MPU Repair On A 1977 Bally Eight Ball Pinball Machine - Prom Jumpers/ Corrosion, Gameplay, Etc...

[@deborahchesser7375]

I’m so glad people still repair these classic machines, they are part of our history and bring back many great memories. Nothing better than being a kid with a pocketful of quarters a mouthful of bubblegum and not a worry in the world. I’d go back in a second

[@LyonsArcade]

Deborah this might have been the exact machine you were playing on back in the day! Thanks for watching...

[@gorillaau]

There is a lot of nostalgia in these machines... and perhaps the occasional spilt drink.

[@alansmith4734]

18:30 As a kid, I loved the Radio Shack Battery Club Card. I'd get a free (Basic) battery every month. The batteries that you have are the deluxe models.

[@LyonsArcade]

That's a pretty good idea, unfortunately they didn't have a ton of Good ideas that worked at the Shack!

[@theoldar]

You are the Michelangelo of playfield painters.

[@LyonsArcade]

I would never claim to be very good at it, there are some folks out there that are perfect at it, they use airbrushes though...

[@aitorbleda8267]

@@LyonsArcade I have seen many videos about that, I have an airbrus and.. the tools do not make the artist.. you do really good for the tools you have, better than me.

[@ellrick]

If not for you and Todd Tuckey, I wouldnt even watch youtube any more. Love your stuff.

[@LyonsArcade]

Thanks man glad to have you!

[@TheGnomestead]

Somebody gonna have a nice Christmas gift there :) Radio shack batteries wow that was when you could buy stuff to make radios!!!!! Thanks for the walk down memory lane :) Thanks man :) 👍👍👍

[@LyonsArcade]

I still think the concept could work as a business they were just doing it all wrong and corporate raiders probably didn't help much. Same issue with Toys R Us.

[@TheGnomestead]

@@LyonsArcade I had a math teacher that worked at night at the local shack. Hours or enjoyment in that place. Got me into electronics and radio. Saw a rise and fall doc on The Shack. Pretty interesting Thanks again my friend for all you do

[@gorillaau]

Out here the Radio Shack brand was sold by Tandy Electronics. Never understood why (nor how) they sold resistors in blister packs... darn expensive. I'm a viewer in Australia.

[@TheGnomestead]

@@gorillaau I am in Alaska and about an hour south there is a true electronics store. Everything from the smallest transistor to commercial towers. I'm a radio guy. Got RF in my blood ;) driving an hour just to walk around and drool beats ordering over the webs. I do miss them ok radio shakes. Curious is to how different they were

[@gorillaau]

@@TheGnomestead These days we have Jaycar (across the country), and more locally Altronics have a good range of commercial and component level electronics. We have lost a few retailers such as Tandy and Dick Smith Electronics over the years but still do okay for weekend projects when you need a 7812 and 7905 voltage regulator in a hurry.

[@robc3056]

the more you watch the more your impresssed cheers Ron

[@LyonsArcade]

Thanks Rob, that's very nice of you to say!

[@danijelcar5184]

Nice playfield on end after repair👍

[@LyonsArcade]

Thanks Danijel we appreciate it man!

[@shadowninja1474]

Thanks for your continued videos Ron. I really have learned quite a bit watching you. There is nothing like when people share their trades with one another. It is truly the greatest gift you can give. My entire family come from generations of tradesmen. Painters, carpenters, electricians, plumbers, welders, and masons. I have learned so much and helped so many passing those trades on. So again thank you for giving me just an extra tool in my minds tool box 🧰 👍

[@LyonsArcade]

Thanks Shadow Ninja, we appreciate the nice thoughts and hope you enjoy the next videos!

[@EsotericArctos]

Sprague are really good capacitors. I would probably still do a series leakage check and ESR check on the capacitor, but more than likely if the voltage and ripple is good on the 5V line, definitely leave it in place. Those Radio Shack batteries would be pretty ancient by now..... Your description of a "cold joint" is pretty good. The name came from joints that sometimes were soldered with too cool a temperature or that were cooled too quickly, but is generally also used for "cracked" joints as from age as well. A dry joint is termed because it is made without enough flux, so it is "dry" soldered.

[@LyonsArcade]

Thanks Brendan I didn't think about it not being heated enough, that's interesting and explains the terminology!

[@DanGinney]

My father bought me this same model back in the 80's and I still have it! However only works sometimes etc. I'm aware of all the loose connections, caps etc and will be going through it soon. Your videos are extremely helpful.

[@LyonsArcade]

Very cool Dan, yes if you just work through it like I do on these bally mpu videos yours will be exactly the same. Good luck with it!

[@MidnightVisions]

re: cold solder - Yes solder is a combination of materials that all melt at different temperatures. A cold solder joint is when not enough heat is used to heat all parts of the solder, and the component to be soldered and circuit board pad. Over time the flow of electricity will rob electrons from solder, weakening the solder joint, causing cracks over time. as connectors are pulled off this causes old solder joints to crack. On ships zinc anodes are used to prevent the robbing of electrons from ships metal hulls. The zinc being the weakest material is the one that looses the electrons. It is precipitation static (the ship physically moving through the air/water that causes that creates the static electrical movement) that creates the electrical flow through the structure.

[@LyonsArcade]

The 'robbing electrons' thing is what I kind of suspected happens but I didn't know what to call it :) Crazy how there's more going on than meets the eye...

[@tattmanndann]

your paint job looks great!

[@LyonsArcade]

Thanks we appreciate that... it was decent!

[@tcb8295]

Great work as usual Ron. Thanks for the video.

[@MasatoKay]

Cold solder joint is also when the pin and/or the pad are not heated up enough to be joined by the solder

[@LyonsArcade]

That makes sense, thanks Masato!

[@Jeroen_a]

"we're beginning the 3th video right in the middle of the second video" .... This is P-inception! :)

[@LyonsArcade]

Yup! I was trying to explain inception to My Brother Donnie the other day...

[@keithcitizen4855]

Talking about cold solder joints, I dropped my tv remote control and it was enough to break the connection at the led on visual inspection it looked like plenty of solder used and nothing wrong but it it seems the PCB was heat insulated by flux during soldering, can just imagine the factory pushing their workers to fulfill quotas.

[@Paddington2000]

So, it's not that the lead and the tin separate out from the solder alloy to form a cold solder joint, it's when insufficient heat is applied to the component and pad that the solder doesn't flow properly and or, the joint has been disturber before it has had time to solidify properly making the solder on the joint crystalline (matt grey in appearance) and therefore brittle which also has a higher resistance, this can cause the joint to run warm, the continuous heat/cool cycling causes thermal stress which leads to work hardening of the joint followed by a fracture and premature failure. The problem with the header pins failing is just stress and fatigue through many mate/un-mate cycles of the connector causing the joint to work harden and fracture or crack prematurely.

[@LyonsArcade]

Thank you!

[@Sunsetdrivein]

On those score displays, any time I find any of the R1, R3, R5, R7, R9, R11, R13 bad and they are originals, I replace all of them with half watters. This prevents a "callback" service call on the displays.

[@LyonsArcade]

Definitely a good idea!

[@petermichaelgreen]

BTW you can get 0.6W metal film resistors that are the same size as 1/4 carbon films. Might make for a neater job.

[@danieltiemeyer3234]

O.o had a Williams Road Kings that the G I would go dark. Tap the relay on power supply, G I is back. Then quits. I pull power supply and all solder looks good. I put back in. Problem continues. I pull power supply again, and was a cold solder that looked fine. Resoldered and never saw that problem again.

[@LyonsArcade]

Yeah I honestly think sometimes the chemical components or minerals are separated in the solder enough that it won't conduct electricity but looks fine...

[@pcachu]

The world will be a sadder and dimmer place when the last of those old plasma displays finally dies.

[@LyonsArcade]

Tell me about it!

[@aitorbleda8267]

@@dangermartin69 Not really.. OLED are better, but LEDS.. meh..

[@scottmccann]

Another very enjoyable video Ron. I see you have a Stars... is it next up for some love?

[@LyonsArcade]

Yup, starting tomorrow, see you then!

[@xenodaemon]

Be aware that with less voltage applied to the displays, they will draw a little more current. Might be an issue with a fuse or resistor, but hopefully, it will be within allowances.

[@harryhall5092]

Wurlitzer 1080 on the other side, before they did the shows with the Seeburg G100 that Fonze beat on sometimes!

[@russellhltn1396]

A cold solder joint is a defect in soldering. It's either a manufacturing error or a bad repair. What you're talking about is cracked solder joints. Those happen from mechanical stress or thermal cycling.

[@PlumGurly]

Yeah, cold solder joints can have multiple causes. Usually, that is due to sloppy soldering, but yeah, physical stress can cause a similar phenomenon. A reemerging problem is "solder whiskers." With time, certain materials will "grow" protrusions. Adding lead to solder helped prevent that somehow (scientists don't really know what causes this, though physical and electrical stresses seem to contribute). Well, with ROHS laws in EU countries, lead solder is being phased out. So whiskers are starting to return. The problem with those is that they create solder bridges over time. And yeah, Radio Shack batteries are rather old, though admittedly, Radio Shack had good batteries. Around Christmas was always great for their batteries, and some even seemed a tad over the voltage. So my guess was that they were just made, so there was no shelf wear at all. I mean, flashlights seemed to be brighter, toy cars a little faster, etc.

[@DigitalConfusion]

looking good.

[@LyonsArcade]

Thankd DigitalConfusion we appreciate you watching!

[@saljoecastilloneso]

Hey Joe, Just wanted to you know your 1min and 18 seconds in on your video you said all your lights are working. But your number 11 light is out on your top lane. 😉

[@gorillaau]

I was wondering if someone was going to say that. Yes, all the lights are working, except for that one... and that one. But apart from that all lights are working.

[@PaulHuininken]

Good thing.

[@LyonsArcade]

Thanks Paul!

[@kathleenoakes3005]

Heyyy, couldn’t see where you adjusted the voltage for the displays and where did you hook up the the test leads. Thanks

[@timothyharkness8489]

This would be cool if they had the pinball, ball look like maybe either like the 8-ball or 6 ball or 9 ball make it look like a pool ball.

[@LyonsArcade]

They do make some like that believe it or not!

[@waynegram8907]

JOES CLASSIC, why does the voltage rise higher when the power supply components are going bad, what is causing that issue? The displays should have 220VAC or 220VDC at all times because the factor connectors on the PCB get burned up because the voltage is at 220vdc which the PCB connectors and display connectors aren't rated for voltage at 220VDC?

[@matthewbarry4464]

Maybe it was just me, but I always hated Arnold's Diner in Happy Days because they had a Bally "Nip It" pinball machine which wouldn't be invented for another 20 years.

[@Jeroen_a]

Well.... if you had broken the fuse holder checking it's springiness... "the darn things are so common... i would not even bother that it did break..."(i guess that's what you would say) i mean if it's not needed to repair it even better.... but it seems a wise thing to check, sir :)

[@LyonsArcade]

I keep in a whole bunch of those just in case I break one checking it's springiness :)

[@andymouse]

"what in the hell's going on there ? "...Hahahahahahahahahaha...cheers!

[@Shamino0]

Hi, Ron. I've got a quick question for you. Lots of pinball machines have what appears to be a white light on the front apron, on the left side, above where the instructions card goes. What is that light supposed to be for? I've never once seen it turn on on any pinball machine I've played over the past 40 years.

[@LyonsArcade]

That is a great question. That light is called "The Credit Light"... there was a time when in some areas, pinball machines were illegal because you could win free games on them. Because you could win free games, it was considered a gambling machine in some areas... so the laws were different all over, but in some places it was LEGAL, if you didn't tell people how many credits they had! So the pinball companies tried to make 'work arounds' for that, and one of the things they did was add the credit light on the apron. If the game has a credit on it, that light will light up, but in those particular locations it will not tell you on the backglass how many credits you have, the light just stays on until you run out. The 'logic' behind this was that if you won 5 free games, you could sell them to somebody for a dollar instead of the 1.25 they'd pay to play them, hence you were using the machine to win free money. It's completely crazy but it comes from another time and we have plenty of craziness around now too I guess so I can't really criticize it too much. If you've never seen one on it may be that it only works if the credit display is turned off on the game (there's a dipswitch to turn the credit display off). I'll try to mention it in a video in the future and see if I can get it to turn on.

[@kevinw.3904]

I noticed this... Is the Ground Braid not screwed in from the cabinet to the head?

[@LyonsArcade]

Good catch, if you look harder you will find other things you’re better than me at too you could bring up!

[@timothyharkness8489]

Here's an idea have you ever thought about taking a pinball machine. that is not worth a lot of money and actually turn it into a " Joe's classic " pinball machine?

[@LyonsArcade]

It could be done :)

[@haynguy68]

two arrows on the top have no lights?

[@LyonsArcade]

We specifically mentioned that in the part of the video you skipped :)

[@Lachlant1984]

I hear a slight humming noise that appears to be changing in volume when the lights flash, is that something of concern to you?

[@LyonsArcade]

No

[@Lachlant1984]

@@LyonsArcade What component is producing that noise? Is it a power transformer or something?

[@scottthatcher9086]

What is up with that STARS machine?

[@pinball541]

That is the next machine to be featured on the channel. Ron mentioned previously on the Pin-Bot series that stars was coming soon!👍 Hello from Phoenix Arizona!🔥

[@LyonsArcade]

It gets fixed in 2 minutes!

[@scottthatcher9086]

@@LyonsArcade is it sold yet?

[@PinBallReviewerRepairs]

No one plays a 4 player game he says? Our family is so big here we do home tournaments on all my machines at times and some times have 4 on one and 4 on another so yes 4 player games do get played especially in my large pinball family. That and I see some doing 4 players at gaming conventions. ;)

[@memyopinionsche6610]

Smokey and the bandit?

[@LyonsArcade]

East Bound And Down

[@gorillaau]

Flaccid or limp flippers? Or erect?

[@gorillaau]

Is it just me or there a power supply noise issue? Could also be a "floating" audio amplifier.

[@LyonsArcade]

You guys keep talking about the buzzing, you realize the game has no speaker or audio circuit, right?

[@gorillaau]

@@LyonsArcade oops. Power supply buzzing? It appear to have been coming from somewhere in the backbox.

[@ChucksBasix]

Not exactly what a cold solder joint means... It's usually a weak joint formed when you don't get the components hot enough for the solder to freely flow, and properly attach to both components, thus causing resistance, among other things to happen, and eventually failure of the joint.

[@LyonsArcade]

OK

[@DeadKoby]

I worked at a RadioShack, and it sucked. by 2001, they sold GOLD colored batteries........those are likely from the 90's

[@LyonsArcade]

I'll bet it was fun in the 80's by the late 90's they were just basically hocking cell phones and pagers...

[@DeadKoby]

@@LyonsArcade You NAILED IT. In 2001, you were instructed to push cell phones to EVERY person who walked in the door. I didn't play that game.

[@scottgm321]

With the art work of women on this game, there’s no reason for the the flippers to be limp or flaccid.

[@simonphelon7221]

I take back what I said about patina being beautiful, circuit boards probably shouldn't have patina.

[@deborahchesser7375]

No they don’t work so good when heavily patina’d lol

[@LyonsArcade]

Yeah i'm one who likes the circuit boards to be shiny, if they're dull we're in trouble :)

[@808zhu]

Don't pull off mylar!

[@LyonsArcade]

You can THINK about it.... but just DONT DO IT.

[@gorillaau]

What about the rest of the Mylar? :-)

[@WreckDiver99]

More James Dean than Fonzie...

[@LyonsArcade]

Ok I'll re-record it

[@WreckDiver99]

@@LyonsArcade LOL!!!