My top rope anchor setup

Here's an anchor that I've been developing for a while now, there's a reason for everything and I can always take the kit apart to use the basic materials for whatever I need.
patron: / ryantilleyclimbinganda...
Instagram: rtillson_

[@fire_n_ice1984]

I use 3 opposed ovals for my master point on TP. The wider surface area makes for a smoother decent. Eliminates the sharp bend with 1 or 2 biners.

[@namelastname2449]

Thanks for this Ryan!!

[@beingaware8542]

Awesome!!

[@paulgaras2606]

Nice. I’m kinda sketched out by some of the stuff people say is “safe” but this looks like physics wouldn’t disagree with you.

[@romanrogowski1752]

Hey Ryan, great video! Thanks for providing so much value through your amazing video content and clear explanations. When you are out on a day of single-pitch guiding, do you usually bring a static rope for top-access climbs? I often find myself having to build an upper master point/instructor's tether with the rope and tethering out toward the cliff edge in order to safely reach the bolts.

[@bookas4u]

Wouldn't it just be less effort to just something simple like the Petzl rescue pulley for a top rope if the point is to recreate less pinching on the rope? I am thinking though that perhaps you might need to back the pulley up if it's a very simple one... maybe.. I really don't know if it would be smart in general, but I think arborists use them?

[@sethismename7499]

Ya we use them quite a bit in tree stuff. Notch has one with three attachment points as well

[@ryantilley9063]

You do want some friction in the system, adding a pulley at the top would actually be to little friction because the friction at the anchor can be useful for some things. For example if you have a heavier climber and a lighter belayer, if you have some friction in the anchor it could help the belayer not get pulled off the ground as much. The extra friction is also really useful for folks just learning how to belay with finding the right lower speed, most of the time they will have their break hand a little too loose, if you have a pulley at the top the climber will be dropped to the ground before the belayer would even know it.

[@trailslippah]

Where are you located?

[@dougschwarz9510]

Thanks for this video. I just went TR with a bunch of friends and and was getting stressed about my brand new rope getting abused. Dumb question, but is the mixing of locking and non locking at the bolts and master point to save a bit of time and money, or is there a technical advantage?

[@jeffreyschmidt3997]

I think it's weight and maybe a little bit of money

[@ryantilley9063]

It’s mainly to help spread out my resources among all my anchors. I’m usually setting up 2-4 anchors at a time, so this’ll help me not need to buy 24 locking carabiners. There’s no reason why you wouldn’t just put lockers on all points but it does help with wear and keeping a certain amount of lockers on my harness in case I have to pull any guide shenanigans.

[@rickhaller3328]

How long is a double length sling ?

[@ryantilley9063]

120cm or 48in.

[@rickhaller3328]

@@ryantilley9063 Thank you. I’m just learning, so I gotta ask questions.