#MT25

[@learningturningmetal]

Many thanks for all the constructive comments and suggestions. Although my machining went well, with all machined faces being perpendicular and parallel, I am still not happy with the fact that the bore for the crosshead is not best aligned within the casting. I guess it will work if I make slight adjustment to the positions of the supporting studs in the soleplate, but this seems like a bit of a fudge. As such, I've decided purchase another Standard casting and I will try to get it right next time round. Look out for Part 4a!!!!!

[@woodndrum303]

Hi great video of your work and your learning curve. I am in a similar position to you and appreciate your honesty! I bet I to hers have said, or you’ve found it yourself but Joe Pie (Austin Texas) shows in fantastic detail exactly how to bore the same casting perpendicular to the flange which is lined up parallel to the feet. He bored on the lathe, which is how I will tackle my casting later this month. His is a twin cylinder so to me that would double my chance of error! But Joe is a great teacher.

[@learningturningmetal]

@@woodndrum303 thanks mate! Yeah Joe certainly knows his stuff. Good luck with your project. Cheers Andrew

[@lenroddis5933]

Hello again Andrew.In the absence of a mill, all machining is done on my ancient, tiny, Cowells ME lathe. I first checked that the bore and the outside of the Standard were reasonably concentric.I bolted 3/16" gauge plate to my 90mm faceplate with an M6 hole tapped in the centre. Having filed the top of the Standard flat, a steel mandrel was turned to the inside diameter of the Standard, the ends threaded M6 and screwed into the gauge plate. This provides an axis close enough square to the face plate.The Standard was then slid head first onto the mandrel and tightened down with a nut and washer. A leather washer between the gauge plate and the Standard took up any unevenness. The bottom of the feet were turned until flat and in theory parallel to the face plate. This is the reference surface.The feet were drilled 7BA clearance and slid onto the mandrel. 7BA holes were drilled and tapped in the gauge plate, the mandrel removed and the feet bolted down.Having loosened the gauge plate, the Standard was gently tapped with a plastic hammer until the outside of the casting was running true, then the gauge plate was firmly bolted down on the faceplate. The top, perimeter and bottom of the ring were turned to size and the Crosshead hole bored to diameter.The Standard was re-mounted head down and the feet turned to final overall height.Easier done than said.Regards,Len

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Len - that sounds like an absolutely brilliant method. I really appreciate you sharing this, and I will certainly try your approach next time. I'm sure it will help others who are learning too. All the best. Andrew

[@rjordans]

Thanks for the suggestion, I'm looking at getting this model but also only have a lathe so these tricks are great to hear!

[@lenroddis5933]

@@rjordans Have to say that I bought a milling slide ( Z axis) for the lathe to do the sides of the steam chest and for milling and drilling small items e.g. the clevis. That seems to have been the traditional ME approach before reasonably priced milling machines became available. My 10V and D10 were both completed using that setup. I've spent many happy hours working on a Stuart Compound Launch engine, with many more hours still to go. It's a completely different ball game cf the 10 Series. The cylinder block is a large casting that won't fit in my lathe so I invested in a milling machine like Andrew's. There are so many factors in deciding how to approach machining the block and at £100 a whack, choosing the wrong starting point can be an expensive lesson in both time and money. But solving problems is what I find most rewarding in Model Engineering.

[@rjordans]

@@lenroddis5933 I'm happy enough to have a milling attachment for my lathe too. The main reason for not having a full mill is the available space in my workshop. But indeed, I'm expecting that some improvisation will be required to get things done

[@markdavies8037]

Hi, when clamping on the mill eg around the 10 min mark. Clamp needs to be raised at the off work end, move it up the stepped heel block and move the T slot bolt closr to the job. Cos it looked like you were clamping the heel block more than the part. We are all teaching each other on here. I really enjoy it. Take care.

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Mark - yeah looking back at some of my earlier videos makes me cringe sometimes. I now 'try' to clamp in the manner as you describe. Cheers Andrew

[@Nick-ye5kk]

Excellent video

[@learningturningmetal]

Thanks Nick! 👍

[@peterspain3827]

Hi Andrew You mentioned you nearly made a mistake with the hole positions and if i wasn’t looking at your great vids i would have made the same mistake.Thanks for your help. Im now working on the standard but wondered how you lined up the hole positions for the cylinder.keep em coming mate the’re great

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Peter - I think I cover that in Part 10. I'm glad you find the videos useful. Cheers Andrew

[@pauls5745]

when doing the bolt circle, the rotary table has a 360 degree scale, so no need to count handle turns. just look out for 72, 144, 216, etc

[@learningturningmetal]

Fair point Paul. Cheers Andrew

[@pauls5745]

castings also may not be uniform thickness along their length, so as long as you know you're square to your axis, the components will have their proper geometry tho the outside surfaces will be varied. the base of my S50 is thin on the front so I'm using body filler before paint to make it look flat

[@adaml52]

Hi Andrew, I never trust the scale on that type of boring head, I tend to setup a DTI on the movable jaw of the boring head with the magnetic base on the bed of the mill. It's better than guessing the backlash on the boring head. Also check the geometry of the brazed carbide boring bar, they normally need correcting.

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Adam - a great tip. I will try to remember that one. Cheers Andrew

[@rjordans]

Great series! Thanks :-D

[@learningturningmetal]

Thanks Roel - I'm glad you like it! Cheers Andrew

[@rjordans]

@@learningturningmetal I recently got myself a mini-lathe and am trying to decide whether to start with either the S50 or 10V so your series is helping a lot in that decision! I don't have much space for a mill though so it's great to see the options with just a lathe.

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Roel. I don't think I could have made either the s50 or the 10V without a small mill. I think some people manage to do it though. Good luck. Andrew

[@rjordans]

@@learningturningmetal OK, thanks for the 'warning'. I'm just going through the S50 writeup from Tubal Cain that you posted on the series there and I see that those use the lathe and a simple drill press. I'm fortunate enough to have a milling attachment with my lathe so that should help, but I agree that this is probably going to be a challenge with my current equipment. Cheers, Roel

[@rjordans]

Hi Andrew. The verdict is out, I've went ahead and ordered a set of castings for the 10V together with the book. Being a bit smaller than the S50 with regards to the milling operations should allow me to do everything on the lathe either using a faceplate or my milling attachment. Cheers, Roel

[@TheMiniMachineShop]

I would have used the boring head first as an indicator to know if all was square. Somewhat primitive but the hole would have looked more on center.

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Dave - now why didn't I think of that? A great idea. Cheers Andrew

[@martybadboy]

11:55 When you rotated that Morse adapter, it appears that it wobbled. Hopefully you got that sorted before you used it as the reference (or maybe I’m seeing things). Good documentary series, I’ll keep watching. 👍

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi. Many thanks for the feedback. I think that with the Standard being out of alignment, it appears that the 2mt is not chucked correctly. As far as I recall it was straight in relation to the chuck, but it is something I will double-check in future. Thanks for the help. Andrew

[@modelsteamers671]

Hi Andrew, it's a shame the bore didn't quite go to plan but at least you got a chance to see that the boring head cuts ok. Is the bore perpendicular to the top face and the bottom of the feet? Are the top and bottom cuts perfectly parallel? As you have already drilled the fixing holes I'd be tempted to bolt everything together including the crank then see how a close fitting rod in the bore lines up.

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Pete. I am pretty confident that everything is perpendicular and parallel. I will try a test assembly as you suggest, once I've made the conrod. Off-camera, I've attached the crankshaft bearings to the soleplate and the crankshaft runs really smooth and free. Next job is to machine the flywheel. Unlike the S50, this time I will use the lathe throughout. Cheers Andrew

[@modelsteamers671]

@@learningturningmetal I don't think you'll have any problems with it, it seems like any error is largely cosmetic and won't be seen anyway. The engine is turning out nicely and I look forward to an update. Before you know it in the New Year you'll be suggesting we run it on some of the hot stuff 😀

[@backyardmechanic921]

You can't relie on any surface of a casting to be square or parallel. The only way is to stand it and compare it with a square standing beside it and use the Mark 1 eyeball. You are the only one who knows it's a bit off but I know it rankels when you see it's off centre.

[@learningturningmetal]

"rankels" sums it up perfectly. I just hope that any adjustment I make, when attaching it to the sole plate, will not be too obvious. Cheers Andrew

[@rallymax2]

I’m curious, why did you use a boring bar instead of a reamer for 5/8?

[@learningturningmetal]

Good question! I don't think I had a 5/8 reamer at the time. Anyways I would have still used the boring bar to get close to 5/8 before reaming. The boring bar did give a good finish and I don't think spot on 5/8 is critical for the standard - but hey I could be wrong. All the best. Andrew

[@daveticehurst4191]

Andrew. Having to keep converting to Metric did not help. I know now you have a DRO. TIP. when clamping, you need the step block end to be HIGHER than what you are clamping by a small amount so that the toe of the clamp is pushing downwards. As you had it in your final shot of drilling the feet, I could see the toe of the clamp was slightly up hill. I know castings can be quite a problem of where to start from as they have what is known as Draft ( a taper so it can be removed from the casting sand easier ) on all side. That often make it problematic of not only how to hold it, but which face to reference from, as you found out. Usually the core is quite good for location, I would have probable found something to be a reasonable fit and and sticking out each end, then set set the bar up in vee blocks and do some rough measurements and squareness checks of the feet and top flange. If the bore was proved to be in the correct place, place the bar in the lathe, ensure the casting can not rotate, bit of hot glue etc, and take a very light skim off the top face to get it square to the bore. Then set it up as you had it, or whilst in the lathe, turn the top OD true, then you can reverse the casting into your 3 jaw chuck and then bore out the casting to size. Either mill or turn the feet.

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Dave - yeah I can never remember which bit needs to be higher when clamping. I think I need to get some vee blocks too. All the best. Andrew