Mrs. M's Mock Invisible Join Tutorial

An exciting new round joining technique (for non-reversible projects worked right-side facing only). Avoid the Telltale Seam and go Mock Invisible instead! :)
For the full tutorial, visit mrsmicawber.blogspot.com

[@realitycheck4086]

Thank you for this clear explanation. I have just bought your book and am enjoying your new idea for crocheting cables.

[@leeloul.1770]

I knew this way, but yours is more advanced, and detailed. One more time, thanks a lot for sharing your knowledges, Mrs Teacher !! Friendly, Leelou

[@selinalow624]

Leelou Crochet

[@michellenash6802]

The best invisible join I've seen so far!! Thank you!!

[@MrsMicawberCrochets]

You're very welcome!

[@pame6954]

Thank you, thank you, thank you! This is exactly what I've been looking for! I just KNEW it could be done somehow, and now you've shown us how! Once again, thank you!

[@MrsMicawberCrochets]

You're very welcome! If you like experimenting with different round join techniques, you might also want to try the Slipped Slip Join and another technique I developed that's kind of a hybrid of the SSJ and the Mock Invisible. The SSJ can be found within this tutorial, about a third of the way down the page: mrsmicawber.blogspot.com/2014/11/limpet-mitts-free-pattern-and-cal-part.html And the hybrid join can be found at the end of this post: mrsmicawber.blogspot.com/2017/08/two-patterns-published-and-tutorial-for.html Thanks for commenting, and happy crocheting! :)

[@MrsMicawberCrochets]

Many thanks to all of you! :)

[@gdhhayes2129]

Best I've seen yet!

[@MrsMicawberCrochets]

Thank you!

[@memesmith0811]

Thank you for explaining the way you do this procedure. You explained and showed it well. I just wonder how neat it looks from the back of it. I will reserve that judgement until I try it. Thanks again

[@MrsMicawberCrochets]

it doesn't look great, which is why in the blog post I specify that it's appropriate for "non-reversible, joined-round projects worked Right Side facing at all times". If you are looking for a more subtle join, try the Slipped Slip join. I don't know of any dedicated tutorials out there for the Slipped Slip join, but you can find the instructions in this post, under the heading "Abbreviations and Special Terms Used". If you scroll a little farther down there are some photos illustrating the steps. Thanks for commenting, and happy crocheting!

[@deborahgibson4256]

Genius! Pure genius!

[@MrsMicawberCrochets]

Thank you! You might also want to check out the join tutorial in this post - it's a variation of the Mock Invisible join: mrsmicawber.blogspot.com/2017/08/two-patterns-published-and-tutorial-for.html

[@cfschz5230]

wish I had found you earlier. Didn't finish a project bc I did not like the way the color change was looking.....will try again....thanks

[@MrsMicawberCrochets]

You're welcome, and good luck with your project!

[@memesmith0811]

thanks looks ok but not sure if I would want to do such a complicated way each round

[@robsonoliveira8689]

Thanks for sharing it 😍

[@MrsMicawberCrochets]

You're welcome!

[@teresagavinho]

amazing

[@tikasari5744]

Could I use this for amigurumi about invisible join single stitch?

[@MrsMicawberCrochets]

I think so, but I don't make amigurumi, so don't know if this is the best join for that purpose. Have you checked Planet June's videos? I believe she has some tips for amigurumi. Good luck!

[@johnhendy1281]

Am I right that one needs to get the loop length right after the first step of the join (e.g. to the single crochet in the case of hdc)? I played around with this for some time, finding that after the second step there's no way to shorten the loop remaining after the second step (into last stitch) since the yarn is now doubled back on itself. Put another way, let's say you make the loop 2" long and do all the steps. The loop would stay super long and not be shorten-able by pulling the working yarn, correct? Still works amazingly well, just want to make sure I'm not confused!

[@MrsMicawberCrochets]

+John Hendy Yes - you do need to get the loop length right at the beginning of the process. I found that about 3/4" is a good size with dk or worsted weight yarn. As you practice, you'll get a feel for the right loop size for your particular yarn and it will become almost automatic. A note: you might also want to try the Slipped Slip join - it's easier and works well for many applications. (See my Limpet Mitts tutorial for an example of the Slipped Slip join.) Thanks for commenting, and happy crocheting!

[@johnhendy1281]

+MrsMicawberCrochets Thanks for the confirmation! I've been using this and it generally works awesome. I did run into a snag in trying to modify a patterned hat from double to hdc. My color changes seem to wander in a spiral through the rows... I've read a bit and now think this is inherent in hdc. I tried intentionally shifting one stitch to the left on a row but the pattern has the color change at stitch one and I found this technique might not work great if your first stitch (single for me) and last are not the same color. I'll probably undo and read around for fixes or switch to single or double if I can't use hdc... thanks again!

[@MrsMicawberCrochets]

+John Hendy Any crochet worked in spiral rounds will have a colour-shift (or stitch-shift). If you look at the way the stitches are aligned you'll see that crochet stitches don't stack up neatly on top of each other the way knitting stitches do; each new stitch is above and slightly to the right or left (depending on where you inserted your hook) of the stitch below. I don't know much about the effects of stitch conversion (dc to hdc) except that it will compress the design, so can't advise with that. Regarding crochet colourwork you might find this post interesting: playinhookydesigns.blogspot.com/2012/02/crochet-techniques-colorwork.html - I think it addresses the slanting color question. Good luck. :)

[@johnhendy1281]

+MrsMicawberCrochets Good to know and thanks so much for the explanation. Perhaps I'll post a picture of the hat I'm nearly finished with using your MIJ. I got some spiraling (which thanks to you I know is inherent), but the seam looks sooooooo much better than the first hat I did with the chain 3 method and DC. So happy to have learned this!

[@TheDabblingHook]

Excellent.

[@MrsMicawberCrochets]

Thank you! I hope you find it helpful. :)

[@selinalow624]

MrsMicawberCrochets

[@basantadel8654]

you're adorable thanx very much

[@MrsMicawberCrochets]

You're welcome, and thank you!