How to Build Top Rope Anchors for Ice Climbing

Lindsay Fixmer, AMGA certified Rock and Alpine Guide, explains how to build a top rope anchor for ice climbing.

[@ledged_up]

Great video, I agree with the comment below about backing up the clove hitch with a Fig 8 on a bight just in case you screwed up the hitch (tied a munter by mistake for example). But this video really helped me practice before my trip to Ouray, thanks!

[@misterlarryb]

Another great video by OR, AMGA and Lindsay! Of course, there are many variations depending on environment, terrain, anchors, gear and personal preferences. At 0:38, it may be good practice and good modeling to back up the clove with a hard closure (Fig8oaB clipped to the bolt), but with all that extra rope piled back there, that clove isn't going anywhere. Nice repeated and slow demo on tying the BHK. Nice fast-forward to save time when clipping in and coiling the climbing rope. Around 1:42 - "I'll have already made sure no one is below me when I toss these ends" - not sure how you did that without being on a tether to look over the edge. Isn't that the whole reason for yelling ROPE but then WAITING to hear nothing (no one there, or no one paying attention!) or screams of protest before tossing the rope? Usually drives me nuts to see most folks yell ROPE at the same time they toss it. One point off (out of a hundred!) at 3:12 for not calling that knot a HALF double fisherman's. Nothing wrong with the F8oaB ("bight knot") at 3:50, but since the first (bolted) system used a clove for EQ adjustment, why not use it again on the tree anchor for consistency, clarity and to reinforce how to use the clove for the same adjustability? Not wrong, just different. Thanks again!

[@akaTheDevil]

Trees are no longer recommended to use as anchor in Ouray park since most of them are dead due to the beetles.

[@juanchotowers]

very similar to the SPI top rope systems, makes sense!

[@joseignaciosalamanca2500]

thanks very usefull! my problem is that I just arrived to Swizterland and I dont know anyone who ice climbs so I wanna top rope self-belaying my self with a micro traxion and a grigri. what do you think about this?

[@misterlarryb]

Jose- I think you should make friends! Between social media and guide services and gear shops, there should be many ways to find climbing partners. Good luck, be safe, have fun!

[@joseignaciosalamanca2500]

@@misterlarryb yep i did. I payed a guide with a group and ended up climbing after with the lads from the group. Also tried tr soloing a couple times and worked fine, with a micro traxion and a mini traxion.

[@XPrincess30]

@@misterlarryb lol.

[@rzwerlein]

Make a bight with the excess on the clove hitch side and clip it into the ‘biner too…..probably won’t ever need it but it’s another level of protection……a noob could mess up a hitch🤷🏼‍♂️

[@XPrincess30]

i dont like this instructor

[@TR-nw8hz]

Nothing like a woman teaching beginners knots that could kill them

[@KrAm8452]

care to elaborate

[@xmnemonic]

How does a knot kill someone

[@rgr195]

a) If you're a beginner maybe you shouldn't be setting up an anchor, b) those knots are perfectly fine

[@profd65]

Nothing like a know-nothing criticising people who've forgotten more about climbing than he'll ever know. Most beginners are in a climbing gym, dipsh-t; they're not building anchors at the top of ice routes.

[@XPrincess30]

@@xmnemonic you must be new here..