How to hack / derestrict your ebike for free

[@warrenharper]

The new magnet I've started using amzn.to/3DAeXCq

[@markcunningham2905]

If its.a.peddle.assist why did you peddle hell for.leather, when you only needed.to.peddle.just enough to let the motor do the work. You'd of gone as fast on a normal bike with no motor.

[@TheZerosd]

@@markcunningham2905 true that this motors have auto output of power when u paddle

[@outdoorstylelife]

Bro, try this next time: As you apply the electrical tape, stretch it as you stick it, kind hard to explain, like stick the first little bit like normal, and then stretch it a lot as you keep sticking it, it may change color a little bit, what this does is it turns the tape into a sort of elastic band as well, and it applies constant pressure just like an elastic band, then don't cut it with a scissor, instead stretch it so much that you actually tear it and in the same motion pass your finger over it so it sticks, that way it will never come undone. An electrician taught me that.

[@RohitSingh-ex1ut]

Can vouch for this, this is how my dad taught me

[@Jandejongjong]

You can also use glue... you can later tell people I told you to.

[@chrisk9808]

@@Jandejongjong "some guy on the internet taught me that!" -me with most things.

[@LeighWinspear]

Your talking about , self amalgamating tape. This is also an electrical tape but designed for long term outdoor applications. It is a more durable tape than the basic, leccy tape that us electricians use!. Me and my son have used self amalgamating tape to fix our Radio controlled cars too. Brilliant stuff.

[@chamaoutdooradventures234]

@@LeighWinspear will any tape work

[@PapaChacha42]

This is brilliantly simple, and also taught me how part of the e-support system on our bikes worked. Mega-thumbs up!

[@Motcha82]

Rider from Brazil here, and due to Brazil's legislation the speed limit on eletric bikes sold here is only 25 km/h, wich is around 15 miles per hour....so you lose assistance too soon....Used your hack and it work perfectly! Thanks for sharing! My bike is a Oggi 8.3 2021 with shimano steps E7000

[@dadoruss]

ta de sacanagem que isso funciona, sensacional tem como gravar um video tipo top speed na cidade ou algo do tipo

[@Motcha82]

@@dadoruss funcionou maravilhosamente por dois dias! Kkkk Depois no meio de uma trilha deu erro no computador e a bike parou de funcionar... Tive que voltar pra configuração de fabrica e ela voltou a funcionar normal. Acho que o computador deve reconhecer que o padrão de giro muda.... Os giros do pedivela são muito diferentes da roda

[@braian_nunes]

@@Motcha82 resumindo… não compensa :(. Pelo que entendi, a atualização de firmware corrigiu isso, paciência :/

[@firefox2474]

Boa tarde amigo ! Estou querendo fazer isso na minha bike tmbm,deu algum erro na sua bike depois de ter feito esse processo aí?

[@kylestevenson5911]

Does it work with all the most recent software updates

[@Studeo5150]

Thank you. I went for my first ride and was shocked when the motor decided it had helped me enough. So, straight to KZbin. Yours was the third video I saw on the subject. Perfect solution. I used a ferrite Magnet 20x15x5. It works spinning the cranks, I'm about to go out and try it in the field. Thank you for your effort in sharing this simple work around.

[@Studeo5150]

. . . and it worked perfectly for 2 1/2 rides. Better than you could imagine to have all that power available. Brilliant to have the boost to escape traffic running at the speed limit !!! However, it stopped one hour away from my start with a tough return with threatening rain. Error EO14. Good honest ride back. I'm trying to fix it now. Maybe my cheaper magnet idea was not good enough.

[@Studeo5150]

A day later and finally back to normal. Sadly, for now, back to the original sensor setup. Grrr. It's not something I want to stay with at all. There's a lot of drag when you hit that 25kph. To get the thing working again, I had to space the sensor about 8mm closer to the magnet. Now, this was after trying more magnets on the crank, and even a stronger magnet on the original. It may well be that i did not have my magnet the right way around when I retried it after the initial failure. I am yet to sort out the polarity or power requirements for a magnet. Maybe, i'll just get the magnet that is closest to what Warren Harper suggested. Then I imagine I would have to replicate the polarity of the original magnet. The question remains as to why my initial setup failed. Maybe my magnet was too weak. Maybe the software picked up an issue with the cadence matching the input. Oh - the advice from Shimano, to fix E014, was to turn the crank clockwise, perhaps up to 100 times Shimano writes . . . I can only imagine they forgot to say "Clockwise when facing the chain side" - unless there's a default attitude that I am unaware of.

[@Jord0699]

Nice replies. I’ve recently heard that some firmware detects for this hack and apparently will bring up the error message

[@geu6270]

@@Studeo5150 yep Too bad shimano sucks so bad. I had the same problem an hour into my ride. My Giant Syncdrive motors get a speed sensor error with this trick also but as long as it gets a signal the next rotation it still works !!!! 💪 plus giant's firmware system gives u 5!! Levels of assist and you can set high/med./low in each one of those modes ! Also they have so many sensors at differing degrees of rotation that it is a incredibly responsive ride !!! Oh yeah, did I say Shim sucks almost as bad as Bosh firmware 🙄 E014 - Speed sensor may be installed in the wrong position Restrictions: No power assist while riding Remedy: Amend position of speed sensor and magnet unit, turn on power and rotate crank clockwise until error resolves. This may take up to 100 rotations.

[@freeforester1717]

@@Studeo5150 I’ve heard that a weaker magnet somewhat counterintuitively throws a larger magnetic field, so it may be worth trying a weaker rather than stronger magnet. A family member did this hack to his Bosch motor, still working well, but when tried on the shimano motor of his wife’s e bike, it bricked with E014 after only a couple of Kms, so not good. Guessing there is a monitor at work suggesting the motor should shut down (or that sort of diagnostic) in the event of constantly low rpm of the sensor magnet relative to the speed or power drain - wondering whether a diametrically opposed second magnet fixed onto an extended stick, itself fixed

[@Ramon51650]

I commute everyday and frankly I'm miffed that the stock rent-a-bikes pass me at light-speed. My bike is a Tern Vektron and while all the features are good, the max speed is bothersome. Thanks for posting this!

[@Mishakol1290]

Lower speeds are safer, bikes can mess ya up if you crash them. I mean, extra speed is good just wear a helmet I think its a law in my state bikes above 21 mph you have to wear a helmet.

[@alexsavastru8125]

​@@Mishakol1290i ate shit recently on my bike, right as I was entering a paved indoor warehouse (slick surface) and it wasn't comfortable. I was going like 16kph/10mph so yeah, unless you have guaranteed traction from the surface you're riding on, you're far better off with the stock speed. Commuting ain't that bad, as I can go where mopeds/motorcycles/cars aren't allowed to go and while saving an extra few minutes sounds cool, keeping my skin sounds even cooler.

[@BakiSenshi]

"Pay close attention to the clock speeder and the Shimano speeder" proceeds to ride all squirrelly, lol.

[@davidgad3304]

Great video, now my bike ride is much smoother, no more "jerking". Thanks a lot! Motor I have is SHIMANO E5000, 36V, 250W, 40Nm.

[@NatTardis]

Hi mate if you're still there could you tell me how long this worked? If not forever. Got this same motor here and I am reading about this "E014" error code. Wondering if the E5000 throws that error as well.

[@davidgad3304]

@@NatTardis It only worked like 3 months, then came the error that hasnt been fixed yet.

[@nilsfrahm1323]

don't use just tape, tape adhesive loosens due to heat and can come undore, better to secure also with some zip ties.

[@aodlbxkskfbbfkfnqlegknenf781]

"look at the mp/h" everything starts to shake lmao

[@grutzmac]

FYI. This will work for a short time and then your STEPS system will throw an error code, E014. At this point you have to reinstall the system to factory, after you do this and 100 + pedal strokes it will work again. Not a long term solution.

[@adamszendihorvath683]

Hi, i have the same error code, but i don't know how can I reinstall it to factory. can you tell me, or it can be done only in the e-bike service. thanks!

[@hra850207]

@@adamszendihorvath683 put the sensor back to original position. Then make 100 pedalstrokes and the motor will start again.

[@Evodany]

Same problem i replace in the factory position, what a miss

[@adamsimenko2384]

Had the same issue on my steps. Tried with 2 magnets on chain ring and works a treat now.

[@mofalaufkultur46]

@@adamsimenko2384 what software you have 4.7.1?

[@mikecastro9039]

Dude-great hack! This allows full elimination of the top end cutoff vs other like the hack for my Levo Comp which only allows a max of ~ 23mph.

[@Wabsy1]

Would this work on the levo s

[@urbantone]

Simple hack thanks Be aware to make a softer loop of the cable so it don’t stretch so much

[@thra5herxb12s]

You will find that if you raise your saddle height to get a full leg push, it will be a lot easier to pedal.

[@Ballefransenfmfkfkfk]

I bought my e bike and the person before had already done this XD

[@MarlaDurden-y3p]

The WARNING I wish I read in the comments before I tried this on my Whyte Coniston with Shimano Steps e5000. Like everyone else says - this worked a treat for the first 10km. After that, mid ride the motor stopped assisting and the screen showed E014. I tried everything I found online to clear this error, but nothing worked. I brought the brand new ebike back to the retailer for service and they weren't able to clear the error either and said because it indicates an attempt to deristrict the bike, my warranty was void - despite bringing it to them in original setup (without he magnets etc). I am still looking for a solution at the time of writing, the bike's been "bricked" for over two months now! From what I've read online since, it seems that Shimano has updated the firmware so that the system can detect when the crank rotations match the faked speed and produce the error

[@Dgaftired]

Im glad you posted this because this is the exact bike I just got and was about to do this until i read this. Thanks

[@michaelherron4306]

As someone here said - put it back together and spin the wheel at least 100 times to re set

[@morkula0]

I had that same problem and it fixed when i put the bike on bikestand and spinned the cranks about 100 times

[@fordnicushellraiser2664]

You have to put it back on the original state, and then when its on, you have to spin the crank (the thing where you put your feet on) for at least 100 times, meanwhile you wil see the computer gets in his original program wich he showing the speed and other more things.

[@mramigo3506]

hoi orgineel maken 50x trappen dan komt alles goed weer 👍👍😊

[@Comtecracing]

Just done it on a brand new latest Bosh, works a treat, 7mph is now 23 mph, only cost a tie wrap and £1 magnet.. great tip thanks

[@zalle1]

How? The sensor now is in the back...

[@Comtecracing]

@@zalle1 No its not

[@darrenfleming6225]

Which model of bike? And what year

[@Zjackson17]

No errors?

[@KDa-i6r]

@@Zjackson17it is possible to recieve error code, use a wider more powerful magnet instead

[@mikeurban3996]

I did this on my Shimano 'Steps' motor / controller, and it worked great for 3 miles, then completely shut down and gave an "EO14" error message. I see other people have had this same problem. To fix the problem, put it all back together original, then spin the rear wheel at least 100 revolutions... should do the trick.

[@Ubaid163]

No one able to solve my problem. Brother I have an e bike named as Raymon hardray 4.0. It has a yamaha mid drive motor and a yamaha display. I tried to increase the speed of the bike by putting magnet to pedals and removing sensor from its original place.. it worked perfectly but suddenly it stopped working completely. It gives very little peddle assist. Before I could go max 16miles but now the motor doesn’t support 5 miles. The change in the display that appears after this problem is that the range shown on the display is blinking. It never blinked before. Please help me. I haven’t found any video to solve this problem. No one in my area is able to identify the problem

[@deivisss01]

​@@Ubaid163have you found the issue? Same problem for me

[@Ubaid163]

@@deivisss01 didn't find the issue but my bike is ok now after riding 60miles

[@Ubaid163]

@@deivisss01 it got fixed on its own

[@nannermakuk]

Super clear, easy instructions. Cheap to free fix. Thank you.

[@jordidiego2149]

Nice Meta power! I think I’ll try that hack. At the woods, 25kph is ok but for commuting is quite short, 30-35 kph would be great.

[@rpgPalette]

Yes, e-bike is heavy and has motor resistance, so it's harder to pedal on asphalt. On a normal mountain bike with 3 bar in wheels, I easily achieve (according to GPS) 42km/h on flat surface without effort.

[@bennywalker1020]

@@rpgPalette What bike do you use and with what motor? What modification have you done?

[@rpgPalette]

Benny Walker Ghost kato with e8000, I used STunlocker from google store to make from EU to US (32km/h) and decreased circumference (double the speed). Everything costs 35 dollars (app+license). I found my perfect speed on asphalt - 38km/h in eco. My local trail is 8km with (5% uphill all the way) from my home and 25km/h limit was very frustrating. Now I am really happy, riding with 2 lights even during the day (front, rear),very carefully.

[@bennywalker1020]

@@rpgPalette Would you recommend the Shalini E8000 over last say a Bosch CX 2019 or 2020?

[@rpgPalette]

Benny Walker I have ridden bosch only in summer 2018, it felt like all the torque was only in high cadence zone 85-115rpm, also resistance after 25 was higher, that's why I have chosen shimano, it felt like torque range is in 55-110 rpm and resistance was lower, that was better for me. I know that now shimano e8000 is very old and there are newer ebike motors with lower resistance, more power, wider torque range, and in my opinion bosch will be more reliable after some time, but I don't know how easy and cheap is to unlock them. I think that newer shimano e7000 with lower power and lower resistance can also be unlocked for 35$ from the same app.

[@arjanm3437]

Thx man! Works perfect with the Impulse motor. Original speedlimit was 27 km/h. Now with GPS it's closer to 40 km/h. But what i like most is just 30-32 km/h peddeling speed. Great hack...stay safe!

[@johnross2924]

Jeeze, you should try the 15mph limit here in the UK 😏

[@bjeffalicious]

@John Rose: Fyi, 15 mph should be somewhere around 27 km/h, actually :) Maybe a little less, like 25 km/h, which is the speed limit in Norway. But when my bike was new it went easily up to 31 km/h. Now my Impulse is 10 years old, going at max 18 km/h, which equals about 10 mph...

[@robinude6347]

I have his hack on my impulse 2.0. I am doing 60kmh on strights but the shifters are not so accurate, sometimes it fails to shift and the chain as come of one time. Do you think it as to do with the hack?

[@seccosec]

@@robinude6347Lol no you didn’t. Motors are not powerfull enough to reach 60 even unbridled.

[@ROIFEIN]

Working great ! ! ! Off road ride Average speed 28 km Max speed 42 km 😁

[@mjcambron]

FYI, Great hack! It looks like you could cut the tie-wraps that secure the sensor cable to the chain stay move the sensor over to the seat tube which might provide more flexibility in terms of sensor and magnet placement.

[@TheNordog]

I find that my Bosh powered eBike takes me quickly on starting of in traffic or up the local hills fine and then some, just because the motor switches off at 16 mph does not mean I stop peddling I rare go that slow even at my age of 74. I just wish that it help slow me down on steep descents and recharge the battery. So far my top speed down a local decent is around 43 mph.

[@thra5herxb12s]

Sounds like a good system. The hub motors we used to sell on our Power Bikes and Giants caused a strong resistance when you tried to out pedal the motor because the motor never cuts out all the time you pedal. I have tried a few different makes that Sales reps from various companies have tried to get us to sell for them but the only ones that we were happy to sell sadly were the restricted EU legal versions for legal reasons. Personally I would buy a kit with twist throttle and build my own. If I didn't already have an 80cc motorised bicycle that is.👍

[@socialnutrients3217]

I am so glad that wisdom is also a factor of these comments, accidents can increase with speed and also what is the impact of using more power, are we increasing our carbon footprint merely to get somewhere quicker? Where will this lead us in the LONGTERM. don't loose your principles for a quicker ride.

[@chrro466]

At 74 u won’t bounce you’ll break 🙄

[@Blueknight1960]

Social Nutjob, It's electric, what carbon foot print are you talking about?

[@Blueknight1960]

@@mtuz8356 Just goes to show those fruitcakes are never satisfied. 1st it's emissions from cars with gas engines, everybody needs to start using other sources like batteries. Ok, we'll try it. 2nd, Now bigger batteries are a problem. When will they be happy?

[@bob-kv9nb]

did this on my tunturi E275(shimano parts) and got it up to 30-35mph!!

[@frans6153]

Suomi mainittu

[@veetipiiroinen7954]

Millanen magneetti siinä pitää olla?

[@bob-kv9nb]

Just the one that you get when you purchase the bike

[@veetipiiroinen7954]

bob thx i have tunturi e290

[@bob-kv9nb]

@@veetipiiroinen7954 yeah nice, just as a warning your battery gets drained quick as fk when you do this

[@montagepl]

You could place original round magnet on the top edge of crank shaft not at a side where is not enough space.

[@SonnyDarvish]

When you started talking about the magnet, I was thinking about a mechanism to convert the wheel's speed from 2 to 1, basically setting the limit to 50 km/h. Crank arm is a good idea, but it's a known method by these brands. I'm not trying this on my bosch smart system, because it has a built-in GPS and it could probably detect the mismatch and brick it.

[@priestrabb66]

Just have to keep in mind that after u do this, bike insurance is out, so dont forget to put everything back in case u have to visit the store again coz something needs to be repaired... at least that how the whole thing works in Germany.

[@hingo078]

yea man pretty sure its the same everywhere else too

[@TheLordofdrift]

I was just wondering if this would put out an error code with diagnostic tool???

[@alphonsotate2982]

@@hingo078 GLAD i LIVE IN THE USA no restriction's just ride sensible and responsible

[@alphonsotate2982]

@Steve D as long as it got working pedals and you ride slow and sensible they do not care what class bike it is I ride on any bike path and I take the bike in the subway and actually pedal the bike my build has a powerful motor for riding the street and a small second motor system that I can use .

[@fordnicushellraiser2664]

​@@alphonsotate2982 yeah its crazy, only in Europe things are restricted 😑

[@andrewdart3367]

Great hack. So simple to do wish I’d thought of it. I can ride on the flat around 27 mph now with the motor running as the computer thinks I’m doing around 6mph Thanks 👍🏻👍🏻

[@coesforever1735]

So you think I can do that to my Trek XM700+? I mean top speed is 28mph but can it be more by doing that?

[@chrisk9808]

@@coesforever1735 I'm guessing it's going to be closer to 40mph. Excited to give it a shot!! Have you tried yet?

[@coesforever1735]

@@chrisk9808 . I haven't tried yet but I might not mess with it

[@barryevans9235]

Surely this must reduce the range?

[@andrewdart3367]

@@barryevans9235 Yes but it’s worth it. 😀

[@muslimsfortulsigabbard8646]

Freakantastic! I got a Trek sport today and coming from 750W Bafang that speed limit was a HUGE bummer! Now it is going probably 40km/h on assitance! Thank you so much for clear instruction.

[@muslimsfortulsigabbard8646]

Got the error! Don't bother try this method or you regret it!

[@HjMaswadyHjAmjah]

Maybe get the Bafang 1000w next? ;-)

[@aussierednecksinger28]

Maybe go into the computer and set your wheel size to 20 or 16 inch. Shouldn't get the error then. Then do a speed test with a GPS and note your real speeds to your reading so you know what you're actually doing. Change it back when you sell the bike and your mileage will be reading lower than you've actually done. 😉

[@anthonyiocca5683]

@@aussierednecksinger28that would be dishonest, repent.

[@eXcaliber7]

I'm the owner of HaiBike All Track 4 Bosh motor. I did it exactly like on video. It is actually working. Now from 25 km/h I can make easily close to 40 km/h and THIS is enjoyable riding! I got 9 rear gear, if I put a 12 gear cassette on the back, I would hit probably 60 km/h. But I don't need that. 40km/h is enough for me to fully enjoy the ride. I'm still safe when society is around. Thank you for this video.

[@vonpupees]

the correct method if you like your warranty :)

[@33gate1]

I am going to do this, 15mph in the U.K sucks. Now i can fly free, no restrictions 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻

[@k1ortia]

i can ride faster then that with just my legs... and they wonder why people are making their own 1500w-2000w+ creations that easily do 30mph+

[@reggiecorey4573]

Its illegal to do more than 15 in the U.K you muppet

[@33gate1]

Reggie Corey look who we have here, the KZbin police. Idiot!

[@user-rq3gr8pj8t]

@@reggiecorey4573 reggie !! Reggie !! Reggie reggie !! Ye dinners ready.lol!!

[@Streeknine]

Release the Krakken!

[@munthir70]

It worket on my White e6010. I did not purchase anything. But it went crazy 40 km/h. I restored it to the original setting

[@TheLordofdrift]

Lol so did i

[@Audioslaaf]

This is GREAT! My MTB equipped with a Shimano DU-E7000 motor just went from pretty fun to mental. I’ve only had it for about a week and the 25km/h limiter was already starting to annoy me. As soon as I’d go any faster than 25km/h the motor would just stop, giving me the feeling that the bike was trying to push me backwards. And lets face it, 25km/h is where it starts to get fun to ride a bike like this. With this helpful little tweak I just managed to hit 45,5km/h, and doing around 40 for a sustained period is doable. All in all I’m very pleased, so thank you very much for sharing this little tweak. I just have one concern. Now I’m not entirely sure if this is true, but I suspect the electric motor is having to work quite a bit harder now, thus potentially shortening it’s lifespan. Could anybody elaborate on this? I’d hate to muck up the motor just for the sake of some extra speed. -update- As expected, this worked for about 35km before Shimano's latest software detected tampering, threw an e14 error and cut the electric motor. It was fun while it lasted, but unfortunately I had to revert to the factory setup to get the motor working again. Back to turtle speed now. :-(

[@katherinelangford981]

Question: "latest software". Does that mean it updates or does that mean you have a newer model bike?

[@Audioslaaf]

@@katherinelangford981 Hi Katherine. It’s the software in the electric motor. Newer versions can detect tampering and will shut down the motor. There are ways to revert/downgrade to previous versions which do not do this, but I’m not entirely comfortable sharing them here. An internet search helped me fix it, something with an android app and “unlock” and stuff. Try it. :) P.S. it’s not allowed by law to do this, be safe. :)

[@katherinelangford981]

@@Audioslaaf thanks for the info. I dont even have a bike at this point. Well I have 2 non powered bikes and I'm considering getting my motorcycle license actually but even getting 35 km/hr would get me to work 40km away in decent time. Of course I'm sure that takes quite a bit more power which is the next step in my figuring this all out. The range without spending $2500-3500 cdn in the bike. I'm thinking a model i can swap batteries out on mid ride of necessary. But all that is adding up to not a very economical option and just a cheap, decent motorcycle may actually be more suitable. But thank you for the info I'm going to keep researching might come across something I can work with.

[@dougfurr5217]

Just change the wheel size to 16 or 19" FOR 26" wheels in programing, and turn MPH to KPH. Your reading will still be close to accurate MPH and give you a higher top speed.

[@MichaelMichael-sz9fx]

These changes is not available for a regular customer.

[@sogor123]

Works perfect on my haibike bosch 2014. Thx!!!

[@rlbrett]

Just curious, what speeds are you attaining now with your unrestricted bike? Thank you.

[@wardwyseur]

@@rlbrett i did 50 km/h

[@artgreg2296]

Hello sir I am very interested since I read everywhere on the web since 2011 version bosch has set a restriction against that. But you managed to do it?

[@Deggoo]

What is the maximum speed?

[@artgreg2296]

@@jeltai5151 thanks for the link to speedbox i already mounted 1 myself on one of my bike. the idea was to avoid that

[@johnwoolley2241]

I did a similar trick with my Trek ebike with a Bosch motor, had to change mph to kph for it to work.

[@W0rp3D]

How did you get the sensor back that far? I have a firefly fs5 and the cable goes straight into the arm, it's not looking enough to get back to the cranks

[@johnwoolley2241]

@@W0rp3D It only needs to go as far as the spindle on the pedal as this is where you attach a small magnet. I zip tide on top of the arm with the senser facing out there are video's on KZbin showing how to do it.

[@W0rp3D]

@@johnwoolley2241 mine wasn't so simple, the sensor wouldn't stretch forward enough to reach the pedal, I had to tape a bit of aluminum to the crank to extend the magnet further back, it was dodgy but it worked, I'll probably just get the plug in module when I increase the front sprocket from 15 to 22 teeth

[@davidgreenall9966]

@@johnwoolley2241 how did u change from mph to kph i got error wen tryed the hack or is that cuz the senors not in line proper?

[@NicksBikes]

I really did try to read the speedo! I can confirm this works on my Giant Talon-E with the Yamaha Sync drive pro motor. Except the cadence sensor throws a code every now and then, usually when flying downhill. But power off and on clears the code and off you go. I can hit about 45 km/h before I run out of puff

[@Ivan-nf9ex]

Works on my shimano e7000 perfectly! Thank you so much for the advice. The speedometer is not accurate but that does not bother me at all. Great video!

[@precooledgiant7307]

What sort of speed you average now without the restriction?

[@groengm2012]

After the warranty is up on my E 7000 is up this looks like a plan. I to would like to know what speed increases and how it changed your performance and settings

[@petervanreijn6184]

Any error codes (E014)?

[@jccpro]

@@petervanreijn6184 mine yep... and e010

[@geu6270]

@@petervanreijn6184 yep

[@carlonevs2137]

My main problem is running from the dogs, now it seems I will have no more problems ! Thanks !

[@boriswiessler9226]

Try pressing the light button 5 times in rapid succession and this unrestricted my Dirt E and I tested it to 50KM/h and the motor was still assisting. So maybe you can avoid the hack with the magnets. The dealers do exactly the same but they will not tell you. Possibly it is the most well-kept secret. My dealer did this procedure for me the first time round but would not tell me exactly what he did but then I found some clues on the internet and 5 time light button worked for me.

[@terb5804]

WHAT MOTOR DO YOU HAVE?

[@Zjackson17]

Googled it but found nothing

[@guvenmeyvac1664]

Thank you very much, it works great. I have Shimano 8000 and it worked. I attached two small cylindrical neodymium magnets of 16000 Gause power directly to the pedal back nut. Since it is very strong, I wanted it to stay away from the motor so that the motor electronics would not be affected. I positioned the sensor 1 cm away from it. I used it all day and it did not give any errors. .

[@leescoey]

hi is it still working now with no error codes any advice would be greatful

[@theangkorwatt3468]

Works perfectly on my Giant Stance e+ 2020. Thankyou so much man, I am returning the crap speed box 2.0 that didn’t work and now I got it unlocked for free.

[@jamieparkinson2399]

Out of curiousity I have a giant e stance +2 2020, just done this and it works but now i have a red light on the control now, it still works however but doesn’t let you change modes and doesn’t feel quite like boost mode but still does 30mph when pushing on a flat. Did you encounter this?

[@fergusl711]

Want to try this on my giant stance 2021 but a bit worried about red lights etc, would it go back to normal if you put it back where it was I wonder?

[@jimjim2822]

I’ve got the 2021 giant e stance 3. I’m also worried about the red light. Should I be worried??

[@theangkorwatt3468]

@@jamieparkinson2399 yes

[@theangkorwatt3468]

@@fergusl711 yes

[@livingladolcevita7318]

I had a Kalkoff pedal assist once and just changed the size of the sprocket on the motor, this was supplied by Kalkoff themselves.

[@AndreasBlomBakke]

If you have an old damaged HDD lying around, you can probably dismantle it and use the magnets from there. Note that they are not at all corrosion resistant, so cover it well with epoxy or glue.

[@linkeddevices]

This I what I was thinking but with a generic airpod or something with enough flux you can just send it a blast if 65hz (usually as powerful as an earbud gets). Then just play a Bluetooth track with a pulse at any rhythm. You can use the light pulse from the break light even as the default pace since that already has a duty cycle that's pretty slow.

[@SonnyDarvish]

Wow how expensive is a magnet that you're suggesting an old HDD? if it's old HDD, why are you keeping it to destroy it risk this ebike speed method?

[@underwheres]

😀 I just removed the sensor today from the original position but my bike didn't work. I now know the "Shimano" must face outside. I will try tonight again! thanks for the information

[@renegadeflyer2]

For a speed sensor magnet, use as pill shaped magnet, should be easily found in hardware stores. I attach it to the pedal shaft. It's neat and it stays in place unless it gets hit with something. I haven't lost one yet.

[@Venus1Star]

Ebikers get even more pathetic.

[@ugokus]

Could you please share an example of magnet?

[@miliardercalifornia]

Heeey I just tested your trick aaaand it wooorked I recorded 37 in flat and 47 in downhill I work as delivery and it helos me alot thanks alot 😍😍😘😘

[@fredericomozelli8975]

Works great! Simple, Fast, no damage.

[@jameswatkin3300]

Just done this with my Giant Roam E+ GTS 2022, gone from 15mph to 25mph, felt the thrust straight away 🤣 need to get a new speed computer for the bike though 😅

[@pjellingsen]

love it!! clever and simple way around that silly limit.

[@ronyban2953]

I'm delivering and I appreciate the efficiency of the work in your own way 👍

[@demitriinsanti1162]

I just moved the magnet on the wheel. And seems to work also. Cause i thought if its not gonna give the correct reading then mightaswell have no reading but can still change eco etc. Wouldnt this have the same effect when it comes to speed. Went upto 35 klm/hr motor was still engaged.

[@Mdsonic77]

Just did this today for my Giant Talon +3 works great got up to 24mph and the motor did not restrict the motor at all.

[@Bangandthedirtisgone]

18mph! I dream of that! - 15mph limit here in the UK! Painfully slow on the road and causes traffic to overtake more than is necessary = more chance of a close pass and/or accident. I reckon it should be at least 25mph assistance on the road and this is one reason why people do this and circumvent the law. Wake up UK!

[@Bergwacht]

same in germany... and e-scooter just allowerd with 20 kmh, insurance, vehicle documents and license plate ...

[@PhilCrombieMTB]

Sadly i disagree. I comuute on normal push bike and 900cc motorbike. Ive seen some muppets on throttle ebikes with no road sense (or insurance probably) with no roadsense , flying through the middle of the traffic. I think 15.1mph is a good happy medium, if its raised then they should have to do a cbt and get some insurance. :p PS i have an ebike too :p and think the hack is great but best kept for smashing up off road climbs. :)

[@Bangandthedirtisgone]

Phil Crombie I wouldn’t mind having to do a CBT (poss insurance as long as it’s not ludicrous) for the advantage I’d get in terms of real world practicality. Unfortunately traffic is getting heavier and faster these days and there’s a lot of pressure to keep up when your max assisted speed is half that or less of the cars. There’s idiots in/on every form of transport, i just don’t get why an unpowered bicycle is allowed to go at any speed but one that’s marginally heavier with a little motor in is isn’t. I think a CBT or special test for higher powered ebikes is s good idea and maybe a plate or disc to display your certification. The 15mph limit could stay as it is with no change or requirement for the certificate. I just think there should be a stage between that and a motorbike/ped.

[@PhilCrombieMTB]

@@Bangandthedirtisgone Yeah i agree, but I think that people who traval on a normal push bike who can reach higher speeds are probably more used to travelling at that speed and can act & react accordingly. Much like if I put my wife on a 50cc motorbike she would prob be ok, but if i stuck her on a 900cc , she'd kill her self. I also ride road bikes whitout asistance, and avg about 17mph on the road but have experience and confidence. Its like everything i guess, theres always a few bad eggs who spoil it for everyone else. Once last gripe ;) helmets should be compulsory for ALL bikes but especially ones that can travel fast :p

[@Bangandthedirtisgone]

Phil Crombie that’s why there should be an extra category which higher powered ebikes would fall into complete with mandatory training/certification and their own rules. Again, I wouldn’t mind if it gives me extra speed and power but prevents less experienced riders from accessing it easily. I wouldn’t be against helmets for them either. 👍🏻 the technology has changed so much, the gov and insurers (hard to get insurance in e-mopeds) really needs to keep upto speed with it. Eventually everything will be electric anyway.

[@BosniaYUGO]

i did this to my bosch active line plus exactly like this. and it goes now from 25 to 39/40 kmh.. thanks perfect

[@igorv4631]

kako ti sad baterija drzi?

[@BosniaYUGO]

@@igorv4631 isto nemoras uvijek ici oko 45 na sat ponekad idem opet 25 pa ponekad ubrzam. malo brze trosi ali neprimeti se mnogo

[@shaundonovan8780]

I got a day out of this hack and loved it,however i got a E014 error on my second days riding and had to remove the magnet and return the sensor to its original position...fortunately i had taken all the necessary parts to convert it back. Shimano software obviously detects when the speed sensor doesnt match the cadence sensor readings

[@givemeakidney]

I think it's more likely that the software sees that cadence exactly matches the signal pulse from the speed sensor it knows what's happened.

[@michalwiktorow2188]

@@givemeakidney It can also measure speed of discharge of the battery, obviously when going 20mph, 25mph discharge will be much higher, than when bike is restricted. Therefore it calculates "registered distance completed" during discharge and speed of discharge - and compare with speed reading. When they way of, then it assumes that it was tampered. Just btw, although there should be 'turn off' button (just like on cross-motorcycles disabling ABS in sandy terrain uphill climb) because you can drive 'in the wilderness', most of the time, I do not feel that I miss the speed. I am not riding for commute, just 'in nature' (forest, near river) and doing some sightseeing and as I clearly understand high torque need (29ner goes through forest like a champ even on Bosh Active Plus 50nm) I would understand benefits of 75nm, or 120nm. But I am not in a 'hurry' during those trips. I would really prefer "re-gen" to be introduced!

[@rcazzador]

same problem here

[@pkey772]

Im happy to report this was also compatable with my wireless pedals.

[@daytriker]

Another easier hack to get an increase in Assist is to program your wheel size to be smaller. This will throw off your Display readings but you will get Assist up until the wheel rotation is the equivalent of your cut off speed with your correct wheel size. i.e. 16 inch wheel vs 26 inch wheel.

[@GoodGuyBiker]

this is what i did

[@ElieltonLocatelli]

How to do this my friend? For e6010

[@daytriker]

@@ElieltonLocatelli On your Display you should have a back menu that allows you to set your wheel size. Some systems have pre-set wheel sizes while others let you program your specific wheel size. I would check your manual on how to do this or look for the instructions on their website or on a KZbin video.

[@ElieltonLocatelli]

@@daytriker Thanks mann! I have the manual, but dont have this instruction. I'll search better on the internet

[@TheLordofdrift]

@@GoodGuyBiker how?

[@Razerkid99_]

Good idea using the bumpiest and sandiest path to test the bike. Word on the “street” is concrete is much smoother. Cheers

[@scarmelsg3]

Thanks man! You've earned my subscription ;-). It all makes sense to me now, juz after i watched your tutorial i'd try it at once and it works!!🥰. I easily gained 30-40kmh with ease, it means a lot to me, really thank you so much, more power and blessings to your channel, keep it up!😙😀.

[@craigstevens5313]

Thanks bought a new Giant Talon 3 it was hopeless .I moved sensor and replaced magnet as suggested 200 % better 😁👏👍

[@cookwdachshund9902]

Seth's Bike Hacks was right, he predicted the future!

[@mortimer6266]

Worked perfectly on my Giant Talon E. Thanks for this👍 My daily commute is now much more fun (and safe imo).

[@niammcdowell8996]

Just got one of them today, I might have to try now I saw your comment 🤔 🧐

[@mortimer6266]

@@niammcdowell8996 I didn't get the exact same magnet, but a very similar rectangular one. 11kg force on the one I bought. Good luck👍

[@niammcdowell8996]

@@mortimer6266 works a treat

[@jaynhsob3935]

Yes boys have you had any issues at all? Like over heating or anything? And is it the syncdrive motor 70nm or which one if you could reply that’ll be great😊 want to do it too but kinda scared 🤣

[@mortimer6266]

@@jaynhsob3935 i have the SyncDrive Core, 50Nm (Yamaha). After three months my engine stopped working and I'll get a new one on guarantee soon. Not sure if this method is what ruined my engine, but it makes one think. I'll be looking for other tuning methods just to be sure next time. Maybe a chip of some kind.

[@lazurm]

As instructed, I was keeping my eyes on the bike computer and the watch but ended up falling down and hitting my head. After the 3rd time I gave up. Either way, I believe you...trust me.

[@antkiem]

Thank you very much for the video with a great idea. It's very frustrating when the bike slows down after exceeding a certain speed, but now it's pure joy. Thank you!

[@dorel1312]

Mine worked for a day, then I got an error, I put the sensor back to its initial place, cycled for 30 minutes, switched off the battery for a coffee break and the switch died. I couldn’t use the modes as the switch did not communicate with the bike. Luckily one of my pals connected his switch to my bike and got me started. I placed the sensor close to the crank arm again and cycled with the motor derestricted back to the car. When I got home I conducted a motor check and it gave me a cadence error even with the sensor back into its place. I thing the magnet from the crank may still be interfering with the sensor and confuses the software. I bought another switch, this time I opted for e6000 switch and I will give it another go. It is a pity, I hate when the motor stops at 15 miles/hour and I have to drop the cadence. For me is not about abusing the speed is having an interrupted support from the motor.

[@mozzjones6943]

You ended up buying another switch when you could have just bought a tuning dongle lol

[@jacksync8713]

Mozz Jones Hi Mozzarellas, what’s a tuning dongle please ? Thanks

[@Scottx125Productions]

@@jacksync8713 It's a device that allows you to de-restrict your E-bike.

[@jacksync8713]

Scottx125 Productions thanks Scott.

[@MrNickdude27]

It worked fine at first, but after a short time i got a E014 error on the Shimano system. My bike is broken atm because of it. This is not a really good hack in my experience. Still thanks for the video, I learned a lot from it.

[@mikeurban3996]

Put it back the way it was, and make the wheel do at LEAST 100 revolutions. Fixed mine.

[@Liamhirst]

In UK we are limited to 15mph, just did this and doing over 25mph without signs of slowing , liked and subscribed👌

[@Liamhirst]

Update! Just finished a 14 mile ride in the Scottish Highlands with this done, didn't miss once, since chipped a friends bike in the shimano ep8 motor. His lasted a mile before it read 33pmh and cut its self off although he's doing around 8mph. Maybe the new motor can detect the change and cut power but on the shimano e8000 I've rode around 25 mile with this technique an so far so good 👍👌

[@kristiannewman4252]

I live in London so the speed restriction is annoying. I rent an ebike. I'm wondering if I do this will it blow the motor? Because if it won't then I am definitely doing it and then when I need to give it back just put it back to normal

[@jaimesco2013]

thank you for the guide trying this on a norco later this week

[@wardick9]

Thanks for sharing the hack, I have one question though, does this affect the motor in any way as in puts more strain or pressure on it? Thanks 👍🏻

[@joewilliams6596]

Great simple hack. With it and replacing the chain gear to 52 t I cruise at over 40 mph. Whatch out for tickets!

[@NicChristie]

have you been able to maintain this hack on your bike? The upgraded chain helped much? was it 100% necessary?

[@namphu]

I've done this same "hack" a while ago on my Giant (Yamaha motor). It works on that system, no errors of whatsoever. Only issue is that being connected to the pedals spin, rather than the wheel, the motor will start engaging with some delay...which is a problem for me since I ride on trails. If you have to start pedaling in the mid of a steep hill you are basically dead...hence, got back to the factory setup.

[@NosovaOlesya]

Thanx,useful note

[@songmanl1480]

Im here in the states. Purchased my first ebike. Jasion roamer and it already goes about 25-28 mph have to say thats pretty fast for a bike !

[@daveyJ213]

Won't this throw off the actual mileage count on the odometer? Do you install a second system to track your actual MPH? Interesting though.

[@juiceofsapho]

I used this trick for my bosch gen4 cx powered bike and it worked 3-4 years... until recently it popped a 504 error 😊 I don't know what triggered it but I did ride a decent slope near my house as I regularly do. But over these 3-4 years I certainly did more extreme things so it's a mystery to me why it happened now.

[@planetclownfishbrain7052]

I was using this method for almost a year until today I got a 050 message and am trying to figure out how to fix it.

[@martinliptak4932]

Love the hack’s simplicity! Basically the same output as these 100€ and more chiptunings. Works perfectly on my 3rd generation Bosch in Cube Stereo Hybrid 2018 ☺️

[@jasonbonner5656]

Not the same at all the chip only takes the restriction out everything stays the same it messes with speedo odometer

[@martinliptak4932]

@@jasonbonner5656 Thats right, but who cares about speed and odometer? Anyway, after some time the bike realized that something is whong and stopped working. After putting the sensor back to its place everything went back to normal. However, after few months with unrestricted bike I must say, that it is certainly not for older people who are not good riders. The bike becomes really crazy, basically speeds around 50 are not a problem and it could be potentionaly unsafe for riders and people around. Just keep the bike restricted or buy motorbike if you want to go more than 25.

[@jasonbonner5656]

@@martinliptak4932 a lot of people care about that it also helps u know when u need a service and it’s not even truly de restricted it’s a bodge job

[@jasonbonner5656]

@@martinliptak4932 I’ve also deretricted my bike properly

[@jasonbonner5656]

@@martinliptak4932 it’s fine de restricted

[@112deeps]

Thankz mate gonna try on my kalkhoff. The cycle shop told me i could do this but didn't bother as wasn't doing speed but would be useful!

[@widkin]

Cool hack, seems to use the same principle as the badass box, by manipulating the sensor input. The badass box seems to still cause the dreaded 504 error for some bosch motors after longer riding. Has anyone noticed this issue with the hack described in this video? Oh, and also, as someone else asked: What would happen if the magnet was just removed entirely? How long would the bike allow assist with no sensor input? It is my belief that there are programming in all modern ebike motors to find when the sensor input is unrealistic. For example, the rapid change in rpm of the crank arm is not similar to a wheel. Over time, the motor would likely log this and finally say: bike is derestircted, let's cut out and mess with the user... That is at least what happens with the badass box as well as the other advanced tuning chips like the speedbox et al. A lot of reports of problem after accumulating a few hundred kilometers, so not right away. TLDR: I would love to hear if anyone have a longterm review of this hack in the video for a bosch gen 4 motor, specifically related to the 504 error.

[@brianmasters8348]

Excellent questions 👏 seems nobody here had an answer for you. Did you find answers to your questions elsewhere?

[@widkin]

@@brianmasters8348 ive seen other reports that this hack only works for a short while, just due to the things I described. I've yet to see anyone use this successfuly for a longer time. The only thing that seems to work is a tuning chip and then only increasing speed slightly, to not make it obvious for the bike anti tuning software to detect. Running really high speeds for long times or a high percentage of you riding will eventually end in a failure (bosch), probably because the software determines that the batter is using more energy than what is realistic for the signaled speed. I mean, no one would run only uphill all the time, which is what it would look like (high energy needs at low speeds).

[@brianmasters8348]

@@widkin Thanks for your comment man. Sounds like i'll be playing it safe and accepting my 'analog' bike is just faster lol

[@scheffman]

I was regretting my Charge XC purchase before this hack. Thanks!

[@TheJunkyardgenius]

Love this, such a simple hack.

[@jonathanelepano137]

Worked perfect. I used a very strong round magnet I previously used on a magnetic whiteboard as had plenty of those. 👍

[@romavillamiguel9845]

Can you send me one bro..im looking for one..?..ty

[@hugovuori4778]

Works on a ghost hyb teru with bosch performance cx 2018! Thank you so much man

[@Makulax]

OK as a tinnitus sufferer that damn "beep" in the start really jacked it up. Thank you very much for making it worse. Not watching this anymore.

[@DanceySteveYNWA]

0:03

[@Makulax]

@@DanceySteveYNWA Yes... That one... OMG I fell in a trap :(

[@DanceySteveYNWA]

@@Makulax Gotcha! PS, Sorry to hear about your Tinnitus...

[@robelliott7748]

Thanks .. it works on a hard seven 1.0

[@Dutcharmytent]

Amalgamation tape is the way to go. It melts together and is waterproof, used for solar panel connectors

[@n31lrc]

Are you able to tell the e-bike you have, say, 20” wheels when actually you have 29”? If you change tyres say a 2.2 vs 2.8 you would have a different circumference. I don’t know about the e-bikes but the Scott range accepts both wheel sizes and therefore potentially different circumferences, there must be a way to adjust this? Or may be not and you just ride with inaccurate speedo’s.

[@Luka_H]

No that doesn’t work, only if you change where the sensor and magnet is on the wheel, the sensor and magneet will still be on the same radius measured from the center of the wheel.

[@MrDoffelund]

@@Luka_H thats not how it works. It is definitely set for a certain wheel size, that is how it calculates the speed by knowing the distance per rotation. Moving the magnet and sensor to a different radius doesnt change the rpm and if you trick it to think you have a smaller tire than you have then yes, it will give a slower reading. Radius from the center of the wheel will does not change the speed reading, all it changes is the distance the magnet travels but that is not measured here.

[@ronlaverdiere]

@@Luka_H the magnet counts revolutions. Nothing more. Changing the magnet location on the wheel does not change the rpm reading. One revolution is still one revolution.

[@martinmaddox5315]

How much difference in speeds if you change wheel size to the smallest size? Do you or anyone know if changing the wheel size will work on a radrunner plus? Thank you.

[@VolkaynoDaking]

works very good iam driving my bike at my balcony with this hack because its no allowed on the streets

[@stanmart23]

Works great, like nitro injector to my e-bike

[@RD-xh9ss]

Cool easy hack and easy to place back in its original setting. Great video

[@yeagrowan]

So good bro! Just did this. Used cable ties. Yamaha engine. Thanks from Tauranga!!

[@chrro466]

Watching from the Mount 😁

[@davidwake50]

Works on my bosch cx 625. Easy and quick. Great video.

[@lewiss66]

What year is your bike?

[@franzroast6658]

Why am I watching this, I don't even have an e-bike.

[@icemann6619]

Same here brother 😊

[@merrymanson]

You might...thats why I'm watching how to pet a donkey

[@TheLongboarder77]

Ok. Tried this too and 2 times got the dreaded E014 error To fix it i followed this procedure. To clear the Shimano Steps E014 error, follow these steps: Check Sensor Position: Ensure the speed sensor and magnet are correctly positioned. The magnet should be aligned with the sensor on the wheel spoke Adjust and Test: If repositioning doesn't work, try adjusting the magnet closer to the sensor mounting bolt. Turn on the power and rotate the crank clockwise for up to 200 Wheel rotations Reset System: Power off the bike, remove the battery, and press the power button to drain residual power. Reattach the battery and test again. Once fixed I taped my speed sensor 1" closer to the wheel center and now I have about 29kph of assist instead of 25kph. Just enough and no errors or random gear changes if I stop pedaling

[@socialnutrients3217]

it works however have motors been designed to take operate longterm at such speeds.

[@sodalitia]

It's the twork not speed that puts strain on the motor. What you do you just prolong the time of power delivery by the motor, which is not different than going at low speeds with continuous assistance of the motor. It will put the same strain on the motor as goining under 15 mph continiously. And its the bike, not the motor speed being increased, so has no extra effect on how the gears in the motor wear out. If you are worried about the life of your motor, make sure you are you are using your bike gears properly, just like you use them to ease your knees on the normal bike.

[@sachintanwar21]

Just solved my issue. Thanks mate for making this video. Sensor was not aligned

[@Fulltinyhouse]

So clever. I am going to be getting an e bike

[@kaarelk274]

Buy used older ebike or it wont work

[@dublinvids5146]

@@kaarelk274 Why? Have they changed it so the hack no longer works?

[@donaldperkins9367]

It's all good and right Warren but this is the second video I've seen with this hack for crank mounted motors. From what I've seen the majority of e bikes have a hub (rear) mounted motor configuration. How 'bout some enlightenment. Just found your channel. Good 👍 job.

[@tonyzenuborne6374]

Just a thought, could you program your controller to a smaller wheel size so that it thinks it’s going slower??

[@team3383]

Yes