MOTORKOTE VS TURBO MAXX BRASS FRICTION TEST

[@CharlesBerryamericanlinkage]

Motor kote is what I recommend on my company pick up trucks we get 500,000 miles on the engines 6.0 v 8 and with a big diesel turbo charged tractor trailers fleet we get 1,000,000 miles on the engines we use Cummins motors we don’t use anything else but Motor kote and Rotella T for oil !

[@weekendwrench]

Nicely done!! No bs no explanation no wasting time. Straight testing. Boom 💥. Subbed thanks man.

[@daniellang6112]

did you shake these products? (motorkote)

[@jamesbranham2217]

I will stick with motorkote.. I've been using it for about 2 decades.. truckers use it.. I have a riding mower with 2100 hours at minimum on it and runs like a champ.. 07 impala 185k runs perfect..

[@twinforce_fusion6560]

Thanks for the test, I use both of them. I use the MotoKote on the N/A engines and the TMaxx on the turbocharger engines. Very glad of the results and glad I've been using these products for years.

[@frankjschmidt6493]

Good job, now you can keep your job...

[@a.joegevara3519]

I've done about 3 oil changes since using turbo maxx, I just ordered more for my next oil change!

[@josephwinner5376]

Did you sand the Motorkote off before testing the pther product? Even brake cleaner doesn't remote motorkote ¡!!

[@javiergonzalez6920]

Ups! I think he stared using Turbo max. What video does you see.😂😂😂.

[@lukeav6097]

Would be nice to see an oil only test as well

[@aterack833]

Was it just me or was the mixing period for motorkote shorter?

[@eby6114]

There's a 3 minute break in period that would have supplemented it. Also you can tell he was still in fast forward mode when mixing by the cameras speed

[@davelevy4394]

Bought 4 bottles (2oz each) of Turbo Maxx, added two bottles (4 oz) to my 7 quart crankcase (5.7l Hemi in a RAM 1500). The Turbo Maxx liquid is black, dirty, and looks like VERY used oil. My only expectation was to see a few degrees drop in oil temperature. Was not expecting better mileage nor quieter running. Oil temp is exactly the same as without this SNAKE OIL. Ran for 3,000 miles, changed the oil, added last two bottles (4 oz) and ran another 3,000 miles, no change in oil temps, gas mileage, nor noises. Contacted the company to ask what I SHOULD be seeing as a difference, no reply. It's been two weeks since I emailed them. Running Mobil 1 synthetic oil, in a 5.7l Hemi, 2022 Ram 1500, with low miles (under 30K).

[@tomasnokechtesledger1786]

You're the guy who makes the Turbo Maxx, right? Why its so thick?

[@josephwinner5376]

Didn't shake the Motorkote, and sanded the spinning race which completely skews the test because it's a much higher micro finish after sanding...

[@TacticalTrucker]

I’ll just use them both

[@latemreggadable]

don't know if you shook the products nor did you sand on the wheel before you went between the two tests motor kote has to be sanded off . project farm convinced me on motorkote

[@blazingverde]

Motorkote was the second one tested

[@thebeddoctor4273]

Please find a way to test RVS engine additive. I used the transmission additive, and it really worked great but no information on the engine. Thank you

[@jtugfestiva]

Can you try the new bestline formulation and prolong?? Thank you!!

[@edogsx]

I'll try to satisfy you, I'm saving to buy new products to test, be patient! Prolong will certainly give an excellent result on Timken, the problem with halogenated additives is the stability at high temperatures and the ability to inhibit acid halides ... Thanks for your support!

[@JA-rn5qv]

@@edogsx Would be good to do a heat torcher test of these liquids prior to running the timkin test. Place both liquids in separate glass pots, and heat them to at least 280 F degrees (138 C) for about 8 hours, and then conduct the wear test since quite obviously prolonged exposure to heat is a relevant factor when testing additives meant to be used in motor oil. Another interesting addition to consider would be testing the products diluted in to motor oil at the ratio that is recommended by the manufacturer since that is how it will be used in real life, and some of these additives even state that they need to motor oil base in order to perform properly.

[@edogsx]

@@JA-rn5qv kzbin.info/www/bejne/eIu4dqeKZryGorM

[@danbrown935]

Bought a gal of TK last night for my 13 Ram with 140000 miles on it. Should work just fine. Thx. Was mixing my own borax in the oil but this saves time.

[@vintagespeedshop]

That tester seems very inconsistent when you did the same test motorkote vs engine shield the motorkote only made a 1.9mm mark in this test it made a 3mm mark?

[@edogsx]

there are differences between the two tests, Mk vs Tm I did 3 minutes 1 weight break-in and I performed the test without heating the oil, in Mk vs Es I did 5 minutes no load break-in and I heated the oil at 50°c before starting.

[@jetdr]

Have you tested Archoil?

[@sengsythao1896]

Good test! I wanted to see this test and finally got to see it. I'm a user of turbomaxx and its great product. Motokote is also good and was thinking getting one to try out as well. Both great products!

[@edogsx]

I'm glad you enjoyed the test! On my channel you can find many others. Soon I will try additives such as militech-1, xado very lube and others ... Subscribe to the channel to be notified of the release of new videos. look at this too: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y2jWgaGqr9uKhaM

[@romeugois8851]

You can test faher HD?

[@gamebredduramax71]

@@edogsx it looked like after you ran the TM and cleaned the spinning wheel you came back with a small piece of sand paper and ran the wheel while sanding the wheel, this would have made the wheel slightly more abrasive with tiny sanding marks causing more damage to the bearing.

[@gamebredduramax71]

@@edogsx it looked like after you ran the TM and cleaned the spinning wheel you came back with a small piece of sand paper and ran the wheel while sanding the wheel, this would have made the wheel slightly more abrasive with tiny sanding marks causing more damage to the bearing.

[@nicholasbeal3140]

I don't know if you're trying to Bamboozled anybody but that is not Motorcoach motor code is purple

[@pookysdad4884]

Ok, you have a bunch of these head to head tests, A vs B, C vs D, etc. Boil it down for me: of ALL the additives tested, which one showed the least wear? Also, why did some tests use 3 (or .3? Your commas confuse me) ml of additive, while others used 5 or 6?

[@dr.john-markcain4946]

TM ES MK What’s the best?

[@TheLonesometoad]

You didn't shake the motorkote

[@edogsx]

Yes, I shake very well all the products before the test

[@daniellang6112]

good call!

[@petershulick5270]

Unfortunately there's no audio up until the 7th minute Mark of the video? And this case will do audio it's useless to have a video? You need to take down the video and replace it with another one that has working audio, since I have no problems with any other KZbin videos with audio it's only this one? Replace the video! The tester did not shake up either of any of the bottles putting the active ingredient sitting on the bottom of the bottle into suspension? According to motorkote, it only takes five seconds to bond to the metal! Does not require 3-minute break in!

[@edogsx]

It is not a defect of the video, the audio is there but nothing is said, my videos are simple tests, the images are sufficient for the purpose which in this case is the comparison of two additives.

[@user-he1xq5jn7e]

Motor kote protection all engines end problems .. never!!!! Only motorkote .. for me!! 375000 km I have ... gasoline engine...

[@boydmerriman]

I just ordered a quart of MK on Amazon this morning, and then found this test. However, even if TM outdid the MK, it is still far more pricey. However, I noticed that you used less of the TM product than you did MK, and TM does slightly better, so in the long run, the TM would be a better deal if you are careful how much you use.

[@billbird3833]

I think weighing the bearing would be more info

[@ronniepirtlejr2606]

Motorkote and prolong. You can't go wrong with them!

[@JA-rn5qv]

But TurboMaxx consistently beat both of the products you mention. Also, both Motorkote and Prolong are based on chlorinated compounds (they deny it but used motor oil analysis with those products always show huge amounts of chlorinated compounds) which under typical engine conditions (extended heat + moisture) can break down in to hydrochloride acid and cause more long term wear on the engine that not using the products. Motor oil companies and gear lube companies both experimented with chlorinated compounds many decades ago, long before any of these oil additive companies existed (such as prolong/motorkote) and in both cases, the motor oil/gear oil companies discontinued the use of the chlorinated compounds because lt was noted after the initial good results, the chlorinated compounds would start to react with the byproducts of the combustion chamber process and produce corrosive components that were much worse to the metal surfaces than than not using those compounds at all. So that is actually old, discredited technology that was abandoned by all reputable motor oil manufacturers and then picked back up by fly-by-night tricksters that would market the substance by demonstrating the EP capabilities of their chlorine formulation using the bearing test device to deceive people who didn't know any better telling them that the results shown by the bearing test would also hold true inside the combustion chamber but without telling the people about the dangers of using the chlorine formula in an internal combustion engine versus on a Timken bearing machine which does not represent the conditions inside the combustion chamber which cause the chlorine formulas to become corrosive over time and damage metal surfaces. These types of chlorinated compound additives will show great results on bearing tests since the chlorinated compound serves as an EP agent under non-reactive situations (ie not under extended periods of high heat fuel dilution, recirculating moisture, other AW/EP agents, blow-by gasses, etc) but once subjected to the condition that occur in the combustion chamber the chlorinated compounds quickly start to break down as the buffering agents start to deplete. lt's like playing a game of Russian Roulette with your engine. A much safer bet are AW/EP formulations that are not based on chlorinated compounds (halogenated hydrocarbons) but that instead use better, more up to date technology such as TurboMaxx, LubeGard BioTech, AutoRX (to name a few non-chlorine alternatives). You can read a bit about the issue at this link - www.tribology.solutions/chlorine.htm

[@tomasnokechtesledger1786]

Chlorinated products ban is way more for environmental issues, than corrosion issue. Engine oil has plenty alcalina reserve to cope with the potential acidification of halogenated hydrocarbon. But some ppl still release used oil on the environment, so the industry cut out the 5% volume of chlorinated parafins on it. Imagine tons of it on the environment can kill much more life than used engine oil.

[@PC_CERTIFIED]

@@JA-rn5qv good to know

[@bigbullet9224]

@@JA-rn5qv tm beat prolong where show me I gotta see this no way

[@JA-rn5qv]

@@bigbullet9224 its on here, look up the video

[@dv7431]

.4mm not even an issue they work the same

[@dennishildner3414]

Not sure of any engin that has this kind brass bearing pressure that is not under oil pump pressure.

[@pookysdad4884]

Sure, but how many engines have brass cams, lifters, timing chains, oil pumps, crank journals, etc?

[@anthonysandoval965]

Thought motorkote was purple?

[@rubenroyer7829]

Your thinking of Royal Purple motor oil.

[@daniellang6112]

thought wrong

[@nicholasbeal3140]

Or just too cheap to buy Motorcoach

[@pookysdad4884]

Boy, these videos are action packed! Riveting! 🙄