AW11 MR2 POV suspension install

[@d4a]

This is officially the worst footage I published on the channel. Sorry. You can go to 14:28 to see more of the end results and for some useful AW11 suspension torque values. We're almost there, just a few bits missing before I put it on the road.

[@fraymond3]

👺👺👺👺🤘🤘🤘🤘

[@Evolution20v]

Well, your video of paint drying, was a bit worse and a bit boring 😂 And yes, I watched it all 😂

[@d4a]

Sometimes when I look at my past videos I can't believe I published some of that stuff. I really question my sanity at times.

[@Evolution20v]

driving 4 answers I'm just happy, that I'm not the only one, to assemble it wrong the first time 😜😂 Every time I try to do the best, it fuck up. Just grab a shovel and beat it in place, it will turn out perfect 😂

[@d4a]

Quite a few ppl seem to install it like this (wrong) the first time. I honestly don't know why but it just happens lol looks intuitive I guess

[@Roseth_Henning]

Thank you so much for the nm cart for the bolts and screws.. been following this buildt.. its awsome.. all respect to you.. from another mr2 aw11 owner..

[@karoliskazlauskas1213]

Finally, I was waiting for you to build the suspension

[@fila1445]

POV Style... Internet ruined me :p

[@Derpynewb]

4 banger. After trying to think of things people may misinterpret that. Just wow. 4 banger could mean a few things. Gangbang, gangbanger as in gangster type. 4 cylinder engine, pedophile, 4 shot revolver because dumb designs, a gun that bursts in 4 shots because why not? Weeeeeeeee

[@fila1445]

@@Derpynewb my favourite is use of "Rimmed and Slammed" when describing a stanced car :D

[@Derpynewb]

@@fila1445 never ever thought of slammed as something sexual for some reason. The fuck? That seems so obvious. Also, I just saw the oh god oh yes part. I skipped that because I was lazy. But lol. As for rimmed. that one's pretty obvious. Well less sexual and more gross. Als systems causes fire out the back of exhausts right? I feel like a car with an als system when i shit sometimes. Have fun imagining

[@gellis5546]

It took me hours to get everything to line up properly when I was doing this. Especially getting the bolt through the control arm bushings, took me at least 30 minutes per wheel

[@JDMGarageMostar]

Hell yeah bro, you're gonna be ripping this thing real soon!

[@dunzhijialuo736]

Yeeeeeee you are backkkk !!

[@mentals555]

Hey man, the suspension components are supposed to be torqued to spec while compressed as if the car is on the ground. This can be achieved while on jack stands if you place a hydraulic jack under the control arm and jacking the wheel up to where it would sit if the car's weight was on it. Torqueing the components when the suspension is fully extended will cause the bushings and things to be in a bind when the position changes to the actual ride height. This will probably be fixed anyways if you have an alignment done. Love the build man. I was terrified of doing my aw11 suspension bushings due to your video, but surprisingly my components were nearly completely rust free. Luck of the draw I guess. I'm still chasing an oil leak from my dizzy even after rebuilding it. The problems are endless with these cars hahaha

[@d4a]

You're right, but the polyurethane bushings are different. I didn't show it in the video but I loaded them up with a jack and they all rotate when tightened down. Maybe it's because of the grease that came with them. I will have a full alignment too so I should be fine. You're super lucky with the suspension, probably no snow where you live? I will never forget the pain :) What's the issue with the dizzy?

[@mentals555]

@@d4a not so much snow, correct. The car spent some time near the ocean however, so I'm amazed at the low rust. Now that I think of it, the rear fenders must have rotted out because theres a lot of bondo on them. The dizzy just leaks oil. I think it's the inner seal but it is so hard to see due to its positioning in the car. Also I had overfilled the car with oil so that may have been why it leaks. The level does not seem to have dropped anymore since it got down to the "full" mark on the dipstick. But if that were the case, why would it choose the distributor to overflow from?

[@d4a]

When there's too much oil, it will usually come out through the weakest seals, maybe the dizzy seal was simply dead already. Although that doesn't make sense if you just rebuilt it. Any leaks elsewhere?

[@scampers6609]

is it leaking into the distributor cap or from the part where the distributor meets the head?

[@mentals555]

@@scampers6609 I haven't been able to discern that. I assume it's the Interior seal leaking but I just can't see well enough to tell. As I'm sure you know the distributor is not situated in the best spot to be looked at

[@1one3_Racing]

Don't worry, mate. I've done 5 sets of front wheel bearing at work this month and 3 out of the 10 wheels I forgot to put the dust covers back on and has to remove the knuckles again. I said after the second one I'd never do it again..... How did you find the home made polyurethane bushes? I need some that I can't find anywhere so was going to build new brackets with a different bush. Maybe I could make some....

[@dennisvanderben2719]

the footage is not as bad as you say!

[@d4a]

It's worse lol

[@efx-mj8me]

Nice. That large rear bracket was a pain when we put that back after doing the clutch. Old rubber is like twisted but a small jack got that long bar back in place. You're making me jealous with all that clean stuff. I just want to get mine working again too. Lol. By the way just get yourself a cheap magnetic mount for the camera an stick I near whatever you are working on. I know how much of a pain it is to try to work and film at the same time. You'll thank me later.

[@d4a]

I just googled magnetic mounts. I'm thanking you now!

[@Limeayy]

Also @D4A, the builds is taking long time. If I was working on "my so called build" I'm going to be honest, I'd be up like 17 hrs a day working on it till it's done just because I don't have the patience to wait it out and make videos on parts of a complete rebuild or a vehicle or so forth. You have patience. Keep it up. Gives me stuff to wait for and watch. Was wondering if you finish this, are you going to buy another project car to work on?

[@d4a]

I was thinking about a motorcycle. I need a bit of a break :) bikes are smaller and easier. Also I want to travel as much as possible with the AW11 next year and also drive and review some cars.

[@davielad1980]

Well done you! Thank you for the video. POV porno view complete with sound effects! Brilliant. 🤣🤣

[@linchester8464]

play the video and close your eyes and imagine all the grunts XD

[@KCDrives]

Is there a reason why you installed the rear toe links on top of the knuckle rather than under the knuckle with the bolt end pointing up?

[@bradsilveira89]

What kind of rubber guard or paint did you use in the fender wells? Also what black did you use to paint everything else

[@raycecomer3613]

This dude is freaking awesome

[@armandomr2aw118]

Buen carro, yo tambien tengo uno

[@SomeMR2]

Where did you get the replacement parts from. Specifically the rear transverse/control arms

[@d4a]

Techno toy tuning

[@renosgarage7451]

Bro you installed them wrong, theyre on the top side of the knuckle instead of the bottom, look at the techno toys website and they're on the bottom

[@Limeayy]

aww man, you shoulda gone with rubber oem bushings because energy suspension/and any other polyurethane bushings causes a stiction problem and eventually the road dirt and so forth will eat it and rubber actually flexes while poly does not so if you need your control arms/multilink suspension or anything that needs to move, it'll cause a binding issue which you'll feel it. i think i went over this once before but can't find the posts. Just saying, you don't need to say anything to this.

[@d4a]

I remember you commenting about this once before. You know I always reply so I will again. First of all, OEM rubber bushings do not exist for this and many other old cars. I know there's a lot of negative stuff about polyurethane bushings online, I read it too. But much of it doesn't stand to reason. Poly bushings are infinitely more resistant to wear and tear than rubber ones and road debris etc. Will not eat into them I never heard about that happening. I have seen 10 year old bushings that looked like new after the dirt was wiped off. Squeaking and sticking is often due to an improper install, i.e. Not using grease and overtorqueing with impact guns. Polyurethane bushing will make more noise and vibration that is true but the rest really isn't.

[@Limeayy]

Sorry that you had to reply... you really didnt have to :( Also I heard reason why polys eats itself from the road dirt and gravel as it gets into the bushing is because it does not flex, rather it rotates so it'll move against the metal shroud i guess is from what i think?

[@d4a]

@@Limeayy No need to be sorry. You watch my videos and offer reasonable and sensible arguments, least I can do is reply. I see what you mean with the debris and it could cause damage over time that way, but I really don't see how the debris can enter into areas where it can do that damage. It can't enter through either of the bolt sides nor can it enter anywhere else as the bushing internals are completely enclosed. The only ones that have a bit more clearance where debris might enter are the sway bar ones, but that's a stretch too, plus they don't rotate. I think you really need to be driving in some extreme conditions for the debris to be a factor (think sand dune buggies) but polyurethane bushing premature failure is just another item on the list of early failures and is a given in such conditions.

[@zragevii4705]

Out of curiosity, is there a way that you could pm me pictures of the front suspension? I need everything in the front end and am trying to figure out what all I need... thanks in advance...

[@d4a]

Toyodiy.com it's better than any picture

[@zragevii4705]

@@d4a i couldn't find control arms on toyo DIY... any suggestions where to look?

[@d4a]

@@zragevii4705 In the suspension section? Everything is in there, they might be called differently but it's all there.

[@zragevii4705]

@@d4a I'll double check...I'm getting a car that was used for parts and the entire front suspension is gone

[@zragevii4705]

@@d4a thank you, I found some part #s for at least the lowers... where would you suggest buying parts?

[@LuisPereira-sf3zd]

Can I please ask you to kindly send me a pic of the steering knuckle on the mr2 and the steering link

[@d4a]

Where do I send it?

[@LuisPereira-sf3zd]

answers [e-mail]

[@d4a]

I'll send it tomorrow

[@TaranRamjit]

Polyurethane is the biggest mistake anyone can make with their suspension.

[@d4a]

Polyethylene you say.. hmm yes yes indeed

[@TaranRamjit]

@@d4a that is the conclusion I came to after using them on my car, about to go back to OEM bushes.

[@TaranRamjit]

Woops, auto complete.

[@gurjindersingh199]

Pov 😂😂😂😂

[@curvs4me]

Great video Destiny 😂 (your porn alias lol) I came back in time to get a great look at the MR2 rear suspension design. The MR2 has exceptional drag racing traction. I'd guesstimate anything over 600hp is enough to literally flip the car over on its back! I was guessing that a trailing arm type suspension with radius rods is the only way to go. That's exactly what it is. As the rear tires want to rotate CCW, the torque on the hub is trying to push out through the front of the car. This forward and upward force (because of the angle of the trailing arm) tries to lift the car up which drives the tire down into the track. This effect could be changed by changing arm geometry adjusting the relationship to the instant center. For instance, lengthening the arm mounting it further forward in the body would extend the downforce action time frame. Lowering the hub mounting point would increase the lifting force (the equal and opposite reaction is what's forcing the tires into the track). The engine and transaxle can also be used. Mounting the engine in only 3 points or 4 with the 1 or 2 torque arms attached at the base of the drivetrain going forward towards the front of the car. The length and angle could be adjustable. The only other mount attachment points will be on the left and right side of a centerline perpendicular to the the car. The torque driving the wheels forward is trying to spin the motor and transmission backwards, this has the same effect as a 4 link or ladder bar drag suspension. If you wanted to get super fancy to have a suspension good for road racing and drag racing, you could mount an adjustable shock from the top of the motor facing rearward to oppose the lifting torque when road racing. If you've ever driven a shaft drive motorcycle, you know exactly what this lifting force feels like. You also know you definitely don't want it to happen when you accelerate out of a corner from the apex. The Yamaha VMAX/Virago and Honda Valkyrie/VTX have that nasty habit made extreme from the torque. So much coolness for IRS setups and 4 link comparable traction! Has anyone ever done anything like this? Can you foresee any issues outside of figuring out mounting points and lengths through trial and error?