MUST HAVE! E46 rear subframe reinforcement kit - installing MAXPEEDINGROD chassis weld in M3 330ci

[@bhcrls1]

Surprised you found it was cracked. Good job fixing it and the reinforcement parts look to be worth the cost.

[@Mr_stg]

A lot of people say to put self ending primer so it doesn’t rust in between the plates and frame but I believe if you weld all around like how you did it will be find, nun the less another great informative video!

[@TenzaMotorsports]

I normally use weld through primer but I was out. That was my thought, full weld should be ok. at least for a while.

[@TheFoxSaid]

You will not be fine. I cant tell you how many of these I see fail a cpl years down the road because there was no weld through primer used, and no seam sealer.

[@Kodai_Kurouchi]

Hell bro, I wish you lived on the east coast. I would help. Oh, and the glue method works well. It's 3M industrial body panel bonding agent. Fun fact did you know that many portion of the unibody aren't welded, and other areas are light stitch welded w/ panel bond. Yeah don't forget you bushing.

[@TenzaMotorsports]

This is true. Panel bond is strong, but I just don’t trust it on this item. The forces at hand here are crazy. Using panel bond on a lightweight parts with lots of surface area, don’t compare to a subframe that needs to handle the numbers I’m producing. I wouldn’t see an issues with a stock 330 or lower. But m3 and anything modified. Weld on is the only way to go!

[@TheFoxSaid]

Don't glue on your plates. When the factory uses panel bond for structure they are under vacuum conditions, in a clean room. I guarantee the job you're doing in your driveway will have voids. You could knock those plates off with a hammer. Plus, its only part of the job. All you are doing is dispersing load on ONE panel. BMW already proved that this method alone will not solve the problem, it just moves it (yes the foam failed as well). To do this job correctly it involves cutting into the trunk area and behind the seat to expose the top side of the reciever plate. This is where I typically see the most damage. You then drill out the factory spot welds, and re-welding with full pen all the way through to the reinforcement plates. You also tie in and plug weld above the receiver plate itself. The other method is to either weld in a vance bar or run a full tower brace. Some drift guys get away with epoxy plates and a tower brace, but those cars are typically fully caged as well. Im also convinced that most of the guys making this claim, do not do regular inspections on their chassis and its just a matter of time.

[@Kodai_Kurouchi]

Yeah not fully true, but this message may miss you like the one I just replied too. Referring to your reply above. Using 3M 07333 plus spot welds would create a better surface area. While using top plates from back seat and rear strut towers. Remember the OEM solution was to use foam to reinforce this area.