft. That is why a shaft drive does NOT BELONG on a motorcycle. It is contrary to good handling and therefore safety! Belts were used first and are by far the best drive line for bikes followed by chains. They allow the suspension to shift the weight properly for proper handling.

[@manu-vv8pc]

Great video!!! Very educational, what would be the case of my 1250 gs that has this smart suspension, but I honestly feel it is too harsh. Could I change the spring without messing up the ESA computer?

[@BretTkacs]

The answer is "that depends"... Suspension is a complex thing. The computer programs make it more complicated. Many of us eliminate thd ESA and go manual with full adjustability. For most riders that is a step too far though

[@manu-vv8pc]

@@BretTkacs thanks for the answer, maybe it is better to get a less complicated bike and upgrade the suspension like the 790 adv

[@cyclopathic998]

Bret WOW! You don't see people identifying dual rate springs correctly; most call them "progressive" perhaps because that's what Progressive company sells. As for dual rate springs they're usually designed with balance point at rate switch so they act as higher rate on compression when wheel hit bump and lower on rebound when wheel drops into pothole. Later helps to maintain wheel in contact as pressure exerted on downward moving wheel drops at lower rate. And the true progressive (also called variable rate) like HyperPro are the best for ADV application as they cope with various loads better than single or dual rate. Would be nice if air springs were still around with exception of a few experiments like Honda CRF you have to go back to 90s to get them. To bad they would be good application for ADV bikes I still have ZX600 shock laying somewhere around but it is too short for modern bikes..

[@BretTkacs]

Technically most suspension still uses an "air spring" in complement with a mechanical spring. Not sure if I know an exception to this off the top of my head. Even emulsion shocks still have a nitrogen charge with a bladder

[@cyclopathic998]

@@BretTkacs IIRC a few years back Honda went to air spring on CRF450X for a year or two.. and I could be wrong KTM had it on dirt bikes? As for rear shocks nitrogen pressure in them doesn't work as spring.. the air in forks however does that's why level of oil is important. I had replaced springs in forks once without checking level. They were thicker and oil level went up. Needless to say forks became very stiff on big bumps my bad.

[@whatsgoingon71]

Yo Bret! Anthony from Revzilla wants his shirt back.

[@Crust2013]

Bret what's the riders sag ,front and rear for a ,1090R?

[@motojockeyph9023]

Can i ask what book is that and where to purchase?

[@brandonfontaine285]

Race tech has no info on 2019 vstrom 1000xt. Anyone have a resource or anything?

[@luck02]

Hi Bret, I'm wondering why we don't see aftermarket springs in racetech for the 1250's

[@BretTkacs]

I don't know that answer but maybe there is no real market. I suspect GS boxer riders either swap shocks or stay stock. The Tractive shocks get springs for your weight although they seldom re spring the front.

[@HeadUpKneeDown]

I installing K-tech springs in my Africa Twin 1100 forks and now the sag measures 30% with zero preload.

[@BretTkacs]

Perfect

[@jonoz9847]

Too late.. Literally just finished putting my Super Plush 990 lift in on the 1st. I'm not mad about it either. Lincoln Town Car on the road and Trophy Truck off the road!

[@Jmort93]

I know he’s part of Mototrek but how does he only have 24k subscribers?!

[@BretTkacs]

I am not part of Mototrek anymore. Too many good subjects like this to cover... I like having the opportunity to be more connected to the viewer. Spread the word and the channel will grow faster 😉👍

[@chrishall734]

Very interesting video. I’m actually having suspension issues with my bmw F700gs. The front forks are sending through too much shock from bumps in the road. Sort of a damping issue. Not sure what to try to fix the issue?

[@ethermal1]

Too fast rebound. Try finding your rebound setting and setting it softer/slower. On dirt bikes this is on the bottom of the fork

[@chrishall734]

Thanks ethermal1 but there’s no adjustment on my forks whatsoever. It happened ever since I drove a bumpy green lane, there’s no oil leakage and the forks appear good, but damping is terrible.

[@BretTkacs]

@@chrishall734 spring it for your weight and add a set of gold valve emulators from Race Tech

[@Crazy-Chicken-Media]

would this apply to motorcycles that have automatic Suspensions? ie 2018 Tiger 1200 XRx.

[@BretTkacs]

Yep

[@89siver]

Which book was that at the begin of the video?

[@luisbraz-ruivo]

Which publication is the one you used to show the graphic pics from a book?

[@donkeizluv]

same question

[@ianferrier235]

Hey Bret, my wife has a 2015 tw200, it's way to stiff in the rear, has zero adjustment, what can we do change that? Appreciate your input thanks.

[@BretTkacs]

Only one option... Change the spring to match her bodyweight

[@ianferrier235]

@@BretTkacs can you recommend a shop that would have such a spring? Thanks again Brett

[@glencaines948]

I already changed them. Should I take them back out before watching this?

[@BretTkacs]

Maybe 😉

[@tuanoful]

I have a vstrom 650xt, when I ride with luggage and the wife, i;m hitting the skidplate on speed bumps, its really annoying. what spring should I get?

[@BretTkacs]

That depends on how much gear you carry and how much the two of you weigh

[@tuanoful]

@@BretTkacs I'd say around 210kilos luggage, gear and us. When I ride alone just for the day, it's about 100kilos I don't have a center stand to measure sag, and im mechanically challenged. I just thought, since I ride solo at 100 kilos and with wife and luggage at 200 kilos, I'd get a stiffer spring that can manage both ends. I know it's not ideal, but I don't want to have to buy and switch springs constantly.

[@petergruppo5195]

Great video Bret! Looks like you packed on a few pounds during quarantine!

[@BretTkacs]

Being almost 50 doesn't help either...

[@petergruppo5195]

Bret Tkacs if look like you at that age i will be very happy! Keep up the great work! Greetings from Brazil

[@jameshinchcliffe4333]

Is there gonna be a video on KTM rear brakes?

[@BretTkacs]

When it's all settled...

[@edgarbleikur1929]

Ouch...

[@AbdurrahmanZedSaeed]

what book you had there sir? might need to take a look of it

[@BretTkacs]

Race Tech's Motorcycle Suspension Bible

[@AbdurrahmanZedSaeed]

@@BretTkacs okay, thank you very much sir

[@Doctoberfest]

Did you get a new camera? Video looks nice a crispy!

[@BretTkacs]

That is my Sony a6300 with an F4 18/135 lens. Mostly it was perfect lighting

[@Doctoberfest]

@@BretTkacs oooo mirrorless, I've been eyeballing those for a while for astrophotography! Nice set up you got!

[@charliem5332]

😲🤷🏼‍♂️😕🤯

[@BretTkacs]

😂

[@3goldfinger]

How do you know if your springs are no good?

[@BretTkacs]

Old or wrong spring rate?

[@ATTESAfr]

“We will talk about oil and orifices” ☺️

[@UncleWally3]

If I’m representative of most viewers, beyond twisting a throttle and shifting gears to make wheels turn, I wouldn’t over estimate what’s already known about how a motorcycle works. For example, my suspension question: Why do fork seals always start to leak when furthest away from home?

[@josereal3780]

I’ve decided, the best improvement for performance that will make the biggest difference is my 220lb self to loose 30lbs

[@RidingWithGerdas]

True that..

[@galynnedavis2996]

Ack! RaceTech doesn't have the darned KTM 790's in their Spring Rate tool. F A I L. 😂

[@BretTkacs]

😕

[@johnboy2251]

I cant turn on notifications. It says its unavailable on content made for children.

[@BretTkacs]

Nothing is marked made for children. If you have been a follower for a long time you may need to un subscribe and the subscribe again. It's a KZbin glitch from a recent change

[@strokenumber3]

Hope that wasn't a KTM pogo stick ...

[@f18a]

A good PSA but the info is only 90% accurate -- certainly good enough though. (It's a complex topic, is difficult to explain, and the internet/forums perpetuate lots of myth.) No, I'm not going to debate point by point.

[@BretTkacs]

I wouldn't know about the forums... I prefer to talk to people like Paul Thede who are way smarter than me about this.

[@ankuraggarwal7812]

Bret u have put on some weight

[@BretTkacs]

Covid-19 is a wonderful thing... 😕, no gym and being near 50 is a bad combo

[@SheenHunter-SeattleFreeze]

Motorcycles are far more complex than longboards.

[@rondg2]

anti-squat has nothing to do w/ springs. in fact you don't even have to take into account spring weight when doing anti-squat calculations. anti-squat is the result of swingarm and chain pull angles. so do actually read tony foale instead of just showing pages from it

[@BretTkacs]

How is it that springs aren't critical to that since the amount of initial squat is determined by the angle of the swingarm? Springs establish the ride height along with load and dynamic factors.

[@rondg2]

@@BretTkacs it's technical. like i said it's the geometry that produces anti-squat, such that when the chain is pulled by the front sprocket the swingarm doesn't have the tendency to compress. imagine having the countershaft right under your butt, it's easy to see how chain pull would compress the swingarm, which is called pro-squat

[@XoWang]

@@BretTkacs "initial squat" as in the static ride height at rest? If so, indeed anti-squat is unrelated in that it only acts due to the force and direction the transmission pulls on the chain relative to the swingarm and pivot (i.e. geometry as the other commenter mentioned).

[@pverdone]

Very very sloppy terminology used here. Ought to clean that up.