A quick trial of different cements on BPK plastic.

[@tmcmurdo826]

It’s videos like these that set you apart, Nigel. Excellent.

[@NigelsModellingBench]

Glad you think so!

[@johnbrewer6330]

Interesting stuff Nigel. A really good example that there is no solvent/glue that does everything. You need the right tool for the job.

[@pastorrich7436]

You really have me thinking about doing my own tests with the glues that I have on hand. Very interesting, and thank you! Cheers!!

[@StevenPotts-ij9ue]

Thanks for the info NIgel, a very comprehensive test.

[@andytrewin]

Excellent comparison Nigel ~ thank you.

[@andytrewin]

Hi Nigel, Good to see and chat with you at the Gloucester show. KR AndyT.

[@ronaldbyrne3320]

Great test and interesting results. Love your channel Nige because of these tests. 👍🏻👍🏻❤️

[@NigelsModellingBench]

Glad you like them!

[@TheAndrian463]

Mr Cement SP is my favourite, been very happy with the performance of it. Also, it doesn't flood as easily as thin extra cement. In my experience, leave Mr Cement for a couple of hours or overnight, and the bond will be even stronger. Nice test.

[@tamedragon66]

Not surprised at Mr Cement S results. Tried it when I came back to models and see no reason to try anything else, especially when it can be bought at the local Hobby Lobby. Works well on primed and painted surfaces too.

[@ZAKKANWAKKAR]

Informative and timely. I will soon start the BPK P-8. Thanks

[@NigelsModellingBench]

I have some videos on the go for the E-7, you may find them useful..

[@ZAKKANWAKKAR]

​@@NigelsModellingBenchI'll be doing that one too. 👍

[@stevenanderson236]

Very interesting

[@brenstratters2026]

Very interesting assessment Nigel. I have the BPK 737-100 kit so this will be very useful when I come to buld it. Many thanks and all the best.

[@NigelsModellingBench]

Glad it was helpful!

[@markgordon2260]

Thanks Nigel - timely video. I am currently building the ICM Beaufort - nice plastic. As well as others. The other day I finished a bottle of Tamiya QS, and then changed to a new bottle that had been in the drawer for a year or so. There was a noticeable lack of stickability when compared with the old bottle (the old stuff worked well). I have Mr Cement S and SP in the drawer, as well as some Icky Sticky thin. As well as the old fashioned Revell thick stuff.

[@NigelsModellingBench]

Funny you should say that... I have thought I experienced the same.

[@toboldlygosmodelworks1973]

I had issues with a Dora Wings kit plastic with Tet & Quick setting, used MH SP Black and it stuck.

[@simonworrall7950]

Your Takom comment was interesting. I am building a Takom tank kit and I thought I would use the black MrCement to cement the tracks together. I could clearly see black in all the joints. Next morning most of the joints had failed. I had to go back and use extra thin to finish them off.

[@ZinzanModelling]

Dear Nigel, This is a well thought out test. I thought that using the nippers (about 11 mins in) might compromise the joint and tender the test ineffective. Nevertheless it was a good product test. Regards, Z

[@davep4703]

Hi Nigel, maybe it's the size of the Mr Hobby brushes providing more volumn of material that is giveing better results. Using the same larger sized brushes with Tamiya Extra Thin might show a more equal comparison. Regards, Dave Porter

[@NigelsModellingBench]

I covered that one Dave, I flooded all the joints. Also, the MEK and EMA needed a brush to be used, (I decanted after the test). You can clearly see in the video the contact points are the same in all cases, plus the fact that when you glue two thin faces together it just splits open.

[@steveshanks2537]

Love these practical tests Nige I think people mix EMA with Tamiya Extra Thin 50/50 to stop it evaporating quite so quick?

[@tronmcconnell4465]

Nigel, very interesting video. Personally, I'm always interested in this kind of analytical comparison, so any future experiments you feel you'd like to perform, I would love to see.

[@darronhedges5873]

I bought some of the Plastic magic 10!second cement (yellow label).I expected a Mr Cement S/Tamiya Extra thin clone but was suprised as to how adhesive and slow to evaporate it was.I just wiped some on back of thumb with brush then wiped a bit of sprue on it,the sprue was tacky and you could see the fingerprints and smears of styrene where I’d handled it.I have all the cements in line up(not including brown bottle) and it’s by far the most adhesive I’ve found so far.

[@NigelsModellingBench]

Hi Darron, what plastic was it?

[@darronhedges5873]

@@NigelsModellingBench zoukei mura,WnWs and RFM(Sdkfz.243/2 puma-Roland CII-Hs 129 B3 on bench/bed) it’s nothing like a 10 sec or Extra thin…instead of a “hot” cement purely it seems to have an adhesive ingredient.I can use it to texture stuff and it takes a while to dry.Big brush too. Xmas soon-get yourself one of the GH-Craft Nipper range-like Tonka version of nippers.With all the content you could do with a swanky pair of all purpose military defence grade Sprue slicers on hand.Eye catching too!!!!

[@darronhedges5873]

@@NigelsModellingBench GH-CN 120 for brass.

[@r.d.1991]

That was interesting to see! Thanks. I do wonder what the chemistry is behind all this but that's just me. 😁

[@richardcarpenter1076]

Hi Nigel. I had this problem on an old Monogram kit a while back. TET Quick Setting worked fine but the normal one was truly useless.

[@NigelsModellingBench]

As someone mentioned earlier... I do wonder if TET is getting "cooler"?

[@stephenwoodmansey3333]

I had problems with the 1/72 Revell submarine and found that contacta worked well.

[@tonygary7611]

👍

[@5EyesIsntWatching]

My go to glue for difficult parts and plastics is Tamiya orange cap. It would however be nice if the brush was about half the width. Mind you I don't have experience using it on BPK or similar short run kit plastics.

[@goforitpainting]

Cool 👍

[@johnhughes2653]

I've been using the EMA Plastic Weld since I returned to model building 9-1/2 years ago and found it excellent for most purposes. The worst thing about it is how easy it is to knock the bottle over! Luckily, never hit any kit parts yet. Can't say I've suffered the evaporation in the bottle problem either. The biggest drawback is that it does evaporate fast, so for things like fuselage halves, etc, I usually dry fit and add cement in stages. Sometimes, though, I fall back on the old standby - Revell Contacta. BTW, did you wash those sprues first? Wondering if the presence of any releasing agent might have an effect.

[@NigelsModellingBench]

In this example you would be correct, however, all the joints that have split have been sanded?

[@johnhughes2653]

@@NigelsModellingBench Onr thing to note with the EMA is that you need to get enough on the plastic to dissolve the surface. There have been times where I've repeatedly dosed the joint before it got a proper result. If you don't, expect it to come apart again.

[@Claudio_Togni]

Last week i 've seen a japanese video ( with youtube automatic translator, so i am not sure if i understood all what was said), where the subject was how good mr cement S could be for glueing ABS . Your video cofirm that (as most gunze products are) is a good performer.

[@DuncanBeaird]

If BPK are saying '677', do you think they're talking about 'SikaMelt 677'? I've never used it, but it looks like it may be some sort of cyanoacrylate, since it is moisture-cured.

[@NigelsModellingBench]

Not sure buddy?

[@ChoppersModelworks]

I just wish the model companies would state on their box what type of plastic is used. Some companies seem to be switching between styrene for some and ABS for some of the Snap-Tite kits.

[@NigelsModellingBench]

Some have both in one box!!

[@ChoppersModelworks]

@@NigelsModellingBench Maybe someday there will some kind of chemical test pen to see what type of solvents are required for each tree of plastic. Crazy it has come to this for sure.

[@NigelsModellingBench]

You may have seen in my Lambo build that I used scrap sprue to test the "weldability" of the TET

[@markgordon2260]

Late comment - Mr Hobby are also hard to get in Oz.

[@kevinhutchison3922]

Not 100% but im sure 767 is a pvc adhesive for use on pipes. 667 is a two step with an activator.