I've gone to the Dark Side on the N Scale ACT

I've gone to the Dark Side on the N Scale ACT.
Today we will install metal wheel sets and add weight to cars.
www.wesleysteiner.com/mr/NMRAT...

[@kimolsen3297]

Just ordered weights and a scale. Couldn't get the micro mart but I did find woodland scenic makes them too. Thanks for the tip off Mike.

[@N-Scale]

Thanks Kim, I hope it helped. Mike

[@allenbarnes7202]

I like the click clack i get from metal wheels when they cross the gap in the track

[@giulius7176]

Good video....It will be worth it in the end..

[@N-Scale]

Thanks , I hope so. I would not look forward to undoing them all. Mike

[@subsailor1445]

Black Sharpie is the answer for camouflage for your boxcar weights. Paint soaked tissue paper will cover your flats & gons. Powered lead in covered hoppers mixed with white glue. Double sided tape and fishing weights for budget minded railroaders. Hard to find metal wheelsets, these days. Haven't been able to find any. Will be checking out your website.

[@N-Scale]

Eastern Seaboard Models is making good wheelsets right now. Mike

[@jacko9759]

Nike great information about wheels & weight is very important to good running, I was in San Diego running (on HO layout) I had weighted my cars but not enough as the obersvation car keep coming off and caused lots of trouble, not only me but others too, (sorry guys) once I put more weight in it it ran without any more problems, and I do plan on replacing the trucks too, I plan on following your advise too...Jack

[@N-Scale]

Thanks Jack , I hope the advice is good. I have been known to occasionally give some bad advice. Other than that I am almost usually perfect. LOL Mike

[@jacko9759]

YOU ARE GOOD, HA, HA HA!

[@IMRROcom]

Happy Birthday

[@N-Scale]

Thanks Buddy, Mike

[@BadlandNP]

About time Mike! You will be happier!

[@N-Scale]

Thanks , Mike

[@brucearbo3273]

Mike...I'm doing the same for my inventory-it truly is an improvement for all of my rolling stock. It's not a 'cleanliness' issue but a performance issue ~Bruce

[@N-Scale]

That is my thinking as well . Thanks , Mike

[@donmartin9567]

Hi Mike, the thing that needs to be kept in mind is that the metal wheels conduct electricity (duh). Where this can be an issue is on a reversing loop when you have cars with metal wheels exiting the reversing loop while cars are still entering the reversing loop (and there is opposite polarity on each side). If the metal wheels bridge the track on both sides, you'll get a short and the only way to fix it is to drag the train (manually) through the reversing section. The issue is exacerbated if you use Kato passenger cars because they have a metal strip which connects the trucks (electrically). In my case, this limits the length of trains that I can run.

[@N-Scale]

Metal wheels have NO bearing on shorts in reverse loops UNLESS they are conducting electricity up to a lighted car or device of some kind. Thanks , Mike

[@donmartin9567]

This depends upon how you've joined the regular track to the reversing loop track. In some cases people just cut a gap in which case the metal wheel can bridge the gap and if that happens on both sides at the same time you'll get a short. When a generic insulation joiner is used, it doesn't come to the top of the rail so you'll get the same effect. The metal wheel conducts electrical current between the 2 rails.

[@catfisherboy]

You just continue to be a source of valuable information , that makes my railroad modeling easier and more fun, thanks Mike

[@user-nx8tk1pp5o]

Dark Side? No way, metal wheels are the way to go for cleanliness, looks, and especially the sound. Unfortunately, when I first installed some FVM wheels, a few of the wheels came off the axles. Since then, I use IM wheels. For weights I use nuts from the hardware store, very cheap and I apply them with good ole' CA. Another thing I do is to remove the stock bolster pins and tap and insert a 2-56 screw along with white elmers glue to hold in the screw. I have been able to do this with all of my rolling stock, MTL, IM, Kato, Con-Cor, and I use only MTL truck mounted couplers. Have you ever tried to put weights into a tank car? Now that can be a challenge!

[@N-Scale]

Thanks , I am learning as I go and No tank cars yet. I am concentrating on some 125 boxcars at first. Mike

[@nfordf450]

I have done a few Bachmann tank cars. I use 1/10oz split shot sinkers from the fishing gear stores around me. Take the screw out of the bottom and add in what you need. Put a drop of CA (superglue) on it and put it back together.

[@pacbeltrr38]

3.141 59 - I'm of the "newer school" thinking of going heavyweight on my rolling stock.... I did it in N, and took the concept even further in HO Scale. Basically, *starting* with the NMRA Standards, and then adding a full ounce, or 8% more, depending on application. This REQUIRES quality, well tuned wheelsets and trucks! The payoff: FAR smoother rolling, lighted cars flicker less, *less derailments,* especially through turnouts and just a more prototypical looking ride. My Layout is limited to 1.8 degree inclines, and that hasn't given me ANY problems with locomotives, which are also "superweighted". ..... I only use real lead weights. No, it's not as healthy! However, after many years of working with it as an Auto Mechanic, I've learned that a simple hand wash with dish soap, gets rid of any harmful residue. Just don't wait to wash, and don't touch a bunch of other stuff before you wash!! 😎 Carmine 🚂

[@colnagocowboy]

prototype roads often have special rules for flat cars. they can jackknife if you put a pusher behind for example.

[@N-Scale]

That is true, they are light in real life. Mike

[@BadlandNP]

And PS - Al Unser? ! Yes!

[@N-Scale]

Yes , he signed it for me at the museum in Albuquerque. Mike

[@randypiasecki4161]

Hi Mike, great video. Model Railroader did an article on this same subject. They showed how to make your own scale ruler using a 1 x 4 piece of wood and a piece of flex track. It is time consuming but it is well worth it. All my cars have some weight added to them using the same weights you are using. I have found some weights at Hobby Lobby that are used for those pine wood race cars. They are a little smaller than the ones from MicroMark and work well in tight spots. I have been wanting to change the axles to metal ones but I did not realize they are different lengths. Thanks for the info and I will pick up a caliper. Randy

[@N-Scale]

Thanks very much for the weight tip and hope the conversions go well. Mike

[@2003farm]

Mike,This was a very interesting Video and shed light on how our rail cars can be weighted to NMRA guide lines.Thanks

[@N-Scale]

Thanks Dennis, I am a long way from finishing but will get back to it when we return from PA

[@seanspennywisemiserrr]

Great tips Mike, thank you. I have a bit of rolling stock with plastic wheels and a bunch dont run real well. You can bet I'll be checking the weights and swapping out the wheels. Going to find and download the weight template.

[@N-Scale]

In the long term , I feel the meta wheels are a large expense but work well.

[@user-nx8tk1pp5o]

For flat cars I glue lead shot to the bottom of the car. Sometimes I have to carve out some of the plastic underneath the floor. If you are eye level with a flashlight you can see the lead shot, but with my layout and most layouts I don't see the lead shot at my viewing angle. I also do this method for empty hoppers, 2 bay hoppers, underneath the car and not in the hopper where the load would go.

[@atl-armyofthelivinggaminga1172]

Thanks for your videos. Always great and informative. All the best to you. From the UK

[@N-Scale]

Thank You, Mike

[@CajonSub]

Great video Mike, very informative. I'll be doing this on my rolling stock soon too, now I have a "how to" guide to follow! Thanks again. Steve

[@N-Scale]

Thanks for checking it out Steve, Mike

[@chipset2900]

I think its more important to have the correct length axle for which ever truck brand, more so than just switching to metal wheels. The weights are tungsten now, instead of lead.

[@N-Scale]

That is a given with axles . Thanks , Mike

[@craiglordable]

Most of my N scale cars have metal stock wheels and some plastic wheels (few). They all seem to work well. The weight of the cars is the big issue in running well (same with my HO) especially with N. As long as my wheel sets are in gauge and the cars are weighted properly I have no problems. I don't have a reason to change the plastic wheels to metal, as they seem to work well. It takes some finesse to weight gondolas and flat cars but isn't that part of the fun of being a modeler?

[@N-Scale]

Thanks Craig , I agree, they all work. Mike

[@TerryN323]

Great video - I have to agree that weight is critical. And since FV has come out with their resistor wheels, I have been putting one resistor axle on each can while I am swapping out the plastic wheels. They help with signaling and occupancy detection.

[@N-Scale]

Thanks Terry , Mike

[@ronjenkins549]

Mike, I have been using metal wheelsets and micro-trains trucks for 10 years and love them. I have discovered that body mount help derailment a lot.

[@N-Scale]

I do not prefer body mounts with my smaller radius curves. It certainly helps when pushing cars. Mike

[@michelj.gaudet5048]

Me again - - - Mike, the warning on the weight packaging? ... They are lead.

[@N-Scale]

They seem to be a lead alloy as they are very hard to cut. Mike

[@donmartin9567]

Mike, thanks for the video. I'm a proponent of weighing to NMRA specs and I do that with all the rolling stock I get (exceptions follow). If there is a problem with rolling resistance on the stock then I convert to metal wheels but at this point I haven't converted all my stock. I use some side cutters I've had for years to cut the weights. I purchase weights from a local hobby store. You can also get them in RC plane stores (and online through similar stores) as the weights are used to adjust the CG on RC planes. I run a lot of passenger cars and do NOT weight them. Partially because I'm worried about the weights being seen through the windows and partially because I have a lot. So far I haven't had any issues with them (most are Kato). I don't do any switching with them though. I do have issues with the flat cars and with a lot of tank cars, depending upon manufacturer. Some are pretty close so that's OK but for the ones that aren't, if I can't pop the body off then they have to stay at their stock weight, even if light. I'm still up in the air with my Kato double Stacks. I haven't even checked their weight although with one of them I did add some weight to one of the containers so keep the front truck on the track. Not sure if I'll weight the rest or not. Oh and I do paint my weights black IF I think they can be seen.

[@N-Scale]

Thanks for the info Don , Mike

[@hillhavenmotorsports2808]

Great, informative video! Great work as usual Mike!

[@N-Scale]

Thanks so much Brayden, Mike

[@jerryfranklin464]

hi ! thank you for taking the time to give all of us such good info.

[@N-Scale]

Thanks for looking Jerry. Mike

[@dacuzzz]

hi Mike.. awesome tutorial... for my hoppers i use "Daisy" BB's help down with CA cement...they work just fine thanks for sharing... vinny

[@N-Scale]

Thanks Vinny , I don't want anything that shows with no loads. Thanks , Mike

[@michelj.gaudet5048]

Mike, back in the 70s/80s, I used metal for only two reasons: 1- real cars don't use plastic wheels... lol 2- plastic wheels make it harder... well, at least way back when... to light the interior of some cars. I could have cared less regarding cleaner tracks, as I used 'special' cars (modified by yours truly), one pushed and one pulled for that chore_ once a week without fail_ and I never had oxidation issues. THANK GOD FOR NICKLE SILVER!!! And regarding weight? Well, THAT never seemed to be an issue for me, even pulling 40+ cars. Guess I was lucky. Glad ya' going 'metal'. It will LOOK better. Take care, my friend, and get more vids up. We like your 'style'.

[@N-Scale]

Thanks Mike, my room is fairly clean as well but the issue is really weight and where that weight is on the car. Thanks , Mike

[@DavidAmmerlaan]

Nicely done

[@N-Scale]

Thanks so much , Mike

[@nfordf450]

I've got a few fickle trucks that don't like my metal wheel sets to. But when it comes to switching there worth it. Not very high on cleaning track in my book as well. But when it comes to stock cars you got some choices on weight color. One greenish tan and one tan will give you the look of hay and straw placed in the car getting ready to pick up livestock. As the hay and straw would be placed in the car any time livestock is to be loaded or loaded in the car at every water stop. (No water trough in the car made these stops needed.) but the cars are small enough in N scale u don't think that would be needed as well. Yet chickens shipped in stock cars would be in metal pins along the walls of the car stacked normally only 3 cages high. So it also looks like there could be some cages left from the side of the car to. So you can lick back at the rivet counters.

[@johnreitz70]

Mike, notice some cars couplers are body mounted some not. The coupler pocket from the MT trucks can be cut off and mounted to car, but not sure what drill and tap and screw to use. Any advise from u or group would help. Now back to my rev. Section controlled by MRC 520 unit shorting problem. Thanks guys.

[@N-Scale]

Thanks John , I still do not care for using body mounts on my compact layout. Thanks , Mike

[@tanzj]

Mike, I see that you are having lots of fun. I replaced 1700 plastic wheels to metal wheels from November 2016 to January of this year. My fingers were worn out. My preference was ExactRail wheels for MTL & FVM for Atlas, IMRC & Con-Cor....John

[@N-Scale]

Thanks John. I will not buy anything Athearn or Exactrail as they do not sell to online retailers. Mike

[@JoeG-firehousewhiskey]

That ruler is a great idea. Im sure this is a lot of work, especially if you have a lot of cars

[@N-Scale]

Thanks Joe. It was a lot of work and the weighting works but the metal wheels, I am not sure I would do that again. Mike

[@sjbolton72]

Very helpful. One question for a starter. Have trucks always been built to be removable? I bought a random assortment 2nd hand and most have no screws and I've been reluctant to try to see if they are pins that pop out or for example a pin the is moulded as part of the chasis, had the trucks put on and the top heat squished to stop the truck coming off. ? I'm concerned at damaging the car/chassis if i assume it pops out but was never meant to. Is there any way to tell for certain?

[@N-Scale]

All cars are not created equal. I can only say, you will likely have to take the car apart to find out but no trucks I know of are mounted permanently. Thanks , Mike

[@IMRROcom]

I think we are a little too old worry about lead. I made it this far and the lead paint chips I ate in preschool has not done anything to me yet. I would be worried as all get out if I lived in California as we do know everything will cause cancer in California. I'm sure the lead stops the fallout from White Sands, so it must be goo for you :)

[@N-Scale]

I hear you. In the phone business for some 38 years and handled lead frequently in cable work and it did not seem to effect me effect me effect me, Oh sorry. Mike

[@jacko9759]

Mike , the weights you are using doesn't contain lead, not for years now, and all those years didn't seem to hurt you!

[@poppabob69]

Yes, those and the boxcar with the open doors were the only ones I had in mind. :) I can certainly understand it wouldn't be feasible, or necessary, with every car.

[@N-Scale]

Thanks so much Robert, Mike

[@TheShadeTreeFixitMan]

I expect I should be able to find that chart you refer to in HO scale as well? Thanks for the information.

[@N-Scale]

I would think so George. What is HO scale? LOL Mike

[@wolfpack4694]

Ha ha! Love the twilight zone music! Changing out your wheel sets? Uh oh, there goes the Beech Bonanza A-36 fund....

[@N-Scale]

Yes and so much for a new Ford GT40. Mike

[@SGTGhost]

that's great news for me Mike, i enjoyed watching the video.

[@N-Scale]

Thanks Sgt, Mike

[@kimolsen3297]

Hi Mike. Wanted to get some metal wheel sets but fox valley models is all out and so is everyone else. I was curious, you sell micro trains metal wheelsets, why did you use fox valley and not the micro trains metal wheelsets? Is there a quality difference between them? Also, are you going to Salt Lake for the convention? Thanks.

[@N-Scale]

We are going to Salt Lake City and I used FVM sets because MT had not released theirs yet. Thanks , Mike

[@dwightatnorthernstar1820]

viewed this a few times, then bought a digital caliper. Man even among FV and Intermountain and MT the axles vary in length. Saw an article that said better a little too large, than having axles that fall out.

[@N-Scale]

Not true , They need to be on the smaller side or they will bind. Thanks , Mike

[@johnbrown7858]

Mike, I am following in your footsteps. Any plastic wheels that are giving me any trouble, are going for metal wheels. If the plastic wheels are O. K. then they can stay. It's that simple I guess!

[@N-Scale]

Thanks John , I agree. Mike

[@Stanf954]

Oddly with my HO collection the mfgs of the high end stock use metal wheels on my Atlas, Intermountain, Kato and FVM cars. In contrast with N scale from the same mfgs use plastic wheel sets. Go figure.

[@flyboybobio3431]

Nice job Mike. I don't have near the quantity of rollingstock that you do and I try to buy micro trains that already have the metal wheels on it which I like. Keep the videos coming.

[@N-Scale]

Thanks Bob , Mike

[@matthewbaumann6236]

Mike there is an article in Model Railroader July 2017 on upgrading an gondola which lists a product called liquid gravity on pages 26 and 27 which I think we N scalers can use on our cars that are hard to add weight to the link to the U.S. distributer is www.michtoy.com/vendors-Deluxe%20Materials.html you may want to check it out.

[@N-Scale]

Wow that stuff looks cool. May try it some day. Thanks , Mike

[@RWSBaden]

Hi Mike, I'm surprised with the Micro-Trains cars, I thought they were correctly weighted right from the factory. Has adding weight and metal wheels stopped the slinky effect often experienced with Micro-Trains couplers? Loved the Twilight Zone music, brings back lots of memories. On the other hand, I guess I'm also showing my age ( ha ha ha ) Cheers Rich.

[@N-Scale]

Thanks Rich, I have not run enough to notice but I would guess there is nothing to get rid of slinky. Thanks , Mike

[@ronheiser3248]

MTL makes www.micro-trains.com/n-2-truck-restraining-springs-1953-12-ea-00112002?search=spring&category_id=109 which can be used to help cut down the "slinky" effect. It creates a small amount of drag on the cars. They made it to keep light weight cars and cars with metal trucks from being pulled into the magnets and being unintentionally uncoupled but it will help with the slinky.

[@RWSBaden]

Hi Ron, Thanks for the link. Cheers Rich

[@N-Scale]

Or you could go here. fiferhobbysu770.corecommerce.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=13078 Thanks Ron and Rich , Mike

[@csnyder29]

Great video .. a couple of questions as I am going to be doing changes to my wheel sets as well as trucks/couplers. Why did you choose 33" vs 36" for the wheel set and how the heck do you you figure out which truck/coupler combination do you pick?

[@N-Scale]

I always use Micro-Trains trucks but that is why you need the caliper. I used 33" as most of the 40' cars had 33. To me the size is so slight I would not care even if the modern car had 36" , but it is all visual. Thanks , Mike

[@pacbeltrr38]

Hi Mike! I'm back, sorta.... New channel, starting over with nearly nothing but hope and friends. I'm not sure I would call that "dark side"!! 😛 In larger Scales - plastic vs. metal is a better argument for cleaner track.... They just pick up more gunk than the tiny wheelsets in lightweight N Scale rolling stock. However, I would maintain that metal wheels DO roll with less resistance than plastic. MTL wheelsets I believe, are Delrin, and better rolling with less resistant than plastic. I really believe that in the long run, you are going to see a difference! 👍👍 Carmine 🚂

[@pacbeltrr38]

I had mentioned in another post, I OVER weight my rolling stock. But as you mentioned, I limit my grades to 1.8%, to not overstrain my locomotives. I do go significantly over the NMRA Standards! In HO Scale, it makes a real difference in performance!

[@N-Scale]

Thanks Carmine , Good to see you once again and I think you are right on this. Mike

[@glennmcferon5189]

howdy Mike. this is definitely off topic. what is the advantages of a #4 turn out versus a #6 turnout? I am going to use unitrack. look on the net and.gey a lot of opinions with no real answers. please help

[@dprice2405]

when it comes to some of the boxcars with two doors, perhaps you can paint the weights you use inside a brown color and if they are noticed they will look like crates or boxes? its what I have done on a few cars and seems fine :)

[@N-Scale]

Thanks , I may very well do that. Thanks , Mike

[@ronheiser3248]

Mike, Have you used the Deluxe Materials Liquid Gravity to weigh any of your cars? If so, would you be willing to do a review of the product? Also, do you have a problem with the typical "slinky" effect of MT couplers?

[@N-Scale]

I have not but I have threatened to try some !!!

[@Mastertech6]

try also fishing weights they come in a nice container with diffrent sizes, don't be afraid to go over weight.

[@N-Scale]

Thanks for the tip John , Mike

[@Brokecurmudgeon]

Hi Mike! I have noticed that on my layout with Kato UniTrack, sometimes the metal wheels on my cars short out the track voltage while transiting some turnouts. Especially the double crossover. What has been your experience?

[@N-Scale]

None yet. I would think if that is happening that the wheel sets in question may be on some older cars , as some of the early metal sets had very wide treads. Thanks , Mike

[@txgump12]

Hi MIke, now that MTL has announced metal wheels, it would be interesting to get your take at some point when they are released for sale.

[@N-Scale]

They are for sale. They are metal wheels with an all plastic axle and the quality control seems very good but I have yet to use any. I am actually thinking of going back to plastic. Mike

[@roymaynard1205]

This might be too late for you but I found adhesive backed wheel weights by Motion Pro on Amazon and other us sellers that come in 1/4 and 1/8 oz sizes. They are just the right width and come in gray or black powdered coated steel. It works out to 12 cents each for the 1/4 oz and 6 cents each for the 1/8 oz size. It will cut down on the cutting and they are lower profile that the ones you used.

[@N-Scale]

Cool , do you have a link? Thanks , Mike

[@roymaynard1205]

If you don't have prime www.socalpowersports.com has them also I think they have free shipping.

[@roymaynard1205]

Sounds like something you need to stock......

[@N-Scale]

That would be fine if we could buy them wholesale but likely not. Thanks , Mike

[@georgemeyer8521]

I have been an N scale modeler for over 50 years and have always liked metal wheels much more than plastic. Most of my rolling stock has metal wheels ( 90% + ) and I have over 800 pieces. Now I'll till you why, and the reason is very simple. DIRT ! Most modelers don't know this but, Rapido made the BEST track of anyone in almost any scale and for that very same reason. DIRT ! Although most of their rolling stock had plastic wheels, that's only half of the story. Here's the kicker, .... the top of the rail on their track is ..... ROUND.....!!! There's NO surface for the dirt to stay ! ! ! Rapido, one of the biggest, the one that started it all, NEVER made a track cleaning car because, there was no need, you don't need one! You almost all the time have continuity because of that single point between rail and wheel. Now a lot of modelers are saying round toped rail is not realistic, but we know there are liberties we take in the hobby and to me this one is well worth taking. Besides, in N scale it's so small you hardly notice it. I only wish they lasted longer so as to make a solid round toped rail of nickel silver. This is a great hobby and my two cents, N scale, metal wheels, Rapido track. Great video, Thanks Mike

[@N-Scale]

Thanks George, Mike

[@poppabob69]

Paint the weights black, they won't be so noticeable even if they are glimpsed.

[@N-Scale]

I would and may do that some day but with the amount of cars I have I will be lucky to get the weighted and converted in a couple months , let alone paint the weights. That is a good idea for the stock cars for sure. Mike

[@akr3985fan]

Spank my Butt Uncle Mike you going to Metal Ya Hoo' that's Great.. I've seen differences in Metal compared to plastic and seen more than my share of Derailments with Good Cars like Intermoutain, And Microtrains one of them Being an Auto Rack with the D&RGW This car was a Sweet car Mike liked it because of the Denver and Rio Grand but every Darn Time it went through my 2 KATO #6's with the Microtrains plastic lovelies I'll call the Damn things that Auto Rack jumped the the Tracks I changed the wheels to Metal and Boom like a zombie the Car Derailments went a Way! But I decided not to keep the Car for other Reasons.. what I can't understand is Manufactures Like Intermoutain on some cars you'll see Microtrains Trucks and plastic wheels, some will have Microtrains and Fox Valley metal wheels, and on some Intermoutain Cars it's there own trucks and there own wheels, sorry to be cheek about this Mike but it's all a bunch a Horse puckey to keep up with ; ) But who's to stop it.. But I'd like to ask how much does that scale cost I can just imagion it's above my pay Grade And on the Weigts.. You can if your local Hobby Does not carry non Lead weights, Go to your local Tire shop an acquire them there they Should have a Variety of sizes do in part of what's needed to Ballance Car Tires & Rims I got mine at my Local Good Year Tire shop and the Weights Did not Have any Lead as Tire shops can't use the Lead OZ weights any longer.. My OZ weights that I bought cost $5.00 for about 50 that I needed if anybody still has or is Using Lead Weights wash your hands after Handling Them.. As Lead can be Dangerous to your Health...

[@N-Scale]

Thanks Ron , I hope this works for me. Mike

[@kimolsen3297]

One more question Mike, are wheelsets on cars ever lubricated in any way? Thanks again!

[@N-Scale]

DO NOT lube axles. While powdered graphite works , it is messy and oils only collect dust. Thanks , Mike

[@billvassar7473]

and what's wrong with steam?

[@N-Scale]

It is just like the real ones. They constantly need work and maintenance. Thanks , Mike

[@trainroomgary]

Cool / On the dark side. / When you fly to the National N Scale Convention, wave, I will be looking up. 😎 • Cheers from The Detroit Mackinac Railway • Pronounced: (mac-in-aw) 🚂

[@N-Scale]

We will be over you sometime around 1:00pm. Mike

[@ATSFVentaSpurNscaler]

I like the Twilight Zone intro and exit music, Mike! Metal wheels as sleight weights, huh? That seems like a good idea. Maybe I'll give it a try with my rolling stock. Are the ones you're using insulated wheelsets? -from Tom Pilling

[@N-Scale]

Yes, They need to be insulated. Thanks Tom , Mike

[@roanokesnswinston-salemdis8629]

Excellent video my friend. I have problems with metal wheel on a stack train I have, If you want to send me some of the Plastic Micro-Trains wheels you removed, I would be very grateful for them my friend. This is Rob Webb

[@N-Scale]

What kind of problems?

[@roanokesnswinston-salemdis8629]

I'm running Code 80 Flex, & I have a set of articulated well cars that came with metal wheels on them, The wheels seem to rise up & the drag at an angle where one set is off the rail while the other set on the same truck stays on the rail. If that makes since.

[@N-Scale]

It is likely not a wheel problem unless they are out of gauge. It is more likely the truck is too tight or the wheel flange is touching something on the underside of the car. Thanks , Mike

[@roanokesnswinston-salemdis8629]

I'll check it out more, they don't roll freely on the rails, So something must be touching something. They were used when I purchased a lot of them from someone on N scale Buy Sell Trade. I have them on a siding until I can afford to get Micro-Train Truck for them. Thank for your time, & help. Rob

[@N-Scale]

The axles may be too ling for the trucks as well , if it is not rolling easily. Mike

[@tadheath5856]

Mr. Fifer, run what ever makes u happy. Just because I don't have a McDonald's on my layout...doesn't mean u should put it on eBay. I hate this...it's what ever make u happy and what ever u want. Not what other people want u to do. Now this isn't to start a big argument. So be adults here. I'm just saying people build and run what is easy for them and what makes them happy. If Mr. Fifer wants to HO scale couplers. The video will be on here. Now back to why I commented. Mr. Fifer where do u find the dummy locos In any style locos? Thank you! Keep up the great videos!!!

[@N-Scale]

Thanks Tad, I have made them by gutting a broken loco here and there. Thanks , Mike

[@tadheath5856]

Ok thanks....and keep up your GREAT VIDEOS!!!!!!

[@larrybaughman618]

🤠🖐🚂

[@N_scale]

Sorry Mike. The plastic wheels in MTL wheel sets are Delrin plastic. It is slippery on purpose to ensure smooth rolling. I only run MTL wheel sets and at shows with trains of all MTL for hours and hours no derails. Obviously MTL couplers helps too. The extra money I save on not buying FVM wheels go towards more stuff from your store instead! KATO unitrack + MTL wheels and couplers = you're gonna have a good time!

[@N-Scale]

I hear you brother, Thanks , Mike

[@N_scale]

Regarding metal wheels keeping track clean, I sell abrasives for a living. I can tell you you don't prep your steel for a weld by rubbing steel on it.

[@N-Scale]

That is true. Mike